Latest news with #Ducasse
National Geographic
08-07-2025
- National Geographic
The centuries-old practice that's turning Scotland into a foodie paradise
In 2023, chef Alain Ducasse sought out Scottish harvester and fisherman Benjamin Lalande for his sustainable seafood products from the Hebrides in Scotland. Two of his chefs visited Lalande on the Isle of Rum—one of the islands that make up the Small Isles in the Inner Hebrides—where they sampled one of Ducasse's requested ingredients: wild pepper dulse. 'This seaweed tastes like truffles,' says Lalande. It ended up on Ducasse's Les Ombres , the quintessential venue overlooking Paris' Eiffel Tower. Now, Lalande's supplying over a dozen Michelin-starred Scottish restaurants led by local chefs. 'The breathtaking landscapes of Scotland are renowned, less so the food,' says Catherine Reilly, managing director of Brendan Vacations . Yet, she adds that this is changing as chefs are 'using the incredible larder on their doorsteps to bring the taste of the place to a new level by living off the land and foraging in their local area.' This growing interest in coastal foraging is helping to redefine the countries' culinary stereotype; today's first-time visitors will be pleasantly surprised to discover the plethora of local seafood presented from Loch Sligachan scallops and North Sea crab to seaweed and sea urchins from the Small Isles archipelago. What is coastal foraging A shrubbery fork, or a clam fork, is used to dig for clams. Photograph by Daniel J. Grenier, Getty Images Foraging is a centuries' old gathering method of seasonal and wild-growing resources that's witnessed a resurgence thanks to social trends like self-sufficiency and experiential dining. Coastal foraging focuses on collecting edible sustenance, but from oceanfront environments, like estuaries, sand dunes, tide pools, and marshlands. Mark Donald, executive chef at the two-Michelin-starred Glenturret Lalique Restaurant , recalls his first brush with coastal foraging as a young boy sifting through the muddy tidal flats of Barra to collect cockles with his family; they'd simply steam the marine bivalve mollusc with a splash of wine, beer, cider, or vinegar, some garlic and parsley. His first professional use of coastal-sourced ingredients was on the line at the two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Andrew Fairlie in Auchterarder; sea purslane, a coastal perennial herb, and sea aster, a salt marsh succulent, added flavor and texture to a turbot dish. 'As a junior chef, foraged ingredients were much less prevalent than they are now,' he says, crediting the new Nordic movement as a spur for Scottish chefs to explore the ingredients they've had on their doorstep for hundreds of years. Now, Lalande is one of his suppliers. (Fishing and foraging in Norway's southern fjords) Popularly foraged ingredients Coastal-foraged ingredients encompass anything from salt tolerant vegetation like sea buckthorn to underwater invertebrates like sea urchins, yet some items are more prevalent than others. Seaweed, for example, has become popular thanks to an interest in Japanese cuisine, says Donald. Each species offers a singular taste that can range from familiar flavors like the umami truffle of pepper dulse, green bean notes of oarweed, and toasted hazelnut of red dulse, all while offering a fresh salinity that comes from being freshly plucked from the sea. Historically, the Scots haven't eaten seaweed because it wasn't processed well, explains Lalande, who currently harvests one-to-three kilograms of fresh seaweed per week. (Want to try foraging food? Here's how to do it safely) Sea buckthorn, an invasive coastal shrub, is also prolific. In Edinburgh, Jo Radford, owner of the Michelin-starred Timberyard , praises sea buckthorn for its color, health benefits, and acidity. He treats the leaves like a tea and uses the juice of its berries in sorbet, beurre blanc-like sauces, or to replace lime in a classic gin gimlet. Lee Soutar, chef at Dornoch Station , is also attracted to the sea buckthorn berry's 'citrusy but extremely tart flavor." Pelvetia Canaliculata, also known as channelled wrack seaweed, has a mild umami flavor. Photograph by John F. Scott, Getty Images Crambe maritima, also known as sea kale, has a slightly nutty taste. Photograph by Wilopix, Shutterstock Hippophae rhamnoides, also known as sea buckthorn, is a type of berry. Photograph by Pat Sprada, Shutterstock Palmaria palmata, also known as dulse or red dulse, is a type of red algae. Photography by MD_Photography, Shutterstock 'Most things wild-growing that are edible are generally packed with health benefits,' says James Aikman, chef-owner of Skua in Edinburgh. Aside from flavor and health benefits, scurvy grass, sea sandwort, and sea kale are used for texture and complexity. 'They don't always appear front and center on dishes but quite often do a lot of the work behind the scenes: Adding depth to sauces and stocks,' says Radford. When it comes to proteins, Scottish scallops, langoustines, and lobsters frequently appear on menus, too. At The Macallan Estate's new TimeSpirit fine dining experience, head chef Armand Lacan highlights the quality of lobster from the North Sea. 'Having experienced culinary traditions globally, I can attest to the exceptional quality of Scottish seafood,' says Lacan, who prepares local lobster as a bisque to an entree inspired by Spanish and Asian culinary traditions. Why now? Scotland's geographical location and oceanic conditions are nothing new but 'people are becoming more interested and cautious about where their food comes from,' says Soutar, who explains that being able to tell people that certain ingredients have been harvested locally offers intrigue. Not only are diners seeking out destination-specific menus, but Lalande suggests that more chefs are realizing the quality of Scotland's rivers and sea. 'The waters are probably the best in Europe,' he says. The wave of chefs interested in coastal foraging tend to share a common background, Donald adds. 'Scottish chefs are cutting their teeth in London, France, the U.S., and rather than staying there, they are coming home, just like I did.' There's a curiosity, according to Aikman, that's leading this movement towards working with the seasons and exploring coastal areas to seek out flavors that wouldn't exist in restaurants otherwise. Plus, if you forage it yourself, legally, then it's free and fulfilling, he says. 'There's something rewarding about searching for a wild ingredient, picking it, preserving it for later in the year or using it within our menu that week.' Where to eat A dish from the two-Michelin-starred Glenturret Lalique Restaurant that features cherry stone clam, gooseberry, and pepper dulse. Photography by Marc Millar, The Glenturret Restaurant In addition to relying on local foragers, including Coeur Sauvage , for the likes of seaweed and sea kale, Aikman and his team spend time foraging. 'It's rare, as a chef, to feel that connected to what you're putting out for other people to eat,' he says. His menu changes regularly, but one of Aikman's original coastal-inspired dishes was a raw scallop with fermented and pickled seaweed, sea kale, an emulsion of lightly cured and smoked scallop roe, a chilled broth made with dehydrated seaweed, and the skirt of the scallop that would usually be discarded. Across town at The Witchery , Douglas Roberts—a champion of the foraging movement for over the past decade—serves sea spaghetti with halibut topped with smoked cod roe. 'I would rather garnish a piece of fish or meat with a foraged ingredient that was picked less than 24 hours before, less than 40 miles away, than use some tasteless piece of vegetable that has probably sat in a warehouse for a week or so and grown in a greenhouse in Spain or Holland,' he says. At Timberyard, Radford's use of coastal bounty is ever-rotating, but includes sea truffle, Alexanders (a wild plant), beach rose, maritime pine, scurvy grass, sea beet, and sea sandwort. On the beverage menu, he recently used sugar kelp for a twist on a dirty martini. 'The seaweed is macerated on a mix of gin and vermouth for several weeks, lending an umami note with rich salinity,' he says. In Speyside, the ocean may be out of sight, but the Moray Firth coast is only 20 miles away. This is where Lacan sources 'a wealth of fresh, high-quality seafood.' Aside from proteins, Lacan incorporates samphire, rock fennel, sea rosemary, sea lettuce, and Scottish kelp on the TimeSpirit menu. (How Canada's smallest province became a culinary wonderland) Food for thought Many foraged ingredients are considered as superfoods for their variety of health benefits and, when harvested responsibly, are low impact to reduce the dependence on intensive agriculture or fishing practices. 'I also believe foraging for ingredients helps not only cooks, but everyone connect or re-connect with the outdoors and nature; something the majority of us are all lacking right now,' adds Donald. Jillian Dara is a Boston-based travel writer and editor with a focus on travel, culture, food and beverage; she enjoys reporting on the intersection of them all for publications including Travel + Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, Food & Wine, Decanter, Vogue, and Robb Report. Follow her on Instagram @jilliandara
Time Out Dubai
03-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out Dubai
A chic new pastry boutique has landed at One&Only One Za'abeel
The thing is, French boutiques are one of our weaknesses. That's why we're over the moon that One&Only One Za'abeel is getting a new café. Maison Devoille, the brainchild of MICHELIN-trained chef-pâtissier Christophe Devoille has to be on your radar, too. Tucked into the resort's chic first-floor lobby, Maison Devoille isn't a typical grab-and-go café. With plush Art Deco interiors, soft blush tones and golden touches that gleam in the sunlight, it's every bit as elegant as the pastries on display. Floor-to-ceiling windows bring in loads of natural light, making it a dreamy setting for catch-ups, solo treat days, or an impromptu little escape from the day. One of the world's biggest pastry chefs, chef Christophe Devoille, has already made waves with The Royal Tearoom at Atlantis The Royal. Twice named Gault&Millau UAE's Pastry Chef of the Year, he brings his French fine-dining roots – think Ducasse and Nicolas Berger – to a more intimate, boutique-style experience. Every pastry is crafted individually with exacting technique, real storytelling and a serious sense of pride. Alongside the permanent menu of pastries, cakes and desserts, there's also the limited-edition 'Culinary Couture' series, which is seasonal creations inspired by fashion, art and culture. What's more, there's a touch of theatre woven into the Maison Devoille experience. It's at the central Champagne Bar, a sleek oval counter with glass petals showcasing the day's star creations, where the drama unfolds. Here, you can sip on a carefully selected range of premium grape and mixed drinks by the glass, or opt for a warming loose-leaf tea blend served with a flourish. Iced or hot coffees are made to order and the service mirrors the same detail-driven finesse as the pâtisserie itself. They'll change throughout the year, but always carry chef Christophe's signature blend of French technique and playful creativity. So the next time you need a quiet five minutes or if you're planning to catch up with the girls for an afternoon of sweet spoiling, you'll be glad you saved this one on your Google maps. Open daily 8am-10pm. One&Only One Za'abeel, (04 666 1617).
Eater
27-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Eater
Alain Ducasse's Sky-High Restaurant to Close After a Decade Above the Strip
A decade after opening his French Riviera–inspired restaurant 64 floors above the Las Vegas Strip, Alain Ducasse will close Rivea this summer. The final dinner service is set for Sunday, June 22. Ducasse has operated restaurants in that iconic rooftop space for more than 20 years, adapting through two major hotel rebrands. The first, Mix (stylized as miX), opened in 2004 atop what was then the Hotel (stylized as THEhotel) at Mandalay Bay. Mix earned Michelin stars in both 2008 and 2009, back when Michelin still evaluated Las Vegas restaurants, adding to Ducasse's grand total of 21 Michelin stars across his global restaurant empire. In 2014, the Hotel rebranded as Delano Las Vegas, and one year later, Rivea and the adjacent Skyfall Lounge replaced Mix on the 64th floor. Most recently, in December 2024, the hotel rebranded again, this time becoming W Las Vegas under a partnership between MGM Resorts and Marriott International. Rivea's French-style dining spans dishes like mussels in garlicky white wine and herb butter sauce, tender gnocchi with English peas and romanesco, and Maine lobster with fresh linguine and truffle cream. It debuted with a bold design — the lighted 'wave wall' was made of hundreds of glass squares arranged in a pattern meant to evoke the motion of the Mediterranean. But the primary draw has always been the view, which looks out over the Las Vegas Strip. MGM Resorts International confirmed that the Skyfall Lounge, with its balcony views, will remain open and that plans for the now-vacant restaurant space will be announced in the coming months. Whatever takes its place, the views will remain a stellar highlight. Sign up for our newsletter.
News.com.au
25-04-2025
- Sport
- News.com.au
Randwick inside mail: Sydney race looks ideal for Ducasse after draw dents Brisbane bid
Golden Slipper-winning trainer Michael Freedman is hopeful his decision to keep the in-form Ducasse in Sydney is rewarded with victory in the Precise Air Handicap (1500m) at Royal Randwick on Saturday. Freedman had Ducasse entered for the $300,000 Listed Brisbane Mile (1600m) at Eagle Farm but when the gelding drew barrier 17 he decided to race for half the prizemoney at Randwick. 'We kept Ducasse in Sydney because of the wide barrier he drew at Eagle Farm,'' Freedman confirmed. 'He seems to be in good order and the rain around won't hurt him, either. 'Randwick is his favourite track and this is about his best distance so potentially this race sets up nicely for him.'' TAB price assessors agree with Ducasse the $4.40 favourite to continue his form surge this autumn. Ducasse resumed with a strong win over 1400m at Rosehill then ran competitively at stakes level in successive starts when fifth to Iowna Merc in the Group 2 Ajax Stakes before a close third to Just Folk in the Group 3 Doncaster Prelude. • Ray and Duff's Randwick tips: Best bet 'jumps out at me' Freedman, who prepared Marhoona to win the Golden Slipper during the Sydney autumn carnival, also has emerging three-year-old Colophon as the $4 favourite for the NSW Bookmakers Co-Operative Handicap (1400m). Colophon comes to Randwick after a monstrous win at Kembla Grange when he led throughout and put a margin of more than five lengths on his chasing rivals. But Freedman does have concerns about the rain-affected track conditions and doesn't want Randwick to get much worse than its current Soft 7 rating. 'I need to keep an eye on the track conditions,'' the trainer explained. 'Colophon once ran on a Heavy 9 and wasn't at his best. 'He'll run on the proviso the track stays in the soft range. If he gets a track that is suitable then he is quite a progressive young horse and might earn himself a ticket to Queensland if he keeps going the right way.'' • Import has class to win but Kent Jr still wary Freedman will be at Eagle Farm where he has the superbly-bred Seascape chasing stakes success in the Listed $160,000 Mick Dittman Plate (1000m). Seascape, who is by super sire I Am Invincible out of the Group 2 winner Adrift, has won three of her nine starts including her recent Kensington win a month ago. 'With her pedigree we are hoping to get some black type,'' Freedman said. 'It is just a shame she has drawn off the track but she is going well.'' â– â– â– â– â– RANDWICK BIG BETS AND MARKET MOVERS RACE 4: Zealously $2.30-$1.90 after a bet of $2000 at $2 RACE 5: Saganti $4.60-$3.40 RACE 6: Lisztomania $4.60-$3.90, Piastri $8-$5 RACE 9: Colophon $8-$3.90, Engine Room $6-$5 RACE 10: Know Thyself $3.50-$2.30 EARLY QUADDIE RACE 3: 3, 6, 9, 15 RACE 4: 1, 6 RACE 5: 4, 5, 7, 8 RACE 6: 3, 6, 8, 10 QUADDIE RACE 7: 1, 2, 8 RACE 8: 2, 3, 5, 13 RACE 9: 3, 9, 10, 15 RACE 10: 1, 2, 8 PRICE CHECK SUNRISE (race 2) has been a significant shortener with TAB after the scratching of early favourite Photographics. Sunrise, who set a course record to win at Kembla last start, was $2.80 but is now into $1.90 favouritism. Zealously (race 4) has also shortened from $2.30 to $1.90 after a bet of $2000 at $2. SECTIONAL STARS SUNRISE (race 2) produced a stunning comeback effort at Kembla Grange over 1000m last month, leading throughout to win by more than seven lengths and stopping the clock at a track record-breaking 55.58sec. She ran her final 600m in a flying 32.23sec. KNOW THYSELF (race 10) was able to sustain a strong final 600m sprint to win the Country Championships Final. Despite being caught three-wide albeit with cover, then forced even wider on the turn, Know Thyself ran his final 600m in 34.28sec including a closing 200m sectional of 11.61sec to score a narrow but impressive win. Never doubt yourself! A finish for the ages in the Country Championships Final, and Know Thyself wins it by a whisker for @Paulmessara and @LGavranich with @Aaronbullock90 aboard! ðŸ'� @aus_turf_club | @WorldPool — SKY Racing (@SkyRacingAU) April 5, 2025 TRIAL POINTERS PASSEGGIATA (race 4) has looked more like her old self racing away to successive barrier trial wins by big margins in recent weeks. She romped home by four lengths from classy mare Olentia in a 900m Rosehill heat then ran her rivals ragged to win by more than five lengths at Warwick Farm over 822m. She hasn't won for nearly two years but looks to be coming up really well for this preparation, she's drawn the rails and handles rain-affected going. WOOTTON VERNI (race 8) won five of his nine starts in France including a Group 3 in France. He's had two barrier trials for new trainer Chris Waller and was particularly impressive at Warwick Farm last week when he came from near last, hugged the rail and finished strongly for second behind the speedy Oh Diamond Lil. Champion jockey James McDonald rode Wootton Verni in his latest trial and sticks with the horse for his Australian debut. BEST BET ZEALOUSLY (race 4) raced through his grades late last year with three successive wins, leading throughout and winning by comfortable margins. He was then given his chance in The Sunlight and ran very well for fourth behind subsequent Group 1 winner Private Harry back in January. Zealously resumed at Warwick Farm earlier this month and trailed leader Wondereach into the straight, ranged up to win but could not get past his race-fit rival, losing narrowly. Zealously will be fitter for that run and is not badly treated at the weights after the claim. He looks placed to advantage. What a finish! 😮 Wondereach salutes by a nose to grant the @mcsmithracing stable a double! ✌ï¸� — SKY Racing (@SkyRacingAU) April 2, 2025 VALUE BET INVADER ZIM (race 6) is resuming but he invariably sprints well fresh as he showed at his last two comeback runs with both second placings at Randwick. Last winter he endured a wide run and was unlucky not to have won over 1300m on a heavy track then last December he was first-up at 1200m and beat all but Disneck who was in rampant form. Invader Zim handles wet tracks and is over the odds around $12.
New York Times
30-03-2025
- Business
- New York Times
Baccarat Looks to the Future With Renovations and Restaurants
The fire lit in 1764 — part of King Louis XV's order establishing the Baccarat glass works factory in France — has burned continuously for centuries. And last year the French house, which has been making pieces such as the Zénith Chandelier Black by Philippe Starck and the Baccarat x Virgil Abloh Crystal Clear collection, marked its 260th anniversary by installing a state-of-the-art furnace at the factory, enabling it to improve energy efficiency and produce its first lead-free crystal. But that was just one of the changes at the French heritage brand. In 2020, its management was taken over by several debt management funds led by Tor Investment Management, after its owner, Fortune Fountain Capital, lost control of its business to creditors. (Baccarat Hotels & Resorts is operated by SH Hotels & Resorts, an affiliate of Starwood Capital, through a license.) Since then, Baccarat, which does not disclose its annual revenue, has shifted its operating focus from products to a broader embrace of the art of hospitality, spending 60 million euros ($65 million) on the effort over the past three years. 'Experiences are at the heart of Baccarat's DNA,' said Laurence Nicolas, who became the house's chief executive in February. 'What we have achieved is an incredible transformation into a lifestyle brand.' That transformation — which began under Ms. Nicolas's predecessor, Maggie Henriquez — started with the September opening of a gourmet restaurant, Ducasse Baccarat, overseen by the Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse, and a cocktail bar called Midi-Minuit. A museum space upstairs in the Baccarat flagship on Place des États-Unis in the 16th Arrondissement was renovated for the new venues. (There also are plans for Jardin, a garden restaurant and bar, to open this summer.) 'We have a magnificent space in this house of great tradition,' Mr. Ducasse, who also collects antique Baccarat crystal, said during an interview in Paris. 'We are here to create something new, designed for today's clients, that is chic but informal.' He said the restaurant was styled to entice customers. 'Clients come here for the pleasure of tasting, not because they are hungry,' he said. 'They are curious, fickle, over-informed, rushed and stressed. We want to surprise them and make them want to come back.' Its three set menus reflect Mr. Ducasse's modern take on traditional French cuisine: 'Less animal protein, more vegetables, smaller portions and higher quality.' The dining experience is shaped as much by the surroundings as by the food. In the restaurant, Baccarat's creations are represented in the stemware on the tables and the suspended droplet lighting fixtures, a deconstructed take on the house's classic chandelier. And the room is lined with floor-to-ceiling wood shelves displaying small human figures carved from natural oak, the work of Jean-Guillaume Mathiaut, a French sculptor and architect. 'We have preserved Baccarat's heritage, but added our own touch of modernity,' said Mr. Ducasse, who chose Mr. Mathiaut for the décor. With the museum's closure, Harry Nuriev, a Russian-born architect and furniture designer, was invited to reimagine how some of its creations would continue to be displayed in the store. His solution: industrial refrigerators. 'The refrigerators in the lobby are a nod to the restaurant upstairs,' Mr. Nuriev said during an interview in Paris. 'But they are also a fun twist on the idea of preserving archival pieces. Their oversized glass doors are a screen through which visitors can admire the precious crystal pieces.' He also has transformed the flagship's entrance gallery, which leads to the lobby, by adding words such as Passion and Temptation and drawings, including a sketch of some glass blowers, on the limestone-lined walls. 'The stone is carved like modern graffiti that tells the story of Baccarat,' he said, adding, 'Graffiti has been a form of self-expression since cave paintings.' In collaboration with Baccarat's crystal artisans, Mr. Nuriev designed a chandelier reflecting what he calls Transformism, challenging viewers to see things in new ways. The piece, to be unveiled in the fall, combines traditional Baccarat crystal with found objects and everyday items such as small key chains and ordinary beads. 'In the future, as I see it, crystal will become rare, and factory-made pieces will be less common,' Mr. Nuriev said. 'This means that all luxury items will have to be sourced from new channels, objects will be repurposed and found materials will replace factory-made components.' He said that working with Baccarat's artisans was a special experience: 'The way they move in silence, in a perfect choreography, was almost cosmic.' In the flagship's boutique, new creations for sale include the New Antiques collection by the Dutch designer Marcel Wanders, inspired by Baccarat's exhibits at past World's Fairs. It features pieces such as a human-size standing vase; a portable clochette-style lamp with a built-in wireless lighting system; and a round table with a marble top and an illuminated crystal central leg equipped with a battery and a USB port. Some design changes also are being rolled out to the 70 Baccarat boutiques worldwide in a renovation plan led by the French architects and interior designers Bruno Moinard and Claire Bétaille. Reflecting the theme of fire, the new boutique concept incorporates black and red tones, charred cedar with textured surfaces, steel ribbons and molten crystal. Ten renovations are planned for this year. 'We have used bold, contrasting materials and precise lighting to evoke the essence of fire and embers,' Mr. Moinard said in an interview in Paris. 'These materials, shapes and textures reflect the spirit of the Baccarat manufacture, and create a modern visual language in the boutiques.' As for its manufacturing site, which employs 600 workers, it is in the town of Baccarat, along the Meurthe River in the Lorraine region of eastern France. The installation of Furnace F, as the new equipment is called, required a yearlong reconstruction of a building. Baccarat said it was equipped to convert 18 tons of molten material a day. 'We have upgraded not just our production tools but also the security of our facility, and this year, we are enhancing our water purification systems and reviewing our water usage,' Ms. Nicolas said. 'We are also focusing on our work force, which includes some of the most talented craftspeople in France, including 12 Meilleurs Ouvriers de France.' She was referring to a national award given to artisans, who are chosen through a competition every four years. Ms. Nicolas said Baccarat's new lifestyle orientation would be sealed with a new slogan. 'For a long time, our tagline was 'Everything is better in Baccarat,' which focused on our products,' Ms. Nicolas said. 'We have made a subtle change.' 'Life is better with Baccarat,' she said. 'And we want to share our know-how with those who want to indulge, take time together and enjoy life.'
