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CNA
6 days ago
- CNA
Exploring Istanbul: Where to eat, what to see, where to stay
Istanbul, the Turkish city that straddles two continents, truly never sleeps. In the early mornings, seagulls swoop through the sky as motorbikes zip around corners and street vendors trundle their carts out onto the sidewalks. The bustle of 16 million people fills the days — and even the ubiquitous cats beloved by many locals seem occupied. Come evening, families, couples and friends spill into the city's enormous selection of restaurants and cafes, their conversations lubricated by omnipresent black tea. A centre of culture, commerce and power for more than 2,000 years, the city, known as Istanbul since 1930, with its Byzantine- and Ottoman-era structures, is a place where the past never feels distant. Yet contemporary culture thrives here. Those who venture into the many neighbourhoods beyond the well-trodden historic centre will be rewarded with stylish boutiques, exciting live music venues, bold restaurants, trendy bars, as well as contemporary and Modern art. FRIDAY 3pm | Explore Turkish art The Istanbul Modern, an imposing concrete and steel museum that opened in 2023, sits on a bank of the Bosporus, the busy waterway that divides the European and Asian sides of the city (entry, 750 lira, or US$19, approximately S$24.50). Rotating exhibitions on the ground floor showcase contemporary art. Upstairs, the permanent ' Floating Islands ' exhibition features Turkish artworks from the permanent collection, tracing shifts in Turkish life across the 20th and early 21st centuries. Accompanying placards provide helpful context about artists' education, lives and intentions. Artworks from the later decades include works exploring themes like womanhood, migration and machine intelligence. Don't skip the museum's roof deck, where you'll find 360-degree city views and a reflecting pool that has become a gathering point for seagulls. 4.30pm | Grab a snack and go shopping From the Istanbul Modern, head into Karakoy, a glitzy harbourside neighbourhood where, alongside five-star hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants, outdoor stands hawk balik durum, or wraps with grilled fish and vegetables. One of those stands, Meshur Balikci Eyyup Usta, elevates the fish wrap with a pomegranate-molasses-and-spice coating (180 lira). Afterward, wander into the Cihangir, Cukurcuma and Kabatas neighborhoods, where every building — whether it's a jewel-toned townhouse or an overflowing antiques shop — has a distinct personality. Check out Local Makers, a concept store selling items by Turkish artisans, like silk scarves by Galene, artisanal Turkish sweets by Marsel Delights and watercolour colouring books by Naz Saner. At Turkish Modern, you'll find ear cuffs, which don't require piercing, with the evil eye design; elaborate Turkish rugs; and handmade olive-oil soap. 8pm | Dine at a revived 1960s villa With its Art Deco chandeliers, ivy-covered courtyard and caramel leather banquettes, Arkestra feels like a set out of a Great Gatsby remake. This remodelled 1960s villa in the posh Etiler neighbourhood, on the European side, has a Michelin-starred restaurant, a bistro and a music lounge, all of which require reservations that can be made via its website. In the restaurant, Cenk Debensason, the chef, prepares delights like the katsu sando, a thick slice of rare steak nestled between pillowy Japanese-style milk bread, or a light stone bass, a fish served with cabbage and yuzu butter (meal for two, about 9,000 lira). After dinner, head to the Listening Room, a music lounge where DJs spin vinyl either from the house collection or their own. Palm-tree-printed wallpaper and a white-wood balcony lend the space a tropical feel. Drinks include inventive cocktails like the Mandarin, a light, citrusy concoction made with yogurt liqueur and vodka (780 lira). WHERE TO STAY The Peninsula Istanbul, a five-star hotel that opened two years ago in what was once a ferry terminal, sits on the waterfront in the trendy Karakoy neighborhood across from the historic center. Behind the hotel, a 25m heated outdoor pool offers sweeping views of the city, and a dock serves as a water taxi stop. In the basement, the hotel has a hamam and an indoor pool, and upstairs, the Michelin-starred chef Fatih Tutak offers cuisine that draws on inspiration from places on the former Silk Road at Gallada. As with many hotels, rates are quoted in euros and vary based on availability and season. Here, they start at 850 euros, or US$980, in summer. Orientbank Hotel Istanbul, Autograph Collection, a short walk from the city's UNESCO-listed attractions such as the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, is a boutique hotel that used to be a bank. In the basement, a jazz bar occupies the former vault. Upstairs, a circular lounge offers views of the bustling Egyptian Bazaar and the striking Suleymaniye Mosque. A box of Turkish sweet treats and a customized bond certificate from the building's former life greet each guest on arrival. Rooms start at around €175. Monnas' Rooms, called Monnas Suite on some search engines and hotel booking websites, is a hotel with apartment-style rooms in Cihangir, a neighbourhood of hills and winding streets. A great option for families or groups of friends, Monnas' Rooms offers two- or three-bedroom renovated, spacious, well-decorated apartments for two nights or more, and the reception has 24-hour staffing. Apartments start at €190 a night. For short-term rentals on the European side, the ideal location is the swath of the Beyoglu district between Refik Saydam Caddesi, a thoroughfare with heavy traffic, and the waterfront. Adjacent to Beyoglu is Sisli, a more modern area that includes the affluent Bomonti and Nisantas neighbourhoods. On the Asian side, Kadikoy is a stylish neighbourhood with plenty of shops, restaurants and bars, as well as handy public transit connections. No trip to Istanbul is complete without a Turkish breakfast, or kahvalti, of cheeses, olives, spreads, breads, eggs and more. Kahve6, a popular cafe with the feel of a living room inside and a plant-filled, enclosed terrace in the back, offers several options. The Full On Breakfast, plenty for two people, comes with mulberry jam; kaymak, which is like a clotted cream, with honey; spicy tomato paste; olives; lor cheese, similar to cottage cheese, with pickled pepper; a bun; and a glass of strong, steaming Turkish tea (590 lira). Extend the meal with the addition of menemen, umami-rich scrambled eggs with tomatoes and peppers (260 lira). Or skip the Full On and instead try the Izmir Breakfast, which includes melted tulum cheese served in a cast-iron pan that's perfect for dipping simit, a sesame bread ring (395 lira). 12pm | Travel back in time In the Fatih district, the area that holds some of Istanbul's key UNESCO-designated historic sights, four must-see attractions are within easy walking distance of one another. Start with the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, a church built in the sixth century that was converted to a mosque after the Ottoman conquest of the city (entry, 1,050 lira). Next, visit the breathtaking Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Known as the Blue Mosque, it is a 17th-century structure decorated inside with 20,000 intricate tiles. Entry is prohibited for tourists during prayer times throughout the day, which change from day to day based on sunrise and sunset, and last about 90 minutes each, but is otherwise free of charge. Continue to Basilica Cistern, an underground complex built around the same time as the Hagia Sophia to store up to 100,000 tons of water for the city. Inside, enormous ancient columns stand amid shallow water, lit by blue, green and purple light (entry with audio guide, 1,500 lira). End at Topkapi Palace, a splendid complex that was once the residence of Ottoman sultans and includes a former harem and a museum showcasing jewels, textiles and weapons. Grab a bite between stops at Hocapasa Pidecisi, which specialises in pide, a large flatbread with toppings like ground meat, cheese and vegetables (one pide, 300 to 400 lira). 3pm | Get the royal treatment at a hamam For the ultimate relaxation experience, visit the Zeyrek Cinili Hamam, a 16th-century bathhouse that reopened recently after a 13-year, US$15 million restoration. Every session begins with a cold glass of sherbet, a diluted fruit juice. Next, an attendant guides you into the heated bathing area — the men's and women's areas are separate — where the surfaces are an elegant grey marble and the ceiling is decorated with star-shaped holes cut into the stone. The 50-minute Original treatment includes a full-body scrub, a hair wash and a decadent foam massage that feels like slipping into a cloud (€105, about US122, or S$163). At the end, relax with hot tea and refreshing cold towels on a daybed. Afterward, head across the street to Van Golu Gida, a shop selling spices and herbs that the owner scoops from large burlap sacks, and sweet-smelling soaps that can be cut to a custom size. 6pm | Glide between Asia and Europe for US$1 Given its arrangement on two continents divided by a narrow strip of water, Istanbul abounds with boat tours. The cheapest and easiest way to hit the seas is on a ferry. A ride from Eminonu, a harbourside section of the historic centre on the European side, to Kadikoy, a bustling area on the Asian side, takes about 20 minutes and offers spectacular views of the Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and the Sea of Marmara (one one-way ticket, 40 lira). If the deck becomes too windy, pop inside for a hot Turkish coffee or black tea from the onboard cafe. Ferries are accessible from many points in the city and run regularly. Schedules are available on the ferry operator's website and on Google Maps, and you can tap to pay with a phone or a card. 6.30pm | Nibble your way through Kadikoy Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an Ein Beitrag geteilt von Tatar Salim Döner Lokantası (@tatarsalimdoner) In the lively heart of Kadikoy, locals crowd the narrow streets, shopping for wares, sipping tea and noshing on street foods. Assemble dinner based on what calls to you. Some suggestions: Start with a sampler of olives, cheeses and dips at Gozde Sarkuteri, a delicatessen that charges based on weight (for an assortment of snacks, expect to spend 200 to 300 lira), then cross the street to a shop called Ozcan Tursu 1935 for a cup of palate-cleansing pickle juice (30 lira). Head to Kadikoy Merkez Borekcisi, where you'll find plenty of seating, for borek, a flaky pastry with fillings like cheese or potatoes (140 lira). End at Tatar Salim, a comfortable, simple restaurant selling doner, juicy slices of lamb served with flatbread and a refreshing salad of herbs, lettuce and pomegranate (410 lira). No reservations needed. Grab a cocktail before or after your feast at the cozy Fahri Konsolos, where ingredients can include pistachio, quince and saffron, and drinks arrive with tiny snacks, like a sliver of homemade baklava (cocktails, 620 lira). 10pm | Rock out to live music Hop on a ferry, subway or bus, or catch a taxi back to the European side, and head for the well-to-do Bomonti neighborhood for a concert or a DJ gig at Babylon, part of an entertainment complex called Yapi Kredi B omontiada. Situated around a large courtyard buzzing with energy in the evenings, Yapi Kredi Bomontiada also has a museum dedicated to the photojournalist Ara Guler, who was known as the 'Eye of Istanbul,' that's open during the day, as well as several restaurants and an art exhibition space. The Populist serves beers produced on site by Torch Brewery. The Babylon lineup offers Turkish and international acts across genres, including rock, pop, folk and electronic (tickets about 700 lira). If these don't strike your fancy, check out Salon IKSV or Blind, live-music venues about 20 minutes away by taxi or bus, with lineups as global and diverse as Babylon's. For those with a sweet tooth, no visit to Istanbul is complete without baklava, the sweet, syrupy pastry made with layers of flaky dough. Karakoy Gulluoglu, a beloved bakery that opened in 1949, sells a range of these pastries, including chocolate or cold baklava, in a sleek, contemporary space. Next door is another popular cafe, Mahizer Baklava Karakoy, where you can find creative delights, such as a baklava ice cream sandwich, a Turkish variation on tres leches cake called trilece and fig pudding. Grab a Turkish tea or coffee and a selection of treats from both bakeries and walk over to the waterfront to taste and compare them side by side. Or if you prefer a savoury breakfast, Mahizer offers the classic Turkish kahvalti with menemen, crispy borek, fried halloumi and a selection of spreads. 10am | Escape to the islands Take the tram or the bus to the Kabatas ferry terminal to catch a ride to one of the Princes' Islands in the Sea of Marmara southeast of the city, a preferred getaway area for locals (one-way ticket, 88.38 lira). During the 90-minute boat ride, you might catch sight of frolicking dolphins. The four inhabited islands are rich with foliage, scenic overlooks and beaches. Motorised vehicles are banned, so visitors move around on foot, by bicycle or by electric shuttle. The largest and busiest island, Buyukada, has plenty of restaurants, boutiques, coffee and ice cream shops, and bike rental operators, and is famous for its elegant Ottoman-era mansions. Stop for a scoop at the quirky Buyukada Sekercisi Candy Island Cafe Patisserie, and dine on a broad selection of seafood dishes like grilled salmon on a stick or shrimp casserole as well as Turkish favorites like crispy pastries with melted cheese or eggplants with tomatoes at the Secret Garden Restaurant (dinner for two, about 2,500 lira).
Forbes
6 days ago
- Business
- Forbes
The Other Georgia: 4 Things I Want You To Know About My Homeland
Georgia's economy is diversifying. Tourism is booming. Winemakers are exporting globally. Tech, logistics, and education are expanding. And young people are stepping into leadership roles that would have seemed impossible a generation ago. When I tell people I'm from Georgia, they might picture peaches and southern charm. But that's not my Georgia. As CFO of CBS Group, a holding company working across various industries to help build a stronger, more modern society in my homeland, I represent Georgia worldwide—in boardrooms, conferences, and global summits. Yet I often find myself explaining the most basic facts about my origins. So today, I want to share four things I wish everyone knew about the Georgia I call home. Nearly 6,300 miles east of the U.S., the country of Georgia sits at the intersection of Europe and Asia, covering an area slightly smaller than South Carolina, with a population of 3.7 million people. It's a land of dramatic mountains, seaside resorts, and cities that have stood for thousands of years. Because we're located on the Silk Road—the ancient trade route that linked China to the Mediterranean—Georgia emerged as a crossroads of commerce and culture before Western civilization even existed. People from across the globe passed through, leaving a profound, multicultural legacy you can see in our food, language, and architecture. Georgia is a truly ancient society. We're one of the oldest wine-producing nations in the world, with a tradition dating back over 8,000 years. Over the centuries, we've seen kingdoms rise and fall, survived invasions, and been shaped by Persian, Ottoman, Russian, and European influences. And through it all, we've kept our language and our identity. For most of the 20th century, we were part of the Soviet Union, which initially brought industrial development, education, and economic growth. But it also brought totalitarianism and a loss of freedom, so in the late 1980s, when inflation soared and shelves emptied, nationalism swept through our part of the world, and the USSR started to unravel. Things came to a head in Georgia on April 9, 1989, when Soviet troops attacked a peaceful protest in Tbilisi and killed 21 people, mostly young, mostly women. That day galvanized the nation and marked the dawn of a new Georgia. Two years later, we declared our independence, becoming the first non-Baltic republic to leave the USSR. So in a way, my very ancient country is two years younger than I am. When a government falls, it takes essential things down with it—institutions like banks, courts, utilities, and more that people rely on to live their lives. When the Soviet Union fell, Georgia lost all of those systems. Our economy collapsed overnight. Wages bottomed out while prices skyrocketed. People were given coupons that they traded for basic food like bread and milk, often standing in line all day to get it. Georgia fell into chaos. Civil war broke out. Armed gangs roamed the streets. Many people, especially educated people, left the country in search of stability. But my parents, both doctors, stayed behind. I remember candles during power outages, food shortages, and the fear of never knowing what might happen next. But they both believed in the future of Georgia, and today, I'm proud to carry that belief too. The Georgia I help lead today is not the Georgia I grew up in. We've come through war, economic collapse, and political upheaval, and emerged with a renewed sense of purpose. Our economy is diversifying. Tourism is booming. Our winemakers are exporting globally. Tech, logistics, and education are expanding. And young people are stepping into leadership roles that would have seemed impossible a generation ago. Yes, we are still pulled between East and West—between two different ideas of governance and power. That tension is real, but so is our determination. Regardless of politics, most Georgians want a country that offers fairness, opportunity, and freedom for all. I travel the world for work, but my heart is always here. I am part of the generation building Georgia's future—honoring our past without being limited by it. This is the Georgia I want you to know. Not just the name, but the story.
The Sun
04-07-2025
- The Sun
Historic city straddles both Asia and Europe and you can get there for £25
INTOXICATING Istanbul draws visitors back again and again to explore its magical historical sites, buzzing bazaars and fabulous food. While Turkey's biggest city — with a population of more than 15million — has always been a value city-break destination, recent inflation in Turkey has made many things significantly pricier. 5 5 But this captivating city by the Bosphorus river, straddling Europe and Asia, can still be a bargain if you plan carefully. Howell Davies gives you the lowdown on how best to explore . . . WHY SHOULD I GO? Just four hours from the UK and a great long-weekend option, you're truly transported into another world, rich with culture and plenty to see and do. There's a wealth of shopping opportunities to pick up bargains, as well as winding streets to explore, delicious cuisine and sunny, warm weather from May to October. THESE STREETS MADE FOR WALKING? Yes, but pack sturdy shoes and be prepared for the city's cobblestone streets and hills. There's options if you want to take the weight off your feet, though — trams and metros cost from 30p a ride if you get a reloadable Istanbulkart travel pass. ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKET LIST? The Blue Mosque, the creation of which began in 1609, is one of the most magnificent buildings of the Ottoman Empire. It is free to enter but the queue can be long so arrive early — and check prayer times, when it is closed to non-worshippers. Nearby is another Ottoman gem — the Topkapi Palace with manicured gardens, views over the city and holy relics. Entry isn't cheap at £38 but you can stroll the neighbouring Gulhane Park, once the outer garden of the palace, for free. The imposing Hagia Sophia, which has served as a cathedral then a mosque, is also not cheap to enter but you can admire its exterior, domes and minarets from Sultanahmet Square for nothing. WHERE SHOULD I SHOP? The Grand Bazaar is one of the world's oldest covered markets. There are more than 4,000 shops and stalls, selling everything from tea and Turkish delight, to knock-off football shirts and decorative tiles. It gets busy so arrive when it first opens, at 8.30am, or an hour or so before it closes at 7pm. Prepare to haggle — aim to counter the asking price with an offer 40 to 50 per cent lower and settle at 50 to 70 per cent. Be ready to walk away. In the neighbouring Spice Bazaar, foodies can pick up authentic Turkish spice blends, from sumac and pul biber, to smoky red-pepper flakes. For something more modern, Istiklal Street is the place to go to pick up some bargains. It runs for just under a mile, from Taksim Square to Galata Tower, and is lined with high street-favourite stores, and outlets selling some somewhat dodgy 'designer' gear at bargain prices. 5 5 WHERE SHOULD I DRINK? I thought I'd cracked the code by going to the Barnathan brasserie's rooftop by Galata Tower to get its views at a fraction of the price, but I ended up with one of the most bitter and expensive margaritas I've ever had. Instead, double up your drinking and sightseeing by booking on to a sunset cruise down the Bosphorus. has dinner cruises including food, drink and entertainment from just £25pp. WHERE SHOULD I EAT? There are good restaurants near the city centre's Sirkeci train. station — and if you've got a sweet tooth, there are joints dedicated to just desserts on almost every street. To escape the bustle, head to the hip and trendy area of Fisekhane for bougie restaurants with outdoor dining and attentive staff. I had a lovely chicken shish in the beautiful courtyard of the Levantine restaurant. For a Turkish breakfast, check out Zennup 1844 where an array of traditional dishes will cost from £15. WHERE SHOULD I STAY? Heading slightly out of the city centre, to the Zeytinburnu district, near trendy Fisekhane, will help to lower costs. The recently built 3* Ibis has modern, comfy rooms and a buzzing bar and restaurant, it is just a ten-minute walk to a train station that takes you directly into the city centre. Ask for a room on a higher floor, facing the waterside, as the road beside the hotel can get busy.
The Independent
01-07-2025
- The Independent
PHOTO ESSAY: Istanbul's ferries, a lifeline connecting continents and stories
Every day, ferries of all shapes and sizes glide across the waters of Istanbul, their wakes intertwining to form intricate lattices of churning foam. The passenger boats are more than just a means of transportation — they're entrenched in the historic city's identity, as memorable as its skyline and as constant as the cries of seagulls. They carry not just people, but also their stories. Forty million commuters, tourists, vendors and other travelers ride the Istanbul Metropolitan City Lines every year, according to official figures. Trips can range from as little as 10 minutes to several hours, depending on the destination. For some passengers, the vessels are a scenic commute to work, at times turning into temporary offices where phones ring, laptops hum and voices compete to be heard over the sound of roaring engines. For others, the boats provide a floating refuge, a brief escape from the grind of daily life in a swarming city of 16 million people. 'I feel that when you travel by ferry… you replenish energy that has been diminished,' said Ali Akgun, who has lived in Istanbul for nearly 50 years. 'I love the sea.' The ferries travel on dozens of routes across the Sea of Marmara, a wholly Turkish body of water, as well as the Bosporus, the strait that both divides and bridges Europe and Asia. Visiting Istanbul for the first time, Leila Bihi, from Morocco, experienced her first ferry ride between continents. 'It's already quite special to go from one bank of the (Bosporus) to the other,' she said. 'Looking at monuments that are modern and ancient during the call to prayer. … It's a bit reminiscent of the whole city, its history, its mystical side.' For centuries the Ottoman Empire, modern Turkey's predecessor, used maritime routes for not only travel, but also military expeditions. Its capital, Constantinople, was a major center of trade due to its strategic location flanked by critical waterways. This enduring bond with the sea continues in Istanbul, where water has always been more than a scenic backdrop — it's embedded in the fabric of the centuries-old city, shaping its character and the lives of its residents. 'I think it's the most beautiful stage in the world,' said Ramin Kargozari, a musician who makes a living playing his guitar while riding ferries. 'Making music on the water, on a ferry, is great.'
Associated Press
01-07-2025
- Associated Press
PHOTO ESSAY: Istanbul's ferries, a lifeline connecting continents and stories
Associated Press (AP) — Every day, ferries of all shapes and sizes glide across the waters of Istanbul, their wakes intertwining to form intricate lattices of churning foam. The passenger boats are more than just a means of transportation — they're entrenched in the historic city's identity, as memorable as its skyline and as constant as the cries of seagulls. They carry not just people, but also their stories. Forty million commuters, tourists, vendors and other travelers ride the Istanbul Metropolitan City Lines every year, according to official figures. Trips can range from as little as 10 minutes to several hours, depending on the destination. For some passengers, the vessels are a scenic commute to work, at times turning into temporary offices where phones ring, laptops hum and voices compete to be heard over the sound of roaring engines. For others, the boats provide a floating refuge, a brief escape from the grind of daily life in a swarming city of 16 million people. 'I feel that when you travel by ferry… you replenish energy that has been diminished,' said Ali Akgun, who has lived in Istanbul for nearly 50 years. 'I love the sea.' The ferries travel on dozens of routes across the Sea of Marmara, a wholly Turkish body of water, as well as the Bosporus, the strait that both divides and bridges Europe and Asia. Visiting Istanbul for the first time, Leila Bihi, from Morocco, experienced her first ferry ride between continents. 'It's already quite special to go from one bank of the (Bosporus) to the other,' she said. 'Looking at monuments that are modern and ancient during the call to prayer. … It's a bit reminiscent of the whole city, its history, its mystical side.' For centuries the Ottoman Empire, modern Turkey's predecessor, used maritime routes for not only travel, but also military expeditions. Its capital, Constantinople, was a major center of trade due to its strategic location flanked by critical waterways. This enduring bond with the sea continues in Istanbul, where water has always been more than a scenic backdrop — it's embedded in the fabric of the centuries-old city, shaping its character and the lives of its residents. 'I think it's the most beautiful stage in the world,' said Ramin Kargozari, a musician who makes a living playing his guitar while riding ferries. 'Making music on the water, on a ferry, is great.'
