Latest news with #French-leaning
Time Out
22-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
Rockefeller Center is now home to a fancy Mexican steakhouse
New York isn't lacking when it comes to finding a great steak. But it's not all just heavy wood-paneled rooms this and tufted plush booths that. In fact, the reason why our scene is so great is because of the contemporary takes on the art form, many of which draw influence on a global scale. Daniel Boulud debuted his French-leaning ode to steak with La Tête d'Or last year, teasing us with Sweetbread Nuggets and French Wedge Salads before the pièce de resistance wheels up to the table: the prime rib trolley. Meanwhile, Korean-inflected steakhouses rank in their own category in NYC, as prime cuts are rubbed with shio kombu and koji at Gui Steakhouse and lamb chops are slicked with ssamjang at Golden Hof - Korean Bar & Grill (recently rebranded from NY Kimchi). Even this year, the title of the best steakhouse in the world went to the ever-buzzy Korean BBQ-slash-steakhouse that is Cote. Another global leaning steakhouse made its debut in midtown this summer and the influence here is all Mexico. Last month, Rockefeller Center welcomed Cuerno to its ranks, opening its doors on June 19. From co-founders Alberto Martínez and Victor Setién of the Costeño Group, the steakhouse pays tribute to Mexico's culinary traditions, paying particular attention to its roots in live-fire grilling. 'Bringing Cuerno to New York City has been a longtime dream," said Martínez in a press release. 'This opening represents the heart of who we are and where we come from. It's a tribute to our roots, our culture, and the flavors we grew up with, and it gives us the opportunity to share the true spirit of Mexican hospitality with the world.' The interior is certainly a handsome find with light woods intermixed with brick elements, curved booths wrapped in tan leather and an illuminated wine cellar stocked with varietals from the homeland of Mexico. It's all framed by a mural from Saltillo-based artist Federico Jordán that sits in the dining room, fashioned from tiles made of soil that comes from northern Mexico. But that's just a feature of one of the dining rooms as Cuerno houses over 200 seats across its bi-level property, including a lower level for seating with a corner dedicated to private dining and an outdoor patio right out front. Putting the brand's philosophy of 'el servicio más chingón' to practice, each table starts with a complimentary frozen hibiscus margarita. It's then followed by a tray of chips and salsas, plural, as five different types hit the table, including a smoky matcha salsa. Shareables continue with Chihuahua cheese and chorizo-topped Queso Fundidos, salads that sub croutons for bits of fried pork chicharrón and cold hamachi slices lashed with chile chiltepín. There's an entire section dedicated to tacos, be it the thinly sliced ribeye that nods to Mexico's Taco el Chingón or the golden-fried, bite-sized branzino option, cooked Baja-style. Yet, the flashiest of them all goes to the Taco Taquero. More of an experience than just an entree, the $38 tacos include a tableside presentation where a chef chops pearl onions and ribeye steak together before spooning fire-roasted bone marrow over it. But make sure to hold onto the salsas to dress up your tacos, your way. However, if you'd rather have a steak outside of the confines of a tortilla, you can have that too. Aged for 24 days, steaks are prepped in the kitchen's Josper Charcoal Oven, an imported Spanish grill with the ability to caramelize and imbue smoke on veggies and proteins alike. USDA Prime cuts find their way through the smoke in the flame, as the kitchen turns out Ribe Eye a la Sal and Tomahawk, both crusted in Colima sea salt, and the short rib, slow roasted over a 12-hour period. By the time the meal ends, you may think you are full. But we implore you to save, or really, make room for the Pastel de Campechanas. One of the more popular desserts, evident by its constant appearance on trays and tables throughout the restaurant, the massive, caramelized puff pastry comes with a complement of vanilla ice cream, candied pecans and a heavy helping of dulce de leche.
Eater
14-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Eater
A Virgil Village Natural Wine and Vinyl Bar Shutters After 8 Years
is an editor of the Southern California/Southwest region, who covers the evolving landscape of LA's food scene. Virgil Village wine bar Melody closed on January 12 after eight years in the neighborhood. Melody was first opened by Eric Tucker and his now-ex-wife, Paloma Rabinov, in 2017 as a wine bar with French-leaning food and vinyl DJs on the decks. It evolved throughout the years to host some of LA's most exciting pop-ups; the pair eliminated the nightly food menu in favor of hosting pop-up residences, such as Malli and chef Tiana Gee's SoulPhil. Tucker announced the closure of Melody in an Instagram post on July 2, thanking the staff and customers for the years of support. The Los Angeles Times reports multiple factors contributed to the bar's closure, including a dip in business with the 2023 writers' strike, the January 2025 wildfires, the current political climate, and high costs of living in Los Angeles. Although Melody is technically closed, Tucker will host 'Bar Band-Aid' out of the bungalow starting July 16 until another operator comes into the space. Expect lower-cost wine, beer, and bar snacks. A new cocktail menu at La Dolce Vita Beverly Hills Italian restaurant La Dolce Vita just refreshed its cocktail menu, introducing new drinks alongside classics like the LDV Gibson and the signature martini. New cocktails include All Day and a Night with Cynar, gin, and grapefruit soda; A Tree Grows in Brooklyn with dill-infused vodka; and Pine Barrens with mandarin liqueur. Summer chef collaborations at Rustic Canyon A coffee pop-up with a twist A new coffee pop-up is headed to Silver Lake tapas and tinned fish restaurant Bar Siesta. Cortado opens on July 17 from actor Jhon Mejía, who is also behind You, Me, & Joe, a television show about coffee. Drawing on Mejía's entertainment roots, the entire pop-up will be documented for an upcoming project. Cortado will be open from 7 a.m. to 12 p.m., serving pan con tomate, jamón, and signature coffee drinks, from Thursday to Monday.
Eater
07-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Eater
North Center Welcomes a Beefy New Addition
From a fancy French-leaning steakhouse (The Alston) and a Korean-influenced one (Perilla Korean American Steakhouse) to an upcoming asador that embraces Mexico, Spain, and Argentina (Trino), Chicago's obsession with meat hasn't been satiated, even as PETA declares Chicago as America's Most Vegan-Friendly City. That's a concept not lost on Sami and Simon Mikhail, the brothers behind North Center Prime. Rather than add to the growing number of meat-focused restaurants in Chicago's downtown area, the duo opted for a neighborhood-oriented steakhouse on the North Side. Open since early June at 4138 N. Lincoln Avenue, the Mikhails aim to offer all the amenities of a classic city steakhouse — think premium beef, thoughtful service, tableside preparations — but with prices 15 to 20 percent lower. 'We want to make it accessible to the average person who doesn't want to spend $300 for a steakhouse experience,' says Sami Mikhail. Located in the former ROCKS Northcenter space, North Center Prime hopes to attract the changing demographics of the neighborhood. 'North Center and Lincoln Square have evolved with more new families and less college kids,' says Simon Mikhail, who also owns Si Pie Pizzeria in East Lakeview. 'When we were building out the space, the neighbors kept telling us they were happy we weren't a sports bar.' Sami Mikhail, who worked at several Chicago restaurants, including the now-closed Kyoto, Sushi-Steak-Seafood; and chef de cuisine Dervin Orellana, who most recently was the chef at the Amalie Arena in Tampa, Florida, have created a menu that primarily sticks to the classics. 'A lot of steakhouses have become modernized, but some of that old school stuff is still great,' says Simon. To start, there's steak tartare made with filet mignon, oysters Rockefeller, and braised escargot topped with puff pastry. Both the lobster bisque (light on cream, heavy on lobster, says Simon Mikhail) and Caesar salad are served tableside. Seafood entrees include pan-seared diver scallops paired with braised endive and microgreens, and Chilean sea bass served with grilled broccoli and an herb beurre blanc. For the rotating selection of meat, expect anywhere from eight to 10 different cuts, including filet mignon, New York strip, bone-in ribeye, and porterhouse. A 32-ounce tomahawk ribeye is meant for sharing. Rack of lamb and double-cut Berkshire pork chop are menu regulars. For now, the steaks are wet-aged for 28 days, but an in-house dry-aging program is in the works. Meat dishes currently range from $39 to $95. An infrared broiler that goes up to 1,600 degrees Fahrenheit is used to cook the steaks, a similar technique used at top steakhouses like NYC's Peter Luger Steakhouse, says Simon Mikhail. 'We wanted to get a nice, seared crust and char without overcooking,' he says. Steak and entrée add-ons range from blue cheese crumble and bone marrow butter to foie gras, as well as sauces like chimichurri and béarnaise. Side dishes include four kinds of potatoes, including a truffle potato gratin, and thyme butter-sauteed wild mushrooms. Desserts stick to the old-school theme like the flambéed tableside bananas Foster and soon-to-join-the-menu cherries jubilee. For now, Prime is BYO as the restaurant waits for approval of its liquor license. In the meantime, a mocktail program is being created for those bringing in their own alcohol. To transform the once casual bar into a more formal steakhouse, dramatic chandeliers are paired with Edison-bulb light fixtures. Tables are topped with white tablecloths in the main dining room with seating for up to 100. Exposed brick walls provide a striking textural contrast to the shiny, dark hardwood floors. French doors open to the cozy side street patio. In the lounge area, a smattering of high-top tables is located near the 15-seat bar, which was recently resurfaced. Service is another important aspect at North Center Prime. 'We want to make sure two to three people touch each table,' says Simon Mikhail. 'Service and food are what we are focusing on and will help make us a successful steakhouse in this area.' North Center Prime , 4138 N. Lincoln Avenue, reservations via OpenTable See More: Chicago Restaurant Openings
San Francisco Chronicle
24-06-2025
- Entertainment
- San Francisco Chronicle
It used to be a clubhouse for S.F.'s literati. Now it's the city's most mysterious restaurant
When I told my editor I had dropped by Lillie Coit's a few weeks ago, her response was immediate. 'Oh interesting!' she Slacked. 'One of the most mysterious restaurants in S.F. What is it?!' What is it, indeed, and is it even open? Lillie Coit's website offers this description: 'Before Lillie Coit's makes its grand opening, we're inviting our neighbors, friends, and in-the-know San Franciscans to experience Petite Lil's— a neighborhood preview while we are still building.' According to its Instagram, Petite Lil's launched over two years ago, and the full restaurant, Lillie Coit's, will 'be opened when we're Ready!' When I visited in May, the French-leaning restaurant seemed to be making incremental progress toward Readiness. The walls were swatched with paint. There was a sawhorse in the back corner, and the workman who had been manning that sawhorse was drinking at the bar. My party of four squeezed into the alcove that will someday become the Willie Brown booth, but which at the time consisted of two mismatched bar tables pushed together. A restaurant in a vague state of openness with a years-long build-out might not be noteworthy were it not for Lillie Coit's location. It occupies 1707 Powell St., the North Beach building that formerly housed the legendary Washington Square Bar & Grill, known to a generation of Herb Caen readers as the Washbag. In 2017, the Chronicle reported that Nick Floulis, the owner of Hole in the Wall Coffee (itself located on the site of another historic San Francisco institution, the Paper Doll Club), hoped to have Lillie Coit's up and running by the following year, so it seems unwise to make any firm predictions about when the restaurant may or may not open. But no matter — Petite Lil's is currently receiving guests and is worth a visit in its own right. The somewhat limited menu is plenty enticing and definitely quirky. For an additional $9, you can add a 'green Chartreuse luge' to your $18 order of bone marrow, and when you buy a $99 bone-in tomahawk 'booth steak' and a $18 French omelet, you get a shot of house amaro (it's Montenegro) gratis. We did just that, and both the omelet and the 32-ounce steak — served with herb or anchovy butter, or, in our case, both — were superb. For dessert, there was a slice of fanciful St. Honoré cake ($12), walked all the way across Columbus from Victoria Pastry Company. It's a classic for a reason. We departed before 10 p.m., but had we stayed, we surely would have partaken in oyster happy hour, which runs until 1 a.m. The purchase of six oysters ($23) gets you six more free. According to a white board dangling over the bar, someone by the name of Nathan Lane allegedly consumed 120 oysters in a single eve. Nathan, you doing OK, bud? On a Thursday evening, the majority of the bar seats were occupied, and Floulis, who appeared to be holding down the fort with the help of one other bartender, seemed to know most everyone. Lillie Coit's might be mysterious to most San Franciscans, but to North Beach locals and industry folk, the secret is out. Petite Lil's at Lillie Coit's. 1707 Powell St., San Francisco.
Time Out
27-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
Review: There's nothing in L.A. quite like the hardest reservation in Palm Springs
The first time I dined at Bar Cecil, my visit to Palm Springs had been planned less than 48 hours before. It was in the midst of the devastating January wildfires, and my sinuses were screaming in protest, even with two air purifiers running in my apartment. I was lucky enough to live outside of the evacuation zones, but I could not sleep well, I could not breathe well and after two days of inhaling toxic chemicals, I could barely think straight. Guiltily, my partner and I decided to flee to the desert. The suburban sprawl of the San Gabriel Valley was bathed in ominous, orange-tinted sunlight as we drove east. Eventually, we reached the Inland Empire, where the skies were once again a peaceful, comforting shade of blue. By the time we arrived at the Plaza Del Sol Shopping Center in Palm Springs, it was nearly 5pm and we were hungry, both literally and for a taste of normalcy. We parked the car and I sprinted to put my name down. Alas, I was too late: The 12 walk-in bar seats at Bar Cecil were already full. In the end, we opted to wait in the tiny, tranquil courtyard for over an hour. The chilled, expertly made martini that followed, as well as the green salad, duck liver pate, flat iron steak frites and chocolate chip cookies that accompanied it, turned out to be one of the most satisfying meals I've had in Southern California this year—and I've visited over a hundred restaurants since. Since opening in 2021, Bar Cecil has been one of the most popular reservations in Palm Springs, if not the most difficult one in the greater Coachella Valley. The intimate 75-seat restaurant's name and colorful, maximalist interior design are inspired by Sir Cecil Beaton, the late British photographer, designer and all-around queer icon, whose portrait hangs on the wall by the bar. The classically inclined drink program includes several variations on a martini, including a supersized $50 version listed under the cheekily labeled 'Why Not?' section of the menu. Tying everything together are the culinary offerings from chef partner Gabriel Woo, a Palm Springs native who skillfully incorporates produce from San Diego's Girl & Dug Farm and locally grown dates onto the seasonally inspired, French-leaning menu. If I'm being honest, there isn't anything being served at Bar Cecil you haven't already seen somewhere else in Los Angeles. There is a 'colossal' shrimp cocktail; buttery, traditionally prepared escargot anointed with parsley and lemon oil; a quintet of fluffy dinner rolls accompanied by sweet whipped butter; and of course, a burger, which can be made with an Impossible patty or supplemented with avocado or bacon. But for all the stylishly designed L.A. hangouts serving crowdpleasing bistro fare and cocktails, there isn't a single place in the city that comes close to Bar Cecil. Much of that can be chalked up to the chef's culinary mastery. Woo's concise menu might sound fairly safe on paper, but from start to finish, the execution of every dish is downright brilliant. It's no wonder the four-year-old restaurant remains popular among locals and tourists alike. Before my second—and full disclosure, hosted—visit in early May, I was wandering around the parking lot and happened across a woman closing up shop for the day. 'You're going to Bar Cecil? Man, I end up there about once a week,' she told me. After checking in with the host, my party of two was led through the string-lit, tiled floor patio and seated in one of the four booths in the dining room. Essentially all tables at Bar Cecil are held for reservations, which are released online at midnight 14 days in advance. During the summer, when daily temperatures regularly crack triple digits, Bar Cecil fully encloses the patio and blasts a few portable air conditioners, converting what would have otherwise been an uncomfortably hot alfresco setup into an extension of the temperature-controlled dining room. To kick off the night, I ordered the $50 martini. Despite the eye-popping price point, it's one of the most popular cocktails on the menu. Made with Jean-Charles Boisset vodka, the supersized drink is adorned with a house-pickled pearl onion. The martini also comes with a caviar-topped deviled egg and a side of seasoned fried sunchoke chips that vaguely reminded me of dried cannabis in both taste and appearance. Regulars who order 10 of the pricey martinis over time can get their name and a catchphrase of choice put on a small golden plaque, joining a small, but growing hall of fame visible on your way to the bathroom. I sampled two other cocktails later in the evening to explore what Bar Cecil's other non-martini options were like, but I'll be honest: Even with a full meal in me and a little help from my plus-one, the $50 martini left me so utterly sloshed I barely remember what the other two drinks tasted like. It's that big. Next came the restaurant's famous bread rolls, which come served with whipped sage butter sweetened with local dates. Fluffy and warm, the rolls practically melt in your mouth, and it was difficult to stop myself from eating more than one before digging into the mild but tasty steak tartare. The highlight among the starters is undoubtedly the bowl of steamed Prince Edward Island mussels, served in an herbaceous, immaculately prepared red curry. The delicate bivalves themselves were so creamy and delicious, I was reminded of a meal I once had in Brussels, home to some of the best moules frites I've ever eaten. For mains, we ordered the steak frites with the filet mignon upgrade and the smoked pork chop. It was my second time ordering the steak frites. This time around, I was in Palm Springs under far less dire circumstances, but the steak, freshly cut fries and bearnaise sauce were just as excellent as when I first ordered them—confirming that my high regard for Bar Cecil wasn't solely due to the fact it was my first real meal after days of nonstop reporting on restaurant-related wildfire news and barely eating due to stress. The filet was flawlessly prepared medium rare as requested, but I would still recommend the more reasonably priced flat iron option; unless you're craving the tenderness of filet mignon, the standard cut will most definitely satisfy. I also loved the tender pork chop, perfectly paired with broccolini, potatoes au gratin and a seasonal fruit chutney. While the food and drink options are undeniably top-notch, the unique decor and one-of-a-kind ambience are what further sets Bar Cecil apart. From the minute you walk past the host stand, your eyes are already feasting on the twinkling string lights, charming patio furniture and the gargantuan silver tureen of oranges, lemons and limes that sits on a stone tabletop by the entrance. Inside the actual dining room, the walls and shelves behind the bar are full of modern art and books—the private collection of Bar Cecil's aesthetically inclined owners, Richard Crisman and Jeff Brock, who are partners in business and in life. The level of detail in the design and layout is truly impressive; the couple even commissioned a matching green mini-split AC unit to blend in with the accent wall of patterned green wallpaper. In the months between visits to Bar Cecil, I quietly mourned for my city and racked my brain trying to answer my own question: Where could I approximate the same experience in Los Angeles? While the real answer is nowhere, the two places that come closest—and though I say close, they both miss by miles—are Bar Etoile in East Hollywood and the Benjamin 'Hollywood,' which is actually on Melrose. Needless to say, neither place replicates the splendid surroundings of Bar Cecil. Recently recognized by the Michelin Guide, Bar Etoile is essentially an oversized wine bar. There's a reason for this—the stylish restaurant comes from the team behind Domaine LA, one of the best wine shops in the city. I'm partial to the cavernous baby blue booths and horseshoe-shaped bar, which also serves a decent martini, along with other reasonably priced cocktails. The menu also includes a terrific plate of steak frites, but chef Travis Hayden, who most recently worked at Voodoo Vin in Virgil Village, runs a subtler, market-driven menu dominated by small plates and cheffy renditions of typical wine bar fare. From an outsider's perspective, the Benjamin more closely resembles Bar Cecil, with dinner rolls, deviled eggs, shrimp cocktail, a burger, steak and chocolate chip cookies on the menu. The Art Deco-inspired interiors are luxurious in their own right, but unlike Bar Cecil, the straightforward food is overpriced and missing a certain je ne sais quoi, and the scene most nights is downright insufferable. On a night when table reservations were backed up, I once witnessed a group of men seemingly lifted straight out of Entourage whine to the host about missing their bottle service reservation at the club. The drinks, however, are excellent—and you can now get them upstairs at the newly opened Bar Benjamin without having to invest the time and money on a full meal. There are, of course, a few other left-field contenders. One is Coucou, a new-school bistro with locations in Venice and West Hollywood. The pre-batched cocktails are great, but the food menu is largely inconsistent, though I did enjoy the veggie French dip and soft-serve sundae with chocolate hard shell. Another is Bar Sinizki, which culinarily leans Eastern European but also offers a standout steak frites and a full bar. In truth, nothing scratches my itch like the Palm Springs original. Realistically, L.A. could never have a place like Bar Cecil, because it would be absolutely, utterly rammed, more than it already is. The next time you're planning a trip to Palm Springs, you know what to do—line up in the parking lot at 4:30pm to try your luck at the bar, or if you're smart, just make a reservation.
