a day ago
Carnitas Ramirez
Gaining a following slinging suadero tacos at Greenpoint's Taqueria Ramirez, Tania Apolinar and Giovanni Cervantes' second act in the East Village is all about the pig, the whole pig and nothing but the pig. We are talking lengua, ear, brain and snout aka the nose-to-tail dining you've been looking for. Unsure of where to start? Worry not, the glass partition spells out what cut is which, written in English and Spanish, so you can work your way through Wilbur at your leisure.
The vibe: It is not uncommon to find a crowd of people outside the place, happily hunched over frisbee-like plates, mouths glossy with dribbles of pork fat. Scope out the line—there usually is one, often out the door. Once you cross the threshold of the entryway, you'll be welcomed by a taqueria that looks a bit lived in with concrete elements, a mix of paint drums for sitting and walls painted avocado green. Beyond the ordering counter lies the small kitchen, where you can watch employees hatchet away at bits of shoulder, tongue and ears while others stir vats, bubbling with pork lard and ostensibly, pork. If the weather isn't agreeable to standing outside or near the garage window that opens to the street, bop around the corner for a small sitdown with metal tables, stools and napkin holders festooned with doodles of pigs.
The food: All pork everything is the name of the game at Carnitas Ramirez. Alongside the glass partition that spells out the cuts, there is a mirror on the wall with the outline of the pig and its respective parts to help you choose. But any order should include the Surtida. Billed as a little bit of everything, and truly it is everything, this taco is a mishmash of pig parts—skin, meat and fat. The result is a crispy skin in one bite, followed by a gelatinous fatty nosh in the other. The Rabo or the tail has spring and chew just like the curl of a tail would and the Cachete (cheek) is tender and juicy. Of course, if you come with someone who may blanch at uterus is on the menu, there are tamer cuts of Barriga (pork belly), Maciza (pork butt) and even gringo tacos to be had. Just like the sister restaurant, there is a salsa bar near the entryway with pickled bits and herbs. Utilize it to ward off palate fatigue from all the fat you are about to consume.
The drinks: The drinks keep it pretty basic here, lined up nice and neat on the counter. While you won't find anything blended here (aka, there is no bar), they have a good enough selection of Mexican Coca-Colas, Fantas and Pacificos.
