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Indian Express
6 days ago
- General
- Indian Express
A boat, a legacy: A scrap dealer's tribute to Robert Bristow, the architect of modern Cochin port
The warm scent of teak wood and Fevicol greets visitors at a boatyard on the banks of the Vembanad Lake. Beneath a teal tarpaulin, two men work diligently on a weathered wooden boat, predominantly brown with patches of flaking polish. Surrounded by scaffolding and wooden supports, the vessel wears a modest sign at its bow: ML Vasco. But this is no ordinary restoration, and ML Vasco is no ordinary boat. More than 105 years old, it is the boat that once ferried British harbour engineer Sir Robert Bristow — widely acknowledged as the architect of the modern port in Kochi — after he landed in Kochi in 1920. Seethi Sajar, a scrap dealer based in Thoppumpady, secured it in an auction held by the Cochin Port Trust in 2010 for Rs 2 lakh, only to realise its historical significance later. 'It was only after a Port Trust official told me that this was the boat used by Robert Bristow that I knew of the value of my possession. It was then that I decided I would not dismantle the boat but keep it for future generations to witness and understand his contributions.' Bristow arrived in Kochi in April 1920 at the age of 39, under the direction of the then Governor of Madras, Lord Willingdon. Waiting for him at the waterfront was ML Vasco, which would become his constant companion during his mission to modernise the Cochin Port. Though the port had been a major trading hub even before Bristow's arrival, its expansion was hampered by the lack of a safe inner harbour for ships. 'The Cochin Port was a natural port, attracting Portuguese, Arabs, Jews, Dutch, and British at different periods. Over the centuries, shipping technology underwent significant changes. Sailing ships gave way to steamships. However, huge ships could not come close to the Cochin Port due to a natural sandbar, and cargo loading and unloading were being done using small boats,' says Bony Thomas, nodal officer of Cochin Heritage Zone Conservation Society. In 1926, Bristow brought a dredger, named 'Lord Willingdon', from Scotland to remove the sand and silt that prevented the entry of large ships at the port. Two years later, on May 26, 1928, a steamship, SS Padma, entered the inner harbour of the modernised Cochin Port, officially opening it to the world. This event is commemorated annually as the Cochin Port Day. But Bristow didn't stop here. He used the mud and materials dredged from the sea during the modernisation of the port to create Willingdon Island, the largest artificial island in India. He filled the area around Veduruthy Island, a pre-existing small natural island, to carve out Willingdon Island in a sprawling area of 775 acres. He owned the first building on the new island. 'He later connected this human-made island to the mainland of Ernakulam through the Venduruthy bridge. He also connected the island and the mainland area of Thoppumpady through the Old Harbour Bridge, which was called the London Bridge of Kochi. It was an architectural marvel as its middle portion could be lifted to allow ships to pass through,' says Thomas. In his book Cochin Saga, Bristow wrote how he marvelled at the scope of the Cochin Port when he touched down in 1920 and took the first trip on Vasco. 'It seemed all the blue lagoons of the southern seas had come to rest in the wide bosom of Mother India at Cochin, for each side there stretched an interminable vista fading only into the sky itself.' Over the next two decades, he transformed Kochi's landscape as the 'interminable vista' evolved into a bustling port city, complete with wharfs, cranes, roads, and bridges. He oversaw the extension of the rail line from the old railway station in Ernakulam to Willingdon Island and the establishment of Harbour Terminus railway station on the island in 1932, mainly for freight movement. Talking to the BBC in 1935, a proud Bristow said: 'I live on a large island made from the bottom of the sea. It is called Willingdon Island, after the present Viceroy of India. From the upper floor of my house, I look down on the finest harbour in the East.' Bristow also played a key role in building a civilian airstrip on Willingdon Island in 1936, which later proved to be a crucial aircraft repair yard for the British during World War II. In 1953, the facility was commissioned as INS Garuda, the oldest operating air station of the Indian Navy. Apart from his engineering laurels, Bristow, along with his wife, Gertrude, is credited with founding the inter-racial Lotus Club in Kochi. 'The Cochin Club in Fort Kochi allowed only fully British people. Gertrude had Belgian Jewish ancestry, making her ineligible. The couple opened Lotus Club to people from all races and backgrounds, almost like a statement to the British Raj,' says Stephen Robert, a Kochi-based heritage activist. Bristow returned to England in 1941 and passed away in 1966 at the age of 85. ML Vasco is unlike any modern vessel. Twenty-six feet long, six feet wide, and seven feet tall, with a two-cylinder diesel engine, it can accommodate 10 to 12 people. Built entirely from wood and copper, and without the use of iron, it has not rusted even after all these years. For its restoration, Sajar sought craftsmen skilled in repairing wooden boats. His search eventually led him to Jaison and Janappan from Mulvakukad in Kochi. The two men are as enthusiastic as Sajar about the restoration efforts. 'We had heard about Bristow sayippu (a loosely used colloquial term in Malayalam for people of Caucasian descent) and it is a great privilege for us to now work on his boat,' says Jaison, adding that the instruction from Sajar has been to stay true to the original design. The boat has two cabins separated by a central deck. A wooden ladder connects the central deck to the front cabin, which features two large oval windows on each side. The two men plan to install glass panes in these windows. The rear cabin has rectangular wooden panels and serves as the main seating area. The windows in the back cabin are rectangular and much smaller compared to those in the front cabin. They have reattached the loose steering wheel and plan to replace the engine cover. What lies ahead for them is the not-so-easy task of lifting the boat and replacing the missing wooden planks on the bottom. Sajar estimates the cost for the restoration work, which began over four months ago, to be around Rs 10 lakh. For now, ML Vasco remains at a rented yard in Karuvelippady. But Sajar has bigger plans: once restored, the boat will be mounted on trolleys and transported to a three-acre plot nearby, which he bought recently. He intends to display Vasco in a fibre enclosure and unveil it during Onam.
The Hindu
01-07-2025
- General
- The Hindu
A historic boat sold as scrap being restored in Kochi
Seethi Sajar, 52, a scrap dealer from Thoppumpady, was in for a surprise when he turned up at the Cochin Port Trust, since then renamed as Cochin Port Authority (CoPA), to take delivery of a chunk of scrap he bought in an auction in 2010. When he spotted an archaic wooden boat, valued at around ₹2 lakh, among the materials, he thought little of it. Only when a senior port officer told him that it was the boat used by the late British harbour engineer Sir Robert Charles Bristow who founded the Willingdon Island did he realise its historical significance. 'It was thrilling to even think that I was in possession of the boat used by a historical figure like Bristow Sayippu (foreigner). Since my yard at Karuvelippady didn't have the facilities to restore the boat at that time, I kept it fully wrapped protecting it from rain, sun, and dust,' said Mr. Sajar, who has been in the scrap business and ship dismantling business for the last 35 years. He started the restoration of the boat, which is fully made in teak, three months ago. He was fortunate to find two veteran boat maintenance workers with experience of having handled similar traditional boats in wood in Ponjikkara in Ernakulam district. They have been working on the boat since then. Historic significance 'We have been careful not to tinker with its original structure and design considering its historic significance. The focus is more on restoring it to its old glory rather than renovating. Missing wooden planks are being replaced, some nails are being tightened, steering wheel that has fallen off has been put back, and the engine cover is being replaced. The engine is still in good condition and it will be given a fresh coat of polish,' said Mr. Sajar who claims to have spend around ₹10 lakh for restoration so far. He remains hopeful of wrapping up the works by August in time for Onam. The boat will be then showcased for the public. Mr. Sajar has bought a 3 acre plot at Karuvelippady where he plans to construct a fibre glass enclosure for displaying the boat. Bony Thomas, a journalist, cartoonist and historian, slammed the sale of such a historical object as mere scrap. Bristow is credited with putting Kochi on the global map, found India's biggest man-made island, modernised the Kochi port and built bridges for improved connectivity. 'A scrap dealer showed better sense than the port authorities. Here was a boat, Bristow had used extensively since his arrival in 1920. The boat has been mentioned at three places in his renowned book Cochin Saga. To sell it as mere scrap is height of ignorance,' said Mr. Thomas.
India.com
04-05-2025
- India.com
India's smallest train runs twice daily, covers this much distance in 40 minutes, number of coaches are..., it starts from...
India's Smallest Train: Indian Railways is known worldwide for its vast rail network and diverse trains. Whether it's long-distance express trains or local passenger trains, rail services are available for every need. But have you ever heard that there is a train in India that operates with just three coaches? Let's learn about the unique features of this train. Smallest train in India India's smallest train is a DEMU (Diesel Electric Multiple Unit) service, known for its short length and limited distance. It covers only 9 kilometers and takes about 40 minutes for the entire journey. Where does this unique train operate? The smallest train in India operates from Kochi Harbour Terminus to Ernakulam Junction in the state of Kerala. It stops at just one station along the way. The route of this train passes along the coast, providing passengers with the experience of natural beauty and tranquility. This train runs only twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. This timing is particularly useful for local commuters who travel daily on this short route. It connects the Cochin Port Trust and the Southern Naval Command to the heart of Kochi. This train has seating arrangements for about 300 passengers in three coaches. Each coach is equipped with comfortable seats that offer passengers a short but relaxing journey. Reports suggest that less than 30 tickets are sold daily for this train. Considering the very low number of passengers, the railway department might consider shutting it down. However, its unique route and mini structure keep it in discussions. This train service is more than just a mode of transport, it's a charming and memorable journey for those who travel on it. Will the country's shortest and unique train continue? Only time will tell!
