3 days ago
Inside the most bizarre seaside village in Britain
All summer we are taking the pulse of Britain's most famous seaside towns, examining the efforts being made to regenerate them, and opining on whether they are still worth visiting. This week, David Atkinson visits Portmeirion.
It's known as 'The Village'.
The pastel-coloured façades and magpie-like collection of buildings provided the psychedelic backdrop to the 1960s TV series The Prisoner, and offered a haven for artists and musicians from the Jazz Age to the Sixties.
The author Noel Coward wrote his comic play Blithe Spirit here in 1941, and The Beatles were regular visitors after their manager took a lease on Gatehouse.
But, most of all, Portmeirion is the creative vision of its founder, the architect Clough Williams-Ellis. He bought a plot of land on the Snowdonia coast in 1925 and devoted his life to his Italianate folly, working with nature to create something unique.
The 'home for fallen buildings' was constructed in two phases until just before his death in 1978, salvaging old edifices from demolition in an early take on upcycling.
Celebrations for Portmeirion's centenary year are now in progress with plans for a 1920s-style house party at Hotel Portmeirion to commemorate the Easter 1926 opening, and a series of open-air concerts to keep alive Clough's desire for the village to bring pleasure to others – as it did to him.
Today, Portmeirion is a staple of North Wales day trips but, despite the coach tours, Clough's words still hold true: 'My main objective, that of architectural and environmental propaganda, is by no means obscured.'
What's it really like?
A trip to Portmeirion is not your typical seaside break – it's more like a Mediterranean resort than the North Wales riviera.
It's a self-contained site with multi-generational appeal for all interests – from pop-culture nerds to kids building sandcastles. It's easy to see it as just pretty buildings, but delving into the stories behind them reveals its quintessential charm.
The statue of Hercules by William Brodie, for example, was rescued by Clough from Aberdeen. He bought the ceiling of the Town Hall, depicting the 12 Labours of Hercules, for £13 at auction before reassembling it.
Seek out elevated views from near The Belvedere, where Jerry Lee Lewis stayed when he played at Butlins, Pwllheli, in 1974, and from the podium under Chantry Cottage, first designed as a studio for the artist Augustus John.
The village's fairy-tale feel made it ideal for filming The Prisoner in the late Sixties, just in time for colour TV. Catherine McGoohan, daughter of the programme's star, Patrick, recently unveiled a bronze statue of her father close to The Prisoner Shop, with its T-shirts bearing the slogan: 'I am not a number, I am a free man.' Portmeirion also hosts the annual Prisoner Convention each April.
The wider region, too, has plenty to offer, with beach combing and coastal strolling at nearby Harlech and Borth-y-Gest. Nearby Porthmadog is home to Shop Fawr which, founded by Clough's daughter, Susan Williams-Ellis, sells a range of homeware and Portmeirion pottery. Look out, too, for the Purple Moose Brewery shop, selling craft ales from the local microbrewery.
What's not to like?
Portmeirion can get very busy during high season – but you can avoid the crowds. Swerve the coach parties by visiting outside of the peak hours, or book lunch at Castell Deudraeth for free entry to the village after 12.30pm. Better still, stay overnight and you'll have the village to yourself for a pre-breakfast stroll, or a post-dinner game of human chess, recreating The Prisoner episode Checkmate.
Do this…
While most visitors congregate in the village, fewer strike out into The Gwyllt (Wildwood), with its 70 acres of woodlands of exotic species brought to North Wales by Victorian plant hunters.
Explore the Japanese Garden with its pagoda and lily-covered lake, or the Dog Cemetery, where Adelaide Haig, the reclusive former owner of the old manor house reborn by Clough as Hotel Portmeirion, buried her beloved pets. The latest addition is the Peace Statue, a tribute to the spiritual leader Sri Chinmoy – hold the torch and wish for peace.
Alternatively, walk the coastal path beyond Hotel Portmeirion, hugging the estuary before dropping down to an oft-deserted beach with secluded coves. If you're paddling then watch out for jellyfish, and keep an eye on the tide times displayed on site. Finally, if you're staying over, you'll have private access to the heated, outdoor swimming pool (April to September) and to channel 801 in your hotel room, a constant loop of all 17 episodes of The Prisoner.
Eat this…
Expect formal dining at both hotels, plus casual daytime options throughout the village. Deudraeth's Brasserie is more casual (two/three courses, £30/35) while Hotel Portmeirion has a table d'hote menu (£68/75), plus a six-course gourmet menu (£100), as well as afternoon teas.
Pre-dinner drinks on the terrace showcase the coastal view across the Dwyryd estuary to the deserted island of Ynys Gifftan, a gift from Queen Anne to Lord Harlech. The pick of the café-style lunches is Caffi'r Ddraig for street food; Caffi'r Angel has gelato and espresso.
But don't do this…
The magic of Portmeirion is best enjoyed in the sunshine. If grey-slate Snowdonia skies dominate, then you'll be more confined to the village itself for shelter. It's worth checking out the soundscape in Town Hall, whereby Clough talks about his ideas for the village, or simply reschedule for a sunny day.
From a local
Robin Llywelyn, grandson of founder Clough Williams-Ellis: 'As children, my sister Menna and I would play in the woods and go for picnics on the beach. These days, my role is caretaker.
My grandfather would be surprised to reach the centenary but gratified to find the village is still relevant today, inspiring different people in different ways. His spirit lives on around us.'
From a tourist
Emily (daughter) and Karen (mother) Roberts from Sheffield: 'This is our first visit to Portmeirion and we didn't really know what to expect.
We're on holiday nearby at Barmouth and came for a day out. It's a quirky place and gives me The Truman Show vibes.'
Linda Johnson from Wrexham: 'I've been coming to Portmeirion since the 1970s, and once bumped into Clough just walking around the village. For me, it's a little paradise. A place of peace.'
Lisa Johnson, Linda's daughter: 'I've been coming here since I was a child with my mum and now my partner, Andy. There's a sense of nostalgia about return visits. My advice is to stay overnight. The whole village settles down once the crowds have gone.'
Get there
Entry to Portmeirion costs £20 for adults. There are mainline rail services to Llandudno Junction or Bangor from London Euston with onward connections by taxi (50 mins).
The closest station is Minffordd (walking distance) on the Cambrian Coast Line with onward connections to Shrewsbury and Birmingham. Travel by car to explore the wider Snowdonia coast; the nearest town is Porthmadog on the A487.
Stay here
There are two hotels in the village – Art Deco-styled Hotel Portmeirion (14 rooms) and Castell Deudraeth (12 rooms), plus 35 village apartments (with use of hotel facilities).
