12 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Indian Express
Inside Marine Drive's new restaurant SoBo 20, serving bold Franco-American plates
In the early 18th century, the French landed on the Mississippi coast and founded New Orleans. Over centuries, it evolved into a major port and commercial hub, the birthplace of jazz, and a cultural gumbo of French, African, Spanish, and Caribbean influences. Among its most distinctive offerings is its bold, soulful Creole and Cajun cuisine, a delicious reflection of the city's layered history.
Now, halfway across the world, that unmistakable NOLA (New Orleans, Louisiana) flavour has landed in Mumbai—courtesy of SoBo 20.
Designed by Sarah Sham's Essajees Atelier, the newly opened 50-seater restaurant on the ground floor of InterContinental Marine Drive exudes retro-glam sophistication—think clean lines, curated lighting, and bold contrasts.
One side features a chic no-reservations bar; on the other, plush seating with marble-topped tables and leather upholstery, anchored by a striking trumpet sculpture on the far wall.
It's an easygoing spot, ideal for post-work drinks, laid-back dinners set to '80s and '90s tunes, or a leisurely Sunday brunch.
SoBo 20 is named after the area and its pincode. 'We wanted the name to feel familiar and accessible,' said Panchali Mahendra, CEO of Dubai-based Atelier House Hospitality, the group behind New Delhi's award-winning INJA. 'When people hear 'French-American,' they often expect something uptight or formal. But we wanted to celebrate the fun of French flavours and the boldness of American ones.' She added that Creole and Cajun cuisine is ideal for the Indian palate, thanks to its spice levels, stews, and textures.
The menu, curated by chef Sudeep Kashikar, is compact yet versatile, offering around 48 dishes, including bar bites, wafer-thin pizzettes, small and large plates, sides, and desserts. Every dish is technique-driven, artfully plated, and designed to surprise — even a humble salad like the Verde.
This green salad arrives with a striking top layer: a delicate mousse-gelee hybrid made with spinach, citrus, and serrano pepper. It rests over a tartare of vegetables like onion, cucumber, edamame, kale, and baby spinach. Studded with candied walnuts, smoked cashew salsa, and sour cream, and crowned with a tiara of microgreens, it's a sensory delight.
A spoonful of everything melts in your mouth, bringing together freshness, flavours, and crunch in a single bite.
Other highlights include house-made focaccia glazed with honey and chilli, served with mascarpone white butter and fried sage; a sun-dried tomato and basil pizzette slicked with arrabbiata sauce and tapenade; and the Potato Mille Feuille — finely layered, crisped potatoes with Cajun seasoning, served with potato foam, rice crackers, and coriander-chive oil on the side.
The cocktail menu, crafted by Supradeep Dey, blends French and American classics in inventive ways. Take the Sidecar Smoke, for instance, a clever fusion of the Old Fashioned and Sidecar. We tried the Night Cap, which arrives in two parts: a quick shot of Alexander No.1 with white chocolate, gin, and cream, followed by a citrusy Blood and Sand.
Considering the culinary influences, the menu leans heavily toward non-vegetarian options. Think smoked prawns on crispy chicken skin (Gambas), soft shell crab linguine, salmon carpaccio, and crowd-favourite chicken paillard with caviar. 'What has surprisingly been a huge favourite is the Louisiana fried chicken burger,' said Mahendra. 'Not many people can do justice to the flavours and get a burger right.'
Desserts, given the French influence, were much anticipated—and they didn't disappoint. The Burrata Ice Cream, for instance, is a mildly sweet, almost salad-like dessert featuring cheese turned into ice cream, topped with an olive oil vinaigrette with orange and honey, and toasted almonds.
Chef Kashikar's favourite is the SoBo Chocolate Pate—inspired by the classic liver pate—but reimagined with 70 per cent dark Valrhona chocolate and bourbon whiskey, finished with frozen grated chilli and a sprinkle of salt for heat and contrast.
Our top pick? The fried beignets with a ginger creme brulee centre, served with caviar for non-vegetarians and without for vegetarians. 'It's a classic New Orleans pastry—just fried dough with powdered sugar on top. But I wanted to bring in a French touch with creme brulee,' said Kashikar.
'We baked the creme, churned and froze it into bonbon moulds, then stuffed it into the beignet batter and fried it. Of course, creme brulee isn't complete without a sugar crust, so we torch the whole beignet.' The result is magical: a crisp shell that gives way to a warm, custardy centre with hints of ginger and caramelised sugar.
