04-07-2025
A gentle five-mile trail around Killerton Park in Devon
It was the first wet day in weeks as we set out to explore Killerton Park. We'd managed to find a break in the rain, but ragged grey clouds still peppered a blue sky, sunlight piercing through, air heady with petrichor. At the chapel, a grade I listed building built for Sir Thomas Dyke Acland in 1841, a bridleway swung off the road and into the estate.
Home to the Acland family for 300 years, Killerton's distinctive peach-painted, wisteria-draped house and formal gardens — a mix of Tudor, Georgian and Victorian influences — are now part of the National Trust. But the wider woods and parkland, which is home to 1,500 veteran and ancient trees, is open access, free to wander on a sprawling network of paths.
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We walked through Deer Park and Back Park, verdant vales dotted with oaks, some more than 600 years old. The still air rang with birdsong: blackbirds, thrushes, robins and wrens giving forth with heart-wrenching generosity. From the 15th-century Ellerhayes Bridge, a former carriage drive led up through Park Wood, tracing the course of the River Culm through its wide valley.
The longest tributary of the River Exe, the Culm — whose name means 'knots' or 'ties' due to its meandering course — flows through floodplains north of Killerton before joining the Exe. Part of a nature recovery scheme since 2021, new scrapes and ditches provide habitat while gentle longhorn cattle graze the scrub. Nature is returning rapidly and, as we made our way along the leafy fringes of Columbjohn Wood, we spotted herons and egrets down by the water. Otters are also regularly sighted here.
From the valley we climbed a path through sycamore, beech and birch; red campion and buttercup colourful against layers of green. Part-way up are the deep foundations of a lost mansion, commissioned in 1775 by Sir Thomas Dyke Acland but never completed. As we paused to imagine the scale of such a house, the temperature started to drop, the air grew heavy, the woods darkened.
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The rain began as we neared the top, pattering at first, then gaining momentum, splashing in huge, wet drops. It was, in Terry Pratchett's words, 'the kind of rain that is so much wetter than normal rain … the kind of rain that is merely an upright sea with slots in it'.
We soon found ourselves in an alpine valley, tall deodar cedars rising from its steep slopes. Inspired by the picturesque movement and foreign travel, the Aclands had intended to install mountain boulders in the valley, but these never made it to Devon.
Highland cattle watched through rain-matted fringes as we crossed the Plains, heading for the summit of Dolbury Hill. Known locally as The Clump, this igneous knoll and Iron Age hillfort boasts grand views across the Exe Valley on a clear day — but was now entirely swallowed by cloud.
As we made our way down the rain stopped at last and the skies began to clear, warm sunshine flooding the landscape. We walked past the house, through fields bright with buttercups and orchids, to the café where we sat with cups of tea, steaming gently.
How hard is it? 5 miles. Easy: paths, tracks and minor roads
Start Killerton car park, EX5 3LE (OS ref SS976001)
Getting there Trains to Pinhoe, bus 1A/1 towards Tiverton, alight at Killerton turn. Road — follow signs from the M5 via the B3181. Alternative non-NT parking at Ellerhayes Bridge
Walk From main car park turn left onto lane, bearing left onto larger road for short distance uphill (NT members can avoid the road by following signs to chapel). At chapel bear left through gate onto bridleway, through parkland to Ellerhayes Bridge. Turn left, following track around edge of Park Wood with River Culm on right. At path junction (961002) take sharp left uphill through Columbjohn Wood. At top bear left signed Deodar Glen, then left signed Park Wood and Ellerhayes Bridge, then right signed The Plains and The Clump. Go through Irishman's Gate and across The Plains then right, uphill to The Clump. Head downhill along edge of garden boundary, through Bluebell Gate and into Front Park Bank, following signs to Stables Café to finish.
Lunch Stables Café, Killerton (
Accommodation Killerton Park Cottage (3-night min; 0344 800 2070,
More information Visit Devon (