3 days ago
How Do You Make Biodynamic Wines? And Why Are They Special?
Clay Wesson of Montinore Estate and Hijinio Mejia Rodrigues preparing manure for cow horn burial, an essential biodynamic process. Montinore Estate
Winemaking that adheres to biodynamic principles makes an already difficult, physical and time-consuming process monumentally more challenging. Biodynamic winemaking is a level (or three) beyond organic that relies on everything from applying all-natural compost teas to vines for pest prevention to following the lunar calendar for planting decisions. Clay Wesson, head of viticulture at Montinore Estate, one of the largest biodynamic producers in the country, explains, 'One of the bigger challenges, depending on your scale of farming, is timing of competing tasks that need to be done as well as logistics to pull off all the tasks.' That's a bit of an understatement. Just consider the 'task' list, which includes everything from packing fresh lactating cow manure into cow horns and burying them in the soil for use the following spring to incorporating cover crops and animal husbandry into the viticultural ecosystem. 'There are no shortcuts or quick fixes in biodynamics,' says Mini Byers co-owner of Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden in Applegate Valley Oregon, 'When something goes wrong in the vineyard, we can't just spray a solution and move on. We have to pause, observe, and get to the root of the issue—naturally. That might mean introducing a cover crop, adjusting our compost, or working with a biodynamic preparation.'
One thing you can be sure of regarding biodynamic wine—it's as all-natural as you can get. Many argue that it also impacts taste, giving wines more complexity and vitality. For a bit more depth on the work that goes into this viticultural practice I quizzed Mini and Clay about the challenges and the benefits.
Rudy Marchesi unpacking compost in spring after burial at Montinore Estate й Andrea Johnson Photography
Clay Wesson: One of the bigger challenges, depending on your scale of farming, is timing of competing tasks that need to be done as well as logistics to pull off all the tasks. With more intentionality focused in the vineyard, labor and economics need to be balanced as well with the focus remaining on quality.
Mini Byers: One of the biggest challenges is also one of the biggest gifts: time. Biodynamic farming is both time-consuming and, at times, a little nerve-racking. It asks us to be incredibly present—watching, listening, responding—with no shortcuts or quick fixes. When something goes wrong in the vineyard, we can't just spray a solution and move on. We have to pause, observe, and get to the root of the issue—naturally. That might mean introducing a cover crop, adjusting our compost, or working with a biodynamic preparation. It requires trust, intuition, and a lot of patience. But the reward is a vineyard that's healthy, expressive, and alive.
Clay: The cow horns are a very important part of Biodynamic Farming in that they are utilized to create two important spray preparations: Biodynamic 500 and Biodynamic 501. The 500 is applied to the soil as a stimulative force in the spring in the fall and the Biodynamic 501 is applied in the spring and summer to the vine and air surrounding it to stimulate vital forces in the vine as well as enhance ripening and flavor of the grape.
Mini: One of the most important practices we follow is the creation of BD500. Each fall, we pack fresh lactating cow manure into cow horns and bury them in the soil through the winter, during a time when the earth is 'inhaling' and drawing energy inward. In early spring, we unearth the horns and discover a rich, humus-like compost that's full of microbial life. We then stir it into water in a vortex and apply it to our soil, enhancing root growth, increasing microbial activity, and helping our vines access nutrients in a more natural, balanced way. The cow horn itself is more than a container—it concentrates natural forces and transforms the material inside. Just above the spot where we bury our horns, we built a spiral rock formation, a quiet marker of this sacred, cyclical process. It's why one of our signature wines is called Spiral.
Horns and wine at Montinore Estate Montinore Estate Are you able to discern a difference in taste (biodynamic vs. conventional farming of grapes)?
Mini: We believe you can—though it's not always about what you taste, but how the wine feels. Biodynamically farmed wines tend to carry a certain clarity and energy. They feel more alive in the glass, more rooted in place. You can sense the vitality of the soil and the health of the vineyard in the depth, structure, and texture of the wine. In our Syrah, for example, there's a groundedness, a vibrancy that we believe comes directly from the way we farm—not forcing, but listening.
Clay: I do feel that you can taste a difference at times in the grape as well as wine yet it is important to not allow a personal bias to come in to be objective. I have definitely tasted more interesting wines that are organic and biodynamic wines that I certainly attributed the quality to their practices in the vineyard and cellar. A good friend and consultant friend of mine, Adriano Zago in Italy, has set up blind tasting with not just wine but also other produce grown under different circumstances and points to noticeable differences. It is hard not to be biased to the clean farming practices and attention to detail by the farmers and winemakers to make biodynamic wine so that helps add to the perception and storytelling ability How is it different than organic wine viticulture?
Clay: Biodynamic Farming practices build on good farming in general and you have to be 100% organic prior to pursuing Biodynamic Certification. The standards for biodynamics are placed on top of the already rigorous NOP USDA guidelines. That said a big difference is the dedication of 10% of the land you steward to Biodiversity, reducing or eliminating your inputs from "off your farm" in regards to fertility and crop protection, not allowing parallel production (meaning your entire land must be certified, not individual fields/blocks, incorporation of livestock and animal husbandry into your farm.
Mini: Organic and biodynamic farming share a lot in common—both avoid synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers. But biodynamics goes a step further. It views the farm as a whole living organism, where everything—soil, plants, animals, people, and even cosmic rhythms—are interconnected. Where organics focuses on what not to use, biodynamics focuses on how to nurture. That means we don't just remove the harmful—we actively bring life back into the system using compost preparations, intentional timing, and holistic practices. It's farming that relies as much on intuition as it does on science. And for us at Cowhorn, it's the only way that makes sense—because when the land thrives, the wines do too. Best Biodynamic Wines To Try Now
Montinore Reserve Pinot Noir, 2023: Elegant and silky with polished notes of raspberry and black cherry. The wine has a generous mouthfeel but a lovely savory edge. Focused and complex it's perfect now or with a few years on it. it's also a fabulous deal for Willamette Valley pinot at $45.
Cowhorn GSM 2021: Generous and fresh on the palate with juicy red fruit notes—just absolutely delicious. 49% Syrah / 36% Grenache / 15% Mourvèdre. $45
Johan Vineyards Murmuration, 2021: Lower in alcohol and made biodynamically, this juicy, fruity blend of Cabernet Franc, Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent delivers on flavor despite its lightweight profile. Playful and complex, just a lovely wine to enjoy with friends. $30
Cowhorn Syrah, 2021: This is not your Australian version of syrah, but rather a more elegant, delicate expression of the grape that is more pinot noir-like. Dark raspberry, cherry-strawberry notes mingle with a hint of spice and currant. $55
Folly of Man Estate Pinot Noir 2023: One of the debut wine offerings from winemakers Tracy and Aaron Kendall who are alums of venerated wineries Nicolas-Jay and Beaux Frères Vineyards & Winery. Working with estate vineyard fruit from a compelling site that sits in the midst of the Van Duzer Corridor, the couple makes four wines from their 16-acre site. This one shines with bright- high-toned fruit and structured layers of spice and dried herbs. The vines farmed using regenerative, organic, and biodynamic practices. $100
