Latest news with #DovCharney
IOL News
08-07-2025
- Business
- IOL News
Dov Charney's American Apparel: a 'Trainwreck' of cult fashion and its hidden costs
American Apparel founder and CEO Dov Charney. Image: X/@Complex Netflix's "Trainwreck" docuseries has me in a chokehold, okay? From cruise ships turned floating toilets to festivals that never were, this series is my kind of chaotic binge. But the recent release of "Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel" really got me spiralling. It's giving fashion fever, cult realness and one of the most problematic CEOs to ever sit in an open-plan office. Welcome to the world of Dov Charney - or as I like to call him, the man who turned a T-shirt into a movement and himself into a menace. American Apparel wasn't just another clothing brand in the 2000s. It was the brand. Everyone wanted in. It was quirky, it was edgy and it made basics look like runway statements. Video Player is loading. Play Video Play Unmute Current Time 0:00 / Duration -:- Loaded : 0% Stream Type LIVE Seek to live, currently behind live LIVE Remaining Time - 0:00 This is a modal window. Beginning of dialog window. 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Text Color White Black Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Transparency Opaque Semi-Transparent Background Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Transparency Opaque Semi-Transparent Transparent Window Color Black White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta Cyan Transparency Transparent Semi-Transparent Opaque Font Size 50% 75% 100% 125% 150% 175% 200% 300% 400% Text Edge Style None Raised Depressed Uniform Dropshadow Font Family Proportional Sans-Serif Monospace Sans-Serif Proportional Serif Monospace Serif Casual Script Small Caps Reset restore all settings to the default values Done Close Modal Dialog End of dialog window. Next Stay Close ✕ The kind of place that, rumour has it, even opened up after hours just for Beyoncé to shop in peace. That's how hot this label was. From teen Tumblr girls to A-list celebs, the whole world was romanced by cotton bodycon and neon gym shorts. But like every cult, there's a "visionary" behind the madness, and in this case, it was Charney. The man, the myth, the narcissist. There's a whole science to spotting cult leaders and he ticked all the boxes: manipulative charm, God complex, blurred boundaries, obsession with loyalty and of course, building an identity-driven brand that made people feel 'chosen'. One former employee said working there was like being pulled in by a 'light'. Yeah… red flag much? He wanted to break down fashion norms, and, at first, he did. He pushed boundaries, hired people based on their 'weirdo club' vibe and didn't shy away from provocative ads. Actually, let me rephrase, he didn't shy away from straight-up soft porn. Think open-legged poses, oiled-up bodies and barely-there clothing sold as 'expression'. I'm sorry but since when did fashion mean flashing your bits on a billboard? And it worked for a while. American Apparel blew up. The mid-2000s were a perfect time: Facebook was booming, hipsters ruled the streets and being 'edgy' sold like soet koek (sweet cake). But behind the porno posters and sexy slogans, the company was starting to rot from within. The documentary tracks the rise and fall of American Apparel and its CEO from the company's inception. Image: X/@NewOnNetflixUK The work environment, surprise surprise, was a disaster. Staff were either living with Charney or desperately trying to avoid him. He ran the place like a cult compound. Sexual tension and actual misconduct were woven into the company culture. He slept with employees, labelled staff 'fools of the week' if stores didn't perform and had a toxic habit of pitting workers against each other. Classic 'I'm not abusing you, I'm helping you grow' energy. Eventually, the stories could no longer be ignored. By the 2010s, American Apparel was collapsing under the weight of Charney's scandals, from mistreatment of staff and exploitation of undocumented workers to multiple allegations of sexual assault. Women came forward, brave enough to tell their stories in the documentary. You'd think that would be the end, right? Wrong. Like most of these toxic fashion tales (yes, I'm referring to Balenciaga), the consequences were … underwhelming. Remember the child exploitation scandal? Disturbing reports, and global outrage, and yet the brand is still thriving. Celebs are still wearing it like nothing ever happened. The bar is so low it's underground. And Charney didn't vanish into obscurity. Nope. He's back on the scene launching Los Angeles Apparel and helping out on Yeezy, Ye's (Kanye West) brand. Oh, and he proudly printed the 'White Lives Matter' T-shirts. So subtle. As for American Apparel, it was eventually bought out by a Canadian company and relaunched just before the pandemic. A quieter reboot for a brand once fuelled by controversy and cultish devotion. This documentary is a much-needed exposé on how fast fashion - literally and figuratively - can swallow people whole.
Graziadaily
04-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Graziadaily
What Happened Behind Closed Doors At Cult Clothing Chain, American Apparel? Netflix Uncovers
Given that leggings haven't been en vogue for more than 10 years and American Apparel storefronts have been absent from UK high streets since 2017, it's easy to forget what a chokehold the shop had on noughties and 2010s culture. From skater dresses to nylon disco pants, the clothing brand had a way of marketing '80s-inspired gym gear as 'wardrobe staples' and we all lapped it up. Now, though, a new Netflix documentary as part of the Trainwreck series exposes the darker side of the clothing empire – including how founder, CEO and chairman Dov Charney allegedly encouraged sexually explicit behaviour in the workplace and routinely violated boundaries. The American Apparel tote bag in 2016 in Tokyo. (Photo by Onnie A. Koski/Getty Images) American Apparel first opened its doors in 1989 and proudly claimed its clothes were 'sweat shop free' and made in the US and that employees were paid well over the minimum wage. Over time it became known for its risqué clothing adverts where models were often seen posing with their legs apart or almost nude – many of which were shot by the founder himself. It arrived in the UK in 2004 and became an immensely popular signal of the 'indie sleaze' sartorial movement. However, 10 years later in 2014 Charney was ousted after allegations of misconduct and inappropriate behaviour towards employees. In 2011, five former American Apparel employees filed sexual harassment lawsuits against the entrepreneur. Because three of those cases were cleared by a judge and two went to arbitration, he was never found liable. While Charney has repeatedly denied the allegations of harassment, he also said 'sleeping with people you work with is unavoidable'. Speaking to The Guardian in 2017, he said, 'I never had a romantic relationship with a factory worker. Ever! It wouldn't be possible! But a creative equal? Yeah! And if anything, I'll tell you, I don't know who was the predator – you know what I'm saying?' As for his dismissal at work, Charney claimed his ousting was illegal and demanded reinstatement. However, he was later replaced with Paula Schneider. By 2015, American Apparel was facing bankruptcy. In 2016, the company rejected a $300 million takeover bid from Hagan Capital Group and Silver Creek, two investment firms aligned with Charney. In January 2017, it was acquired for $88 million by Canadian sportswear manufacturer Gildan Activewear. American Apparel still exists online today. American Apparel founder Dov Charney. (Photo by Steve Eichner/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images) In the new Netflix documentary, former employees alleged that new hires were given a 'welcome bag' containing a vibrator, a book called The 48 Laws of Power, a Leica camera and a Blackberry so that they would always be on call. Charney is shown to be an overpowering figure with little regard for the feelings and boundaries of his staff. It also showed archival footage of the former founder Charney walking around the factory naked in front of female employees. Other employees in the documentary claimed Charney often wanted to conduct business in his private home – one man called Jonny Makeup actually lived there too. It was described as a 'playboy mansion for hipsters'. Makeup told the filmmakers, 'I'll probably be in therapy until the day that I die.' The episode also featured employment and civil rights lawyer Toni Jaramilla who spoke about working with several women who claim they experienced sexual harassment while working for Charney at American Apparel. They signed non disclosure agreements to not comment on Charney or the clothing brand, however some allegations were leaked, so the Netflix special uses voice actors to read excerpts from their complaints. One claims Charney invited 18-year-olds to his bedroom and used to walk around in front of employees in a towel. Aside from allegations of sexually inappropriate conduct, the documentary heard that Charney regularly abused his power too. One employee named Carson said Charney once called him at around midnight and said, 'I hate you! I hate you!' over and over again, before hanging up. 'That was a regular day at American Apparel,' Carson explained, adding that he sometimes worked 36-hour shifts. There are also clips featured in the documentary where Charney can be heard calling his employees 'morons' and 'dummies'. Charney denies all allegations. It ends with archival footage of him saying, 'I'm not sorry about shit', in an interview with VICE. A spokesperson for Charney said: 'Charney has never been found liable for any misconduct — sexual harassment or otherwise — by any judge, jury, arbitrator, or independent investigation. Unfortunately, the Netflix documentary grossly misrepresents the story of American Apparel and Charney, relying on paid actors to emotionally restate long-disproven allegations.' The statement continues, 'No credible insiders — including Charney himself — participated in the production. One can only hope the full, unvarnished story of American Apparel and the forces behind its downfall will one day be told.' Charney swiftly founded another clothing manufacturer, Los Angeles Apparel, in 2016 which sold similar products to the original and operated from the same factory. However, when the pandemic took hold in 2020, Charney reimagined the business and started selling face masks and medical gowns. By June, he was condemned by public health officials and CBS News reported that Los Angeles Apparel got shut down for 'flagrant violations of mandatory public health infection control orders'. Charney then found a loophole and reopened the factory as an essential business, keeping employees at work, which sadly led to a large Covid outbreak and four employees died. He filed for bankruptcy in 2022, owing $30 million (£21m) to a hedge fund associated with his original brand American Apparel. According to Bloomberg, his debts and assets reached $50 million (£36m) each. According to the documentary, he then began working on Kanye West's fashion brand, Yeezy. Rolling Stone reported that Charney printed West's controversial 'White Lives Matter' T-shirts in 2022. Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel is available to stream on Netflix now. Nikki Peach is a writer at Grazia UK, working across entertainment, TV and news. She has also written for the i, i-D and the New Statesman Media Group and covers all things pop culture for Grazia (treating high and lowbrow with equal respect).
Graziadaily
04-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Graziadaily
Who Is Dov Charney? Former American Apparel CEO And Subject Of Trainwreck Netflix Documentary
As the subject of the latest Netflix documentary, Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel , its founder and former CEO Dov Charney has become a global talking point. He was axed from the top job in 2014 following allegations of misconduct in the workplace and the documentary serves to expose the darker side of the cult brand. But who was the man behind American Apparel? What was he accused of? And where is he now? Read on to find out. Dov Charney is an Canadian entrepreneur who grew up in Montreal to architect and artist parents. He started American Apparel, famed for its nylon '80s-inspired 'basics', in 1989 in South Carolina after dropping out of college and borrowing $10,000 from his parents. Charney later expanded the store to multiple countries around the world, including the UK, but was fired in 2014 after facing allegations of sexual assault and harassment, which he denies. Charney subsequently founded Los Angeles Apparel. The original brand is still available to shop online. In the new Netflix documentary, Charney is shown to be an overpowering figure with little regard for the feelings and boundaries of his staff. It showed archival footage of him walking around the factory naked in front of female employees. Former employees claimed Charney often wanted to conduct business in his private home, which was described as a 'playboy mansion for hipsters', and one former staff member called Jonny Makeup lived there too. Makeup told the filmmakers, 'I'll probably be in therapy until the day that I die.' The episode also featured employment and civil rights lawyer Toni Jaramilla who spoke about working with several women who claim they experienced sexual harassment while working for Charney at American Apparel. They signed non disclosure agreements to not comment on Charney or the clothing brand, however some allegations were leaked, so the Netflix special uses voice actors to read excerpts from their complaints. One claims Charney invited 18-year-olds to his bedroom and used to walk around in front of employees in a towel. Aside from allegations of sexually inappropriate conduct, the documentary heard that Charney regularly abused his power too. One employee named Carson said Charney once called him at around midnight and said, 'I hate you! I hate you!' over and over again, before hanging up. 'That was a regular day at American Apparel,' Carson explained, adding that he sometimes worked 36-hour shifts. There are also clips featured in the documentary where Charney can be heard calling his employees 'morons' and 'dummies'. Charney denies all allegations. It ends with archival footage of him saying, 'I'm not sorry about shit', from a 2017 interview with VICE. A spokesperson for Charney said: 'Charney has never been found liable for any misconduct — sexual harassment or otherwise — by any judge, jury, arbitrator, or independent investigation. Unfortunately, the Netflix documentary grossly misrepresents the story of American Apparel and Charney, relying on paid actors to emotionally restate long-disproven allegations.' The statement continues, 'No credible insiders — including Charney himself — participated in the production. One can only hope the full, unvarnished story of American Apparel and the forces behind its downfall will one day be told.' Charney reportedly lives in a mansion in Silver Lake called Garbutt House. Two years after he was fired from American Apparel, Charney launched the almost identical brand, Los Angeles Apparel. He sold the same 'basics' and even built the new company from the original American Apparel warehouse. 'We had six sewing machines, then 12 machines. It was a nail-biter,' Charney said in 2017. 'It still is a nail-biter. That's part of the chills and thrills of starting up a business. You're always on edge, but I love it. The workers are happy. It's exciting. We want to prove something.' However, when the pandemic took hold in 2020, Charney reimagined the business and started selling face masks and medical gowns. By June, he was condemned by public health officials and CBS News reported that Los Angeles Apparel got shut down for 'flagrant violations of mandatory public health infection control orders'. Charney then found a loophole and reopened the factory as an essential business, keeping employees at work, which sadly led to a large Covid outbreak and four employees died. He filed for bankruptcy in 2022, owing $30 million (£21m) to a hedge fund associated with his original brand American Apparel. According to Bloomberg, his debts and assets reached $50 million (£36m) each. The Cult of American Apparel documentary alleged that Charney was also hired to work as the CEO of Kanye West's clothing line Yeezy. In 2023, Rolling Stone reported that the former American Apparel head created the West's controversial 'White Lives Matter' t-shirts the year prior. It is unclear from what's available online whether Charney is in a relationship or has any children. Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel is available to stream on Netflix now.
Cosmopolitan
02-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Cosmopolitan
5 American Apparel items to dig out to channel indie sleaze, from disco pants to oversize hoodies
Charting the meteoric rise and fall of America's fastest growing retailer in the late 2000s and early 2010s, Netflix's Trainwreck: The Cult of American Apparel dropped on the streaming site on 1 July and immediately landed in the number one spot of the top 10 movies in the UK. The documentary depicted some truly shocking scenes, like the brand's founder, Dov Charney, repeatedly hurling verbal abuse at anyone within sight and running around completely naked while two female staff members were in the same room. The 54-minute watch also revealed the extent of the company's toxic work culture, with former employees sharing the contents of their 'starter kit' – a camera, a Blackberry phone and a vibrator – along with multiple accounts of sexual assault levied against the founder brought together in the public domain for the first time. Such behaviour is described by these employees as an open secret, overshadowed by the immense popularity of the clothing. An answer as to how Charney was able to get away with it for so long. In hindsight, the clues were there, not least in the ad campaigns that were repeatedly critiqued for overt sexualisation, depicting scantily clad models in provocative poses. Or the fact that the media dubbed Charney the 'King of Sleaze.' A nickname referencing the It brand's status as spearheading the indie sleaze aesthetic, but easily applicable in alternative definitions of the term, too. Despite never facing any allegations of abuse in a public court, Charney was fired from American Apparel in 2014 following multiple misconduct accusations. The company appointed new management before filing for bankruptcy and being sold, and while it still exists online, it is incomparable to what it was in its heyday. However, indie sleaze is in the midst of a revival. From 2024's Brat summer to an Oasis reunion, fashion is following suit and the brand's legacy can't be missed. Just look to Addison Rae, who dons an American Apparel-coded purple zip-up hoodie in the music video for 'Headphones On' that is full of countless other Y2K signifiers. Yep, the clothes themselves – basics in simple silhouettes, devoid of logos and available in every colour of the rainbow at a mid-tier price point – seem to be having a resurgence and hold a nostalgic place in many people's wardrobes from that time. Cosmo UK Bookings Director, Sophie Leen, remembers wearing an American Apparel dress to her prom, while other members of the team recount living in their bodysuits or V-neck t-shirts. Even if you didn't have anything from the retailer (me, despite desperately lusting after a pair of shiny black disco pants), the brand's impact was unavoidable. There was even a celebrity fanbase! Per the documentary, Beyoncé reportedly closed down the stores late at night to allow her to shop privately, while Rihanna and Britney Spears received custom American Apparel designs. Whether you've kept hold of pieces long buried at the back of your wardrobe, or you're planning on turning to second-hand shopping sites for OG items, consider this your sign to dig out your disco pants and oversized sweatshirts ASAP. Olivia Rodrigo wore American Apparel's blue pleated tennis skirt as recently as 2021 and it has also been spotted on other celebrities, including Zoe Kravitz, Vanessa Hudgens and Dove Cameron. Loved by the likes of Mary Kate Olsen and Lady Gaga at its peak, it felt like everyone had an American Apparel hoodie. The zip-up style is due for a resurgence IMO, replacing the crew-neck jumper as a basic layer of choice. Selena Gomez, Ariana Grande and Lily-Rose Depp all wore bodysuits of varying designs on rotation. We ditched these due to their impracticality (the effort of having to go to the loo...), but we could be tempted to reintroduce them into our daily 'fits for the smooth line they created, unlike tucking in bulky tops and knits to waistbands. The sheer number of advertisements for disco pants along with the endless colours they seemed to come in made these a cult buy. Plus, Kim Kardashian had a pair (hers were white, FYI). Sure, trends have steered away from skinnies for a while now, so a sharp U-turn back to the figure-hugging silhouette feels inevitable. A corduroy mini skirt feels like a niche item, but it was another must-have staple from American Apparel in 2009. Even Camila Mendes had one! If the tennis style isn't for you, you can't go wrong with this button-down design instead. Follow Alex on Instagram. Alexandria Dale is the Digital Fashion Writer at Cosmopolitan UK. Covering everything from the celebrity style moments worth knowing about to the latest fashion news, there's nothing she loves more than finding a high street dupe of a must-have designer item. As well as discovering new brands, she's passionate about sustainable fashion and establishing the trends that are actually worth investing in. Having worked in fashion journalism for six years, she has experience at both digital and print publications including Glamour and Ok!
Cosmopolitan
02-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Cosmopolitan
The true story of what happened to American Apparel, after its CEO left amidst flurry of scandal
Thanks to TikTok, the obsession with 'indie sleaze' is back – and for those who actually lived through the scene in the noughties, American Apparel was a core part of the fashion at the time. One of the fastest growing retail outlets of the nineties and noughties, American Apparel was known for its wide variety of basics in pretty much every colour known to man – along with their high-waist disco pants, ubiquitous on nights out and at house parties. However, American Apparel seemingly disappeared as quickly as it arrived; after its flamboyant CEO (and 'face' of the brand) Dov Charney was ousted by the brand's board in 2014, after a series of allegations of misconduct (which he has denied), the company plunged into freefall. Shops shuttered across the globe (with its final UK branch, in Camden, London, closing in 2017). The latest episode of Netflix's popular documentary series Trainwreck explores the weird world of American Apparel, with former store workers revealing just how they were treated by Charney – and how the store changed their lives (not always for the better). Here, we examine what happened to American Apparel – and whether it ever really recovered from the scandal it was mired in. American Apparel courted controversy from its inception in 1989. When it started, Charney initially used to sell his merchandise wholesale, before dominating the retail market. What made it stand out from competitors was how all the clothing was made in American factories, which made it quicker and cheaper than other outlets, which often relied on clothes produced in factories abroad at a cheaper cost. It was when American Apparel launched as a retail shop in its own name that the brand gained widespread attention; advertising was often sexually suggestive and provocative. As well as using models, American Apparel got its staff to showcase their clothes (Charney also appeared in some advertisements), as well as using porn stars for some ad campaigns. 'I do think there's something to be said for photography that challenges cultural norms, that challenges what people think are right and wrong,' Charney said in a previous interview. 'People are going to buy into authenticity. It's not like everybody likes 'Walt Disney' perfect. The imperfect is often more appreciated than the perfect.' However, many of the advertisements used to promote the brand were banned for being voyeuristic or provocative. The sexualized imagery of American Apparel extends well beyond the advertising. After Charney was ousted as CEO in 2014, the Los Angeles Times revealed a disturbing number of allegations regarding Charney's conduct while running the company. Charney was alleged to have told accounting employees that they were 'Filipino pigs… with your faces in the trough', as well as miming holding a shotgun to an employee's forehead. Other accusations include storing footage on company equipment of himself having sex with models and employees, as well as sending sexually graphic texts to people he worked with. Lawyers on behalf of Charney denied all allegations, and pointed towards harassment lawsuits that had previously been filed by five former employers in 2011 all being dismissed or going into arbitration. Charney has always denied all allegations of misconduct, and has never faced trial over anything he has been accused of. With the company mired in scandal, American Apparel never seemed to really recover. Faced with an increasingly challenging space in the retail market, the company (now led by fashion executive Paula Schneider) filed for bankruptcy in October 2015. A takeover bid in 2016 by Hagan Capital Group and Silver Creek (two investment firms thought to be aligned with Charney) was rejected. Having first opened in London in 2004, with further stores opening across the country, American Apparel's financial woes saw 12 out of its 13 shops forced to close in December 2016. Its final store, in Camden, North London, shuttered for good in 2017. Yes and no. American Apparel was bought for $88 million (£64 million) in 2017 by Canadian sportswear manufacturer Gildan Activewear. The new owners decided to close all 281 stores and relaunched American Apparel as an online only brand in 2017. The website claims American Apparel is 'committed to leading ethical and sustainable practices'. Elsewhere, Charney is still working in the fashion industry. In 2016, he founded Los Angeles Apparel, which looks to replicate the early success of American Apparel. On Instagram, Charney confirmed that a Los Angeles Apparel store will be opening in New York City later in 2025. He has also worked alongside Kanye West and his Yeezy brand in 2023, but distanced himself from the singer after West made a string of antisemitic comments. Kimberley Bond is a Multiplatform Writer for Harper's Bazaar, focusing on the arts, culture, careers and lifestyle. She previously worked as a Features Writer for Cosmopolitan UK, and has bylines at The Telegraph, The Independent and British Vogue among countless others.
