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Hamilton Spectator
18-07-2025
- Hamilton Spectator
In this Canadian city, strolling the romantic cobblestone streets is like exploring an open-air museum
Only in Canada is a travel series that acts as a love letter to the bucket-list destinations and experiences in our beautiful country. Look for more Only in Canada stories online at . The lobby of the ritzy Auberge Saint-Antoine in Quebec City is decorated with cracked glass jars, broken bits of mud-stained pottery and archaic ceramic pipes mounted in display cases. Billed as a 'museum hotel,' the auberge isn't simply playing up Old Quebec's history-steeped reputation: It's located on a site settled by Europeans in the 1600s, so every time the owners expand or renovate their property, they need to do a proper archeological dig, uncovering the treasures on display. 'It is essential that our hotel highlights the city's history,' says Evan Price, who co-owns Auberge Saint-Antoine with his family, 'and we do it in a way that blends into the design and decoration of the property.' While this hotel, and similarly historic properties such as the legendary Fairmont Le Château Frontenac , intentionally leans into its storied past, discovering remnants of early Canadian history is inevitable in just about every corner of Old Quebec. Auberge Saint-Antoine, billed as a 'museum hotel,' is located on a site settled by Europeans in the 1600s. People often describe Quebec City as the closest thing you can find to old European elegance in North America, but the historic quarter has a flavour and charm all its own. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Vieux-Québec was founded in the early 17th century by Samuel de Champlain. The explorer sought a place for a New France colony on the St. Lawrence River and settled on a site bordered by the important port area, which was, for the aim of building a new country, crucial for trade and defence. Ramparts were erected to protect against attacks from the British and other potential invaders. Today, this is the only early North American settlement to have maintained those defensive walls. The way that early settlers would have protected and simply lived in the city comes to life in these remarkably well-preserved streets. Old Quebec is divided into two sections: the Upper Town (made famous by images of Le Château Frontenac looming over a dramatic clifftop) and the riverside Lower Town. The cobblestone streets of the latter are home to Auberge Saint-Antoine, as well as must-sees like the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires church and adjacent Place-Royale, the town square representing the first permanent French settlement in the Americas. You can absorb the historic atmosphere by simply strolling around the streets of Petit-Champlain. From here, it's possible to reach the dizzying views of Upper Town's Dufferin Terrace on foot, though the walk up is punishingly steep. Visitors with mobility issues or those simply wanting to spare their calves can hop on the Old Quebec Funicular, a short cable rail line, which has been hauling people up the hill since 1879. (Don't worry, the technology has been improved along the way.) From both the upper and lower vantage points, there are layers of history here, representing New France settlements, British military victories and the transition toward modern Canada. Old Quebec's narrow stone streets are lined with historical buildings now housing art galleries, antique shops and the first Simons department store (which only dates back to 1870). You can drink in the 400-year-old atmosphere by simply strolling around rue du Petit-Champlain, or dig deeper with a visit to the Plains of Abraham , a large green space that was the site of major French/English battles in the 1700s; La Citadelle du Québec , a military fortress that serves as part of the city's fortification; or Forts-et-Châteaux-Saint-Louis, an archeological crypt under Dufferin Terrace. The Plains of Abraham, a national historic park of Canada, was the site of major French/English battles in the 1700s. The streets of Old Quebec are undoubtedly touristy. In the peak season, the area buzzes with cruise-ship travellers trailing interpretive guides (there's no shame in lingering among them to pick up some historical facts). For every cool artisanal shop and thoughtful, chef-driven Quebecois restaurant in the area, you'll find a cheesy souvenir shop or over-crowded poutinerie, but ultimately the crowds reflect the distinctiveness of this place. In a country with so little recorded history reaching beyond a handful of generations, being able to walk in those early settlers' footsteps is essential to understanding not only how Canada started, but also how we have evolved. Elizabeth Chorney-Booth travelled as a guest of Bonjour Québec , which did not review or approve this article.

Business Insider
05-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Business Insider
I spent a night at the 5-star Fairmont Pacific Rim in Vancouver and regretted not booking a longer stay
I spent one night at the Fairmont Pacific Rim, a five-star hotel in Vancouver, British Columbia. I slept in a Fairmont Gold room that costs about $725 per night. I left the luxury hotel wishing I'd booked a longer stay. When I think of the Fairmont hotel brand, two words come to mind: historic luxury. From Quebec City's Fairmont Le Château Frontenac to the iconic Plaza Hotel towering over Central Park in Manhattan, every Fairmont hotel I'd stayed in or gawked at from across the street had been reminiscent of a renaissance castle — until I spent one night at the Fairmont Pacific Rim in Vancouver, British Columbia, in May. "We're a lot more contemporary with a different demographic," a representative of the Fairmont Pacific Rim told Business Insider. While Fairmont's heritage hotels give guests a peek into the past, the Fairmont Pacific Rim embraces modern luxury. The five-star hotel has won numerous awards since it opened in 2010, including being named the No. 1 hotel in Western Canada in the Condé Nast Traveler 2024 Readers' Choice Awards. One lavish night in a $725 room at the Fairmont Pacific Rim swept me off my feet. In fact, I left wishing I'd booked it for a longer stay. The Fairmont Pacific Rim is in downtown Vancouver's Coal Harbour neighborhood. The Fairmont Pacific Rim was one of many glass skyscrapers lining the Coal Harbour waterfront in downtown Vancouver. But it was the only one with strips of text lining several stories of the 22-floor facade. In 2-foot-tall, spaceless, lowercase Helvetica Bold lettering, each line read, "lying on top of a building…the clouds looked no nearer than when I was lying on the street." The installation by UK artist Liam Gillick was the first of many indicators that the Fairmont Pacific Rim celebrates art and design. The second was the vibrant BMW coupe in front of the entrance, which looked like a page from a comic book. According to the hotel's Instagram page, pop artist Jeff Koons hand-painted the fancy car. Inside, the lobby is known as "Vancouver's living room." From fashion and music to sculptures and paintings, the Lobby Lounge showcased all types of art. High-end fashion was displayed on mannequins in glass boxes and hanging bird cages. Nestled in a corner was a stage with a piano and drum kit, played by a range of musicians on the rise. Spinning figures of children stood over 6 feet tall on top of a marble fireplace. The Lobby Lounge also has a raw bar serving sushi and cocktails. "It's commonly known as Vancouver's living room because it's so popular for locals," the hotel representative told BI. I wish I'd had more time to hang out in the lobby and listen to live music while munching on sushi. Since I was in a Fairmont Gold room, I checked in on the 20th floor. You can think of Fairmont Gold as a first-class experience. It's an elevated section of the hotel on the 20th, 21st, and 22nd floors with premium rooms and its own mini lobby lounge with complimentary snacks throughout the day. "Essentially, the Fairmont Gold product is like a club floor," the hotel rep told BI. "It is a brand-new product for us, which we're super excited about." Fairmont Pacific Rim's Gold experience launched in March 2025. The rep said the design of the lounge and rooms was inspired by Vancouver's natural beauty. Floor-to-ceiling windows surrounded the lounge, offering views of the harbor, skyline, and mountains. The Fairmont Gold Lounge had complimentary breakfast, afternoon snacks, and evening appetizers exclusively for Gold guests. I was surprised to learn that breakfast was made to order rather than served buffet-style. I ordered scrambled eggs and chicken sausage and paired them with toast, fruit, and fresh orange juice. The eggs were soft and fluffy, just like I like them. All the ingredients tasted fresh and filled me up without spending a dime. If I had stayed longer, I would have liked to try more of the complimentary breakfast dishes, like the brioche French toast or the avocado toast. I stayed in a 400-square-foot Gold Harbour Mountain View room on the 20th floor. The hotel has 367 guest rooms and 60 Fairmont Gold rooms. I stayed in a Gold Harbour Mountain View room that sleeps up to four people. The hotel rep said that the best available rate for this room is 984 Canadian dollars, or about $725, though BI received a media rate for the one-night stay. My room had a king-sized bed, a bathroom, a sitting area, and a balcony accessible via floor-to-ceiling windows. I thought the room was stunning. With custom furniture and unique decor, this was one of the most beautiful hotel rooms I'd ever stayed in. I was immediately taken by the handblown glass Bocci chandelier, which had air plants peeking out from the bulbs. I sank into the custom velvet couch in front of the windows, and warm accent lighting made the space feel even more luxurious. Out on the balcony, I marveled at the grand views of the harbor, spotting seaplanes, yachts, and skyscrapers sitting beneath mountains. Upscale amenities enhanced the luxury feel. My bedside table had an oil diffuser, a smart tablet with room controls, spa booking capabilities, and in-room dining services. The framed TV across from the bed was a whopping 75 inches with a Bose sound bar. I appreciated the small details, too, like the leather box that held the TV remote and lifestyle magazines with elegant spreads highlighting architecture, photography, design, travel, and more. In the evening, an attendant came by for turndown service, where I selected premium pillows and oil scents from a menu. The spacious bathroom felt like a spa. Each Fairmont Gold room has an oversize bathroom coated in black marble, with two sinks, a lit mirror, a glass shower with two showerheads, and a deep bathtub topped with a resin tray. A separate toilet room with a sliding door was at the back of the bathroom. The toilet was luxurious, with a light beaming inside the bowl and an upscale bidet with options to heat the seat, change the water temperature, and a dryer mode. The bathroom had luxury amenities from Le Labo toiletries to a Dyson hair dryer that I fell in love with. After five minutes of use, my damp hair, which drapes past my waistline, looked like it had just gotten a blowout. But the real spa was down on the fifth floor. The five-star Fairmont Spa set a calming mood upon entering. Warm lighting beamed through thin wood panels with a soothing water feature against a wall. In addition to massage, facial, and meditation treatments, the spa has several amenities, including a mineral bath, fitness center, Jacuzzi, and infrared sauna, among others. There's also an outdoor relaxation lounge with gravity chairs and views of the surrounding city. During my stay, I didn't have time to book a spa treatment, but I'll be sure to do so next time. The pool is outdoors on the sixth floor. From November through April, a portion of the pool deck transforms into the Nordic Spa, which moves guests through a range of temperatures with a cedar plank sauna and cold plunge pools. On the second floor, I found the hotel's restaurant, Botanist. Botanist looked like a restaurant inside a greenhouse. Dining tables were surrounded by living plants, lit by floor-to-ceiling windows. "The menu is inspired by the Pacific Northwest, so everything is hyper-local," the hotel rep told BI. The restaurant serves brunch, lunch, and dinner. The menu features sustainably sourced proteins like wagyu beef, grilled octopus, and black pepper-crusted salmon. It also includes hand-cut pasta, locally sourced produce, and lobster Benedict. Also on the second floor, there was a rotating art gallery. "This hotel is a platform for creativity," the hotel rep told BI. "We blend influences of art, music, and fashion." The art in the Pacific Gallery rotates every three months. During my visit, the exhibit was Angela Teng's Colourwork, a series where crocheted acrylic paint acts as yarn. The vibrant art popped in an otherwise white room. I think art enthusiasts would be inspired by a stay at the Fairmont Pacific Rim. But don't book just one night like I did.
Yahoo
23-05-2025
- Yahoo
For a slice of Parisian charm without the crowds, consider Quebec City
Craving the romance of Paris without the jet lag or legions of other people? The City of Light welcomed nearly 30 million visitors in 2023, and even more admirers plan to travel there since the 2024 Summer Olympics and reopening of the Cathedral of Notre Dame. Canada's Québec City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with French roots, emanates European elegance yet welcomes about a fraction of the visitors as Paris. Flights from the United States clock much shorter times too, providing travelers with Old World charm minus the travel fatigue. French, British, and North American cultures weave together in this walkable, refined city. 'Québec City is French-speaking, but it's North American, and it's unique,' says David Mendel, an author and historian who has lived in Paris and has also resided in Old Québec for almost 50 years. Cobblestone pedestrian streets wind past candlelit cafes and shops adorned with yellow awnings and overflowing flower boxes. Seventeenth-century stone buildings topped with steep, mansard roofs huddle around every corner. Cafe seating spills into walkways and French voices lilt on the breeze. You might think you're in Paris because Québec City was founded by Europeans and largely built by Europeans, explains Mendel. Erected as the capital of New France, the French empire in North America from the 1600 to 1700's, Québec City stands on a promontory. Port of Québec, the oldest in Canada, connects the St. Lawrence River to the Great Lakes and the Atlantic Ocean for global trade. Considered to be the world's most photographed hotel, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac beams proudly from the cliff with its copper roof, circular and polygonal towers and turrets, and dormer windows. Canadian Pacific Railway built this beauty in the French 'Châteauesque' style to encourage tourism. Narrow streets and public squares hug the winding topography. The fortified upper town remains the only completely preserved walled city north of Mexico. In fact, this enchanting municipality looks so much like Europe that it stunt-doubled for France in the 2002 movie Catch Me If You Can. Travelers can cover a lot of ground in a few days, as most of the major sights in Québec City lie within a few miles walk of the city center. Stroll Old Québec for boutique shopping in Quartier Petit-Champlain and art gallery and antique perusing on Rue Saint-Paul. With a star-shaped citadel above, Plaines d'Abraham urban park commemorates where the French and British fought for the fate of New France. Similar to its European big sister, Québec City also boasts a Notre-Dame. The white stone, Neoclassical structure remains the first Catholic cathedral north of Mexico and contains one of seven holy doors in the world. 'Walk through the courtyard archway and you'll feel like you're suddenly in Europe,' says Mendel. 'While Québec City brims with history, it is very much alive, with some institutions still functioning in the same locations since the 1600s.' While Québec City may be chillier than Paris in winter, Canadians know how to champion the cold. The Québec Winter Carnival warms hearts with its spirited ice canoe races, frosty snow baths, and spiced Caribou drinks—a mulled wine best enjoyed between mittened hands. Toboggan down Dufferin Terrace or listen to the crunch of ice crashing in the St. Lawrence River as you're enveloped in steam at the Strøm Nordic Spa. Visitors to Old Québec feel like they've been transported inside a snow globe during the holiday season. In May 2025, the province of Québec became Canada's third destination to receive Michelin ratings, after Vancouver and Toronto. François-Emmanuel Nicol, the chef at renowned restaurant Tanière3, wrote the letter that encouraged Michelin to deploy its anonymous inspectors. His AAA Five-Diamond, Relais & Château restaurant impresses, foraged Indigenous ingredients married with French cooking techniques, and this May earned him two Michelin stars. 'In France, the culinary scene is huge with classics like wild game,' Nicol says. 'Québec has its own clout. With farmland all around the city and access to wild ingredients, foraging is a huge part of the Québec identity.' Diners rave about the gastronomically transcendent tasting menu, which can be savored in stone cellar vaults. 'We play on the fact that Québec is the perfect middle, basically between North American and European cultures with its French influence,' says Frédéric Cyr, culinary director at Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. Beyond poutine and maple syrup, you'll find Québec is also known for nutty cheeses and sweet strawberries. Don't miss the French onion soup blanketed by bubbly Le 1608 de Charlevoix cheese at Bistro Le SAM. Chefs rely on close relationships with small suppliers on the adjacent isle, Île d'Orléans, where 95 percent of the land is still devoted to agriculture. While Paris is flanked by islands with historical buildings, farms flourish on Quebec City's Île d'Orléans. Take a tour with Concierge du Terroir to sample sparkling wines and orchard delights like apple nachos. Even those with a petite sweet tooth will want to taste test the black currant vanilla swirl soft serve at Cassis Monna & Filles as well as the indulgent, Belgian chocolate-cloaked ice cream at Chocolaterie de l'Île d'Orléans. Frantz Noël, co-owner of Conciergerie du Terroir, has also lived and worked in Paris. He explains that Québec City buzzes with a similar cafe culture to the French capital, but in a more relaxed fashion with patio chairs facing each other instead of out to the street. Tours to the island often start at Montmorency Falls, where the cascading commences nearly 100 feet higher than Niagara Falls. Auberge Saint-Antoine, a boutique, museum hotel educates with artifacts from three centuries of Québec history on display. Just like a fairytale, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac enchants with its stenciled ceilings, crackling fireplaces, and views of the Saint Lawrence River. For a cooler experience, travelers turn to North America's only ice hotel: About 20 miles northeast of Old Québec, Hôtel de Glace is constructed each winter with a new artistic theme. Hold hands in hot tubs under the stars, then snuggle up in sleeping bags on ice beds inside igloos. Cortney Fries (pronounced 'freeze') is an award-winning, Chicago-based freelance writer who specializes in family travel, outdoor adventure and wellness. Over the past decade, Cortney has covered hiking in Alaska, sleeping in an ice hotel, swimming with manatees, whitewater rafting the New River Gorge, ziplining in Costa Rica and kayaking in Tenerife. She's always up for an adventure and believes that you should definitely try anything that makes you slightly nervous.

Business Insider
20-05-2025
- Business Insider
I'm a New Yorker who went to Vancouver for the first time. 7 things surprised me.
I didn't expect to start my trip with a unique experience in the airport, and it made me excited for the coming days. When I landed in Vancouver after a six-hour flight, I followed fellow passengers through the international terminal to customs. On the way, we walked through a room that made me stop in my tracks. It looked like a museum exhibit. Known as the Pacific Passage, this room was designed by Aldrich Pears Associates to immerse visitors in the natural wonders of British Columbia upon arrival. As I entered, I was entranced by the soundtracks of waves crashing and birds chirping through the overhead speaker. The room had a forest scene on the left, a body of water on the right, and sculptures by indigenous artists on display — a canoe in the water and a gigantic thunderbird suspended in the air, among others. The city was far more lush than I was expecting. I've grown accustomed to a lifestyle with limited access to nature in New York. We have plenty of parks, but the skyscrapers and bustling streets dominate the landscape. I long for more natural escapes within my city, but I always assumed the lack of them was the price you pay for a convenient, urban lifestyle. That's not the case in Vancouver. From the downtown area to the quieter surrounding neighborhoods, various tree types stood as tall as the buildings, if not taller. There was no shortage of shade, and looking over the city from hilltops and hotel balconies, I could see how forests were embedded throughout the skyline. I was blown away by the city's quiet hiking trails that felt miles away from the bustling streets. After seeing Vancouver's forests from a distance, I wanted a closer look. So I wandered Stanley Park and Jericho Beach Park. From the trails, it was easy to forget I was in the middle of a major city. Hiking from one neighborhood to the next rather than walking through the developed streets was a scenic route I never expected to find. I was stunned by the castle-like hotel that stood out among skyscrapers downtown. I spent my first night at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, a historic hotel that looks like a castle. I had stayed in a similar Fairmont in the past, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac in Quebec City, where the castle-like structure matched the old-world European-style town. But I was surprised by the Vancouver hotel's location in the middle of the downtown area in a busy city. The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver looked like a medieval relic next to modern skyscrapers. From the balcony of a hotel room, I spotted something I'd never seen before — a floating gas station. I spent my second night in Vancouver at the Fairmont Pacific Rim, which overlooks Coal Harbour. From my balcony room on the 21st floor, I was astonished to spot a Chevron gas station in the water. Installed in 2010, the Chevron Legacy is the only gas station for boats in the harbor. Its placement made sense, since I saw a marina full of yachts nearby, but I'd never previously thought about how boats fuel up. I was in awe of the mansions along Billionaires' Row with striking architecture and regal landscaping. NYC's Billionaires' Row is world-famous for its ultra-luxury residential buildings with glass facades that tower over Central Park. Vancouver's Billionaires' Row looks vastly different. The elite Belmont Avenue in the West Point Grey neighborhood is home to some of the most expensive real estate in the city, including a 10-bedroom, 16-bathroom mansion valued at roughly $72 million, according to Coast Reporter. A 20-minute drive from downtown, Belmont Avenue is lined with mansions with large lots and ocean views. During my visit, I spotted a range of architectural styles, from Victorian to modern. The most surprising part of these properties was the landscaping. Perfectly trimmed trees, bushes, and hedges stood above vibrant flower beds. They looked like grounds you'd find at a European palace. I didn't expect to leave with dreams of moving in. I love living in New York, but don't plan to stay here forever. I've always thought that whenever I decided to leave the city for a place with more space and nature, I'd end up somewhere that left me longing for the urban lifestyle. But visiting Vancouver made me realize I can have it all — the mountains, the hikes, and the bustling city streets. On the day of my departure, I daydreamed about what my life would be like if I moved there. And one day, I just might.