Latest news with #GaneshHingmire
Mint
7 days ago
- Business
- Mint
Can the law save Kolhapuris from being trodden on?
Prada's debut of Kolhapuri-inspired footwear on the runway in Milan has sparked questions on the legal protections given to traditional crafts. Now, an advocate has moved the Bombay High Court demanding Prada compensate local artists. What can the law do? What did Prada do to upset Indians? Italian luxury atelier Prada debuted a pair of leather slippers, reportedly inspired by Kolhapuris, at its men's fashion show in Milan this June. Following public outrage in India for what some say is cultural appropriation, Prada acknowledged it was inspired by Maharashtra's traditional footwear. It later promised to engage with a group of Kolhapuri artisans at a meeting held by the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce. Now, Pune-based IP rights lawyer Ganesh Hingmire has filed a Public Interest Litigation demanding an apology and compensation from Prada for artisans making Kolhapuris. What is the PIL's legal argument? Hingimire says Prada violated India's 1999 law on Geographical Indication (GI). Kolhapuris have had a GI tag in India since 2009, preventing anyone from 'replicating" or 'rebranding" these heritage goods without credit to the original artisans. The petition also asks the High Court to grant an injunction against Prada, preventing it from selling the so-called 'toe-ring sandals" and award compensation or damages to Kolhapuri artisans. It also says that the Maharashtra authorities must help artisans form their own Association of Producers–mandatory for the makers of any product with a GI tag. What is the case's current status? The Bombay High Court will hear the PIL on 14 July. Prada's head of corporate social responsibility said that their 'toe ring" sandals were still in an early development stage and not confirmed for commercial production yet. Prada reps may also meet Kolhapuri artisans in Mumbai to discuss ways to work together on designs for the brand. What can international law do? The World Trade Organization recognizes GI in its Agreement on Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights, or TRIPS. Its articles define and recognize legal protection for specialized goods such as fruit, tea, textiles and liquor. But TRIPS does not prescribe any punishment for countries or organizations that violate GI tags of goods produced in WTO member countries. Another international law, the Lisbon Agreement, also protects GI tags and Apellations of Origin (AO). But India is not a party to it. Can the law protect Indian goods? Yes. In the late '90s and the early 2000s, the Tea Board of India successfully sued firms in the US, France, Japan and Russia for using the 'Darjeeling' trademark in violation of the GI tag given to tea grown in the slopes of West Bengal. Hingmire told Mint India's fundamental rights also protect Kolhapur artisans from alleged exploitation. However, Indian courts have not directly restrained a foreign brand for violating a GI tag yet. Besides, Prada has neither named its sandals 'Kolhapuris' nor officially put them on sale.
Time of India
04-07-2025
- Business
- Time of India
Kolhapuri chappal gets leg-up over ‘copying' by Italian brand
Mumbai: A public interest litigation filed in Bombay high court seeks reliefs against Italian luxury fashion label Prada after it showcased open-toe leather sandals at the recent Milan Fashion Week that are "deceptively similar" to the Kolhapuri chappal. "The Kolhapuri chappal is the cultural symbol of Maharashtra and has special public sentiments attached to it. The act of copying and misrepresenting this craft in international markets effectively amounts to depriving local artisans of rightful recognition and credit for their work, who have preserved and practised this traditional art form for nearly 800 years," states the PIL filed by six advocates led by Ganesh Hingmire, an intellectual property rights expert. According to their petition, Kolhapuri chappal is protected with a geographical indication (GI). On June 22, Prada held its Spring/Summer 2026 Men's collection unveiling toe ring sandals "reportedly priced at over Rs 1 lakh per pair". There was no mention that it was Indian-inspired design. "The infringement of the design of the Kolhapuri chappal by a luxurious fashion label is without the knowledge or consent of the GI application holder or the authorised users," it adds. You Can Also Check: Mumbai AQI | Weather in Mumbai | Bank Holidays in Mumbai | Public Holidays in Mumbai While Prada "privately accepted" its collection is "inspired by Indian artisans", this acknowledgement surfaced after widespread backlash on social media. This acknowledgement was not given to the "makers of Kolhapuri chappals, GI Registry, the govt or public at large". Prada has not issued a formal apology, and the statement appears to be a "merely superficial attempt to deflect criticism". The petition said misuse causes "dilution of the GI identity, erodes its distinctiveness and unjustly enriches the foreign brand, depriving the artisans of the right economic and reputational benefits". The PIL says: "The handicraft is the result of countless hours of meticulous labour by artisans." Thus, Prada's "unauthorised profit-oriented motive displaying sandals deceptively close to Kolhapuri chappal and inscribing the word 'PRADA' on the footwear directly undermines the livelihood and dignity of the traditional artisans and authorised users of GI". The petitioners lament that the artisan community is not financially equipped to initiate civil proceedings, does not receive adequate support from govt bodies, and lacks awareness of their community rights, leaving them vulnerable. They want "strong, decisive measures to address these violations and set an exemplary legal precedent that deters future acts of cultural misappropriation". They have prayed for restraint and a permanent injunction on Prada from "commercialising the use of so-called toe ring sandals, which is originally a GI-tagged product, Kolhapuri chappal", to direct Prada to issue a widely circulated public apology and pay compensation to artisans for "reputational and economic damages." The PIL will be heard in due course.
NDTV
04-07-2025
- Business
- NDTV
Prada Dragged To Court Over Rs 1.2 Lakh Kolhapuri Chappals: "Pay Back Indians"
New Delhi: The row over Kolhapuri chappals has escalated with a public interest litigation (PIL) filed in the Bombay High Court demanding that the Italian fashion house, Prada, pay monetary compensation to the artisans of the footwear. According to the petitioner, Ganesh Hingmire, an intellectual property advocate, while Prada accepted that its collection is inspired by Indians, the acknowledgment only surfaced after facing widespread backlash. "The Kolhapuri chappal is the cultural symbol of Maharashtra and has special public sentiments attached to it. The brand has privately accepted that its collection is "inspired by Indian artisans"; however, this acknowledgment surfaced only after facing widespread backlash on various social media platforms. This acknowledgment was given to the private entity and not to the applicant, makers of Kolhapuri Chappal, Geographical Indication (GI) Registry, government, or the public at large," the petition read. Mr Hingmire also added, "The brand has not yet issued any formal apology along with damages, compensation, and an entitled remedy, and the statement appears to be merely a superficial attempt to deflect criticism." The petitioner has also demanded a court-supervised collaboration between Prada and artisan associations for co-branding, capacity building, and revenue-sharing. Justifying his petition, Mr Hingmire said that a legal order in the case will "prevent international companies from copying or imitating Indian GI products. "Expecting these fragmented artisan groups to individually file civil suits against a global fashion conglomerate is unrealistic and unjust," he added. Mr Hingmire also cited an NDTV article on author Shobhaa De reacting to the row over Prada unveiling Kolhapuri flats. The petitioner has also criticised global fashion brands for copying traditional Indian designs like brocade, block printing, bandhani, sharara, and saree. This comes as Dior is also under fire for showcasing an intricately crafted coat at the luxury label in Paris on June 27. The coat stood out because of its use of mukaish work, a metal-strand embroidery technique from Lucknow. However, the Indian artisans were not given their due credit, triggering a backlash. Prada's Kolhapuri chappals row The Italian luxury fashion brand featured the leather flat sandals, priced at approximately Rs 1.2 lakh, at the recent Milan runway show. The sandals closely resemble traditional Kolhapuri chappals, which raised questions over cultural appropriation and intellectual property rights, particularly as Kolhapuri chappals received GI status in 2019, recognising their cultural and regional significance. However, a lawyer had said that a GI infringement case may not be sustainable. "Prada has taken a view that these are flat sandals and that there is no misrepresentation. A passing off action could be explored, but it may not be a strong case of infringement. Prada could have avoided controversy by clearly acknowledging the Indian inspiration behind the design," senior lawyer Ameet Naik said. The issue has prompted reactions from various government officials and industry bodies. Karnataka Minister Priyank Kharge emphasised that the names, work, and legacy of the state's artisans who craft these iconic chappals must be recognised, not sidelined. Taking a dig at the brand, he pointed out that Prada is essentially selling Kolhapuri chappals for Rs 1.2 lakh a pair. He also highlighted that many of the artisans behind these handcrafted chappals live in Karnataka's Athani, Nippani, Chikkodi, Raibag, and other parts of Belagavi, Bagalkot, and Dharwad districts. "They've been making these chappals for generations, selling them in nearby towns, especially Kolhapur, which became the default market and, over time, the brand. We need to invest in skilling, branding, design innovation, and global market access for these artisans. They don't just deserve credit, they deserve better prices, wider exposure, and the chance to build lasting, dignified livelihoods from their craft. When international fashion houses adopt our designs, it is our artisans whose names, work, and legacy must be showcased - not sidelined," he said.
Time of India
03-07-2025
- Business
- Time of India
Kolhapuri chappal scandal: Bitter PIL for Prada
Live Events (You can now subscribe to our (You can now subscribe to our Economic Times WhatsApp channel Pune: A public interest litigation (PIL) has been filed in the Bombay High Court demanding that the Italian fashion house Prada should pay monetary compensation to the artisans making Kolhapuri chappals . Prada had presented a toe ring sandal collection at Milan that was inspired by India's Kolhapuri petitioner is an intellectual property advocate Ganesh Hingmire, who has named the leading global fashion brands that have copied Indian traditional designs like brocade, block printing, bandhani, dressing styles like Sharara and the PIL has also demanded a court-supervised collaboration between Prada and artisan associations for co-branding, capacity building, and revenue-sharing."A legal order in this case will prevent other international companies from imitating or duplicating Indian GI products," the PIL said."Expecting these fragmented artisan groups to individually file civil suits against a global fashion conglomerate is unrealistic and unjust," said Hingmire, justifying the rationale behind the PIL also sought directions to government entities and authorities for forming associations of producers and farming policies for swift intervention against international GI industry body Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), which had first written a letter to Prada about the issue, thinks that this is a blessing in disguise for the heritage product at the centre of the controversy."We will like Prada to impart technical skills to our artisans and set up an excellence lab not only for chappal but also for other products like the Paithani saree and anklet from Hupari near Kolhapur," said Lalit Gandhi, MACCIA thinks that the protection under the GI law is not so strong at the international level. "We have decided to initiate the process to get a patent as it offers stronger legal protection than GI for all the products that have GI registration," said pointed out that India has successfully fought infringement of GI violation at international level in the case of Darjeeling Tea, whose GI was protected by the Tea Board.
