30-05-2025
Beyond bland: Try these five Italian whites with Pinot Grigio's universal appeal
The benefit of bland, of course, is that it's only offensive to people who really want their wines to taste of something beyond 'crisp easy drinking'. The truth is that much of the time, most wine drinkers are more focused on getting the goss from their fellow drinkers or enjoying the food that they're sharing together — and fair enough.
Not all Pinot Grigio is bland, of course, but even the better-made ones with a bit more character are unlikely to be divisive in the way that, say, pungent New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or racy German Riesling or buttery oaked Aussie Chardonnay can be. When you're pleasing a crowd, Pinot Grigio has understandable appeal.
However, so do many other Italian varietal white wines, such as the Fiano (see below) featured in Lidl's current promotion, which runs until June 15. Other highlights include Lidl's Langhe DOC Nebbiolo 2022 (€10.99) with its raspberry balsamic character, and clean summery Mithus Vigneti del Vulture Basilicata Rosato 2023 (€12.99).
Fiano is an ancient grape variety native to Campania in southern Italy but also grown in neighbouring Puglia, as here. It tends to produce whites with some richness and generous aromas, depending on where and how it's grown, as does the not dissimilar if zestier Falanghina.
Italian wines are often a blend of several grapes and so don't always namecheck their grape varieties, but there are many single varietal styles worth trying. These include Carricante and Grillo from Sicily; Verdicchio from Le Marche on the Adriatic coast (due north of Rome); Pecorino from Le Marche and its southern neighbour Abruzzo; Friulano or Ribolla Gialla from Friuli north-east of Venice; and Vermentino from Liguria and Piemonte in the northwest and the islands of Sardinia and Corsica.
These are just some of the white wine grapes that produce charming wines across Italy's vast and diverse wine regions. If you're buying any without a recommendation or prior knowledge of that particular wine, its producer and where and how it was grown, the most offensive thing about them is likely that they might be a little light and bland — just as cheap and cheerful Pinot Grigio can be — but they are always worth a spin.
Wine of the week
I Clivi Friulano San Pietro 2023, Fruili Colli Orientali, Italy, 13pc, €24.50
The grape here is Friulano, a somewhat lesser-spotted varietal from north-east Italy which has been mistaken for Sauvignon Blanc but leans more to refreshing citrus, herb and apple than pungent gooseberries or white currants. This very pretty expression grown on sunny slopes (clivi means 'slopes') evokes fragrant dried apple crisps and fresh almonds or beechnuts. For a more savoury white wine, try the Ribolla Gialla A Tessa, or for a pale smoky red, the Schioppettino (aka Ribolla Nera). Selected independents, including 64 Wine, Pinto Wines;
Masseria Metrano Fiano Salento IGT 2023, 12.5pc, €11.99
Aromatic with notes of white flowers and wild herbs, pears and white peaches, with a subtle nuttiness leading to a relatively weighty texture with medium-low acidity but lifted by some refreshing salinity and citrus-peel pithiness on the finish. Pair with caprese or vegetable-based salads. Lidl
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Cantine Belisario Terre di Valbona Verdicchio di Matelica DOC, Marche, Italy, 12.5pc, €17.99
There is a distinctive stony minerality here but also spicy floral aromatics, both due to the higher altitude and more continental climate of the Matelica DOC, further inland then the Marche's better-known Castelli di Jesi DOC. Selected independents including Bradley's, Cork,
Cantina Frentana Pecorino Terre di Chieti 2024, Abruzzo, Italy, 12pc, €18.20
Some nice concentration of fruit with fleshy white peach and subtle floral notes lending a slightly exotic character, with a textural quality and pleasant citrus freshness. A versatile food wine that will pair nicely with vegetable-based dishes, fish and white meats. Quintessential Wines, Drogheda
Azienda Agricola La Jara Pinot Grigio, Veneto, Italy, 12.5pc, €16
Delicate yellow fruit aromas lead to a light and pretty mid-palate and clean crisp finish. A lovely example of an organic Pinot Grigio with charm — and watch out too for the semi-sparkling Prosecco Frizzante at a similar price and also in picnic-friendly half bottles (€9.99, Selected independents including Martins,
