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Travel + Leisure
07-07-2025
- Travel + Leisure
This Luxury Retreat in the Dolomites Just Unveiled a Forest-inspired Restaurant Inside a Cave—and You Can't Use Utensils or Your Phone
The Dolomites in northern Italy are famous for dramatic limestone peaks, pristine forests, and idyllic alpine villages. Just outside of Brixen, the oldest town in South Tyrol, sits Forestis, a minimalist luxury retreat known for its sweeping mountain views and seamless harmony with the surrounding landscape. Now, the hotel is deepening that connection with its newest experience: Yera, a fine-dining restaurant built directly into the mountainside. But Yera is more than just a place to eat—it's a full-sensory journey into South Tyrolean tradition. Created by executive chef Roland Lamprecht in collaboration with Forestis owners Teresa and Stefan Hinteregger, the subterranean dining space is a tribute to forest cuisine and a nod to the region's early inhabitants, the Celtic peoples, who once lived in harmony with the land. "Thousands of years ago, various Indigenous peoples settled in Europe, including here in the Dolomites," Lamprecht told Travel + Leisure . "We want to pass on the knowledge and added value of these cultures to people today." The name Yera itself is rooted in the Rhaetian Celtic word for harvest, a time of both abundance and reflection. "At that time, yera was the most important period of the year," Lamprecht explained. "After months of hard work, the riches of nature could now be harvested. It is referred to as a recurring new beginning. The fertile soil can now rest and be replanted in the spring after the snow melts." "Our guests won't have to respond to calls or messages, and don't have to take pictures of the food. For a few hours, everyone can just simply enjoy what's in front of and around them, feel fully connected to their company, engaged in conversation, immersed in the moment, and get back to the basics of what creates enjoyment." — Chef Roland Lamprecht According to the team, Yera isn't just hidden—it's nearly invisible. Tucked within a dense forest and set inside a cave, the restaurant is almost imperceptible from the outside. Guests begin their dining experience with a quiet walk through the woods to a discrete entrance built into the rockface. Inside, the design echoes the surroundings. "Beyond a heavy door is a cavernous space designed by architect Armin Sader of Asaggio. The interiors are elemental: walls and floors are formed from the rust-colored Earth from the nearby Peitlerkofel mountain, a timber ceiling shaped like a ship's hull, and a glowing fire pit in the center surrounded by hard-carved tree trunks," Günther Kofler, the general manager of Forestis, told T+L. Executive Chef Roland Lamprecht in the Yera kitchen. Charlotte Lapalus/Forestis At the heart of the restaurant is a fire pit serving as a focal point. Guests are seated on hand-carved tree trunks arranged in a circle, paying homage to the ancient practice of gathering around the fire. But the flames aren't just for show: here, Lamprecht and his team prepare each dish live in front of diners. "The idea is to gather people around the fire, similar to dining around a big kitchen table, and eating meals together, just as has long been the tradition within our region," Lamprecht said. "The Celts were deeply inspired by nature and based much of their life on it, which is why our menus across all of our dining concepts at Forestis, and more specifically Yera, are adapted for light and dark seasons to reflect seasonal availability." In keeping with the restaurant's ethos, the entire experience is phone-free. Guests are encouraged to slow down, be present, savor each bite, and not let the camera eat first. "The goal is to provide guests with a relaxing dining experience that combines zero distractions with extraordinary food and drinks from the Earth and our surrounding landscape," Lamprecht said. "For a few hours, everyone can just simply enjoy what's in front of and around them, feel fully connected to their company, engaged in conversation, immersed in the moment, and get back to the basics of what creates enjoyment." Tables set inside of Yera at Forestis. Charlotte Lapalus/Forestis Yera also expands on Lamprecht's "forest cuisine" philosophy: a culinary approach rooted in using ingredients from the immediate surroundings, minimizing waste, and honoring traditional preserving methods. The menu—served in a multi-course format that evolves with the seasons with housemade beverages to pair with each course—spotlights wild herbs and forest plants foraged from the forest, like birch water, spruce shoots, wild berries, tree beard and mushrooms. Anything not gathered from the immediate surroundings (think fish and meat) are sourced from producers who share Lamprecht's culinary values. Since sustainability is a key pillar, curbing waste means using off-cuts alongside classic cuts and leaning on traditional preservation techniques (like fermentation, smoking, and drying) to extend the life of each ingredient. Even the tableware (or the lack thereof) is a return to the past. Guests won't find standard silverware. Instead, dishes are enjoyed using wooden skewers, twigs, or even hands. "We want our guests to feel like they've been transported back in time, free from any constraints," Lamprecht said. "Personally, I find it very exciting to eat with my fingers or wooden sticks. It reminds me of my childhood, when we were allowed to eat with our fingers once or twice a year." Ultimately, Yera is about reconnection—to nature and to others. "Fire is something fascinating—it has a very relaxing effect on the people gathered around it," Lamprecht said. "And that's exactly what guests should experience at Yera. A relaxed evening without constraints and disturbances. They should be able to concentrate fully on the food, drinks, and their company." Yera welcomes guests for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday, offering five seatings each evening. The tasting experience is priced at 650 Euros (about $765) per person. While Forestis and its amenities remain exclusive to its overnight guests, Yera is open to the public, giving non-guests the chance to experience its alpine charm. You can learn more about the restaurant and make reservations on Yera's website at
Forbes
04-07-2025
- Forbes
Why You Need To Know About This Wine Lover's Retreat Up In The Italian Mountains
Brixen sits in the heart of the Isarco Valley, one of South Tyrol's most distinctive wine regions. Thomas Roetting, Food and wine lovers are always searching for destinations that combine authenticity with refinement. Some chase fads, but most seek places where culinary traditions and memorable landscapes converge naturally. The Alpine town of Brixen (Bressanone) offers exactly that. Tucked between the Dolomites and the vineyards, pastures, and apple orchards of the Isarco Valley, it is ideal for travellers drawn to scenic beauty and a strong farm-to-table ethos. While winter draws skiers to the nearby slopes, it's the summer months when Brixen's culinary scene comes into its own. The town is also at its most inviting, as hikers and cyclists gather before taking to the trails in search of mountain terrain and valley backdrops. Compact but full of character, Brixen's narrow cobbled streets and vaulted arcades house restaurants, bars, and cafés - all proudly dressed in South Tyrolean tradition. The valley landscapes close to Brixen Georg Bühler Brixen, the oldest city in South Tyrol, is part of a region defined by both Italian and German heritage. Administratively Italian, it retains a strong German influence from the days when it belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It was once of strategic geographic importance, and the town's medieval arcades, Baroque cathedral, and the White Tower reveal a past influenced by ecclesiastical power and cross-cultural exchange. Today it is a quiet town, often in the shadow of Bozen (Bolzano). It is however a great backdrop for thoughtful food and wine tourism. In 2024, Brixen approached one million overnight stays, an indication of its growing international profile. While most guests still arrive from Italy, Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, there is a rising presence of visitors from further afield - the UK, Poland, the Netherlands, and the USA - discovering a town where history, architecture, gastronomy, and viticulture meet with unusual coherence. "We're doing well. Of course we get the ski season visitors, but people are coming here in the summer for our great food and scenery' says Erica Kircheis, of the local tourism board. The minimalist dining hall at Fink is a great place to enjoy some of Alto Adige's best wines alongside local food. Fink Restaurant & Suites One of the clearest and most memorable introductions to local wine and cuisine can be found at Fink. Located in a design focussed guesthouse, this is one of Brixen's most confident kitchens. The menu positions itself as monastic simplicity, a reference to the monasteries in the hills above the town. It features ideas such as spelt tagliolini with herb pesto, lake trout, and veal saddle. The wine selection highlights a broad curation of some of the region's best wines, including from the Lagrein grape with its dusky dark fruit and full bodied structure. It is the hyper local white wines of the Eisacktal (Isarco) Valley that really stand out. Locals describe their cuisine in three words: fresh, regional and sophisticated. Antonia Fink, who has developed nine upscale suites in her hotel, points out that if she had to choose just one typical dish to prepare for a guest, 'it would be the schultzer - half moon shaped pasta parcels similar to ravioli. They'd be homemade of course, freshly prepared, and preferably filled with nettles' she says. Seasonal, traditional eating is part of the town's foodie charm. Whether it's strawberries in the spring, chanterelle mushrooms in the summer, or chestnuts in autumn, there is a lot to love. Residents are proud to describe how a generation of young, talented chefs has emerged, and they frequently dive into their grandmother's recipe books to reinvent the old dishes. Look out for nettle dumplings with a glass of crisp, white Sylvaner. Menus across Brixen reflect the region's Alpine roots and Italian flair in equal measure. You'll often find schlutzkrapfen, filled with spinach and ricotta, finished with butter and chives. Heartier options include knödel, bread dumplings flavoured with speck or cheese, served in broth or with sage butter. Schüttelbrot, a hard, thin rye bread seasoned with fennel, caraway, and sometimes coriander is served frequently, as are potato fritters with sauerkraut; and for those with a sweet tooth, few things feel more fitting after a day exploring the town than a slice of warm apfelstrudel, laced with cinnamon and served with whipped cream. Traubenwirt in the town centre is one of the best places for hearty, traditional portions. Dishes such as beef stew with speck dumplings or Wienerschnitzel in butter breaded veal cutlet, with roasted potatoes and cranberry jam, are big favorites. Again the wine list is extensive, and lands a nice focus on selections from the local co-operative. The space is informal, but classy, with its frescoes, ancient columns and arched ceilings offset by white table cloths. Lunch times get very busy, especially on a Sunday, when the whole place clamours with family gatherings. Brixen town centre surrounded by hills. Thomas Roetting Housed in Brixen's former slaughterhouse, Alter Schlachthof has been reimagined as a lively, contemporary space where good food accompanies a relaxed vibe. Its location in the heart of the old town makes it a natural meeting point, whether for coffee, a glass of wine, or something more substantial. The kitchen favors local ingredients and seasonal produce, so you can expect all the South Tyrol classics, alongside lighter, Mediterranean influences. In summer, the riverside garden offers one of the town's most atmospheric spots to eat or linger over an aperitivo. Regular live music and cultural events give the space an informal energy that has made it a popular with both Brixner and visitors. Nearby, Lasserhaus is a cool and convenient place to base yourself for a few nights. It offers boutique accommodation with a quieter, more residential feel. Set within a carefully restored building that reflects Brixen's architectural traditions, Lasserhaus is known for its connection to art and cultural heritage. The interiors feature curated pieces by local artists, while the building itself has ties to the town's long artistic legacy. The contemporary design of the Bauhaus Bauhaus Alternatively, the Bauhaus should be considered. Cool, contemporary, and architecturally significant, it is Brixen's most important modern landmarks. The building reflects the clean lines and functional elegance of Bauhaus design, offering a sharp contrast to the historic fabric of the old town. For visitors interested in architecture or simply looking for a stay that feels distinct from the region's Alpine traditions, it offers something entirely different. Of course, it's still just shorter than the church. A short walk away, as everything here always is, Vinothek Vitis Enoteca is a great reference for a glass of wine, hidden in a cobbled passageway. The menu is refined, but the list has endless curiosities on it, such as amphora-fermented Kerner from a young local grower. There's also a good selection of older vintages that showcase how well the Isarco Valley's white wines can evolve over time. The tone is intimate, making it a natural choice for couples searching quiet undisturbed evenings over a nice bottle. From the centre of Brixen, it's easy to explore on foot or by bike, following the Isarco River north towards the Abbey of Novacella. The route follows gentle, well-marked paths that lead out of town, winding past vineyards, orchards, and farmland, with the mountains ever present on the horizon. Cheeses maturing in Degust's repurposed WW2 bunker. Degust Along the way, it's worth pausing at Degust, founded in 1994 by renowned South Tyrolean chef Hansi Baumgartner from nearby Varna. His cheeses are matured in a repurposed Second World War bunker, where Baumgartner and his team age Alpine cow's milk and goat cheeses with remarkable precision. Tastings take place at Degust's shop, where cheeses are often paired with local wines from the Valle Isarco, and the other five sub zones of the Alto-Adige DOC. The Novacella Monastery Winery. Debora Catania Continuing on, the Abbey of Novacella is one of South Tyrol's most significant cultural and viticultural landmarks. Founded in the 12th century and still home to a religious community, the abbey also functions as a school, boarding house, and winery. Its library, with over 100,000 volumes, reflects the intellectual legacy of the region, while the vineyards that surround the property are far from a gimmick, and produce distinctive wines, particularly the 'Praepositus' line. Tours of the abbey conclude with a tasting, where the estate's Kerner often stands out - bright, mineral, and unmistakably shaped by the altitude and soils of this part of the valley. Another of South Tyrol's most well-known walking routes begins here too. The Chestnut Trail, or Keschtnweg in the local dialect, traces the slopes of the valley for over 90 kilometres, winding through, chestnut groves obviously, but also vineyards, and small villages. The route extends from Varna, near the abbey, beyond Castel Roncolo near Bolzano, eventually reaching the Adige Valley near Terlano and Vilpiano. For anyone keen to raise their step count, this is a quiet but evocative way to explore the agricultural and cultural landscape that has shaped this part of South Tyrol for centuries. Also a short distance outside town, Viertel Bier adds a different voice to Brixen's culinary landscape. Based in the historic Putzer Inn, which dates back to 1771, the brewery produces just over 70,000 litres of beer annually. Founded in 2021 by four entrepreneurs from Eisacktal, it carries forward the legacy of the Köstlan brewery, focusing on local and partly organic ingredients. Their seven core beers are supplemented by seasonal offerings, with tasting sessions often highlighting the unique malt character of the region. 'South Tyrol is probably the only region in Europe where beer and wine consumption are equal. Both beer and wine are part of our heritage' says co-founder Willi Obwexer. The fact that Viertel shares ownership with Alter Schlachthof further integrates beer into Brixen's broader food narrative. Haller Suites Brixen Tim Schardt One more recommendation? Haller Suites & Restaurant offers a dining experience with panoramic views over the episcopal town. The former Haller inn has been reimagined by Teresa Pichler, who inherited her parents' guesthouse and transformed it into a contemporary space that bridges tradition and modern hospitality. As a trained sommelière, Pichler curates a wine list rooted in the vineyards of the Isarco Valley, with a particular emphasis on small producers and structured, mineral whites that reflect the altitude and stony soils. The kitchen, meanwhile, draws directly from the region's ingredients - mountain herbs, freshwater fish, and alpine dairy. For a small town, Brixen offers an unexpected wealth of options for those who care about food, wine, and the outdoors. The restaurants are thoughtful, the local wines great value, and the easy access to restorative walks through the surrounding hills makes the town all the more appealing. With its balance of good taste and authenticity, Brixen is an ideal choice for a relaxed, short break in northern Italy.
