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The Guardian
21-07-2025
- The Guardian
Thrill of the night train: from Vienna to Rome on the next-gen moonlight express
Toasted ham baguettes in hand, we cheered as the new-generation Nightjet drew into Vienna Hauptbahnhof. It was a little before 7pm, and as the carriages hummed past I felt a rush of joy, like celebrity trainspotter Francis Bourgeois, but without the GoPro on my forehead. For more than three years I've been documenting the renaissance of sleeper trains, and I'd wondered if I might one day tire of them. But the thrill seems only to intensify each time I embark on another nocturnal adventure, this time with my two daughters – aged eight and five – who were already arguing over the top berth. The first four carriages were designated for travellers to the Italian port city of La Spezia, the other seven carrying on to Roma Tiburtina, where we would alight at 10am. Once in Rome we had 24 hours to eat classic carbonara, dark chocolate gelato, and bike around the Villa Borghese before taking a train to Florence. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) has played the lead role in resuscitating Europe's night trains. Towards the end of 2016, ÖBB launched its Nightjet network on 14 routes, using old rolling stock it bought from Deutsche Bahn. Then, to the delight of train nerds like me, it launched a brand-new fleet at the end of 2023, and now operates 20 routes across Europe. We were now on board this high-spec service, which smelled of freshly unpacked furniture, the carpets soft underfoot, the lighting adjustable to disco hues of neon blue and punk pink. We were booked into a couchette carriage, which mostly comprisesd mini cabins designed for solo travellers preferring privacy. Placing shoes and small bags in lockers, passengers can open a metal door with a keycard and crawl into their single berth, drawing the door closed around them, and not have to look at another human until morning. Last year I had trialled the mini cabins from Vienna to Hamburg alongside a tall friend who had likened the experience to sleeping inside a bread bin, though I hadn't found it as claustrophobic as I'd feared, just a bit hard, chilly, and with a pillow as flat as a postage stamp. So I was curious to see how the carriage's four-person private compartments, for families and groups, would differ. Normally happy to share with strangers, I'd booked a whole compartment for the three of us: more to protect other hapless travellers from my children, who were now swinging off the berths like members of Cirque du Soleil, their sweaty socks strewn under the seats. With raised sides, the upper berths were safe for the girls to sleep in without rolling out, and I set about tucking in their sheets while they settled down to finish their baguettes. There is no dining car on the Nightjet, so we'd bought food from the station, which was now moving backwards as the train sailed out of the Austrian capital in silence, smoothly curving south-west. Two days earlier we'd arrived in Vienna by train from London, via Paris, and had checked into the Superbude Wien Prater, a curious hotel that appeared part art-installation, part hostel, with gen Zs slouched around worn leather sofas on MacBooks. With four-bed family cabins overlooking the Prater amusement park, it was a great location from which to explore the city, then finish the evening with a terrifying rollercoaster and a spicy Bitzinger wurst. A friend had described Vienna to me as a grand and beautiful 'retirement village', but, on the contrary, its green spaces, playgrounds and museums made it an easy stop for 48 hours with kids. Hopping off the Nightjet from Paris, we'd gone straight to my favourite restaurant, Edelgreisslerei Opocensky – an unassuming nook serving homely dishes such as stuffed gnocchi, and goulash with dumplings – before whiling away an afternoon at the Children's Museum at Schönbrunn Palace. Dressing up like young Habsburgs, the girls had swanned around in wigs and musty gowns, laying tables for banquets and begging not to leave – a far cry from our usual museum experiences. Before boarding this train we'd had one last run around the interactive Technical Museum, where the human-sized hamster wheels, peg games and slides had so worn out the children that my five-year-old was asleep as the train plunged into the Semmering mountain pass. It was still light as we swept around the Alps, my eight-year-old kneeling at the window and asking where local people shopped, so few and far between were signs of human life. Horses grazed in paddocks, cows nuzzled, and the occasional hamlet emerged from round a bend as though the chalets were shaken like dice and tossed into the slopes. In the blue-grey twilight we watched streams gleam like strips of metal, and spotted a single stag poised at the edge of a wood, before the train made a long stop at the Styrian city of Leoben, at which point we turned in. Like the mini cabins, the compartment was still too cold, the pillow still too flat, but the berths were wider and the huge window a blessing compared with the single berths' portholes – this one allowed for wistful gazing. Shoving a rolled-up jumper under my head, I fell asleep, waking at 7am to rumpled clouds and a golden flare on the horizon. Most night trains terminate soon after passengers have woken up, but this one was perfect, allowing us to enjoy a leisurely breakfast of hot chocolate and jam rolls while watching the Tuscan dawn breaking into song, and Umbrian lakes and cornfields running parallel before we finally drew into Rome – on time. When travelling alone I relish arriving with the entire day at my disposal, but with children it's hard work waiting until 3pm to check in to accommodation, so I default to staying at a Hoxton hotel if one is available. Its Flexy Time policy allows guests to choose what time they check in and out for free, and by 11am we had checked in, showered and set off to toss coins in the Trevi fountain, finding thick whorls of eggy carbonara at nearby trattoria Maccheroni, and gelato at Don Nino. To avoid the crowds and heat, we waited until 6pm to hire an electric pedal car from Bici Pincio at the Villa Borghese and drove around the landscaped, leafy grounds, relishing the quietness of the evening ride. Excited about the next adventure in Florence, the girls had only one complaint: that they couldn't ride there on the night train. Monisha Rajesh is the author of Moonlight Express: Around the World by Night Train (Bloomsbury, £22), published on 28 August and available on pre-order at Omio provided travel in a four-person private compartment in a couchette carriage from Vienna to Rome (from £357). Accommodation was provided by Superbude Wien Prater in Vienna (doubles from €89 room-only); and The Hoxton in Rome (doubles from €189 room-only)
The Star
27-05-2025
- The Star
Five train routes that highlight the beauty of Europe
Europe's railways have rarely inspired as much excitement as they have in recent years. Train companies, eager to capitalise on this newfound enthusiasm, have been racing to add new destinations, revive old ones or simply provide more seats on popular routes. Others have gone for luxury charters aimed at re-creating the opulence of train travel in the past. With travellers now spoiled, the selection below focuses on some constants: tried-and-tested routes that are easily accessible and offer the kind of beautiful scenery that has been a source of delight to travellers for decades, or even a century. Most of them run daily and come at no extravagant cost, yet still have special details that will make your journey comfortable, scenic and memorable. AUSTRIA Eurocity Transalpin The Transalpin from Zurich, Switzerland to Graz, Austria, is one of only a handful of trains with the Swiss Federal Railways' first-class panorama car. Its high, curved windows rise above the seats to reveal sweeping views of the Alps. In good weather, you can spend most of the nine-and-a-half-hour journey (it runs only during the day) gazing at a rolling landscape of mountains, meadows, clear lakes and peaceful villages. Crossing nearly all of Austria, the train stops at popular mountain resorts, which have increased their variety of year-round activities, like hiking, mountain biking, water sports and farm stays, to complement traditional winter sports. The dining car serves schnitzel, knodel (dumplings) and other local dishes with Austrian wines, and will deliver your meals to your seat in first class. There are breakfast options served with fluffy Kaiser rolls for a price, and a seasonal menu with vegan and vegetarian options. Graz, Austria's second largest city, has a pleasant historic quarter on the banks of the River Mur and is a good starting point for a Central European adventure, thanks to good onward connections to Vienna, Prague (Czech Republic), Budapest (Hungary) and beyond. Tickets from the Austrian Federal Railways start at €40 (RM193) in second class and €60 (RM290) in first. Look for train numbers EC163 or 164. You can also pay for buy a €3 (RM14.50) reservation, making sure to pick both the first-class and the panorama car options, to secure a seat with a view. Switzerland's Treno Gottardo is a direct service from Basel/Zurich to Locarno. — Schweizerische Sudostbahn website SWITZERLAND Treno Gottardo The Gotthard Railway, one of Switzerland's main Alpine gateways to Italy, combines dramatic views with spectacular engineering feats. To make the most of the scenery, board the Treno Gottardo, a direct service from Basel or Zurich to Locarno. The train travels through the original Gotthard Tunnel from 1882 at above 900m. It spends about 10 minutes in the tunnel, allowing travellers plenty of time to take in the views on either side. You may be tempted to stop and explore the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, at the southern end of the route, before heading on to Milan or Venice in Italy on direct trains. South of Lake Lucerne, the train climbs a series of bridges and spiral tunnels to reach snowy peaks before descending to Locarno on the palm-tree-lined shores of Lake Maggiore. The lake, with blue waters bordered by steep slopes, straddles Switzerland and Italy, and its tiny islands are home to elegant palazzos and lush gardens. Tickets to Locarno start at 32 Swiss francs (RM165) for rides departing from Basel or 24 Swizz francs (RM139) from Zurich. They can be booked on the Sudostbahn website. ITALY Intercity Notte to Sicily The Italian trips from Milan or Rome to Sicily are among the longest direct train routes you can embark on in Europe. Though perhaps slightly too great a distance to travel by day, it can be a comfortable length for night trains. Two trains that once ran this route, the Freccia del Sud, or Southern Arrow, and the Treno del Sole, or Sunshine Train, played a role in the large-scale migration of Italians from the rural south to the industrial north after World War II. Today's travellers can order dinner or go to bed shortly after boarding and wake up to southern sunshine and coastal views. The highlight comes around breakfast time, when the train cars are loaded onto Europe's last passenger train ferry (complete with tracks) to sail across the Strait of Messina to Sicily. The final leg of the journey is a scenic coastal ride to Palermo or Syracuse. Tickets from Trenitalia to either Milan or Rome start at just under €50 (RM242) for a couchette in a basic four-person compartment. Three-sleeper and single cabins with a private bathroom are more expensive. All fares include breakfast. SCOTLAND West Highland Line Shortly after leaving Glasgow, this line turns north, travelling between glistening lochs, and heads into untamed highland wilderness. After three hours, trains reach the Corrour station, set in a vast moorland accessible only by foot or rail. Corrour has a cafe and many walking routes. The station is famous for a scene in the 1996 film Trainspotting, in which Ewan McGregor's character sits surrounded by its mountains and rants about how unbearable it is to be Scottish. Farther on, Fort William is the ideal stop for a hike up Ben Nevis, Scotland's highest mountain. And before reaching Mallaig, trains cross the Victorian-era Glenfinnan Viaduct, popular with filmmakers and seen, most recently, in Netflix's The Crown. From the port of Mallaig, you can catch a ferry to the Isle of Skye to explore its castles and dramatic shores. The local carrier ScotRail runs several trains daily. One-way tickets start at around £20 (RM115). ScotRail offers travel passes for a set price if you plan to stop along the journey. FRANCE Train de la Cote Bleue Named after the blue waters of the Mediterranean, this train trip from Marseille to Miramas takes under two hours. The route owes its popularity to its first section – to the fishing town of Martigues – which skirts white cliffs directly along the sea. It recently underwent critical work to ensure its safety and keep it from closing. The best approach for this day trip, leaving from the heart of Marseille, is hopping on and off the train along the coast to enjoy local attractions. From L'Estaque station, you can embark on a walking tour of sites that inspired painters like Paul Cézanne and Georges Braque. A seaside trail from Niolon to Cap Mejean takes you through a succession of calanques, rugged limestone coves resembling miniature fjords. Calanques on the Cote Bleue are not as unspoiled as in the national park south of Marseille. But a tiny port and an imposing railway viaduct towering over the blue waters, like in Mejean, add their own character. The port of Sausset-les-Pins is a short walk from the train station and has several spots for dining on the water. And in Martigues, a bus can take you to the centre of town, where canals are lined by pastel-coloured houses. Tickets from the French national railway company SNCF start at €13.20 (RM64). With a day pass for the Bouches-du-Rhone departement, which includes Marseille, you can hop on and off as many times as you like for €20 (RM97). – Palko Karasz/©2025 The New York Times Company This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
New York Times
26-03-2025
- New York Times
5 Train Routes That Highlight the Beauty of Europe
Europe's railways have rarely inspired as much excitement as they have in recent years. Train companies, eager to capitalize on this newfound enthusiasm, have been racing to add new destinations, revive old ones or simply provide more seats on popular routes. Others have gone for luxury charters aimed at recreating the opulence of train travel in the past. With travelers now spoiled, the selection below focuses on some constants: tried and tested routes that are easily accessible and offer the kind of beautiful scenery that has been a source of delight to travelers for decades, or even a century. Most of them run daily and come at no extravagant cost, yet still have special details that will make your journey comfortable, scenic and memorable. Eurocity Transalpin The Transalpin from Zurich to Graz, Austria, is one of only a handful of trains with the Swiss Federal Railways' first-class panorama car. Its high, curved windows rise above the seats to reveal sweeping views of the Alps. In good weather, you can spend most of the nine-and-a-half-hour journey (it runs only during the day) gazing at a rolling landscape of mountains, meadows, clear lakes and peaceful villages. Crossing nearly all of Austria, the train stops at popular mountain resorts, which have increased their variety of year-round activities, like hiking, mountain biking, water sports and farm stays, to complement traditional winter sports. The dining car serves schnitzel, knödel and other local dishes with Austrian wines, and will deliver your meals to your seat in first class. There are breakfast options served with fluffy Kaiser rolls starting at 6.60 euros (about $7.15), mains at €11.40 and a seasonal menu with vegan and vegetarian options. Graz, Austria's second largest city, has a pleasant historic quarter on the banks of the River Mur and is a good starting point for a Central European adventure, thanks to good onward connections to Vienna, Prague, Budapest and beyond. Tickets from the Austrian Federal Railways start at €40 in second class and €60 in first. Look for train numbers EC163 or 164. You can buy a €3 reservation, making sure to pick both the first-class and the panorama car options, to secure a seat with a view. Treno Gottardo The Gotthard Railway, one of Switzerland's main Alpine gateways to Italy, combines dramatic views with spectacular engineering feats. To make the most of the scenery, board the Treno Gottardo, a direct service from Basel or Zurich to Locarno. The train travels through the original Gotthard Tunnel from 1882 at above 3,000 feet. It spends about 10 minutes in the tunnel, allowing travelers plenty of time to take in the views on either side. You may be tempted to stop and explore the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, at the southern end of the route, before heading on to Milan or Venice on direct trains. South of Lake Lucerne, the train climbs a series of bridges and spiral tunnels to reach snowy peaks before descending to Locarno on the palm-tree-lined shores of Lake Maggiore. The lake, with blue waters bordered by steep slopes, straddles Switzerland and Italy, and its tiny islands are home to elegant palazzos and lush gardens. Tickets to Locarno start at 32 Swiss francs ($37) for rides departing from Basel or 24 francs from Zurich. They can be booked on the Südostbahn website. Intercity Notte to Sicily The trips from Milan or Rome to Sicily are among the longest direct train routes you can embark on in Europe. Though perhaps slightly too great a distance to travel by day, it can be a comfortable length for night trains. Two trains that once ran this route, the Freccia del Sud, or Southern Arrow, and the Treno del Sole, or Sunshine Train, played a role in the large-scale migration of Italians from the rural south to the industrial north after World War II. Today's travelers can order dinner or go to bed shortly after boarding and wake up to southern sunshine and coastal views. The highlight comes around breakfast time, when the train cars are loaded onto Europe's last passenger train ferry (complete with tracks) to sail across the Strait of Messina to Sicily. The final leg of the journey is a scenic coastal ride to Palermo or Syracuse. Tickets from Trenitalia to either Milan or Rome start at just under €50 for a couchette in a basic four-person compartment. Three-sleeper and single cabins with a private bathroom are more expensive. All fares include breakfast. West Highland Line Shortly after leaving Glasgow, this line turns north, traveling between glistening lochs, and heads into untamed highland wilderness. After three hours, trains reach the Corrour station, set in a vast moorland accessible only by foot or rail. Corrour has a cafe and many walking routes. The station is famous for a scene in the 1996 film 'Trainspotting,' in which Ewan McGregor's character sits surrounded by its mountains and rants about how unbearable it is to be Scottish. Further on, Fort William is the ideal stop for a hike up Ben Nevis, Scotland's highest mountain, or a ferry to the Isle of Skye to explore its castles and dramatic shores. And before reaching Mallaig, trains cross the Victorian-era Glenfinnan Viaduct, popular with filmmakers and seen, most recently, in Netflix's 'The Crown.' The local carrier ScotRail runs several trains daily. One-way tickets start at around 20 pounds ($26). ScotRail offers travel passes for a set price if you plan to stop along the journey. Train de la Côte Bleue Named after the blue waters of the Mediterranean, this train trip from Marseille to Miramas takes under two hours. The route owes its popularity to its first section — to the fishing town of Martigues — which skirts white cliffs directly along the sea. It recently underwent critical work to ensure its safety and keep it from closing. The best approach for this day trip, leaving from the heart of Marseille, is hopping on and off the train along the coast to enjoy local attractions. From L'Estaque station, you can embark on a walking tour of sites that inspired painters like Paul Cézanne and Georges Braque. A seaside trail from Niolon to Cap Méjean takes you through a succession of calanques, rugged limestone coves resembling miniature fjords. Calanques on the Côte Bleue are not as unspoiled as in the national park south of Marseille. But a tiny port and an imposing railway viaduct towering over the blue waters, like in Méjean, add their own character. The port of Sausset-les-Pins is a short walk from the train station and has several spots for dining on the water. And in Martigues, a bus can take you to the center of town, where canals are lined by pastel-colored houses. Tickets from the French national railway company SNCF start at €13.20. With a day pass for the Bouches-du-Rhône département, which includes Marseille, you can hop on and off as many times as you like for €20.
