7 days ago
How Sau Lee Became Fashion's Coveted Cool-Girl Heritage Label
Cheryl Leung, founder of Sau Lee wearing a design from the brand's FW25 collection Courtesy of Sau Lee
It's been a busy 12 months for Sau Lee. The brand, founded by Cheryl Leung in 2014 with an aim to fill a gap in the market, has taken over both sides of the Atlantic and caused quite a stir in the industry. Following a string of successful collection launches and seamlessly executed events, the cult-favorite label has catapulted from beloved insider secret to bona-fide industry darling.
Despite her experience at Bloomberg and Lane Crawford, Leung — a psychology major at UCLA — had zero formal design training under her belt when she founded the brand. But she knew instinctively there was a blank space for what she had in mind. 'Where the intricate beauty of Chinese craftsmanship could exist in harmony with contemporary design,' recalls Leung of those early days now over a decade ago.
What seemed like an audacious leap has transformed into a global fashion phenomenon that dressed countless A-listers (think Gemma Chan, Jamie Chung and Winnie Harlow) and amassed a fanbase devoted to the label's unique take on East-meets-West.
Gemma Chan in Sau Lee Courtesy of Sau Lee
jamie Chung in Sau Lee Courtesy of Sau Lee
Growing up between the United States and Hong Kong gave Leung an edge in understanding both sides of the world. She watched women around her struggle to find sophisticated pieces that celebrated Eastern heritage without falling into costume territory. The cheongsam, or Qipao, was her inspiration and unique selling point: a garment that embodies everything she loved and sought to achieve.
'I grew up seeing my mother wearing Cheongsams to special occasions and celebrations, and I always thought they were so sophisticated and romantic,' says Leung, referring to the traditional silhouette that anchors every collection. 'I love that it balances the modesty of a high mandarin collar, with the sensuality of a thigh high slit, and a figure skimming shape that both flatters and honors the female form.'
'It's about honoring tradition while making it wearable and empowering in a modern context.'
Combining her ultra chic, signature silhouettes with innovative fabrics, Leung effortlessly put the fun back in dressing up. Unlike other brands attempting to sell Chinese elements as a 'ritual' or 'tradition,' Sau Lee's approach is refreshingly unserious — in the best way possible.
Cheryl Leung has crafted a unique aesthetic identify for Sau Lee, one that's authentic to her own heritage yet incredibly appealing to the new generation of style-conscious shoppers Courtesy of Sau Lee
Embracing cultural references and traditional techniques, Sau Lee's range of occasion wear is the definition of glamor, playfulness, and female empowerment. The distinctive identity was born from something deeply personal — the women who shaped Leung's world — and the name itself tells the story: Sau is from the Chinese middle name she shares with her sister, and Lee from her mother's maiden name.
'The women in my family are deep sources of inspiration to me, along with my heritage, which I wanted to represent in my brand name instead of using my English name Cheryl,' she explains.
The journey as a fashion entrepreneur wasn't without its battles. Leung admits that navigating an industry that often fetishizes Eastern aesthetics or overlooks them entirely was one of the greatest challenges she has faced. Building a brand that proudly showcases Chinese design elements while ensuring universal appeal is an art for walking a cultural thin line, which Leung has perfected after a decade — proving that Chinese-inspired fashion could be contemporary, sophisticated, and globally relevant rather than merely exotic.
Ming Lee and Cheryl Leung (center) attending the Fashion Awards 2024 in Sau Lee with industry opinion leaders Courtesy of Sau Lee
As the barrier to entry in the fashion landscape lowers and the appeal of 'solopreneurship' rises, I ask Leung on her strategy in sustaining and accelerating Sau Lee's growth. 'The fashion industry has become more democratized and digitally driven, but also more volatile and over-saturated,' Leung says, 'Brand loyalty now hinges on transparency, values, and emotional resonance.'
'If I had to name one crucial element for thriving today, it would be authentic storytelling,' she declares. 'In a crowded market, consumers gravitate toward brands that feel personal, that speak to identity and aspiration.'
Having recently launched the brand's first summer shoe staple, Sau Lee continues to expand beyond signature occasion wear and now includes categories like separates, outerwear, and a hugely successful handbag line — those adorned with the brand's signature dainty pipa knots are particularly coveted.
'We are committed to evolving while staying rooted in our identity,' Leung explains, expressing particular excitement about exploring artisanal techniques from various regions in China and reinterpreting them for global audiences. For her, success isn't just measured in revenue or red carpet moments — it's about building a cultural bridge that allows women worldwide to experience the 'romance and opulence of Chinese culture' while feeling 'confident, sensual, and effortlessly captivating.'
