Latest news with #DenimDeal
Fashion United
04-07-2025
- Business
- Fashion United
Changemakers in fashion (part two): Romain Narcy of Rematters, Ereks Blue Matters and the Denim Deal
There are countless sustainability initiatives, but who in the fashion industry is truly driving the transition, whether their efforts are visible to the general public or not? We interview changemakers, consultants, sustainable fashion experts and activists. What can we learn from their work? In this second instalment, FashionUnited spoke with Romain Narcy, a denim expert turned entrepreneur and sustainability advocate, with over two decades of industry experience. He is the co-founder and CEO of Rematters, a consultancy focused on circular supply chains and textile recycling. Narcy is also a partner and head of strategy and innovation at Ereks-Blue Matters and a key figure in the international Denim Deal initiative. 1. Can you introduce yourself and provide an overview of your professional background and expertise? I'm Romain Narcy, a Frenchman with a background in business administration. Internships and a civil service with Sodexo took me to Turkey in the late 1990s, where I met my future – now current – wife. In 2004, I joined Ereks Blue Matters, my father-in-law's denim production company, where I learned every aspect of garment production and helped grow the client base. Ereks does design to finished garments and exports mainly to the EU and the US, serving brands like Fabienne Chapot, Kings of Indigo, Ralph Lauren and Anine Bing. My focus shifted in 2009, when a client, Stéphane Popescu (then at Bonobo Jeans), asked me if I understood the environmental impact of jeans. I didn't. Once I became aware of the environmental impact, I couldn't continue business as usual. His question led Ereks down the path of more sustainable production, which we have been doing for over fifteen years. Around the same time, in 2012, I joined the Dutch Denim Alliance (the precursor to the Denim Deal). This was our first trial with post-consumer recycled cotton in the production of jeans. 'The COVID-19 pandemic felt like a signal from the planet: 'You're heading straight into the wall—why not change course?' With fashion producing 100 billion garments a year and projections reaching 250 billion by 2030, I decided not to return to production - not even the 'sustainable' kind. In 2023, I co-founded Rematters with Hakan Uçar, a chemical engineer working in textiles. Rematters is a consultancy and engineering company that helps build circular fashion and textile systems by linking ideas to the industry and scaling up innovation and solutions—because we believe scale is essential for impact.' 2. Can you tell us about your current projects, progress and key achievements so far? Currently, we are a team of five people working internationally in countries such as Switzerland, Benin, Ghana, Turkey and France. Rematters advises large fashion and home textile companies on circularity and supports them with data, research and the latest technologies. One of our partners, the US-based Colourizd, has developed a yarn dyeing technology that uses only one litre of water per kilo, compared to the usual one hundred and 50 litres for dyeing wool, and produces no wastewater. Precisely the changemakers we like to support as changemakers. Recent work also includes collecting primary data for lifecycle assessments for Sphera consulting, on behalf of Textile Exchange, on recycled cotton in Bangladesh, Turkey and Pakistan; projects on supply chain decarbonization and textile-based insulation materials. We are also very proud of the feasibility and business case studies we did for Tell-Tex Switzerland to help them finalise their investment in a post-consumer textile recycling hub with a twenty thousand-tonne per year capacity. Since 2020, I have been active in the Dutch Denim Deal, first as a signatory and later as a member of the steering committee. In 2024, together with Nicolas Prophte, I founded the Denim Deal International Foundation to scale the initiative globally. Our mission is to scale circularity in the global denim supply chain by building an inclusive ecosystem, by working with brands, manufacturers, recyclers and innovators from across the globe, not just the West. Today, the Denim Deal has almost 50 members from ten countries, including universities, NGOs, factories, brands and technology providers. What makes this initiative so impactful is that we don't just talk about collaboration, we do it. A key result: a clear rise in jeans made with at least 20 per cent post-consumer recycled cotton.' 3. What is the future of fashion? What opportunities and challenges lie ahead? Leaders in the fashion industry need to be aware that a wave of a wave of regulation is coming fast. Under the EU Green Deal, the textile industry is directly in the spotlight, with the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), carbon taxes, etc. Some measures have been postponed, but they are on their way. Many companies still underestimate the impact this will have on their operations, their supply chains and ultimately their business models. In my opinion, fashion cannot grow and reduce emissions while continuing to produce more. Even with efforts to decarbonise the supply chain, around 70 percent of retail's emissions still come from production. The solution is not just greener factories, but rethinking the entire model. Growth needs to be redefined, with circular strategies such as resale, rental and product-as-a-service at its core. At Rematters, and also via the Denim Deal, we support companies in their transition to circularity. Through the pilots we offer, brands can start to understand what needs to change from a regulatory point of view, what circular design really means and how they can adapt production accordingly. [Denim]( is a great test material: it's iconic, complex and has a high impact. 4. Where does the fashion industry stand today? Is there meaningful change happening and are brands truly aware of what a circular future requires? Circularity will not happen in isolation; it requires active collaboration. Yet many brands are still focused on short-term EBITDA and quarterly results, with some even downsizing their sustainability teams. Fortunately, others, like our client Ralph Lauren, are truly enabling transformation with a long-term vision and support for decarbonisation. We are not at a tipping point yet. The urgency still needs to be stressed multiple times. But I see the glass as half full. We are aware of the problem, now we need to fight for solutions. 5. What concrete steps should fashion leaders take to accelerate meaningful change? First: rethink your business model. Circularity isn't just recycling – it's reduce, reuse , repair , regenerate . Without systemic change, we are just emptying a bathtub with a spoon while the tap is still running. Support innovation. Invest in incubators. Join initiatives like the Apparel Impact Institute or the Good Fashion Fund. Second: I reiterate what manufacturers shared on stage during the Innovation Forum Sustainable Apparel and Textiles Conference in Amsterdam (April 2025): 'The era of one-way supply chains – 'I place the order, you produce' – is over.' A manufacturer is not just someone who makes 5,000 pairs of trousers, for example – it's a community of people in Bangladesh, Pakistan, India, Turkey with deep expertise. With long-term visibility, they can invest in decarbonisation and innovation. Collaboration, co-creation and shared responsibility are the only way forward, especially in a time of global uncertainty. Reshoring of production is increasingly discussed, but that won't work with outdated systems. If we want to bring production back to Europe, we need to innovate in how we make clothes – cutting, sewing, finishing , everything. Disruption is the only way forward. Romain Narcy / Denim Deal archive photo Credits: Denim Deal archive 25 Various stakeholders of the Denim Deal 2.0 at Kingpins Amsterdam in April 2024. Credits: Denim Deal / Nicolas Prophte In the third part of this changemakers interview series, we speak with Saqib Sohail, Lead for Responsible Business Projects at Artistic Milliners, a vertically integrated denim manufacturer headquartered in Pakistan. If you have a recommendation for a strong candidate for this interview series, please do not hesitate to contact us at info@ Sources: - An interview with Romain Narcy, on May 7, 2025. - AI tools were used to transcribe the conversation and assist in simplifying and rephrasing quotes for clarity and readability.
Yahoo
26-06-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Iskur Denim Joins Denim Deal
Turkish textile manufacturer Iskur Denim is the latest mill to join Denim Deal's mission to scale circularity. The vertically integrated company emphasizes eco-friendly practices across all stages of production, making it an ideal partner for Denim Deal. More from Sourcing Journal H&M Foundation-backed Circularity Initiative Expands in India Circulose and Mango Team Up to Scale Circular Cellulose Lenzing's Krishna Manda Addressed Circularity on the Global Fashion Summit Stage Iskur's in-house recycling facility processes pre- and post-consumer waste. The recycling facility has a production capacity of 25.000 kg per day. Iskur reports that with one ton of recycled fiber, up to 4,000 meters of fabric of different compositions can be produced. By integrated fibers like recycled cotton, organic cotton and regenerative cotton, Denim Deal says Iskur aligns with circular design principles. The company also uses an indigo dyeing process that reduces water usage by up to 95 percent and utilizes renewable energy to minimize carbon emissions. Denim Deal is industry-leading initiative committed to standardizing circular practices in denim production. The public and private organization unites brands, manufacturers, recyclers and policymakers in its mission to catalyze the production of 1 billion pairs of jeans containing at least 20 percent post-consumer recycled (PCR) cotton by 2030. Denim Deal provides circular guidelines based on industry feedback and legislative requirements. Members benefit from collaboration, education, exchanging information, action-driven pilots and workshops. A collective effort ensures that no single organization is working in isolation, the organization states. Denim Deal has 50 partners. Mill partners include Bossa, Sharabati, Realteks, Kipas, DNM, Maritas, Naveena and Calik. In March, Denim Deal launched a campaign to grow its membership in France. The organization aims to grow its roster of brand partners.
Yahoo
17-03-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Denim Deal Brings Its Circular Mission to France
Denim Deal, the industry-leading initiative committed to driving circularity in denim established in Amsterdam in 2020, is expanding its reach in Europe. The public and private organization is launching in France, an initiative that targets all players across the French textile supply chain including brands, collection agencies, recyclers and weavers. Denim Deal France aims to promote the integration of post-consumer recycled cotton, strengthen traceability and encourage more responsible production practices across the French supply chain. More from Sourcing Journal Pact Group and BlockTexx Partner on Fashion Recycling in Australia Unifi's Sustainability Report Highlights Circular Fiber Launch No44 Partners With Elleti Group and Re&Up for Circular Program Denim Deal will kick off the effort on March 27 with an event at The Netherlands Embassy in Paris. The event will review Denim Deal's goals, the advantages of joining the collective, testimonials from participants and conversations with industry experts. The event will also highlight the environmental benefits of building circularity into manufacturing processes and how circularity can be achieved without sacrificing durability and quality. 'France is a strategic market for our collaborative platform, building on our success in the Netherlands. With its dynamic denim industry and diverse range of retailers and brands, France presents a unique opportunity for growth. Additionally, the country is at the forefront of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and EU regulations, making it an ideal environment for us to explore and address the operational implications of these regulations with our partners in the industry,' Nicolas Prophte, Denim Deal board member, told SJ Denim. Originally known as the Dutch C-233 Green Deal on Circular Denim, Denim Deal was a pact made between mills, manufacturers, brands and the city of Amsterdam in 2020 to increase the industry's use of recycled content. It ended in 2023 exceeding its goal of producing 3 million pairs of jeans with at least 20 percent post-consumer recycled content. The initiative has evolved, driven by a renewed strategy that involves establishing key regional hubs. With a new goal to produce 1 billion pairs of jeans containing at least 20 percent PCR by 2030, Denim Deal is focused on growing brand memberships, as they're in the driver seat to achieve its goal. 'We are confident that our expansion strategy, starting with France and extending to Germany, will create a resilient platform in Europe. Together, we can tackle significant challenges related to circular business models and compliance with EU regulations while simultaneously offering consumers a desirable pair of jeans,' Prophte said. In September, the organization released its first list of members (mostly denim mills) since spinning off from the Dutch framework. It also unveiled a collection of Denim Deal approved fabrics that contain a minimum of 20 percent PCR cotton and adhere to the group's guidelines for quality and durability.
Yahoo
12-03-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Denim Deal France sets stage for sustainable change in textile industry
This planned expansion of the initiative follows its successful implementation and achievements in the Netherlands. The Denim Deal took shape when 30 brands and industry organisations collaborated with Amsterdam's municipal government and the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water Management to make denim textile chain more sustainable. The collaboration culminated in a formal agreement in 2020. The initiative's objectives include increasing the use of post-consumer recycled cotton, enhancing traceability, and encouraging sustainable production methods. The Netherlands Embassy in Paris will host the inaugural event for Denim Deal France on 27 March 2025. This event represents a significant opportunity to engage entities such as brands, sorting and collection agencies, recycling firms, weaving companies, and other critical components of the supply chain. The launch event of Denim Deal France will focus on several key points including: - The ambitions and commitments underlying the Denim Deal - The advantages of joining the initiative and the prerequisites for participation - Testimonials from participants in the Dutch Denim Deal - Discussions with industry experts and leading figures Denim, an enduring representation of fashion, now faces a significant challenge: minimising its environmental footprint and fully embracing a circular model. The Denim Deal is committed to establishing a genuinely circular supply chain both within Europe and globally. It aims to produce over one billion jeans under this model by 2030. To reach this milestone, the programme focuses on tangible commitments such as encouraging the integration of recycled cotton in new jeans manufacturing and enhancing product lifecycle traceability, minimising denim's environmental impact throughout its production process It also seeks to prolong product lifespan to foster sustainable fashion. Entities participating in the Denim Deal will have access to expert guidance on textile recycling, traceability, eco-design and to exclusive materials, webinars, and best practices. They will also benefit from a network of dedicated members for sharing opportunities and innovations. In addition, participants will gain from heightened visibility among consumers and business partners as well as a proactive stance on regulatory developments through collective strength. "Denim Deal France sets stage for sustainable change in textile industry" was originally created and published by Just Style, a GlobalData owned brand. The information on this site has been included in good faith for general informational purposes only. It is not intended to amount to advice on which you should rely, and we give no representation, warranty or guarantee, whether express or implied as to its accuracy or completeness. You must obtain professional or specialist advice before taking, or refraining from, any action on the basis of the content on our site.
