Latest news with #Dawnstalkers
Telegraph
07-07-2025
- Telegraph
The genteel Welsh seaside town with Michelin stars, award-winning pubs and proud locals
Just before sunrise, Penarth was strangely astir. Cloaked figures emerged from the darkness, coalescing at the water's edge. Born during lockdown, the Dawnstalkers Sea Swim Club – less a club, more a community open to all – meets here every morning, year-round. As the sun broke the horizon and I disrobed to take my own plunge, I spoke to Sarah-Jane from Lancashire. On the basis of seeing the Dawnstalkers on Instagram, she'd moved here; she's since become engaged to a fellow swimmer. Not every visitor will find love in Penarth, but it's easy to understand the more general appeal. This small farming and fishing village in the Vale of Glamorgan boomed in the 19th century thanks to the building of the docks, the arrival of the railway and the tourism marketeers, who branded it 'the Garden by the Sea'. Penarth is still a box-ticker, offering both coast and countryside plus a community feel with big-city benefits: Cardiff is just 12 minutes away by train. This makes it prime commuter territory, with some of the most expensive addresses in Wales. But while gentrification has priced some people out, it has helped make Penarth more resilient. 'Many towns are struggling,' one local told me, 'but Penarth has bucked the trend.' What's it really like? Penarth is by the sea – well, the silty surgings of the Bristol Channel. But it's not really a traditional seaside town. Yes, it has a Victorian pier. You can buy ice creams (try Fablas), promenade under bulb-strung lampposts and look across to the Somerset coast. But there are no arcades, no sandy beach. 'Penarth has never been about the bucket-and-spade brigade,' explained John Davies, editor of Penarth View. 'If you want candy floss and rock, go to Barry Island [eight miles west]. Penarth is more genteel.' I mooched around, starting by the sea, walking past the tiny but exotic Italian gardens and up through the Edwardian landscaping of Alexandra Park. It all looked extremely well-kept. 'There's real pride in Penarth,' explained Nia Hollins of the Vale of Glamorgan Council. 'The people who live here are making the choice to be involved.' Many are retired professionals, with time on their hands and skills to impart. But there's fresh blood too. Davies also runs the Milkshed, Penarth's first co-working space: 'Our studios are fully let for the next two years,' he said. 'People don't want to commute into Cardiff. They want to come and grow their businesses here.' One new business taking a punt is Silures restaurant, which recently opened at Holm House hotel. This 1920s sea-view mansion was formerly a boutique hotel visited by an array of celebs, from David Hasselhoff to Gary Lineker. That closed in 2024 and it's now a collection of self-catering suites, to which Silures will add 'high-quality food at accessible prices', not least 25 per cent off lobster on Thermidor Thursdays. What's not to like? Parking is a constant source of grumbling, largely because there's no town centre car park. However, there's plenty of free parking on-street and on the edge of town. I made use of the large free site at Cliff Parade, near the much-loved Wilmore's 1938 Cafe. It was well-placed for walking to Comeston Lakes Country Park and along the Coast Path to Lavernock Point, following the fossil-flecked Jurassic cliffs. The car park was also a pleasant mile's walk into the town centre, past the mansions of Victorian shipping tycoons. On that walk, I passed a film crew doing things with cables and hanging around trailers. A sign warned of flashing lights and imitation weapons: 'Please do not be alarmed'. This sort of thing happens frequently here. This set-up was for Casualty, but Penarth has appeared in all sorts. For instance, the Pier Pavilion was transformed into a 1950s Miami cinema for Dr Who and, most recently, the town appeared in BBC comedy-sleuth series Death Valley. While the glamour of being on telly appeals to some locals, it riles others who argue the disruption affects trade – not to mention what it does to the parking… Do this… Support the high street. Start at Grade II-listed Windsor Arcade, where a family-run greengrocer Windsor Fruit Stores of Penarth sells every type of fruit and veg, and Umpa Lumpa sells every type of retro sweet. At the front of the arcade is Griffin Books, UK Independent Bookshop of the Year 2023 and heart of the community: it's just expanded into the shop next door and runs free story time sessions, six book clubs and author events. I had a good browse, then sampled cheese with Jean-Marc at Fauvette and popped into Brød to eat fresh-baked knude and sit where Timothy Spall does in Death Valley. Eat this… Eat everything more like. Over the past decade, Penarth has developed something of a foodie reputation, both in terms of variety and accolades. Chef James Sommerin launched his intimate, 24-seat restaurant, Home, here in 2021; it was awarded a Michelin star six months later. The trendy Touring Club, co-owned by celebrity chef Bryn Williams won a Bib Gourmand in 2024 for its unfussy small plates. Then there's Keyif for top Turkish, Mint & Mustard for Keralan curry and The Pilot for good food and real ale – it's CAMRA's 2025 Pub of the Year for Wales. But don't do this… Don't expect a day of seaside frolics. Penarth regularly ranks high on 'best place to live in Wales' polls but is a little lacking for holidaymakers. There's limited accommodation and few 'attractions'. For instance, Turner House – opened in 1888 so businessman James Pyke Thompson could share his art collection – is a fine building, and remains a community art-space, but won't take long to visit. The restored Art Deco Pier Pavilion is handsome, but its offering is fairly limited: cinema (mostly classics), music sessions for kids. That said, a new cultural manager was appointed in 2024, and has big plans to ensure the space is well used and enjoyed. From a local Mel Griffin, bookseller: 'We're only three miles from Cardiff, but Penarth is very much a separate town with its own identity. In the years I've lived here [since 2001] there has been a lot of development, and the seafront has been reinvigorated with the renovation of the Pier Pavilion. 'In the town centre, shops and restaurants have come and gone but there's still a great mix of independent businesses – you can get pretty much everything you need without leaving Penarth.' From a tourist Nancy Evison from Kent was drawn to Penarth by seeing the Dawnstalkers swim club on Instagram. 'I first visited them in 2022 – the community welcomed me with such openness,' she said. 'I always head straight for the pier when I arrive. I've stayed at the Beachcliff Hotel many times and just love waking up with a view of the pier at dawn.' 'It's just a really friendly kind of place, with the loveliest people,' agreed Ruth McMorrow from Belfast. 'And such a pretty wee seafront – driving down the hill, it took my breath away. I'd also really recommend the coffee and cookies from Stol Coffee.'
Wales Online
22-06-2025
- Wales Online
'I got up at 4.29am, like I'm doing something illicit, and now there is no going back'
'I got up at 4.29am, like I'm doing something illicit, and now there is no going back' My legs tingle with the chill of the sea at daybreak. Then I plunge in as my body buzzes with the endorphins of a cold water dip Abbie Wightwick swimming at Penarth beach with Dawnstalkers as the run rises (Image: James Richardson ) It's so early even the cat hasn't woken and the room is dark when my alarm goes off at 4am. The street is silent as I slip outside in the pre-dawn glow. Walking quickly down the hill it feels as if I'm doing something illicit while everyone else is sleeping. I am stealing time while the world is snoozing to swim in the sea at daybreak. I've always been a swimmer and love the beach, but am no fan of very early mornings or cold water. As it turns out, perhaps I am. I'm pumped on adrenaline like I'm off to catch an early morning holiday flight, but when I get there the shore is calm and still. Down on the pebbles a handful of people are exchanging cheerful good mornings. This is the moment when I'll have to introduce myself as a newbie and get into the chilly waves when I could be snuggled down under my duvet. There's no going back. What happens next is a warm embrace from the lovely people known as Dawnstalkers. Sign up for our free daily briefing on the biggest issues facing the nation sign up to the Wales Matters newsletter here. Article continues below This is the group who swim off Penarth beach every morning as the sunrises, come rain or shine. They've been meeting for nearly five years since the pandemic. Within minutes I'm welcomed and chatting with an eclectic, smiling bunch of people as we wade into the sea. They point to the red orb magically appearing on the skyline as my legs tingle with the chill of the water. And then I've plunged in, my body acclimatising to the temperature and thrill of a dawn dip. This is great. Dawnstalkers welcome the sun on Penarth Beach (Image: James Richardson ) Bobbing in the water is Grant Zehetmayr. It was his lone daily dawn swims when Covid lockdowns eased that inspired what is now Dawnstalkers. It wasn't intentional and is an achievement that happened organically when passers-by saw and joined him. Now hundreds of people are part of the movement with a core group of around 10 meeting every morning. People swimming through the year with Dawnstalkers range in age from children to those in their eighties. They include retired people, students and people heading off to work afterwards. There's even a splinter group, Moon Mermaids, that swims at night when there's a new moon. "It was 2020 and I found lockdown difficult," recalls Grant, "I was missing something and searching for something. There was no structure in the week any more. I started getting in the sea and then I added it to dry January in 2021. I didn't set out to create a swimming group or club. I just got into the sea and people were interested and joined me." Splashing in the waves at dawn (Image: James Richardson ) Grant was drinking too much at the time and felt disconnected. Few people, if any, swam off Penarth beach pre-Covid, let alone at dawn through the winter. His early morning sessions were unusual and soon noticed. As the number joining him grew Grant began posting about it on social media. Now his social life has swapped ends of the day - he meets friends early and with the sea as an ice breaker rather than alcohol. The name Dawnstalkers came from a joke made by Grant's wife Beth who is at home asleep with their daughter Lola. 'A dopamine hit' After swimming Grant will go back and then on to work in his graphic and design business Signs Express at Cardiff Bay. Like most of the dawn swimmers he goes to bed very early in mid-summer as the sun rises just before 5am. "If you socialise at dawn you don't feel the need to drink alcohol. Dawn swimming was a substitute addiction, but I didn't realise that and it wasn't meant to be subversive," says Grant. "Most people wouldn't get in the sea year round. I like pushing boundaries and became interested in the health benefits of cold water swimming later. I did not set out to create a group but it is a real privilege. Cold water swimming is addictive and you do get a dopamine hit from it." Grant Zehetmayr's daily dawn swim during the first lockdown in 2020 encouraged others to join him and the community that is now the Dawnstalkers grew (Image: James Richardson ) Cold water swimming has gained popularity in recent years with lots of discussion about the health and wellbeing benefits, but for Dawnstalkers it is as much about the friendships that have grown up around their daily gathering. With no official membership anyone can come down, join them and swim. Some swimmers like to chat and go in as a group while others prefer a nod and hello and to be in the water solo. There are no rules and no expectations. As I float on my back in the waves watching the sky turn from grey to orange-blue I swear I can feel endorphins flood through. It feels great, but I have to keep moving. It may be June but it's not long past 5am and this is Wales, not the Caribbean. Back on land people tell me how this has literally changed their lives. All say it's more than swimming, that Dawnstalkers is a community of friends and support, that they have found the links they were seeking and their mental health has improved. Sarah-Jane Hocking moved from Lancashire to Penarth to swim with the group after seeing photos of Dawnstalkers on social media. In September she's marrying James Richardson who takes the pictures every morning and posts them to his Instagram. 'I got hooked' Working from home for a textile company meant Sarah-Jane could relocate to Wales: "Dawnstalkers has given me my purpose. I have found me," she says, "I have found friends and my partner. It's the best decision I ever made and all because someone up north sent me a Facebook post from Dawnstalkers." Sarah-Jane Hocking moved from Lancashire to Penarth to swim with the Dawnstalkers four years ago. (Image: James Richardson ) For James, who comes from Penarth and has known this stretch of coast all this life, the joy is its ever changing nature. The 39-year-old professional photographer loves the sunrise, the sea and the swimmers and has a book of his images coming out later this year. "I came down for a coffee and remembered hearing so much joy coming from the people swimming," he says, "The community is incredible. I really enjoy taking photographs here because the light at dawn is always different and always surprises me. I thought it would be a flash in the pan but it wasn't." Facing east Penarth beach catches the sunrise and of course the sun moves from one side to the other as the year changes. The extreme tides also mean the swimmers meet on one or other side of the pier, so every swim is unique to record. George Menzies, a retired marine engineer from Sully, and his wife Alison, a retired civil servant, have been swimming five days a week with the Dawnstalkers for more than two years. They joined, never meaning to stay but got hooked. "We came thinking it would be a one-off," admits Alison, "something to tick off a list of things to do, but we came back. It's the community that is so lovely. "It makes me feel healthier and there is something very therapeutic about cold water swimming and the community around it. It's a very special and unique group." "It's a really nice group of people," agrees George, "It's the swimming and the social side for me. It's a great way to start the day and it's not always howling a gale, but when the sea is rough it's a different experience. We come five days a week rain or shine. It's really beautiful." It's one thing doing this in June, but wading into a grey sea while the rain beats down or picking through frozen seaweed on the shore in midwinter doesn't sound as much fun. The swimmers explain you get used to it and part of the joy is that every day is different. Sometimes hats and gloves are needed, sometimes not. The colours of dawn over the sea at Penarth are always different depending on the weather and time of year (Image: James Richardson ) John Winser joined Dawnstalkers on New Year's Day 2023 and says the sea here never gets much below 6C. Early starts with his job as restaurant retail supervisor at the University Hospital of Wales means he can't come in the week but he swims at dawn most weekends. "When it's cold you do think "what am I doing?," the 54 year-old admits, "but soon you get a buzz and serotonin. It's addictive and I miss it if I don't go. There's never any pressure and no one judges you in the group. You can be yourself. 'Feel a connection' "I started because I had been through a bit of trauma and saw Dawnstalkers as social. I came down because I needed something. It's been brilliant mentally and physically and the community is brilliant. It's also a spiritual experience when you lie in the sea and look up at the sky and the sun rising. "It's also different at different times of the year, When there are big storms and waves the energy is phenomenal, but we always swim safely." Coffee at daybreak. Piotr Skoczylas (centre) at his mobile coffee shop Stol Coffee with John Winser (left) and James Richardson (right) (Image: Abbie Wightwick/WalesOnline ) Of course you can't have early mornings without coffee. Piotr Skoczylas had just lost his job in a coffee shop because of the pandemic when he spotted Dawnstalkers in 2021. He comes each morning with his mobile coffee shop Stol Coffee and its menu including cookies and free hugs. Piotr is an essential part of the group and his bright yellow coffee cart is a well known early morning fixture on the seafront now. Like the swimmers Piotr, who is also a life coach, loves the daybreak and feels a connection to the sea, the people and the moment. As the year turns and the midsummer solstice arrives hundreds of people are expected to gather with the Dawnstalkers to welcome in the longest day of the year at Penarth beach on June 21. It is perhaps the highest profile swim of the year for the group and draws in swimmers not just from Penarth and beyond but from outside Wales too. Article continues below The dawn solstice swim will be followed by a silent disco on the beach and no doubt people will be bringing picnic breakfast and buying coffee from Piotr. It will be a community event for all ages as the sun starts its journey back around the globe again and new connections are forged. When he began swimming off Penarth beach Grant did it alone. Now no one has to swim alone there.
Wales Online
21-06-2025
- Climate
- Wales Online
The beautiful scenes captured by photographer who visits the beach every morning at dawn
Scores of swimmers gathered at a Welsh beach at dawn today to welcome in the summer solstice. The Dawnstalkers community swim at Penarth beach for sunrise every morning throughout the year. They were joined today by many more to greet the longest day of the year in the northern hemisphere. Summer solstice marks the day the sun is at its highest point in the sky, before it begins its slow descent to winter. June 21 will be the day with the longest period of daylight and shortest night of the year in our hemisphere, a magic moment of midsummer. To welcome the day we are sharing these dramatic images from Dawnstalkers official photographer James Richardson. James lives opposite the beach at Penarth seafront and goes down every morning to capture the daybreak dippers in the ever changing light and weather of the coast. He has kept a record of the group since it evolved in the pandemic after local, Grant Zehetmayr, began taking a morning swim at daybreak, whatever the weather. Now people come from Penarth and beyond to swim with the group. Some have travellled from Wiltshire regularly and one moved from Lancashire to stay swimming with them. James captures the changing moods and seasons as the sun rises every day through the year. Sometimes the glow turns the sea purple, at other times the sea and sky is burnished bright orange. It's these other worldly scenes that captures the imagination and keeps swimmers returning, even when the water gets so cold it takes the breath away. One describes "crunching" across frosty seaweed in the depths of winter to get to the chilly water. By contrast the midsummer water is warm. The warmest seawater temperatures off Penarth are in August and September at around 16.7C and the coldest in March with an average 8.3C, records show. Sometimes the sea is flat as glass and at others wind and storms whip up the waves for a more energetic experience.. Depending on tides, which come very low and very high here, the group swims off one side or the other of Penarth pier. For James this altering landscape is the perfect canvas. "The light at dawn is always different and depends on the clouds and mist," he says, "I love taking pictures here and it's never the same even though you're in the same place." This time of daybreak is known as the "blue hour" in photography and generally considered as the opposite to the golden hour at dusk. The moment before dawn the sky may be light blue, but in moments as the sun peeps above the horizon it can also come ablaze with reds, pinks, orange and even purple. These photos by James show some of the scenes and colours he's captured through the seasons with the Dawnstalkers. He also shares them on his Instagram at @halfit0.5 and @dawnstalkers. An exhibition of James' work to celebrate the group is planned for September at Penarth pier building. More information about Dawnstalkers can be found here Happy solstice! Sign up for our free daily briefing on the biggest issues facing the nation sign up to the Wales Matters newsletter here.
North Wales Live
06-05-2025
- North Wales Live
Inside the Welsh seaside town where homes regularly sell for more than £1m
There's a seaside town that regularly appears on lists of the best places to live in Wales, either decided by impartial judges or by residents themselves, and it is one of the most active property hot spots in the country for combining an offering of coast, country and city. If you went back in time to over 1,000 years ago you would probably find farm land and areas owned by St Augustine's Abbey in Bristol, and even King Henry VIII, according to the local civic society, but these days Penarth is a thriving town that is popular as a place to call home and to visit regularly by people from the surrounding local area. Just a 10-minute drive from Cardiff the town thrived during the industrial revolution and the development of the train network and from that growth has come streets of grand Victorian villas that regularly sell for over £1m, plus winding roads of traditional period terraces. More recently the abandoned dock and an area of rundown flats have both been regenerated and are now areas of townhouses and apartments. For more property stories sent to your inbox twice a week sign up to the property newsletter here. To live in Penarth is to adore the promenade and pier, the parks and the coastal walks, the High Street independent establishments and sea view eateries, the great schools and local sports clubs, and the proximity to Cardiff that makes it the ideal commuter town. For most residents and visitors Penarth appearing regularly in "best places to live" lists is not a surprise. In 2025 the town was named as one of only seven best places to live in 2025 by The Times, with one judge saying: "It's easy to live your best life in this smartest of seaside spots. Penarth is picturesque, thanks to its rows of beautiful properties and a Victorian pier; eminently practical, with good schools and quick links into Cardiff and a haven for foodies. "But what makes it really special is how much is on offer that enriches the quality of life, whatever your age, from paddleboarding to joining one of the many clubs, such as the rowing and yacht clubs or the Dawnstalkers, who brave the water at the seafront at first light each morning." One way to get a feel for a location as a place to live is to chat to a few local estate agents who work and live in the area and get to know it intimately. Richard Baker from local agency David Baker & Co is always keen to chat about the town he has always called home. Richard says: "Having lived in Penarth my whole life, how could I say that I don't love it!? It's a great place to be young, and an even better place to raise a family. We're very happy here and there is just so much to do. "We love walks to the seafront and Cosmeston Lakes, spending time in the town centre and we're active members of a few of the local sports clubs. There is a real sense of community and we love being part of that." Over the decades Richard has seen the property market become exceptionally buoyant. He says: "One of the best things about Penarth is that we have all kinds of property, ranging from the late 19th Century to the present day and most things in between. "Family homes are always popular whether they are Victorian, Edwardian, pre-war, 1960s or more modern." According to land registry data house prices in Penarth have an overall average of £369,762 over the last year compared to the current Welsh average of £207,382 and the Cardiff average of £299,679. The majority of properties sold in Penarth during the last year were terraced properties, selling for an average price of £351,540. Flats sold for an average of £207,416, with semi-detached properties fetching £474,286. Overall, the historical sold prices in Penarth over the last year were 14% down on the previous year and 6% down on the 2022 peak of £394,392. Richard says: "The demographics of buyers in Penarth is as broad as the supply of property. At the moment we are very busy with first time buyers and young families upsizing. Older downsizers are still very active too and of course that circle is one that has helped to maintain the market in the town for many, many years." Local agent Murray Shepherd from locally based estate agents Shepherd Sharpe agrees that the town is a special location that attracts a range of buyers. He comments: "A walk along the seafront and cliff top is always very enjoyable. With so much to choose from it's difficult to have a favourite to visit, however Hickman's which has just opened is proving very popular, especially with its fantastic roof terrace providing a wonderful outside space to enjoy a drink in the sunshine. "It's difficult to describe Penarth in three words as it has so much to offer, however I think a 'friendly vibrant community' would sum it up nicely." Thirteen years ago local freelance graphic designer 36-year-old John Davies, originally from Aberaeron, felt exactly the same, and chose Penarth to find his forever home in his forever location for a number of tangible reasons that keep the property market active. John says: "Part of Penarth's charm is that it hardly ever changes, I think that's what people come back for time and time again - the quiet charm that can be found in having an ice cream walking along the esplanade, or a bag of chips on the pier. "That's not to say the town hasn't changed, because anywhere that stays stagnant will fail so Penarth is lucky because it has an active and buoyant high street and if a shop closes it's not very long until a new business will replace it." One of the most noticeable aspects of the town to many visitors is the range of independent businesses on and around the main high street and along the esplanade, that can also boast sea views. John says: "We're super proud and we're super pleased that we have got so many independent businesses and they're successful as well, people visit them and buy from them and that's what makes Penarth such a lovely place to work and live. "You need a good range for the town to be useful for residents as well as visitors, and we have got that lovely mix of successful, independent businesses and some national chains as well." John says that the town, despite its size of 28,394 published in the 2021 census, has many choices of eating establishments, from cafes to pubs, from bistros and bars to food from around the world, that are enjoyed regularly by visitors as well as residents, and he finds it a challenge to choose his favourite. Eventually, John says: "Recently we've been to Hickmans which has been open for two or three months I think, lovely food, the service was good, Bar 44 is always a good bet, especially for some drinks after food as well, there's always a nice vibe in there. "Keyif Turkish restaurant is a nice place, Mehmet who owns it can't do enough for you, he's a very good host. "Brod is always a firm favourite, it has this wonderful magnetic power to it, visitors are just drawn to it, it's very different, very unique, it's a pocket of Copenhagen in Penarth. They've also got a large, industrial style bakery where they make and supply all the cafes - they are in Cardiff Bay and Pontcanna too - and they've got a great apprenticeship programme, so it's a very full and complete business that likes to train young people in the industry as well so it's a nice business model." This sense of community and giving something back is another strong pull for people in their desire to move to Penarth, or it's the magnet that keeps them from leaving. John says: "You're never too far away from a friend or a neighbour, and neighbours do tend to get along with each other in a nice, respectful kind of way, like I walked to the office just now and I was stopped several times to have a chat with people, it is that small community feel, you've always got friends and people around you. "There is everything you potentially need in the town but you've also got a capital city a ten minute train ride away. We're super, super lucky, everything on our doorstep." Over the 13 years John and husband Will Summers have lived in Penarth this sense of community has helped them become easily embedded within the town, John designing local publication Penarth View and musician and teacher Will running the local music school called Studio 64. But the couple have also invested in a shared work space called Milkshed Penarth, offering flexible workspaces, hot and fixed desk rental and versatile studio spaces for local businesses as a way to also support local entrepreneurs and start-ups to become established and thrive. The couple have also seen the town continue to develop its vibe of a vibrant place to call home but also not lose its slower pace of life that so many residents cherish, and this is noticeable even to visitors. John says: "We had a friend visit from London for the weekend and we went into Cardiff and he commented on how lovely it was to have everything the city has to offer very near, but how lovely it was to come back to Penarth and just slow down a little bit again." One of the most pleasant things to do recommended by John is a walk through and past some of the town's landmark locations. He says: "There's a really nice walk - starting at The Turner House gallery, which is a lovely place to spend some time, and then walking through Alexandra Park down to the sea front, to the pier to have an ice cream." While at this coastal location there's more art and creativity to enjoy at the instantly recognisable and restored 1929 Art Deco pier pavilion building that is home to a gallery, event space, and café that has outdoor as well as indoor seating, plus a choice of snack food and drink outlets along the pier that stretches out into the Bristol Channel. Most people who have visited Penarth head for this stretch of the Welsh coast at some point, for a stroll and a snack or to visit one of the number of restaurants and bars that line the esplanade, or maybe treat themselves to something lovely from the homeware shop Shore, and even end up on the beach having a paddle or skimming pebbles. John suggests then continuing your walk along the esplanade as it joins up with the coastal path, moving away from Cardiff and towards Barry. He says: "Follow the coast path and head up to clifftops and there's a little café there called Willmore's, lovely coffee and homemade cakes as well - it's a really nice walk and if you've got sunny weather it's stunning - it's a little walk along the Welsh Riviera!" Another area of the historic town is the marina that looks out over Cardiff Bay, once a thriving dock and now a place to seek out living in a townhouse or apartment with water views as well as a handy place to moor your boat. The range of unique properties and locations on offer that suits people within different life stages from the marina to traditional terraces, from massive Victorian villas to seafront and bay view apartments - the town appears to be able to satisfy most needs and budgets. Estate agents Richard and Murray both agree that the town will continue to attract new residents and see current Penarth people staying put, either moving up and down the property ladder. Richard says: "The demographics of buyers in Penarth is as broad as the supply of property. At the moment we are very busy with first time buyers and young families upsizing. Older downsizers are still very active too and of course that circle is one that has helped to maintain the market in the town for many, many years." Murray adds: "As Penarth is such a sought after place to live, there are plenty of buyers looking and with more stock available, and as long as homes are priced realistically properties are selling. We are confident this trend will continue over the coming summer months." So the future looks bright for Penarth regarding property and the special atmosphere and community spirit the town offers buyers, but John can think of a down side to living in Penarth, just one, and that is the number of hills, he laughs: "After a couple of years of living here you'll definitely have stronger gluts." But nothing can make John fall out of love with this special Victorian town. He says: "We've settled in Penarth and we definitely call it our home, it would take a very big life change to ever get us to leave. This town has been our home and our rock for 13 years, we don't envisage leaving, we've got friends here, we've built our businesses here, and we're very fond of the place." For more property stories join our Amazing Welsh Homes Facebook group here
Wales Online
06-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- Wales Online
Inside the Welsh seaside town where homes regularly sell for more than £1m
Inside the Welsh seaside town where homes regularly sell for more than £1m It's a location that can easily boast coast, country and city and has a house price way above the Welsh average The town has lovely parks and rows of pretty period properties plus a very popular sea front (Image: David Baker & Co, Penarth / South Wales Property Photography ) There's a seaside town that regularly appears on lists of the best places to live in Wales, either decided by impartial judges or by residents themselves, and it is one of the most active property hot spots in the country for combining an offering of coast, country and city. If you went back in time to over 1,000 years ago you would probably find farm land and areas owned by St Augustine's Abbey in Bristol, and even King Henry VIII, according to the local civic society, but these days Penarth is a thriving town that is popular as a place to call home and to visit regularly by people from the surrounding local area. Just a 10-minute drive from Cardiff the town thrived during the industrial revolution and the development of the train network and from that growth has come streets of grand Victorian villas that regularly sell for over £1m, plus winding roads of traditional period terraces. More recently the abandoned dock and an area of rundown flats have both been regenerated and are now areas of townhouses and apartments. For more property stories sent to your inbox twice a week sign up to the property newsletter here. READ MORE: 'It took us 10 years to transform this abandoned public toilet into a lovely home' YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: You can buy half an entire Welsh hamlet and it's gorgeous Popular with residents, the surrounding local population, competition judges and even strangers (Image: Jo Ridout, WalesOnline ) Article continues below To live in Penarth is to adore the promenade and pier, the parks and the coastal walks, the High Street independent establishments and sea view eateries, the great schools and local sports clubs, and the proximity to Cardiff that makes it the ideal commuter town. For most residents and visitors Penarth appearing regularly in "best places to live" lists is not a surprise. In 2025 the town was named as one of only seven best places to live in 2025 by The Times, with one judge saying: "It's easy to live your best life in this smartest of seaside spots. Penarth is picturesque, thanks to its rows of beautiful properties and a Victorian pier; eminently practical, with good schools and quick links into Cardiff and a haven for foodies. Most people have walked along the esplanade, paddled or tried pebble skimming at the beach (Image: Jo Ridout, Media Wales ) "But what makes it really special is how much is on offer that enriches the quality of life, whatever your age, from paddleboarding to joining one of the many clubs, such as the rowing and yacht clubs or the Dawnstalkers, who brave the water at the seafront at first light each morning." One way to get a feel for a location as a place to live is to chat to a few local estate agents who work and live in the area and get to know it intimately. Richard Baker from local agency David Baker & Co is always keen to chat about the town he has always called home. The town still has its Victorian pier and it's an extra bonus place for a stroll (Image: Jo Ridout, WalesOnline ) Richard says: " Having lived i n Penarth my whole life, how could I say that I don't love it!? It's a great place to be young, and an even better place to raise a family. We're very happy here and there is just so much to do. "We love walks to the seafront and Cosmeston Lakes, spending time in the town centre and we're active members of a few of the local sports clubs. There is a real sense of community and we love being part of that." Over the decades Richard has seen the property market become exceptionally buoyant. He says: " One of the best things about Penarth is that we have all ki nds of property, ranging from the late 19th Century to the present day and most things in between. "Family homes are always popular whether they are Victorian, Edwardian, pre-war, 1960s or more modern." Walk along the coastal path towards Barry for a pleasant stroll and a nose at some of the expensive homes that line the route (Image: Key Executive Sales, Cardiff ) According to land registry data house prices in Penarth have an overall average of £369,762 over the last year compared to the current Welsh average of £207,382 and the Cardiff average of £299,679. The majority of properties sold in Penarth during the last year were terraced properties, selling for an average price of £351,540. Flats sold for an average of £207,416, with semi-detached properties fetching £474,286. Overall, the historical sold prices in Penarth over the last year were 14% down on the previous year and 6% down on the 2022 peak of £394,392. The pier is always popular on a sunny day and includes additional opportunities to pick up a snack or an ice cream (Image: Richard Swingler Photography ) Richard says: "The demographics of buyers in Penarth is as broad as the supply of property. At the moment we are very busy with first time buyers and young families upsizing. Older downsizers are still very active too and of course that circle is one that has helped to maintain the market in the town for many, many years." Local agent Murray Shepherd from locally based estate agents Shepherd Sharpe agrees that the town is a special location that attracts a range of buyers. He comments: "A walk along the seafront and cliff top is always very enjoyable. With so much to choose from it's difficult to have a favourite to visit, however Hickman's which has just opened is proving very popular, especially with its fantastic roof terrace providing a wonderful outside space to enjoy a drink in the sunshine. The restore pier pavilion is home to a gallery, café and events space and recently a location for filming Doctor Who (Image: WalesOnline/Rob Browne ) "It's difficult to describe Penarth in three words as it has so much to offer, however I think a 'friendly vibrant community' would sum it up nicely." Thirteen years ago local freelance graphic designer 36-year-old John Davies, originally from Aberaeron, felt exactly the same, and chose Penarth to find his forever home in his forever location for a number of tangible reasons that keep the property market active. John says: " Par t of Penarth's charm is that it hardly ever changes, I think that's what people come back for time and time again - the quiet charm that can be found in having an ice cream walking along the esplanade, or a bag of chips on the pier. Many of the residential roads offer large Victorian villas costing over £1m (Image: Google maps ) "That's not to say the town hasn't changed, because anywhere that stays stagnant will fail so Penarth is lucky because it has an active and buoyant high street and if a shop closes it's not very long until a new business will replace it." One of the most noticeable aspects of the town to many visitors is the range of independent businesses on and around the main high street and along the esplanade, that can also boast sea views. Traditional terraces to be found in Penarth too (Image: Jeffrey Ross, Penarth ) John says: "We're super proud and we're super pleased that we have got so many independent businesses and they're successful as well, people visit them and buy from them and that's what makes Penarth such a lovely place to work and live. "You need a good range for the town to be useful for residents as well as visitors, and we have got that lovely mix of successful, independent businesses and some national chains as well." John says that the town, despite its size of 28,394 published in the 2021 census, has many choices of eating establishments, from cafes to pubs, from bistros and bars to food from around the world, that are enjoyed regularly by visitors as well as residents, and he finds it a challenge to choose his favourite. There is a mix of independent shops and eateries as well as national brands (Image: John Myers ) Eventually, John says: "Recently we've been to Hickmans which has been open for two or three months I think, lovely food, the service was good, Bar 44 is always a good bet, especially for some drinks after food as well, there's always a nice vibe in there. "Keyif Turkish restaurant is a nice place, Mehmet who owns it can't do enough for you, he's a very good host. "Brod is always a firm favourite, it has this wonderful magnetic power to it, visitors are just drawn to it, it's very different, very unique, it's a pocket of Copenhagen in Penarth. They've also got a large, industrial style bakery where they make and supply all the cafes - they are in Cardiff Bay and Pontcanna too - and they've got a great apprenticeship programme, so it's a very full and complete business that likes to train young people in the industry as well so it's a nice business model." Newly opened restaurant Hickmans has quickly become a favourite with residents (Image: WalesOnline/Rob Browne ) This sense of community and giving something back is another strong pull for people in their desire to move to Penarth, or it's the magnet that keeps them from leaving. John says: " You're never too far away from a friend or a neighbour , and neighbours do tend to get along with each other in a nice, respectful kind of way, like I walked to the office just now and I was stopped several times to have a chat with people, it is that small community feel, you've always got friends and people around you. "There is everything you potentially need in the town but you've also got a capital city a ten minute train ride away. We're super, super lucky, everything on our doorstep." A range of newer properties to discover in the marina area (Image: David Baker & Co, Penarth ) Over the 13 years John and husband Will Summers have lived in Penarth this sense of community has helped them become easily embedded within the town, John designing local publication Penarth View and musician and teacher Will running the local music school called Studio 64. But the couple have also invested in a shared work space called Milkshed Penarth, offering flexible workspaces, hot and fixed desk rental and versatile studio spaces for local businesses as a way to also support local entrepreneurs and start-ups to become established and thrive. Wander along the coastal path to find Willmore's coffee shop (Image: WalesOnline/Rob Browne ) The couple have also seen the town continue to develop its vibe of a vibrant place to call home but also not lose its slower pace of life that so many residents cherish, and this is noticeable even to visitors. John says: " We had a friend visit from London for the weekend and we went into Cardiff and he commented on how lovely it was to have everything the city has to offer very near, but how lovely it was to come back to Penarth and just slow down a little bit again." The seafront includes the distinctive Beachcliffe building of homes and businesses on the ground floor (Image: Jo Ridout, WalesOnline ) One of the most pleasant things to do recommended by John is a walk through and past some of the town's landmark locations. He says: " There's a really nice walk - starting at The Turner House gallery, which is a lovely place to spend some time, and then walking through Alexandra Park down to the sea front, to the pier to have an ice cream." While at this coastal location there's more art and creativity to enjoy at the instantly recognisable and restored 1929 Art Deco pier pavilion building that is home to a gallery, event space, and café that has outdoor as well as indoor seating, plus a choice of snack food and drink outlets along the pier that stretches out into the Bristol Channel. Penarth seafront, where the Moon Mermaids meet every month to enjoy a dip in the sea to celebrate the full moon. (Image: Richard Swingler ) Most people who have visited Penarth head for this stretch of the Welsh coast at some point, for a stroll and a snack or to visit one of the number of restaurants and bars that line the esplanade, or maybe treat themselves to something lovely from the homeware shop Shore, and even end up on the beach having a paddle or skimming pebbles. John suggests then continuing your walk along the esplanade as it joins up with the coastal path, moving away from Cardiff and towards Barry. He says: "Follow the coast path and head up to clifftops and there's a little café there called Willmore's, lovely coffee and homemade cakes as well - it's a really nice walk and if you've got sunny weather it's stunning - it's a little walk along the Welsh Riviera!" Another area of the historic town is the marina that looks out over Cardiff Bay, once a thriving dock and now a place to seek out living in a townhouse or apartment with water views as well as a handy place to moor your boat. The range of unique properties and locations on offer that suits people within different life stages from the marina to traditional terraces, from massive Victorian villas to seafront and bay view apartments - the town appears to be able to satisfy most needs and budgets. Penarth marina with new development above that replaced the derelict Billybanks former estate (Image: Richard Swingler ) Estate agents Richard and Murray both agree that the town will continue to attract new residents and see current Penarth people staying put, either moving up and down the property ladder. Richard says: "The demographics of buyers in Penarth is as broad as the supply of property. At the moment we are very busy with first time buyers and young families upsizing. Older downsizers are still very active too and of course that circle is one that has helped to maintain the market in the town for many, many years." Murray adds: "As Penarth is such a sought after place to live, there are plenty of buyers looking and with more stock available, and as long as homes are priced realistically properties are selling. We are confident this trend will continue over the coming summer months." (Image: WalesOnline/Rob Browne ) So the future looks bright for Penarth regarding property and the special atmosphere and community spirit the town offers buyers, but John can think of a down side to living in Penarth, just one, and that is the number of hills, he laughs: "After a couple of years of living here you'll definitely have stronger gluts." But nothing can make John fall out of love with this special Victorian town. He says: "We've settled in Penarth and we definitely call it our home, it would take a very big life change to ever get us to leave. This town has been our home and our rock for 13 years, we don't envisage leaving, we've got friends here, we've built our businesses here, and we're very fond of the place." For more property stories join our Amazing Welsh Homes Facebook group here Find your own property for sale to create a maximalist haven here: Article continues below
