6 days ago
San Francisco chef faces tariffs, fears of ICE raids while fighting to preserve Oaxacan culture
Isai Cuevas has come a long way from his days as a dishwasher.
Now the proud chef and owner of Donaji, a Oaxacan restaurant in San Francisco's Mission District, Cuevas said quality has always been a priority. But between the struggles brought on by COVID-19 and now rising tariffs, he's growing increasingly concerned.
"To-go stuff comes from overseas, most of them, and we got hit — that, the tariffs. We are a Mexican restaurant — avocados, limes — that's another thing that could affect us," Cuevas said.
He's referring to a 30% tariff on Mexican imports set to go into effect on Aug. 1. Even as he braces for the economic hit, Cuevas said he's doing everything possible to keep prices reasonable for his guests.
"We are just trying to balance it out. We are in a neighborhood, the Mission, which is Latino. We just don't want to be expensive for people. We are just trying to manage the prices as best as we can," he said.
Cuevas believes the only way to make that happen is to bring more people into the restaurant. Despite Donaji being featured in the Michelin Guide, he's noticed fewer guests — a drop he attributes to fear following recent ICE raids across California.
"I can see it because there are not much Latinos getting out, eating. We are just like, not comfortable. We are not comfortable going out. We are not comfortable right now with the scenario that is happening," Cuevas said.
But no matter the mounting pressures, he refuses to compromise the quality of his dishes. From fresh Oaxacan cheese to flavorful moles, Cuevas said he's proud to share his heritage.
"Great food, great environment, and I think that's one more thing that I want to keep alive, is our culture, our traditions. And the only way to do it is just doing it and sharing it with people — to keep it alive," he said.
For Isai Cuevas, this isn't just about keeping a restaurant open, it's about keeping a culture and a community thriving.
