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Dubai: Why Chic Nonna's chef Francesco Torcasio likes his pasta a bit burnt
Dubai: Why Chic Nonna's chef Francesco Torcasio likes his pasta a bit burnt

Khaleej Times

time6 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Khaleej Times

Dubai: Why Chic Nonna's chef Francesco Torcasio likes his pasta a bit burnt

The glow was warm and inviting. The clang of pots and pans, the shuffle of feet, the gentle shower of flour as dough scratched the table and was kneaded into submission, the burble of the tomato sauce boiling on the stove, and the mumble of voices swapping stories amid it all – young Italian Francesco Torcasio found himself mesmerised as watched his mother and grandmother cook for the family. 'I kept wanting to try helping with the preparation and everything, but they would keep refusing,' says the recently appointed executive chef of Chic Nonna, DIFC. 'It was like a big secret that I wanted to know. Especially when I tasted the food, I wanted to know how they did it,' he laughs. Not one to ignore his curiosity, by 15 the Calabria-born Francesco was working at a local pastry shop, learning about precise measurements and the science of creating treats from scratch. He went on to work in kitchens across the country, exploring delicacies from different regions, cultivating a skill that would work greatly in his favour when he made his move to the UAE in 2017. It was here that he joined the Il Borro Tuscan Bistro's foundational team as a commis at 18. By 21, he had worked his way to senior chef de partie. And in 2021, he helped the brand expand to London. Two years ago, he returned to Dubai as the head chef of Chic Nonna, which pays homage to Italy and the nonnas (or grandmothers) who truly perfected the cuisine. This is where his vision found expression; he is currently known for making the traditional unconventional through the subtle use of flavours and the expert use of technique. Take, for example, the spaghetti all'assassina – a dish traced to the Puglia region in Italy – that is almost burnt to perfection. 'Basically, the spaghetti doesn't go in the water,' explains Francesco. It's made using leftover pasta that is directly put in a pan with garlic, chilli, spic-es, and tomato sauce until it's a bit charred and superbly crunchy. To contemporise the dish, Francesco added burrata to it. 'For someone who is not Italian, this may be a little difficult to navigate, because the dish is spicy. But by adding the burrata, I balanced the flavours,' he says. It was a calculated addition to the restaurant's offerings because in the UAE, he ex-plains, people like the Arrabbiata sauce. Which is similar, if not as concentrated. 'Adding burrata was like taking two things locals loved and putting them together.' Another interesting addition is the risotto Milanese, which is made by slow cooking veal shank. 'I added locally produced saffron (from Sharjah) to this dish. The colour is perfect, the risotto is very balanced and has a nice taste,' he says. His efforts have won him plenty of fans – and Chic Nona a Golden Lion at the Venice Festival, for its role in preserving and exporting Italian culinary heritage. And the brand is all set to reach further; it has already expanded to Courchevel, and looking at branches in Monaco, London and Miami. To take an international favourite and give it a local twist is something the chef excels in. He hopes the familiarity will help people discover new dishes. 'One of the common mistakes people make in Dubai is that they always order the same food, because maybe they think that this is all there is to Italian food. But Italian cuisine is very deep in the region, and there is a lot of variance in dishes when you go from south to north. When I go to the table to meet a guest, I always bring something from the south and something from the north, because I want them to try all of the different dishes that we have in the region,' he says. That said, the inventor isn't pleased with all the pasta cooking trends that dominate social media feeds (sorry Meghan Markle). He grimaces at the thought of overcooking pasta as much as he does a one-pot pasta dish. 'Pasta is simple but it's not something basic. Dropping everything into one pot is not pasta. For one thing, there are so many different types – and they should be cooked differently. So, when I see people maybe making fun of the dish or just putting everything -cream, pasta, tomato in a dish and put in the oven... That is something strange,' he says. He would never do it himself, he claims, adding that when he is in a hurry, his go-to is spaghetti with cherry tomato. 'It is a quick pasta, but full of flavour with just some nice, extra virgin olive oil, sweet cherry tomato, a little bit of garlic,' he says. Simple notes that remind him of home; of growing up in a place where the kitchen was full of cheer as knives worked to cleave meat, pasta was kneaded by practiced hands, and tomatoes and spices burbled together to create a rich sauce that would be the day's conversation starter at the dinner table.

Interview: Chef Francesco Torcasio, Executive Chef of Chic Nonna
Interview: Chef Francesco Torcasio, Executive Chef of Chic Nonna

Emirates Woman

time16-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Emirates Woman

Interview: Chef Francesco Torcasio, Executive Chef of Chic Nonna

Tucked within the elegant heart of DIFC, Chic Nonna is more than just a fine-dining Italian restaurant — it's a living love letter to tradition. At the helm is Chef Francesco Torcasio, whose soulful cooking has captivated the city's most discerning palates and recently earned the restaurant a Golden Lion at the Venice Festival, awarded in recognition of its role in preserving and exporting Italian culinary heritage. Here, Emirates Man sat down with Chef Francesco to talk memories, the magic of Assassina Pasta, and what true Italian luxury tastes like — thousands of kilometers from home. Chef Francesco Torcasio, Executive Chef of Chic Nonna Tell us about your journey into the culinary world — when did you know you wanted to be a chef? I was born in a small village in Calabria southern Italy, where food was at the heart of every family gathering. My earliest memories are filled with the aroma of slow-cooked sauces simmering in my mother's kitchen and the laughter that echoed through the house as we prepared meals together. I didn't choose to become a chef — it chose me. Cooking was a way of life in our home, a love language passed down through generations. How has your Italian heritage and family influenced the way you cook today? Everything I create is deeply rooted in where I come from. My cooking is not just about flavor — it's about memory, emotion, and tradition. When I recreate a dish, I'm not just chasing taste; I'm chasing a feeling. My grandmother's Sunday ragù, the scent of wild fennel in the countryside, the fresh seafood from the Calabrian coast — these memories live on in every plate I serve. Chic Nonna in Dubai is known for its bold, nostalgic flavors. Can you tell us the story behind one of your signature dishes — the Assassina Pasta? Ah, the Assassina! It's a rebellious dish with a story as fiery as its taste. Originating from Bari in Puglia, the pasta is 'killed' — that's the literal translation — in the pan until it becomes beautifully charred and caramelized. It's rustic, unapologetic, and full of character. I remember tasting it for the first time during a family holiday in Puglia when I was young. That burnt, spicy edge shocked my palate — and I loved it. At Chic Nonna, I reimagine the Assassina by balancing tradition with refinement. It's a tribute to the boldness of southern Italy and to the idea that even imperfections — a burnt edge, a bit of spice topped by the creamiest Burrata — can be beautiful. Another standout on the menu is your Fregola al Gambero Rosso. What inspired this dish? This dish is very close to my heart. Fregola is a Sardinian pasta — small, toasted pearls that soak up flavor like a sponge. I pair it with Gambero Rosso, the red prawn known for its intense sweetness and depth. It's a simple dish in appearance but layered in technique and emotion. It is a dish that embodies delicate yet layered flavors —the sweetness of Mazara prawns, the umami depth of the bisque, and the citrusy brightness from Sicilian lemon zest. The idea came from a childhood memory of one of my summers spent in Sardinia with my family. This dish is a reflection of my childhood summers spent in Sardinia, particularly our visits to the Islands of Maddalena, this place holds a special place in my heart. I was always captivated by the Fregola al Gambero rosso, yet I found it fascinating that its brilliance remained largely unknown beyond the island's shores. It became my mission to introduce it to a wider audience while honoring its authentic essence. At Chic Nonna, the Fregola is cooked almost like a risotto, enriched with a bisque made from the prawn, and finished with lemon zest. The allure of this dish lies in its intriguing balance of textures and flavors. The fregola's unique shape and toasty notes provide an incredible base, while the prawn bisque enriches every bite with depth and intensity. It's a dish that surprises and delights the palate, making it a sunshine on a plate. The owner of Chic Nonna recently received the Golden Lion at the Venice Festival. How did feel to accomplish this as a team? It was a deeply emotional moment. The Golden Lion is such an iconic symbol in Italian culture — to receive it in recognition of bringing our culinary heritage abroad was incredibly humbling. It's not just a collective achievement; it's a celebration of every Italian nonna, every Sunday lunch, every traditional recipe passed down through generations. For our team, it was a reminder that authenticity matters. That staying true to our roots, even when we're far from home, can resonate with people all over the world. What does fine dining Italian cuisine mean to you today — especially in a city like Dubai? For me, fine dining is not about gold leaf or extravagant ingredients. It's about the respect for tradition, the care in execution, and the ability to make people feel something through food. Dubai is a city that celebrates ambition, and at Chic Nonna, we bring that same spirit to the table — with authenticity. My goal is always to serve food that transports you, whether it's to the hills of Tuscany, the shores of Calabria, or the streets of Bari. What's next for you — are there any new dishes or ideas you're excited to bring to Chic Nonna? I'm constantly inspired by my travels, conversations, and even old family recipes I rediscover in forgotten notebooks. Right now, I'm working on a new dish that plays with the flavors of sea urchins but reimagined in a completely unexpected way. I believe that the soul of Italian cooking is eternal, but how we tell the story can always evolve. And after the honor of receiving the Golden Lion, we feel more motivated than ever to continue telling the world what Italian cuisine truly stands for — heart, history, and heritage. – For more on luxury lifestyle, news, fashion and beauty follow Emirates Woman on Facebook and Instagram Images: Supplied

Food review: Chic Nonna — where business meets flavour
Food review: Chic Nonna — where business meets flavour

Khaleej Times

time27-02-2025

  • Business
  • Khaleej Times

Food review: Chic Nonna — where business meets flavour

Chic Nonna has mastered the fine art of the Italian midday break with its brilliantly curated 'Nonna's Business Lunch'. A bustling, lively gem set within DIFC, this refined Italian eatery is one you won't want to miss—just look for the striking bright green door. The restaurant effortlessly balances luxury and warmth. Its two-level space features an open kitchen at its heart, allowing diners to watch the magic unfold, while the upstairs lounge oozes style and comfort for a post-lunch escape. Despite the lively lunchtime crowd, the atmosphere was energetic yet polished—a testament to Chic Nonna's inviting, Italian charm. The menu, designed by Chef Francesco Torcasio, combines Italy's cherished lunchtime traditions with a modern twist. We opted for the two-course menu (Dh130) and were blown away by the value for money. To start, the Gamberi e Caponata was a standout—succulent prawns paired with sautéed seasonal vegetables and a perfectly balanced sweet-and-sour dressing. For the main course, the Cannelloni Ricotta e Spinaci delivered a comforting richness with its soft, house-made pasta stuffed with creamy ricotta and spinach. The service perfectly embodied Italian hospitality—warm, attentive, and refreshingly unpretentious. Each dish arrived promptly despite the restaurant being quite busy, which speaks volumes about Chic Nonna's dedication to providing an elegant yet efficient lunch service. For those able to spare time for dessert, the Pannacotta al Frutto della Passione presents a silky blend of sweetness and fruity tang, while artisanal gelato offers a more traditional taste of Italy. Chic Nonna proves that a business lunch doesn't need to feel rushed or transactional. Whether you're looking for a break mid-workday or hosting clients, this elevated dining experience redefines what lunch can be. Booking is essential—not just for its popularity but to soak in every moment of this chic Italian haven. Details for Nonna's Business Lunch Location: Chic Nonna, DIFC (look out for the green door!) Timing: Monday to Friday, 12pm – 2pm

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