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The Guardian
17-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
‘Our food, our heritage, our culture': the chef highlighting Palestinian cuisine
Food is both deeply personal and political for Sami Tamimi, the Palestinian chef and food writer, whose first solo cookbook is an emotional culinary ride down memory lane through the bountiful seasons of his homeland – and an effort to preserve the ingredients, techniques and traditions which have long been targeted by the Israeli occupation. Boustany: A Celebration of Vegetables from My Palestine is a masterclass on how less is so often more when it comes to creating food that connects with people and how the joy derived from cooking and sharing food can, in itself, be an act of resistance. 'As a chef and writer this is a political act, a way to show young Palestinians who weren't born there the deep emotional connection we have to the land, to the food of our land, and how Palestine used to be,' Tamimi said. 'This is me being resilient as a Palestinian but also recognizing that I am privileged to have a voice and talking about our food is a way of keeping it alive.' Each recipe – from tahini, halva and coffee brownies to green kishk (fermented yoghurt and bulgar) and Gazan dukkah (a spice mix for dipping) – speaks to how much Palestinians love to forage, cook, preserve and eat food. It's a core part of the culture and heritage that Tamimi hopes will help broaden the world's understanding of what it means to be Palestinian. 'Our dishes are being claimed by some Israeli chefs and so many native ingredients – lentils and sesame and greens – that I remember foraging for with my family are starting to disappear as access to our land shrinks. But this is our food, this is our history, our culture. You can't take my memories away from me. You can't tell me that this is not my land,' said Tamimi. Tamimi was born and raised in the Old City of Jerusalem, and grew up foraging in the surrounding hills with his parents for herbs, berries and greens – ingredients his mother would then use to create honest, simple dishes that were mostly vegetarian. After a long stint as head chef at Lilith, a fine dining establishment in Tel Aviv, Tamimi moved to London in 1997 at the age of 29 to work at Baker & Spice, where Yotam Ottolenghi, then a young pastry chef who grew up in the Jewish part of the Old City, also landed. The pair went on to create a hugely successful culinary enterprise including several restaurants in central London and together co-wrote the bestselling cookbooks Ottolenghi (2008) and Jerusalem (2012). In 2020, Tamimi co-wrote Falastin (2020), a love letter to Palestine's ancient, diverse culinary traditions – and the people who have preserved the food amid unbearable losses. He rediscovered a passion for foraging in Umbria, Italy, which has a similar climate to Palestine, and began re-creating dishes from his homeland to stave off homesickness during the Covid pandemic. This helped sow the seed for Boustany, which means 'my garden' in Arabic, that is steeped in childhood memories of staying at his grandparents' home in Hebron in the southern West Bank, where the garden they tended with love delivered a bounty of fruits and vegetables each season. 'The majority of our cuisine is based on vegetables, grains and pulses, and for me the whole process of cooking vegetarian food connects me back to the environment, to the land, to simple dishes – that could be just a bit of chard with some mackerel and a bit of onion and garlic,' he said. 'It's simple, not gimmicky, but really flavorsome and colorful and brings comfort because it connects me back to my family, to my heritage and all those beautiful memories. It was going to be a vegan cookbook but I couldn't give up on cheese and eggs – especially for making sweets.' The 70-year-plus Israeli occupation and expansion into Palestinian territories has severely restricted access to land, and foraging some native plants is actually banned by the Israeli state for Palestinians, while it fills the market with cheap Israeli alternatives. Olive trees, central to Palestinian identity, are frequently burned and chopped down by Israeli settlers in the West Bank; irrigation systems and wells are contaminated and destroyed; and for years fishers in Gaza have been denied access to Palestinian waters – and targeted with violence. Preservation is an arc of this book, a deliberate though unsaid theme at a time when Palestinian food, land and culture are under unprecedented assault. This includes a pantry, or mooneh, chapter, a unique concept to Middle Eastern cooking, especially Palestinian and Levantine cuisine. Mooneh involves preserving (pickling, freezing, fermenting and bottling) seasonal products such as nuts, herbs, fruits, pulses and vegetables so they can be enjoyed throughout the year. But the book also looks forward, with new twists to traditional recipes inspired by Tamimi's travels and evolution as chef over the past four decades. 'For me it's more important to take the essence of a traditional dish and build on it, by adding the layers and the texture,' he said. 'But you shouldn't play with the dish too much to ruin it.' Tamimi was in the final stretch of writing Boustany when Israel launched its unprecedented and relentless military assault on Gaza – in retaliation for Hamas's attack on 7 October 2023. Israel has since razed the tiny territory, targeting the farmland, forests, olive orchards and greenhouses to stop Gazans from producing their own food while blocking humanitarian supplies – which together has put 2 million Palestinians on the brink of starvation. Last month, a French historian who made it into the territory to document the horrors hidden from foreign journalists reported that he saw starving children sharing bits of food with scrawny stray cats. 'Palestinian people are full of life, they always want to make you welcome and will push food on your plate just to make sure that you are well fed, happy and comfortable,' Tamimi said. 'It's horrendous for people that always celebrated life and food and seasonality and feeding people to be stripped from all of that, and for it to be used as a weapon against them.' Palestinian recipes always have a local spin. For example, the cuisine in Gaza was uniquely influenced by its proximity to Egypt, so dishes are spicier, and the falafel is often made with fava beans instead of just chickpeas. Gaza's version of knafeh – a popular dessert that combines crispy pastry, sweet cheese and fragrant syrup – includes walnuts and sometimes bulgar or couscous. The seafood enjoyed in Gaza before Israel's total siege – such as crab and squid – are hard to find in other parts of Palestine, and the strawberries there are the sweetest, said Tamimi. 'There is another side to Palestinians that I want to show in the book. They want to eat and enjoy life, they want to live life to the max. Through food and these dishes I can connect with people who want to know more about Palestine and Palestinian culture. If there is something positive, with all the horrible stuff happening now, it is that it has opened people's eyes.' Boustany by Sami Tamimi (Ebury Publishing, £30). To support the Guardian, order your copy at Delivery charges may apply.
The Guardian
16-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
‘Our food, our heritage, our culture': the chef highlighting Palestinian cuisine
Food is both deeply personal and political for Sami Tamimi, the Palestinian chef and food writer, whose first solo cookbook is an emotional culinary ride down memory lane through the bountiful seasons of his homeland – and an effort to preserve the ingredients, techniques and traditions which have long been targeted by the Israeli occupation. Boustany: A Celebration of Vegetables from My Palestine is a masterclass on how less is so often more when it comes to creating food that connects with people and how the joy derived from cooking and sharing food can, in itself, be an act of resistance. 'As a chef and writer this is a political act, a way to show young Palestinians who weren't born there the deep emotional connection we have to the land, to the food of our land, and how Palestine used to be,' Tamimi said. 'This is me being resilient as a Palestinian but also recognizing that I am privileged to have a voice and talking about our food is a way of keeping it alive.' Each recipe – from tahini, halva and coffee brownies to green kishk (fermented yoghurt and bulgar) and Gazan dukkah (a spice mix for dipping) - speaks to how much Palestinians love to forage, cook, preserve, host and eat food. It's a core part of the culture and heritage that Tamimi hopes to help broaden the world's understanding of. 'Our dishes are being claimed by some Israeli chefs and so many native ingredients – lentils and sesame and greens – that I remember foraging for with my family are starting to disappear as access to our land shrinks. But this is our food, this is our history, our culture. You can't take my memories away from me. You can't tell me that this is not my land,' said Tamimi. Tamimi was born and raised in the Old City of Jerusalem, and grew up foraging in the surrounding hills with his parents for herbs, berries and greens – ingredients his mother would then use to create honest, simple dishes that were mostly vegetarian. After a long stint as head chef at Lilith, a fine dining establishment in Tel Aviv, Samimi moved to London in 1997 at the age of 29 to work at Baker & Spice, where Yotam Ottolenghi, then a young pastry chef who grew up in the Jewish part of the Old City, also landed. The pair went on to create a hugely successful culinary enterprise including several restaurants in central London and together co-wrote the bestselling cookbooks Ottolenghi (2008) and Jerusalem (2012). In 2020, Tamimi co-wrote Falastin (2020), a love letter to Palestine's ancient, diverse culinary traditions – and the people who have preserved the food amid unbearable losses. He rediscovered a passion for foraging in Umbria, Italy, which has a similar climate to Palestine, and began recreating dishes from his homeland to stave off homesickness during the Covid pandemic. This helped sow the seed for Boustany, which means 'my garden' in Arabic, that is steeped in childhood memories of staying at his grandparents' home in Hebron in the southern West Bank, where the garden they tended with love delivered a bounty of fruits and vegetables each season. 'The majority of our cuisine is based on vegetables, grains and pulses, and for me the whole process of cooking vegetarian food connects me back to the environment, to the land, to simple dishes – that could be just a bit of chard with some mackerel and a bit of onion and garlic,' he said. 'It's simple, not gimmicky, but really flavorsome and colorful and brings comfort because it connects me back to my family, to my heritage and all those beautiful memories. It was going to be a vegan cookbook but I couldn't give up on cheese and eggs – especially for making sweets.' The 70-year plus Israeli occupation and expansion into Palestinian territories has severely restricted access to land, and foraging some native plants is actually banned by the Israeli state for Palestinians, while it fills the market with cheap Israeli alternatives. Olive trees, central to Palestinian identity, are frequently burnt and chopped down by Israeli settlers in the West Bank; irrigation systems and wells are contaminated and destroyed; and for years fishermen in Gaza have been denied access to Palestinian waters – and targeted with violence. Preservation is an arc of this book, a deliberate though unsaid theme at a time when Palestinian food, land and culture are under unprecedented assault. This includes a pantry, or mooneh, chapter, a unique concept to Middle Eastern cooking, especially Palestinian and Levantine cuisine. Mooneh involves preserving (pickling, freezing, fermenting and bottling) seasonal products such as nuts, herbs, fruits, pulses and vegetables so they can be enjoyed throughout the year. But the book also looks forward, with new twists to traditional recipes inspired by Tamimi's travels and evolution as chef over the past four decades. 'For me it's more important to take the essence of a traditional dish and build on it, by adding the layers and the texture,' he said. 'But you shouldn't play with the dish too much to ruin it.' Tamimi was in the final stretch of writing Boustany when Israel launched its unprecedented and relentless military assault on Gaza – in retaliation for Hamas' attack on 7 October 2023. Israel has since razed the tiny territory, targeting the farmland, forests, olive orchards and greenhouses to stop Gazans from producing their own food while blocking humanitarian supplies – which together has put 2 million Palestinians on the brink of starvation. Last month, a French historian who made it into the territory to document the horrors hidden from foreign journalists reported that he saw starving children sharing bits of food with scrawny stray cats. 'Palestinian people are full of life, they always want to make you welcome and will push food on your plate just to make sure that you are well fed, happy and comfortable,' Tamimi said. 'It's horrendous for people that always celebrated life and food and seasonality and feeding people to be stripped from all of that, and for it to be used as a weapon against them.' Palestinian recipes always have a local spin. For example, the cuisine in Gaza was uniquely influenced by its proximity to Egypt, so dishes are spicier, and the falafel is often made with fava beans instead of just chickpeas. Gaza's version of knafeh – a popular dessert that combines crispy pastry, sweet cheese and fragrant syrup – includes walnuts and sometimes bulgar or couscous. The seafood enjoyed in Gaza before Israel's total siege – like crab and squid – are hard to find in other parts of Palestine, and the strawberries there are the sweetest, said Tamimi. 'There is another side to Palestinians that I want to show in the book. They want to eat and enjoy life, they want to live life to the max. Through food and these dishes I can connect with people who want to know more about Palestine and Palestinian culture. If there is something positive, with all the horrible stuff happening now, it is that it has opened people's eyes.' Boustany: A Celebration of Vegetables from My Palestine, is available in the US and UK through Penguin Random House
CBC
06-07-2025
- General
- CBC
Matira curry: A sweet and spicy watermelon dish with summertime roots
Of course, there's no bad time of year to make a curry like this, but what better time than when watermelons abound? As Asma Khan notes in her cookbook, Monsoon: Delicious Indian Recipes for Every Day and Season, matira curry is a sweet and spicy dish with roots in the summers of Rajasthan in northwestern India. Plus it's a straightforward recipe, which delivers a lot of flavour with little effort — another reason to reach for it on the longest of days. The following has been reprinted, with permission, from Monsoon: Delicious Indian Recipes for Every Day and Season. Matira Curry (Red Watermelon Curry) By Asma Khan If you can add feta to watermelons and make a salad, you can add chillies and make this quintessentially Rajasthani dish. In an arid and parched land, the people living in the desert of Rajasthan found ways to survive the harsh summer months where very little vegetation grew. The matira curry was a clever way to use the one ingredient that was locally available in abundance–watermelon. My father's family originally came from Rajasthan and I remember my great grandmother telling me that the hotter the dry, scorching wind blew in the desert, the sweeter the watermelons got! The dish has a sweet and spicy flavour. It can be served as part of a barbecue menu and is a great accompaniment to any meal. Ingredients 4 tbsp vegetable oil ½ tsp cumin seeds 4 dried whole chillies (medium heat), broken in half 4-cm (1½-in) fresh root ginger, finely grated ½ tsp ground turmeric 150g (5½oz) watermelon, juiced; plus 600–750g (1lb 5oz–1lb 10oz), cubed 1½ tsp salt 2 tsp sugar (any type) 4 tbsp lime juice fresh mint, to garnish optional Preparation Warm the oil in a karai or wok over a medium heat. Add the cumin seeds, then the broken chillies followed by the grated ginger and turmeric. Immediately add the watermelon juice and stir. Add the salt and sugar, then bring to a low rolling boil. When the juice has reduced by a third, add the watermelon cubes and cook for 4–5 minutes. Stir well, then taste and adjust the seasoning, adding lime juice for acidity. If you like, you can serve the curry garnished with fresh mint (this would not have been available in summer in Rajasthan, but I like the combination of mint and watermelon).
SBS Australia
04-07-2025
- Entertainment
- SBS Australia
Meet the Indigenous chef stirring change in Australia's $80 million native food industry
Standing at a small outdoor grill in Brisbane, Koori chef Chris Jordan is showing a group of trainees how to smoke sea mullet. It's all part of his broader purpose 'Really important to pass down this knowledge to a younger generation, especially working in the food industry as there isn't much of a representation of First Nations chefs using First Nations food.' Watching on, 19-year-old apprentice Kaylee Rose Tsoumbris Davies 'It makes me feel connected. It is just a really nice feeling to get to know something that I didn't know my whole life growing up, that was a big struggle for me.' For Mr Jordan, passing on knowledge is very personal. Growing up in Northern NSW, he learned little about his Aboriginal heritage or his connections to Kamilaroi country. 'Speaking to my grandmother, they were told if anyone asks 'tell someone that you're Italian'. And there was a lot of shame in the family. It is amazing in my lifetime to see that shift and my family, my extended family, um be proud of who they are.' Family means a lot to Mr Jordan, who named his catering business in memory of his father Joseph … a refugee from former-Yugoslavia, who died when he was a baby. 'I don't have any memories of him at all. And that's part of the reason why I named my business Three Little Birds was his favourite song by Bob Marley as a message of positivity in our family.' After a stint in London, Mr Jordan returned to Australia in 2017, determined to learn about his heritage. And he found an Aboriginal mentor who changed his life forever. 'The biggest part for me getting sober was meeting Auntie Dale. She has been in the bush food industry for 35 years now. She's an amazing chef, an amazing educator.' Born at Dirranbandi (Deer-an-bandy) in south-west Queensland Aunty Dale Chapman is well known for cooking with native foods. She is pleased to have supported Mr Jordan's progress. 'I'm extremely proud! He's taken Australian native ingredients to another level, and being able to share it with the young people is so important because they are ultimately our future.' For Mr Jordan, securing the future also means sourcing sustainable bush foods and supporting Indigenous growers. Australia's bush food industry is valued at more than 80 million dollars annually, according to Sydney University research. Yet few of the profits go back to Indigenous growers. 'Less than 3% of the Bush food industry is Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander owned, and I think that really needs to shift. Making sure that the money goes back to community and we've collaborated with a lot of different restaurants and cafes.' One supplier is the Food Connect Shed in Brisbane -a community-owned hub focusing on sustainable food systems. Its CEO is Robert Pekin ( PRON Peekin). 'it's owned by 540 odd people. Most of them are locals. One of our big long-term objectives is we need to get First Nations food into our diets in a mainstream way.' Teaching respect for native ingredients and their traditional uses is also a growing focus at universities across the country. Dr Frances Wyld teaches Aboriginal Studies at the University of South Australia. 'They are the foods that have sustained Aboriginal people for 60,000 years. They also require less care, such as more water, more pesticides, because they belong here, they grow here.' It's information that Mr Jordan shares in school classrooms and at cooking workshops in juvenile detention. He also supports young people who've had contact with the justice system. 'A huge percentage of our First Nations youth are incarcerated. It's really important to have that connection to culture and have the opportunity for employment. For me personally, leaving home at a young age and going down a path where I ended up having to get sober and really clean my life up, introducing native ingredients really helped me. Yeah it's really, really powerful.' Whether showcasing bush foods to the public or teaching young trainees, for Mr Jordan it's about inspiring change beyond the plate. 'So, passing it down through food and sharing my experience and how it saved my life, I think it's a really strong message.'
Globe and Mail
30-06-2025
- Business
- Globe and Mail
Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile Named Among Best Restaurants in Austin for Steakhouse, Southern Cuisine, and Brunch
Popular Austin Restaurant Continues to Earn Attention for Farm-to-Table Dining, Highlighting Austin's Culinary Heritage Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile has established itself prominently among the best restaurants in Austin, recognized consistently by both culinary enthusiasts and local residents. Located in East Austin and renowned for its Southern-inspired culinary offerings, Jacoby's continues to evoke widespread praise for quality farm-to-table dishes that emphasize fresh, sustainable, and locally sourced ingredients. Embracing the region's deep-rooted culinary heritage, Jacoby's continues to draw significant attention for its culinary offerings. Renowned for authentic Texas cuisine and artisanal cooking techniques, the restaurant represents a unique culinary destination within Austin's vibrant dining landscape. Visitors to the restaurant enjoy selections created from quality ingredients sourced directly from the restaurant's dedicated ranching operations, setting it apart among restaurants in Austin, TX. At Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile, the dining menu is specifically curated to showcase the best of Texas beef, produced by Jacoby's family-owned ranching operations. Each steak served reflects careful attention to cut, quality, and preparation. Jacoby's Steak Frites and the classic Ribeye, along with distinctive house sauces and seasonally inspired side dishes, contribute significantly to its reputation as a leading steakhouse restaurant in Austin. Highlighting Southern cuisine traditions with a contemporary touch, Jacoby's offers specialties such as shrimp and grits, chicken fried steak, and fresh produce-driven salads and appetizers. The Southern-inspired dishes remain consistently popular with both visitors and local patrons, positioning Jacoby's prominently among prominent restaurants in Austin, TX noted for authentic and regionally representative menus. As brunch continues to trend as a significant weekend ritual among city residents, Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile maintains a commitment to delivering an outstanding brunch service. Guests frequently enjoy signature dishes such as biscuits and gravy, breakfast brisket sandwiches, and the highly acclaimed deviled eggs. Weekend brunch menus further accentuate seasonal ingredients from Texas growers and producers, reinforcing the restaurant's dedication to locally driven culinary experiences. Jacoby's has thoughtfully designed its dining space, reflecting both Southern and contemporary influences. Diners experience meals within a warmly inviting setting overlooking the Colorado River, enhancing the dining experience significantly. The lush grounds and comfortable outdoor seating areas make it ideal for private events, family gatherings, or community celebrations, further solidifying the venue as an exceptional restaurant in Austin for both tourists and locals. Besides their dedication to food directly sourced from Jacoby Ranch, sustainability initiatives play a crucial role in Jacoby's daily operations. The restaurant aligns itself consistently with sustainable practices such as minimizing food waste, utilizing environmentally conscious products, and favoring responsibly sourced ingredients. Such initiatives align Jacoby's with broader consumer trends prioritizing ecological stewardship and sustainable dining, bolstering the restaurant's strong standing among discerning Austin patrons. In addition to the restaurant, the adjoining Mercantile complements Jacoby's original dining experience. Visitors to the restaurant discover an artfully curated selection of artisan goods, locally produced items, and distinctive gift selections, showcasing Austin's thriving creative culture. The Mercantile also connects regional artisans and producers to the diverse community of consumers who support Austin's small businesses, positioning Jacoby's as a multifaceted local dining and shopping destination. Public and private events hosted at Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile frequently commemorate local heritage, culinary innovation, and the community-centric environment championed by the restaurant. Residents regularly explore an active events calendar that emphasizes appreciation for Austin's rich culinary traditions and cultural activities, further building Jacoby's presence among visitors and residents alike. Guests may conveniently explore upcoming gatherings by visiting Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile events page. Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile continues delivering culinary excellence and remains firmly positioned as a significant contributor among noted restaurants in Austin, TX. Its continued emphasis on quality ingredients, sustainable practices, and dedication to community engagement confirms Jacoby's as a valuable component of Austin's celebrated food culture. About Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile is located on East Cesar Chavez Street in Austin, Texas, known for its Southern-focused culinary offerings and farm-to-table dining experience. Jacoby's Ranch, operated by the Jacoby family, provides high-quality, sustainable beef to the restaurant, ensuring meticulous control of the dining experience from farm to table. The restaurant serves lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch, in addition to offering curated artisan goods within the connected Mercantile space. Jacoby's offers private dining, event hosting, and regularly updated culinary programs that showcase seasonal ingredients and regional traditions. To explore more about hosting private dining or community celebrations, please visit their events page at Media Contact Company Name: Jacoby's Restaurant & Mercantile Contact Person: Adam Email: Send Email Address: 3235 East Cesar Chavez Street City: Austin State: Texas Country: United States Website:
