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India Today
12-07-2025
- Entertainment
- India Today
How Brad Pitt's Tangaliya shirt in ‘F1' movie spotlights a 700-year-old Indian craft
In the high-octane world of F1, a film that released in June, Brad Pitt's character Sonny Hayes strides onto the screen exuding a quiet confidence that belies his character's arc as a seasoned racer past his prime taking a shot at a reflective pause in the film, set against the backdrop of a sun-drenched pit lane, the weathered yet charismatic driver walks in, purposefully wearing a striking indigo shirt. Its subtle, bead-like patterns catch the light—a Tangaliya weave, handcrafted by artisans from from the sustainable Indian label 11.11/eleven by costume designer Julian Day, this isn't another wardrobe choice; rather it's a symbol of authenticity, resilience and a connection to something timeless, mirroring Sonny's own journey of rediscovery. Day, known for his work on Bohemian Rhapsody (2018), chose the shirt deliberately as he felt the palette was right for Pitt's choice reflects a broader trend in global cinema towards authentic, heritage-driven aesthetics, elevating a 700-year-old craft to a modern stage. The shirt's organic cotton, dyed with natural indigo through a 100 per cent fructose-based fermentation process, took eight artisans 9.2 hours to craft, embodying the slow, deliberate artistry. Tangaliya, also known as Daana weaving, is a handloom technique that originated in the Surendranagar and Kachchh districts of Gujarat's Saurashtra region, a land of arid plains and vibrant cultural craft, dating back to seven centuries, is defined by its intricate dot-like patterns, created by twisting contrasting threads around warp yarns to form raised, bead-like motifs visible on both sides of the fabric. The term Tangaliya derives from Tang, meaning the leg from heel to knee, referencing the traditional black chaniya with white dots worn by Bharwad women, a shepherd tells of a Bharwad man who married from the weaver community, defying social norms. Shunned by his family, he learned weaving, using wool from his sheep to create shawls with unique Dana patterns, giving rise to the Dangasia community, the primary practitioners of Tangaliya. This origin story underscores the craft's roots in resilience, love and cultural fusion, blending pastoral and artisanal Saurashtra region, with its stark landscapes and tight-knit communities, has long fostered crafts like Tangaliya, which was historically woven on pit looms in villages like Dedara, Vastadi and Godavari. Traditionally, Tangaliya used wool from local sheep, but today, artisans incorporate cotton, silk and viscose to meet modern demands. The process is labour-intensive: weavers use their fingers to sense the precise number of warp threads, twisting extra weft to create geometric patterns—dots, circles or parabolic designs—that mimic delicate embroidery. Motifs often draw from the environment, like peacocks or wells, reflecting the Dangasia's connection to their craft's sustainability is notable. Brands like 11.11/eleven eleven use indigenous organic cotton, such as kala, and eco-friendly dyes, thus minimising the environmental impact. This aligns with Tangaliya's traditional ethos of resourcefulness, as the Dangasia historically bartered woven goods for wool and grains, fostering a self-sustaining cultural significance is profound, tied to the Dangasia's identity and their worship of deities Shiva, Shakti and also Jodhalpir, a revered figure from 750 years ago. The craft, once on the brink of extinction due to industrialisation, was revitalised through efforts like that of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) in Gandhinagar, which formed the Tangaliya Hastkala Association in initiative, involving 226 weavers from five villages, introduced skill-building workshops and design innovations, earning Tangaliya GI (Geographical Indication) status in 2009. Today, the craft is practised in Surendranagar's villages, with artisans adapting traditional techniques for contemporary products like dupattas, kurtis and home market for Tangaliya has grown, though it remains niche. Pitt's Tangaliya shirt gained global attention through F1, showcasing the craft's potential in high fashion. Other platforms, such as iTokri, Gaatha and Amazon's Garvi Gurjari, sell Tangaliya products, from shawls to unstitched kurti fabric. Lesser-known brands such as RaasLeelaTextile and HolyThread India also offer Tangaliya suits and shirts, catering to buyers seeking sustainable, handcrafted challenges persist: a 2022 study, 'Tangaliya Weaving: A Languishing Handicraft of Surendranagar District', by Amisha Shah of Zenodo (CERN, the European Organization for Nuclear Research) notes that only 12 per cent of Tangaliya artisans are under 30 years, indicating low interest among the youth, and 48 per cent of artisans do not wish for their children to learn this craft, threatening its future premium placed on Tangaliya products in the international market notwithstanding, the research revealed that the monthly income of 88 per cent of the weavers remained under a measly Rs 5,000, which adds to the economic challenges for survival of the craft. Machine-made alternatives flooding the market has not helped traditional weavers, many of whom have chosen to shift to other this, Tangaliya's global spotlight, amplified by Pitt's endorsement, signals hope. The craft's visibility in F1 has sparked interest, potentially opening new markets and reinforcing its cultural and economic value. Tradition, when woven with care, can race into the to India Today Magazine- Ends
The Hindu
11-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Hindu
Meet the Tangaliya weavers behind Brad Pitt's shirt in F1
Spotting an international personality in Indian designer wear is not unprecedented. But it was more than just a fashion statement when Brad Pitt recently wore a handcrafted shirt — designed by Indian fashion label 11.11/eleven eleven — created in a traditional Tangaliya weave in his Formula One movie, FI. In a recent interview, celebrated couturier and stylist Julian Day, who was costumer designer for F1, said that the choice of the shirt was intentional and deliberate. The organic handloom indigo-hued cotton shirt, dyed naturally, was zeroed in to validate Brad's film persona, Sonny Hayes. Aside from the fact that only 100 weavers practise this craft today, why is Tangaliya so special? It is believed that around seven centuries ago, a man from the Bharwad faction of livestock herders in Surendranagar district in Saurashtra, wedded a woman from the weaver community, much against the consent of both their families. Nonetheless, it proved to be a marital union that propelled the meticulous and intricate Indian craftmanship. Their offspring came to be known as Dangasia, born of shepherds and weavers. They brought in the skill of Tangaliya or Daana weaving. Folks from the Dangasia community, inhabiting the villages of Vastadi, Dedadra, Godavari, and Wadhwan in Surendranagar district practise this craft. Despite its GI tag, limited awareness and being restricted to a specific region has kept the Tangaliya weave from getting its due recognition and just around a hundred weavers practise this craft today. Gheta wool is the base fabric on which designs are woven in a bead-work technique. The weaving is laborious and rigorous where every dot is made by sheathing a yarn around several threads, creating the motif on both sides of the material. Contrary to its look which resembles subtle embroidery, it is interlaced on the fabric. Ladwa (Indian mithai) and chaklo are the predominant, traditional patterns of Tangaliya. Other designs include mango trees, date palms, peacocks, bajra plants, and naughara (new house). The demanding and painstaking technique of daanas lent a geometric and graphic touch to the motifs. They are woven on silk and cotton fabrics as saris, blouses, cushion covers, jackets and dress material. The arduous, time-consuming but striking Tangaliya designs are Ramraj, Dhunslu, Lobdi, Gadia, and Charmalia. Ramraj is the most vibrant with extensive bead work done in maroon, pink, orange, green and yellow colours over a white background. Established by designers Mia Morikawa and Shani Himanshu, 11.11/eleven eleven is headquartered in Delhi and has a showroom in New York. This 15-year-old slow fashion brand rooted in indigenous practices, champions craftsmanship and thoughtful design through a system of small-batch, handmade production using organic cotton and natural dyes as an ethical and sustainable approach. About their creation, Shani, says, 'As global voices begin to embrace the beauty of indigenous knowledge systems, the recognition we receive today feels deeply personal; not just for the brand, but for the craftsman whose hands bring each garment to life.' In a unique step toward transparency and connection, the brand has introduced its proprietary 'Meet the Makers' technology: an NFC-enabled button embedded in every garment. With just a smartphone tap, wearers can trace the journey of their piece and meet the artisan community behind it. Ranjit Sinh Parmar, founder and CEO, Palaces of India, and luxury property Ambika Nivas Palace located in Surendranagar supports Tangaliya artisans and promotes this dying heritage by organising The Muli Textile Artisans Tour. An immersive cultural trip, it enables guests to experience weavers at work, understand their craft and encourage interactions, forging new avenues for their weaves. Pleased to see the shirt featured on the big screen, he says, 'It's a celebration of legacy, skill and culture. To see it worn by a Hollywood legend, on a global stage, is beyond inspiring.'
Time of India
08-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Brad Pitt's F1 look puts Gujarat's Tangaliya weave in global spotlight
Brad Pitt in a Tangaliya shirt The shirt features ecru and yellow bead motifs in the Tangaliya weave Brad Pitt's F1: The Movie isn't just about high-octane racing - it's also about high-impact fashion. In one of the most talked-about scenes, Pitt is seen sporting a unique indigo shirt. Look closer, and you'll find it's not just any designer wear - it's handwoven in Gujarat. Fashion designerMiku Kumar says, 'When a traditional Indian weave enters global pop culture as contemporary wear - not costume - it signals relevance. It tells the world that our crafts aren't relics; they're style-forward, sustainable, and ready to lead. This kind of visibility can spark new markets, elevate artisan pride, and finally give Indian handlooms the global spotlight they deserve.' The weave behind the wow The shirt in question was made using the Tangaliya weaving technique, an intricate and lesser-known handloom art form from Surendranagar, Gujarat. It's crafted by a sustainable Indian brand, known for its blending of traditional Indian techniques with contemporary silhouettes. Why it matters The movie may revolve around speed, but its quiet nod to Indian craftsmanship reflects a shift towards authenticity in global cinema. by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like Top Public Speaking Course for Children Planet Spark Book Now Undo The Tangaliya-woven shirt -made using a 700-year-old technique - places traditional Indian textiles in a modern, international spotlight. It's not a costume, but contemporary style rooted in heritage. This kind of visibility can revive fading crafts, support artisan livelihoods, and push slow fashion into the mainstream. In an era where every on-screen detail tells a story, even a shirt can carry the weight of culture and meaning. Did you know? Tangaliya weaving, practised by the Dangasia community in Gujarat for over 700 years, is a rare handloom technique that creates intricate dot-based motifs by twisting contrasting threads into the warp. Recognised with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, it stands as a symbol of India's rich textile heritage and artisanal excellence.
