4 days ago
Corn is part of this Mexican Canadian chef's 'roots.' Here's how she cooks the 'versatile' summer produce in both sweet and savoury meals
For restaurateur and chef Elia Herrera — who's had star turns on both the Canadian and Mexican versions of the reality TV series Top Chef — it wasn't Sunday dinner at her grandmother's if rajas poblanas wasn't cooking. 'It's very easy to make and also it is very comforting and delicious,' she tells Yahoo Canada of the dish featuring sliced poblano peppers simmered in a cheese sauce.
Herrera's grandmother's version also had fresh corn and chicken folded in. 'We add the cream to simmer and absorb all these smoky flavours — and some sweetness from the corn,' she recalls of the dish. '[It's] so super delicious, and we eat it as a taco. We put it family style on the table, and then we have the tortillas already on the side ... it's so yummy.
'I always try to put it on the menu [of any restaurant I run]. It's just because my inspiration has always been my grandmother, and that's one of the dishes that brings me back to my childhood.'
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Herrera explains how 'corn is part of our basic diet" for people growing up in Mexico. She notes how the humble vegetable is, for her, a cultural staple that she's seen frequently transformed into tortillas, a sweet cake that's somewhere between cornbread and biscuits and, occasionally, even into ice cream.
'I grew up with it. It's in my roots,' Herrera says. 'And the flavour, of course, is very versatile, because it can be sweet, it can be savoury.' She adds that the vegetable can even be used to make a range of other recipes, including a version of horchata, a drink popular in Mexico that's typically made from ground rice, milk and cinnamon.
Wait — is corn actually healthy and affordable?
While dieters might be nervous to stack their plate with too much corn, John Hopkins Medicine shares that a medium ear of corn is a low-fat, low-calorie, naturally gluten-free food (minus, of course, any add-ons like butter). Rich in vitamins and antioxidants as well as a source of fibre and some protein, it also mentions that corn should be viewed as a carbohydrate by anyone with diabetes. However, it's certainly a far cry from being classified as unhealthy.
Herrera adds that she's found that balancing corn with a healthy fat, like avocados, olive oil or fatty fish, can be helpful for those seeking a balanced plate. Serving corn with beans also makes for a balanced — and delicious — combination of nutrients.
When it comes to price tags, ears of corn can often go for as little as 30 to 50 cents during peak season, depending on the grocery store. Paired with the vegetable's adaptability, it can be a huge win for anyone trying to stretch their food budget this summer (which is probably most of us?).
What can I pair with corn?
According to Herrera, short ribs and barbecue brisket are some options that go well with corn. But she also adds that corn's flexibility and adaptability don't stop when it comes to how the vegetable is prepared. It's also right at home next to other rich, saucy meat dishes, Mexican-inspired meals and warm-weather classics like pasta salad and burgers.
Even if you're not about to pick up where Herrera's recipe list trails off, there's certainly more to the summer produce stalwart than boiling it and bathing it in butter (for what it's worth, Herrera is quick to mention that boiled-and-buttered corn is a classic in its own right). Still, read on for Herrera's guide to making the most of the season's bounty — AKA that pile of unhusked cobs rolling around inside your fridge.
What's an easy way to cook corn?
When you're ready to move beyond boiling husked corn in water for several minutes (adding a teaspoon of white sugar was my grandmother's secret to making them extra-succulent), Herrera suggests going for a Mexican street food vibe with esquites. It's a dish traditionally served at outdoor markets and by street vendors in plastic cups, featuring a mix of cooked corn, mayonnaise, cheese and lime juice, oftentimes topped with chili powder and cilantro.
Recipe: Elia Herrera's Esquites
Carefully remove corn from its cob: Try standing it upright, holding it at the tip in a shallow bowl, then slicing off vertical swaths with a sharp knife and letting individual pieces rain into the bowl.
Heat a heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat.
Melt roughly two tablespoons of butter in the warmed pan.
Add the corn kernels and sauté until cooked through, adding a few tablespoons of water if needed.
Remove from heat.
In a mixing bowl, combine the cooked corn with a dollop of mayonnaise, lime juice and, if desired, a pinch of chili powder.
Crumble in some hard, salty cheese (cotija is traditional, but hard feta will work in a pinch) and, if desired, a couple of tablespoons of chopped cilantro.
Give it a final quick mix to combine and serve.
Another riff on these flavours? Herrera suggests reaching for some Ontario corn: 'I love it, it is super sweet. I basically just grill it a little bit and then do the same thing: Spread some mayonnaise, and then put some cotija cheese — very, very finely grated — [and] some lime and chili powder.'
No matter if you try that concoction or keep it minimalist with butter, this economical and delicious vegetable is ready to be your summer cooking MVP. 'Even just grilled corn with butter and salt: That's super yummy,' adds Herrera. 'Corn is amazing.'
