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Belgium's Meryll Rogge Wins Andam Grand Prize 2025
Belgium's Meryll Rogge Wins Andam Grand Prize 2025

Business of Fashion

time30-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Business of Fashion

Belgium's Meryll Rogge Wins Andam Grand Prize 2025

Ghent-based designer Meryll Rogge has been named the 2025 grand prize winner of France's most prestigious fashion awards programme, the Andam Prize. Known for her offbeat takes on classic womenswear, Rogge, who cut her teeth at Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten, will receive €300,000 ($350,000) to develop her five-year-old label, alongside a year's worth of mentorship from Sidney Toledano, president of Institut Français de la Mode, senior advisor to the LVMH chairman and chief executive Bernard Arnault and former CEO of LVMH Fashion Group. French designer Alain Paul, who received the special prize, will also receive mentorship from Toledano, in addition to a €100,000 cash prize. Burc Akyol and Sarah Levy were recipients of the Pierre Bergé Prize and Accessories prize, respectively. Both will receive a cash prize of €100,000; Ami Paris' founder Alexandre Mattiussi will help Akyol structure and grow his label, while Longchamp creative director Sophie Delafontaine will work with Levy. The awards were presented at Institut Français de la Mode after Paris Men's Spring/Summer 2026 fashion week came to a close, and before Couture kicks off on July 7. Previous winners of the Andam prize include designer Martin Margiela (who won the first edition in 1989), A.P.C. founder Jean Touitou, and, more recently designers Marine Serre, Louis-Gabriel Nouchi and Australian designer Christopher Esber, who took home the grand prize in 2024. Learn more: Australia's Christopher Esber Wins Andam Grand Prize 2024 Esber, who is known for his sleek, summery eveningwear, will receive a grant of €300,000 to develop his brand as well as a year of mentoring from Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello.

Christopher Esber Resort 2026 Collection
Christopher Esber Resort 2026 Collection

Vogue

time28-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Vogue

Christopher Esber Resort 2026 Collection

In a season brimming with 'reinvented classics,' Christopher Esber said he wanted to bring a little whimsy to his resort collection through draping and sculpting rather than just cutting fabric away. 'This collection is really about fantasy meets function,' the designer said in a Zoom interview from his studio in Sydney. 'In my mind, I kept playing back the idea of escaping, of desert horizons, sunbaked highways and bringing in more textiles and colors that speak to that landscape.' It's been almost 35 years since Thelma & Louise just kept on driving, but for Esber that feminist classic was top of mind. Did that mean he, too, would make a run for it? Definitely not, the designer said. 'I just really connected with that spirit of changing things up and forging your own way.' Part of the process was giving himself the freedom to revisit and refine things that perhaps aren't considered cool anymore, he said, like an aged stripe or a snip of lace encrusted unevenly on a yellow top or inserted on a green dress. The goal was to strike a balance between retro and contemporary aesthetics. An out-of-character garment, for example, can sometimes turn out to be a perfect fit. One can well imagine the mileage fans could get from some of these pieces, like a sporty coffee-colored bomber, a billowy trench with a patterned green lining, or tailored jeans spliced with suede. The designer smartly developed some ensembles that can be either attached as a complete silhouette or worn separately; in that vein, an asymmetrical chocolate top and grape-colored skirt looked strong. Esber has long married various materials in odd-couple ways; this season that included scalloping suede or jersey with lace; transposing python effects into exotic-looking prints and superfine knits; a silver coil on a dress or bag; or a necktie spooled into a halter top. The idea of shredded snakeskin appeared on a georgette dress intricately cut to show some flesh yet 'hit in all the right places,' the designer said. That was one of a few numbers that were definitely for those who dress like they've got nothing to hide. Not every experiment landed, but there were plenty of the kind of sexy, sinuous—and commercial—clothes here to keep Esber's base coming back for more, whether they are hitting the road for real or only in spirit.

Tube Dresses Are Making a Sleek Comeback

Elle

time16-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Elle

Tube Dresses Are Making a Sleek Comeback

Every item on this page was chosen by an ELLE editor. We may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy. In the ever-spinning cycle of fashion, the tube dress has emerged as a standout silhouette for Spring 2025, reclaiming its place as a warm-weather staple. Designers from Christopher Esber to Alaïa revived the body-skimming column shape, offering updated takes that felt both minimalist and impactful. At Staud and Reformation, we saw playful reimagining in candy-colored hues and easygoing knits, while Éterne and Zara leaned into soft jersey and ruched textures for everyday versatility. Part of the appeal? The tube dress aligns with fashion's current return to stripped-down, sensual elegance. It channels the essence of the '90s and early 2000s without feeling overtly nostalgic—especially when done in modern fabrics or bold primary shades. It's also endlessly versatile. Dress it up with sculptural jewelry and platform sandals or wear it barefoot with slicked-back hair for a beachy, off-duty look. Of course, no conversation about tube dresses would be complete without a nod to the Wolford Fatal dress—a one-size-fits-all classic that's graced the bodies of everyone from supermodels to stylists. It's still a wardrobe MVP for good reason. It hugs curves without clinging and can be styled as a skirt, midi, or even a strapless top. Shopping tip: Look for high-stretch blends that won't lose shape over time. Whether you're splurging on a sculptural Alaïa or snagging a Mango or H&M version under $100, the tube dress is this season's most flattering no-brainer.

‘It makes no sense': The young designers pushed off the runway
‘It makes no sense': The young designers pushed off the runway

The Age

time11-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Age

‘It makes no sense': The young designers pushed off the runway

On the television show Project Runway, former host Heidi Klum summed up the challenges of being a fashion designer with the catchphrase: 'One day you are in, the next day you are out.' For the first time in 26 years, the Fashion Design Studio is out of Australian Fashion Week, which begins today. The new operators of AFW, the Australian Fashion Council, delivered the verdict in March, denying the application from TAFE FDS in Sydney, which helped launch homegrown labels Zimmermann, Akira Isogawa and Christopher Esber. 'The AFC made an early decision to do fewer showrooms and focus on a wholesale showcase, meaning student showcases were paused for 2025,' says AFW chief executive Kellie Hush, who added a book launch for Ksubi co-founder Dan Singl e, a dinner party for Vogue and a closing party for Ksubi to the schedule. 'The industry values the work we do, so the decision was surprising,' says Andrea Cainero, co-head of the FDS. 'This has always been a platform for the next guard of designers.' Loading Rather than accept the 'out' verdict, four designers from the FDS program are staging a rogue runway show, hours before the main event launches with the latest Carla Zampatti collection. 'We had to pivot and make sure that the designers are put first,' says co-head Laura Washington. Cainero and Washington called on supporters to organise the last-minute showcase at the Overseas Passenger Terminal at Circular Quay. Turning the other cheek for an air kiss, invitations were extended to Hush and AFC staff to see the work of Eidan Ceilidh, Emily Misaki Hon, Daisy-Rose Cooper and Shiva Yousefpour.

‘It makes no sense': The young designers pushed off the runway
‘It makes no sense': The young designers pushed off the runway

Sydney Morning Herald

time11-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Sydney Morning Herald

‘It makes no sense': The young designers pushed off the runway

On the television show Project Runway, former host Heidi Klum summed up the challenges of being a fashion designer with the catchphrase: 'One day you are in, the next day you are out.' For the first time in 26 years, the Fashion Design Studio is out of Australian Fashion Week, which begins today. The new operators of AFW, the Australian Fashion Council, delivered the verdict in March, denying the application from TAFE FDS in Sydney, which helped launch homegrown labels Zimmermann, Akira Isogawa and Christopher Esber. 'The AFC made an early decision to do fewer showrooms and focus on a wholesale showcase, meaning student showcases were paused for 2025,' says AFW chief executive Kellie Hush, who added a book launch for Ksubi co-founder Dan Singl e, a dinner party for Vogue and a closing party for Ksubi to the schedule. 'The industry values the work we do, so the decision was surprising,' says Andrea Cainero, co-head of the FDS. 'This has always been a platform for the next guard of designers.' Loading Rather than accept the 'out' verdict, four designers from the FDS program are staging a rogue runway show, hours before the main event launches with the latest Carla Zampatti collection. 'We had to pivot and make sure that the designers are put first,' says co-head Laura Washington. Cainero and Washington called on supporters to organise the last-minute showcase at the Overseas Passenger Terminal at Circular Quay. Turning the other cheek for an air kiss, invitations were extended to Hush and AFC staff to see the work of Eidan Ceilidh, Emily Misaki Hon, Daisy-Rose Cooper and Shiva Yousefpour.

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