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Cooking Up a Storm: Desi Chefs Spice up the Big Apple
Cooking Up a Storm: Desi Chefs Spice up the Big Apple

Time of India

time04-07-2025

  • Business
  • Time of India

Cooking Up a Storm: Desi Chefs Spice up the Big Apple

Tired of too many ads? Remove Ads Tired of too many ads? Remove Ads Tired of too many ads? Remove Ads At 7:30 on a sweltering summer evening in New York City, the Garment District is winding down. The frantic activity of the Big Apple 's fashion hub gives way to a quieter time of day. But the air still hums with the excitement of secrets to be revealed. Times Square is to the north with its bright lights and heaving crowds, while the Empire State Building is unmissable, awash with colour from the lights. The mannequins in the shop windows, draped in sequined fabric, seem glimmeringly sentient. Tucked away on West 37th Street, a storefront announces Chatti in a flamboyant italic script and, in smaller but no less confident font, By Regi is the celebrated Indian chef's toddy shop-inspired, Kerala-style kitchen. And it's part of a wave. New York is in the throes of a spice-sprinkled gourmet glasnost that is unapologetically city's Indian food scene used to be split, only half-jokingly, into butter chicken for the masses, molecular gastronomy for the those extremes lay an arid vacuum. The ground has shifted with a bunch of intrepid, creative chefs serving Indian food that's uncompromisingly hyperlocal and high concept to NYC. Diners can't get enough of it. And the food critics, powerful enough to make or break restaurants in this part of the world, are the first time in its nearly century long history, the New York Times anointed an Indian restaurant—Semma—as No. 1 in its Top 100 Restaurants in NYC South Indian fine-dining destination, helmed by chef Vijay Kumar (formerly of California's Michelin-starred Rasa) and backed by restaurateurs Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya of Unapologetic Foods, has emerged as an unmistakable disruptor in fine dining. Alongside Semma, several other Indian restaurants made it to the Times' Top 100, including Dhamaka, known for its fiery, rustic menu from the Indian hinterlands; Masalawala undefined Bungalow , a newer entrant from celebrity chef Vikas Khanna blending artful plating with deep-rooted Punjabi flavours; and Dera, a Jackson Heights staple offering a rich blend of Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi Foods is at the heart of this spice-splashed revolution. Pandya has also won the much sought-after James Beard prize for chefs. Most importantly, their growing empire—Semma, Dhamaka, Adda, Masalawala & Sons and Rowdy Rooster—doesn't pander to Western palates. Dhamaka and Semma are booked months in advance. Diners are lucky if they can snag a reservation on Resy.'The Indian food scene right now is as exciting as it's ever been in New York City,' says veteran food writer Andrea Strong. 'And that's in large part because of Chintan and Roni and Vijay.'Bungalow is Vikas Khanna's most personal offering to date.'This is my last restaurant,' he says, a culinary venture that caps off a 41-year career. 'New York is not an easy restaurant space, of course; it's the greatest, and it's also the toughest.'With Bungalow, he's reclaiming memory, an ode to what his late sister told him after admonishing him for 'chasing lists.''I have so many failed businesses where I could not break the code,' he says, but Bungalow is his York has had great South Asian food for quite some time, says Ryan Sutton, a food critic who has spent over two decades writing about food for Eater and now publishes The Lo Times. 'I remember going to a wedding at the original Junoon about a decade ago—probably the best wedding food I've ever had.'There was also Hemant Mathur's now-closed Tulsi, which had a Michelin star, like Junoon. 'And of course Indian Accent rolled into town a while back, and that venue (like the late Floyd Cardoz's shuttered Tabla) proved that New Yorkers were willing to pay a serious premium for really good South Asian fare,' remembers Sutton. But admittedly, what's going on is more exciting than just trendy amuse Chatti, the room is filling up fast. Within the hour, it's packed—tables claimed, voices rising in a familiar rhythm. For a moment, it doesn't feel like New York anymore.'For so long, people only knew one kind of Indian food,' says Mathew. 'People become like a community… good food in smaller portions. Now, they're discovering the flavours of Kerala. They're discovering our stories.'Stories that—until a few years back—weren't an option in the fine dining circuit of New York's food scene. These ideas were mostly pushed to the confines of the immigrant-reliant borough of Queens.'What's happening is not a trend,' says Pandya, who fired up the kitchen at Dhamaka, listed as a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant. 'I think it took a lot of crazy steps, almost, that didn't make logical or business sense for us to arrive at this point, and those were the breakthroughs that we needed.'What is happening differently with Indian food, and specifically in their restaurants, is that they are serving the real thing. 'Food we've been cooking for a long time—at our households, at our events—but it was never represented,' says March 2017, common friends had introduced Mazumdar and Pandya to each other. Pandya says Mazumdar was 'a crazy entrepreneur' who wanted someone to partner with.'We knew one thing—our cuisine needed a radical shift,' Mazumdar says. 'Chintan had spent his whole career in fine dining. I came in with a disruptive mindset. That's where we connected. We didn't have a white paper or a protocol.'It was uncharted territory. Indian food had never really worked in this city. 'So we asked, what do we do about it?'Whether that meant serving gurda kapoora (goat kidney and testicles) or refusing to do takeout at the pandemic-born Dhamaka.'The very first time when you open the lid of a freshly cooked dish and that steam comes out—that's a dhamaka,' Pandya says. 'I cannot recreate that in a plastic container.'Currently, Semma is what every Indian wants to talk about. Kumar has taken the city by storm, given that it's unprecedented for a Tamil food-centric restaurant to get a Michelin Kumar wasn't hired to build Semma. He had written to Mazumdar when Rahi launched, saying he would love to join them he finally joined the kitchen at Rahi, his dishes stood out. At that point, Mazumdar said if they end up serving this, they would end up confusing Rahi's core consumers. So Semma was born. Rahi has since closed.'Semma showcases Tamil Nadu. Masalawala brings Kolkata. Dhamaka brought offal. This isn't about fusion or elevation. It's about recognition,' says says: 'The food is spicy, it's loud, it's rowdy, and it's fun. There's an energy to it that's similar to what you'd find in Bombay or Calcutta.'Unapologetic Foods is planning to open an Adda in Philadelphia and a fast-casual Kababwala in NYC by the end of this at Chatti, Mathew is busy attending to guests at every table—explaining toddy shop culture. Khanna says there are nights he sees scores waiting outside. 'They're just coming as a part of a pilgrimage. Agar restaurant ye create kar sakta hai, it means there's so much more.'For the first time, Indian food in New York isn't whispering. It's making noise—and it's not asking for permission. It's unapologetically Indian.

Semma to Chatti and Bungalow: Desi restaurants in Big Apple do a Dhamaka
Semma to Chatti and Bungalow: Desi restaurants in Big Apple do a Dhamaka

Economic Times

time03-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Economic Times

Semma to Chatti and Bungalow: Desi restaurants in Big Apple do a Dhamaka

Indian restaurants in New York are going unapologetically hyperlocal New York: At 7:30 on a sweltering summer evening in New York City, the Garment District is winding down. The frantic activity of the Big Apple's fashion hub gives way to a quieter time of day. But the air still hums with the excitement of secrets to be revealed. Times Square is to the north with its bright lights and heaving crowds, while the Empire State Building is unmissable, awash with colour from the lights. The mannequins in the shop windows, draped in sequined fabric, seem glimmeringly sentient. Tucked away on West 37th Street, a storefront announces Chatti in a flamboyant italic script and, in smaller but no less confident font, By Regi is the celebrated Indian chef's toddy shop-inspired, Kerala-style kitchen. And it's part of a wave. New York is in the throes of a spice-sprinkled gourmet glasnost that is unapologetically city's Indian food scene used to be split, only half-jokingly, into butter chicken for the masses, molecular gastronomy for the those extremes lay an arid vacuum. The ground has shifted with a bunch of intrepid, creative chefs serving Indian food that's uncompromisingly hyperlocal and high concept to NYC. Diners can't get enough of it. And the food critics, powerful enough to make or break restaurants in this part of the world, are the first time in its nearly century long history, the New York Times anointed an Indian restaurant—Semma—as No. 1 in its Top 100 Restaurants in NYC list. The South Indian fine-dining destination, helmed by chef Vijay Kumar (formerly of California's Michelin-starred Rasa) and backed by restaurateurs Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya of Unapologetic Foods, has emerged as an unmistakable disruptor in fine dining. Alongside Semma, several other Indian restaurants made it to the Times' Top 100, including Dhamaka, known for its fiery, rustic menu from the Indian hinterlands; Masalawala & Sons, a nostalgic tribute to Bengali home cooking; Bungalow, a newer entrant from celebrity chef Vikas Khanna blending artful plating with deep-rooted Punjabi flavours; and Dera, a Jackson Heights staple offering a rich blend of Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi Foods is at the heart of this spice-splashed revolution. Pandya has also won the much sought-after James Beard prize for chefs. Most importantly, their growing empire—Semma, Dhamaka, Adda, Masalawala & Sons and Rowdy Rooster—doesn't pander to Western palates. Dhamaka and Semma are booked months in advance. Diners are lucky if they can snag a reservation on Resy.'The Indian food scene right now is as exciting as it's ever been in New York City,' says veteran food writer Andrea Strong. 'And that's in large part because of Chintan and Roni and Vijay.'Bungalow is Vikas Khanna's most personal offering to date.'This is my last restaurant,' he says, a culinary venture that caps off a 41-year career. 'New York is not an easy restaurant space, of course; it's the greatest, and it's also the toughest.'With Bungalow, he's reclaiming memory, an ode to what his late sister told him after admonishing him for 'chasing lists.''I have so many failed businesses where I could not break the code,' he says, but Bungalow is his homecoming. New York has had great South Asian food for quite some time, says Ryan Sutton, a food critic who has spent over two decades writing about food for Eater and now publishes The Lo Times. 'I remember going to a wedding at the original Junoon about a decade ago—probably the best wedding food I've ever had.' There was also Hemant Mathur's now-closed Tulsi, which had a Michelin star, like Junoon. 'And of course Indian Accent rolled into town a while back, and that venue (like the late Floyd Cardoz's shuttered Tabla) proved that New Yorkers were willing to pay a serious premium for really good South Asian fare,' remembers Sutton. But admittedly, what's going on is more exciting than just trendy amuse bouche. Inside Chatti, the room is filling up fast. Within the hour, it's packed—tables claimed, voices rising in a familiar rhythm. For a moment, it doesn't feel like New York anymore.'For so long, people only knew one kind of Indian food,' says Mathew. 'People become like a community… good food in smaller portions. Now, they're discovering the flavours of Kerala. They're discovering our stories.'Stories that—until a few years back—weren't an option in the fine dining circuit of New York's food scene. These ideas were mostly pushed to the confines of the immigrant-reliant borough of Queens.'What's happening is not a trend,' says Pandya, who fired up the kitchen at Dhamaka, listed as a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant. 'I think it took a lot of crazy steps, almost, that didn't make logical or business sense for us to arrive at this point, and those were the breakthroughs that we needed.'What is happening differently with Indian food, and specifically in their restaurants, is that they are serving the real thing. 'Food we've been cooking for a long time—at our households, at our events—but it was never represented,' says March 2017, common friends had introduced Mazumdar and Pandya to each other. Pandya says Mazumdar was 'a crazy entrepreneur' who wanted someone to partner with.'We knew one thing—our cuisine needed a radical shift,' Mazumdar says. 'Chintan had spent his whole career in fine dining. I came in with a disruptive mindset. That's where we connected. We didn't have a white paper or a protocol.'It was uncharted territory. Indian food had never really worked in this city. 'So we asked, what do we do about it?'Whether that meant serving gurda kapoora (goat kidney and testicles) or refusing to do takeout at the pandemic-born Dhamaka.'The very first time when you open the lid of a freshly cooked dish and that steam comes out—that's a dhamaka,' Pandya says. 'I cannot recreate that in a plastic container.'Currently, Semma is what every Indian wants to talk about. Kumar has taken the city by storm, given that it's unprecedented for a Tamil food-centric restaurant to get a Michelin Kumar wasn't hired to build Semma. He had written to Mazumdar when Rahi launched, saying he would love to join them he finally joined the kitchen at Rahi, his dishes stood out. At that point, Mazumdar said if they end up serving this, they would end up confusing Rahi's core consumers. So Semma was born. Rahi has since closed.'Semma showcases Tamil Nadu. Masalawala brings Kolkata. Dhamaka brought offal. This isn't about fusion or elevation. It's about recognition,' says says: 'The food is spicy, it's loud, it's rowdy, and it's fun. There's an energy to it that's similar to what you'd find in Bombay or Calcutta.'Unapologetic Foods is planning to open an Adda in Philadelphia and a fast-casual Kababwala in NYC by the end of this at Chatti, Mathew is busy attending to guests at every table—explaining toddy shop culture. Khanna says there are nights he sees scores waiting outside. 'They're just coming as a part of a pilgrimage. Agar restaurant ye create kar sakta hai, it means there's so much more.'For the first time, Indian food in New York isn't whispering. It's making noise—and it's not asking for permission. It's unapologetically Indian.

Semma to Chatti and Bungalow: Desi restaurants in Big Apple do a Dhamaka
Semma to Chatti and Bungalow: Desi restaurants in Big Apple do a Dhamaka

Time of India

time03-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Time of India

Semma to Chatti and Bungalow: Desi restaurants in Big Apple do a Dhamaka

New York: At 7:30 on a sweltering summer evening in New York City, the Garment District is winding down. The frantic activity of the Big Apple's fashion hub gives way to a quieter time of day. But the air still hums with the excitement of secrets to be revealed. Times Square is to the north with its bright lights and heaving crowds, while the Empire State Building is unmissable, awash with colour from the lights. The mannequins in the shop windows, draped in sequined fabric, seem glimmeringly sentient. Tucked away on West 37th Street, a storefront announces Chatti in a flamboyant italic script and, in smaller but no less confident font, By Regi Mathew. This is the celebrated Indian chef's toddy shop-inspired, Kerala-style kitchen. And it's part of a wave. New York is in the throes of a spice-sprinkled gourmet glasnost that is unapologetically Indian. The city's Indian food scene used to be split, only half-jokingly, into butter chicken for the masses, molecular gastronomy for the critics. by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like An engineer reveals: 1 simple trick to get all TV channels Techno Mag Learn More Undo Between those extremes lay an arid vacuum. The ground has shifted with a bunch of intrepid, creative chefs serving Indian food that's uncompromisingly hyperlocal and high concept to NYC. Diners can't get enough of it. And the food critics, powerful enough to make or break restaurants in this part of the world, are raving. For the first time in its nearly century long history, the New York Times anointed an Indian restaurant—Semma—as No. 1 in its Top 100 Restaurants in NYC list. Live Events The South Indian fine-dining destination, helmed by chef Vijay Kumar (formerly of California's Michelin-starred Rasa) and backed by restaurateurs Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya of Unapologetic Foods, has emerged as an unmistakable disruptor in fine dining. Alongside Semma , several other Indian restaurants made it to the Times' Top 100, including Dhamaka, known for its fiery, rustic menu from the Indian hinterlands; Masalawala & Sons, a nostalgic tribute to Bengali home cooking; Bungalow, a newer entrant from celebrity chef Vikas Khanna blending artful plating with deep-rooted Punjabi flavours; and Dera, a Jackson Heights staple offering a rich blend of Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi dishes. Not Pandering to Western Palates Unapologetic Foods is at the heart of this spice-splashed revolution. Pandya has also won the much sought-after James Beard prize for chefs. Most importantly, their growing empire—Semma, Dhamaka, Adda, Masalawala & Sons and Rowdy Rooster—doesn't pander to Western palates. Dhamaka and Semma are booked months in advance. Diners are lucky if they can snag a reservation on Resy. 'The Indian food scene right now is as exciting as it's ever been in New York City,' says veteran food writer Andrea Strong. 'And that's in large part because of Chintan and Roni and Vijay.' Bungalow is Vikas Khanna's most personal offering to date. 'This is my last restaurant,' he says, a culinary venture that caps off a 41-year career. 'New York is not an easy restaurant space, of course; it's the greatest, and it's also the toughest.' With Bungalow, he's reclaiming memory, an ode to what his late sister told him after admonishing him for 'chasing lists.' 'I have so many failed businesses where I could not break the code,' he says, but Bungalow is his homecoming. New York has had great South Asian food for quite some time, says Ryan Sutton, a food critic who has spent over two decades writing about food for Eater and now publishes The Lo Times. 'I remember going to a wedding at the original Junoon about a decade ago—probably the best wedding food I've ever had.' There was also Hemant Mathur's now-closed Tulsi, which had a Michelin star, like Junoon. 'And of course Indian Accent rolled into town a while back, and that venue (like the late Floyd Cardoz's shuttered Tabla) proved that New Yorkers were willing to pay a serious premium for really good South Asian fare,' remembers Sutton. But admittedly, what's going on is more exciting than just trendy amuse bouche. Inside Chatti, the room is filling up fast. Within the hour, it's packed—tables claimed, voices rising in a familiar rhythm. For a moment, it doesn't feel like New York anymore. 'For so long, people only knew one kind of Indian food,' says Mathew. 'People become like a community… good food in smaller portions. Now, they're discovering the flavours of Kerala. They're discovering our stories.' Stories that—until a few years back—weren't an option in the fine dining circuit of New York's food scene. These ideas were mostly pushed to the confines of the immigrant-reliant borough of Queens. Unapologetically Indian 'What's happening is not a trend,' says Pandya, who fired up the kitchen at Dhamaka, listed as a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant. 'I think it took a lot of crazy steps, almost, that didn't make logical or business sense for us to arrive at this point, and those were the breakthroughs that we needed.' What is happening differently with Indian food, and specifically in their restaurants, is that they are serving the real thing. 'Food we've been cooking for a long time—at our households, at our events—but it was never represented,' says Mazumdar. In March 2017, common friends had introduced Mazumdar and Pandya to each other. Pandya says Mazumdar was 'a crazy entrepreneur' who wanted someone to partner with. 'We knew one thing—our cuisine needed a radical shift,' Mazumdar says. 'Chintan had spent his whole career in fine dining. I came in with a disruptive mindset. That's where we connected. We didn't have a white paper or a protocol.' It was uncharted territory. Indian food had never really worked in this city. 'So we asked, what do we do about it?' Whether that meant serving gurda kapoora (goat kidney and testicles) or refusing to do takeout at the pandemic-born Dhamaka. 'The very first time when you open the lid of a freshly cooked dish and that steam comes out—that's a dhamaka,' Pandya says. 'I cannot recreate that in a plastic container.' Semma Sensation Currently, Semma is what every Indian wants to talk about. Kumar has taken the city by storm, given that it's unprecedented for a Tamil food-centric restaurant to get a Michelin star. Originally, Kumar wasn't hired to build Semma. He had written to Mazumdar when Rahi launched, saying he would love to join them someday. When he finally joined the kitchen at Rahi, his dishes stood out. At that point, Mazumdar said if they end up serving this, they would end up confusing Rahi's core consumers. So Semma was born. Rahi has since closed. 'Semma showcases Tamil Nadu. Masalawala brings Kolkata. Dhamaka brought offal. This isn't about fusion or elevation. It's about recognition,' says Sutton. Strong says: 'The food is spicy, it's loud, it's rowdy, and it's fun. There's an energy to it that's similar to what you'd find in Bombay or Calcutta.' Unapologetic Foods is planning to open an Adda in Philadelphia and a fast-casual Kababwala in NYC by the end of this year. Back at Chatti, Mathew is busy attending to guests at every table—explaining toddy shop culture. Khanna says there are nights he sees scores waiting outside. 'They're just coming as a part of a pilgrimage. Agar restaurant ye create kar sakta hai, it means there's so much more.' For the first time, Indian food in New York isn't whispering. It's making noise—and it's not asking for permission. It's unapologetically Indian.

Author Prajwal Parajuly tries Chatti in New York and eats his words
Author Prajwal Parajuly tries Chatti in New York and eats his words

The Hindu

time02-07-2025

  • The Hindu

Author Prajwal Parajuly tries Chatti in New York and eats his words

I am often asked what I do when I want Chennai food in New York. I matter-of-factly say I go to Semma — the best-known Indian restaurant in America — like getting a table there isn't an ordeal. In truth, though, I have long dismissed people who live between countries and hanker for one place when they are in another. This applies to those fools who complain about the lack of good pizza in Delhi while they eat at an Indian restaurant in London every third day. Ditto for those craving the perfect filter coffee in San Francisco and then crying about the inauthentic Mexican food in Pune. One of the privileges of actually living between cities is that you don't have to miss a particular food for too long. Besides, why would I want to eat Indian food outside India, I have often argued. All that was, of course, until I started seeing someone who has taken it upon herself to convince me that no cuisine can quite measure up to Indian. After countless battles about where to eat, especially when we travel, we have come to a compromise. Because my deliciously alliterative name would be well accentuated with a middle initial — Prajwal P for Pretentious Parajuly — I have consented to visiting an Indian restaurant abroad only if it has at least a Michelin star. So, yes, I'll allow myself to be dragged, kicking and screaming, to one of the seven starred Indian restaurants in London or to the above-mentioned Semma, the lone starred Indian place in New York, all the while feeling smug that I have come out far ahead in the bargain. Sometimes I'll altruistically make exceptions for non-starred restaurants: Bungalow, Dhamaka and Kanyakumari in New York (fair, good, good). Chutney Mary in London (very good). And the just-opened Chatti in New York, the first foreign foray of Chef Regi of the Kappa Chakka Kandhari fame, which is too young to earn a star. Now, I have been a KCK fan for a while. The food that's served at the Nungambakkam, Chennai, establishment is what your nonagenarian Malayalee grandmother might whip up. Everything I have eaten there — the lobster fry, the coconut prawn, the duck mappas — is wholesome. But my relationship with the restaurant is somewhat mangled by the cloud pudding — that ridiculous, magnificent tender-coconut dome. The blancmange is as light as a cloud, fluffy as a cloud, luminescent as a cloud. It feels like you're consuming air, if air were filled with whimsy and delight and agar agar. As a novelist, I am wary of PhD theses finding symbolism in my books where there's none, but I see, after the many times I have intellectualised a damn pudding, how the temptation might arise. Still, I now realise I've done KCK a disservice by being fanatical about the cloud pudding, which is just one exceptional item on a menu bursting with exceptional foods. I'd have to redeem myself at Chatti. First, the size hits me. I've been told it's toddy-shop food, so I expect the restaurant to look a bit distressed, down-market even, but the two-storied Chatti is a ritzier iteration of KCK. There are marble tables, teak chairs and conches on every placemat. The 90-seat restaurant, a hop and a skip from the hell that is Times Square, is ambitious all right. Despite its being just four months old, tables are hard to come by. I'd know because I have gone twice in 10 days. The first time, we went as a twosome. Greedy to try out more food, we cobbled together a group of four to return. Getting a Saturday-evening reservation involved some dexterously placed phone calls. The tablemats show off a mind-boggling array of appetisers; we tell Chef Regi our order is in his hands. Plates of perfectly spiced prawn pouches steamed in banana leaves materialise. These are followed by scallops, mini appams, curry-leaf mushrooms and a slow-simmered seafood moilee soup. I pop in my mouth the flavour bomb that's the Calicut mussel, seasoned with curry leaves, coconut oil, chilli, coriander powder, turmeric, and lemon juice. It's sensational. Others are distracted by the Ramapuram chicken curry. Many variations of 'homey' are thrown around. The rice dumplings in coconut milk are unlike anything I've had before. The overnight-fermented clay pot fish curry is unusual in that it is served at room temperature. I fall for the black-chickpea kadala curry. It's so light. The snapper — spiced with tender peppercorn, gooseberry, Kandhari chilli and turmeric — makes me want to cry with joy. And there's ghee rice. How can rice — rice! — be so magical? It smells of cardamom and ghee and tastes exactly like it smells. It's toddy-shop cuisine, so the drinks can't be far behind. The Malayalee Old-Fashioned — embellished with toasted coconut, bitters and jaggery — is theatrically revealed, but it's the tequila-based Kandhari drink, in which the flavour of the lethal Kandhari chilli has been playfully captured, that does it for me. The clarified sambar drink—appropriately named Sam Bar—is someone else's favourite. 'Will it get a star?' one of us asks. I think it will. It better. This is good, sincere food. It's quality food. It's happy food. It's food that transcends what's on the plate. It's food that tells stories. I am eager for others to experience the dessert, my slice of Chennai, the divine dome of KCK. The cloud pudding — an eye-wateringly expensive $16 — pinches me hard because I have eaten it in Chennai for 125 rupees. Our group is divided. Two of us declare the pudding sublime. The other two pronounce the jaggery palada superior. It doesn't matter. We order another cloud pudding. It's worth every one of those darn sixteen dollars. The chef sends us yet another. Prajwal Parajuly is the author of The Gurkha's Daughter and Land Where I Flee. He loves idli, loathes naan, and is indifferent to coffee. He teaches Creative Writing at Krea University and oscillates between New York City and Sri City.

A Toddy Shop By An Indian Chef Adds To NYC's Cuisine
A Toddy Shop By An Indian Chef Adds To NYC's Cuisine

Forbes

time21-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Forbes

A Toddy Shop By An Indian Chef Adds To NYC's Cuisine

Chef Regi Matthew thought New York was the perfect city to introduce an Indian restaurant Chatti in ... More the Garment Center, known for specializing in toddy's, a dish native to India. New York City foodies are always in search of new cuisine to find unique flavors and tastes that stretch their palate. And since 38% of its population consists of immigrants, New Yorkers have a wide-ranging palette. Drawn to New York City because of its international cuisine, India-born chef Regi Mathew opened Chatti on West 37th Street on Feb. 12, 2025 in the Garment Center area in proximity to Times Square and Penn Station. Mathew hails from Kerala on India's southwestern coast, and is known for launching the restaurant chain Kappa Chakka Kandhari in Chenni and Bangalore India, but this is his first international venture. Mathew suggests that Indian food in New York City is becoming increasingly regionalized, reflecting different areas of India, rather than offering the same old-time favorites like chicken curry. He calls Kerala the 'land of spices' since it has traditionally attracted traders and travelers from different areas overseas. He chose New York City, over London or Paris, because 'New York is definitely the best place when it comes to gourmet audiences. They are well-traveled and appreciate good food. I want to present my food on the best possible stage.' Introducing a Toddy Eatery to NYC He describes Chatti as a toddy shop, which leads to dishes called 'touchings' that are slow-cooked and often eaten with one's hands. To develop his personal recipes, Matthew traversed India and stopped at over 70 toddy shops, where he learned that the food 'changes from village to village, shaped by what's available and who's cooking it.' Toddy's are best compared to tapas and function as appetizers, and they combine well with 'great conversation and good drinks,' he explains. Chatti's food, he says, is 'not heavy, not too many allergens, no nuts.' The word 'chatti' refers to the classic container used in curry shops. Pawn Pouches Are One Example Some of his signature toddy's include prawn pouches, consisting of prawns with coconut masala, beef fry, tapioca patties, and clay pot fish curry. He says the prawn pouches are 'delicate and aromatic, steamed in banana leaves,' the clay pot fish curry 'is bold and slow-cooked with pieces' and the tapioca patties are 'crispy, golden and comforting.' Two of the most popular entrées ordered are halibut grilled with gooseberry masala and rice dumplings in coconut milk with chicken curry. He adds that social media has been a useful tool for its guests to send photos of toddy's to friends to get the word out. Yet, he admits that most mainstays of Indian cuisine in the New York City area aren't on the menu so you don't find samosas or chicken curry. 'The food we are preparing is from Indian cuisine,' not Americanized, he suggests. The average dinner check at Chatti's is $60 to $70 per person for lunch and $80 to $100 per person at dinner, excluding liquor. It seats 90 guests in the main dining rooms and up to 70 guests in a mezzanine, used for private events including birthdays, anniversaries, reunions and corporate gatherings. Capitalizing an eatery in NYC is an expensive endeavor. Mathew says he received investments from a select few U.S.-based investors, who were aligned with his culinary vision. Targeting the Curious Diner Bungalow, the well-respected East Village eatery started by chef Vikas Khanna, often attracts a clientele that is 75% Indian people, but Mathew says Chatti appeals to 'the curious, open-minded diner who's ready to explore Indian food beyond the familiar.' Yet he acknowledges that many Indian people are discovering it and bringing their Indian friends with them. For example, a friend of mine who is an Indian Google engineer has already dined there. When this reporter dined at Chatti early on a Sunday evening, he and a friend ordered the prawn pouches and a chicken pouch, then a seafood and coriander chicken dish ending with cloud pudding, a coconut dessert, for a delicious meal. Most diners on Yelp were pleased about their Chatti meal. Beth from White Plains, N.Y. said 'If you're craving bold, authentic Kerala flavors, Chatti is the place to be.' She enjoyed the beef fry appetizer, Trivandrum chicken fry, and calamari and shrimp, and the cloud pudding dessert. And Chripa from New Hyde Park, N.Y. enjoyed her beef curry, the duck curry with the roasted coconut and black pepper, which she scooped up and ate like soup. She liked the touchings, reporting that her table of 4 people ordered 5 of them as appetizers. Mathew says he's only concentrating on making Chatti successful, and not delving into the future and exploring opening a second location. Asked the keys to the future success, he replied, #1 Staying true to the cuisine, #2 The right ingredients, #3 The right cooking style. So in essence, he said the regional Indian cooking will determine its success. Lastly, he adds, most Americans view Indian cuisine as spicy, but he emphasizes that Chatti's food is 'flavorful, not pungent.'

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