2 days ago
Xlim: Rising Action
This article originally appeared in Hypebeast Magazine Issue 35: The Wavelength Issue.
Founded in 2021 by Dohee Kim as a collective of 'creators,' Seoul-based XLIM uses cinematic terminology like 'Episodes' and 'Synopses' to name its ever-growing breadth of collections. Borrowing from Kim's time studying film at university, the language captures an ethos of continuous change and evolution.
Combining technical functionality with distinctive patinated finishes, XLIM's garments straddle the tension between the futuristic and the familiar. In XLIM's recent Episode 7 collection, nylon is weathered with crackled wax coatings, natural fibers like linen coexist with performance fabrics, and gauzy panels are paired with opaque textiles. The brand also began incorporating craft-forward home goods, including Episode 7's rusticated dinnerware and Episode 6's upcycled denim-covered vases. Kim says these tendencies reflect a core philosophy of 'making the familiar feel new and the unfamiliar feel natural.'
Proudly citing contemporaries like HYEIN SEO, POST ARCHIVE FACTION, JiyongKim, and JUNTAE KIM, the founder sees XLIM as part of a greater whole, encompassing South Korea's burgeoning creative scene. 'We continue to evolve within this same wave, striving to present fresh work that embodies the essence of Korea while pushing creative boundaries,' he says.
More than being merely centered on fashion, Kim says his practice is about 'conveying the essence of XLIM through various mediums.' In a similar vein, Kim emphasizes that rather than being the fruit of his sole efforts, XLIM is a product of the many who contribute to its ongoing story. 'It's never about one person's design or success,' he says. 'It's always about what we've built together.'
Can you tell us more about the meaning behind XLIM's name and the brand's creative intentions?
Dohee Kim: XLIM is a name created by combining X with LIM — short for limit — to represent the idea of pushing beyond boundaries and exploring endless possibilities. It's not just about fashion, it extends into lifestyle and everyday experiences, all shaped in a way that feels uniquely ours. At the heart of XLIM is the philosophy of 'making the familiar feel new and the unfamiliar feel natural.' Everything we create is built on this idea, offering fresh yet effortlessly-immersive experiences.
Rather than placing an individual at the front of the brand, XLIM is self-described as a group of 'creators.' How many members are in the collective, and how does the collective aspect inform the label's approach to design?
I don't think of XLIM as solely 'my' company simply because I founded it. I truly believe that both XLIM and I are here today because of the many individuals who have contributed along the way. This belief is fundamental to me.
XLIM comprises 12 members, divided into four teams: design, operations, development, and content. While we have these defined roles, we come from different generations and diverse backgrounds. That's why we strongly emphasize open discussions, ensuring that every creation reflects a mix of our perspectives. This collaborative process is something I deeply value. When a project is completed, it's never about one person's design or success. It's always about what we've built together.
How have the brand's roots in Seoul influenced XLIM's visual identity? What else has informed the company's aesthetic approach?
Seoul is the fastest-changing city I've ever experienced. Having traveled to many countries and gained various experiences, I've realized there's no place like Korea — where change happens so quickly, and it doesn't take long to get accustomed to it. This rapid pace is a great source of motivation for me, and I think it's one of the most distinctly Korean cultural traits. That's why, at XLIM, we focus on the main 'Episodes' and use 'Synopses' to continuously release various products, keeping things fresh and providing our audience with a sense of novelty.
Could you tell us more about your use of the terms 'Episodes' and 'Synopses' to describe your collections?
I studied film before starting the brand, and it was there that I first encountered the terms. They were the most fitting when it came to explaining something in detail. In today's world, we constantly need to offer new experiences because people crave novelty and want to feel continuous change and evolution.
Technical gear and workwear are at the core of most of your collections. Can you discuss the brand's interest in exploring this real of design? What makes your approach to workwear distinct from other labels exploring these tropes?
Rather than simply following external trends or focusing on aesthetics, we wanted to design practical clothing that brings a new kind of joy and experience to those who wear it. We reinterpret technical gear and workwear in a way unique to XLIM, offering both familiar and refreshing designs. This approach gives people a natural opportunity to blend function and style in their everyday lives. To support this vision, we develop our own fabrics, allowing us to create innovative designs from the ground up.
You often combine durable technical fabrics with delicate materials like translucent gauze and mesh. Where does this dynamic approach to materiality stem from, and why does mixing materials like this appeal to you?
At XLIM, we wanted to incorporate functional elements like breathability into our designs in a way that feels unique to our brand. The reason that we combine technical fabrics with delicate materials is to create that distinctiveness. When people wear our pieces, the functional aspects may feel familiar, but the combination will give them a sense of something new and unexpected. These elements are what make XLIM's aesthetic stand out.
Can you highlight a few favorite designs from the past couple years and explain how they represent XLIM's overall aesthetic and creative mission?
The dinner set and vase that we recently released are some of my favorites. I wanted them to blend naturally into people's homes and spaces. Our focus has always been on creating not just fashion, but also items that can be part of everyday life — things that people can see and use in their daily surroundings. This has been a key goal of ours with every new episode we create.
How does XLIM balance building upon themes from previous 'Episodes' while drawing from new sources of inspiration?
Before creating each episode, we have a lot of discussions with the team. We talk about recent experiences that have left an impression on us, and what we're currently interested in. Through these conversations, we gain new ideas and inspiration. Social and cultural changes, along with personal experiences, have a significant impact on us. While respecting the themes and designs we've created in the past, we also try to reflect new stimuli and the flow of time. Our approach is to preserve the essence of what we've done while slowly introducing new elements to evolve.
It's been four years since XLIM was founded, but the brand has garnered fans across the globe and even opened its first store in Seoul in 2024. What qualities make XLIM popular internationally?
It's not just about fashion but about conveying the essence of XLIM through various mediums. I'd love to take our store in Seoul further by transforming it into a space that combines fashion with a bar or cafe. It would be more than just a place to shop — it would be a space where people can experience the culture of XLIM firsthand.
Is there anything you'd like to add about XLIM, whether its artistic ambitions or the future of the label?
One of my main goals is to partner with some of my favorite restaurants, but not only in the traditional sense of creating clothing. I want to collaborate with them on new menus and pair them with XLIM's unique dinner sets, creating a new way for people to engage with our not just about making products; it's about integrating our creations into everyday life and fostering a deeper connection with people. By offering experiences through food and conversation, I hope to share XLIM's philosophy in a more personal way, continuing to expand the brand beyond fashion.
