Latest news with #GasherbrumI
Yahoo
05-06-2025
- Sport
- Yahoo
Kangchenjunga: The Season's Last Summits?
Everest is not the only 8,000'er where time is running out; many climbers are betting on "now or never" pushes on Kangchenjunga. Today, teams are reporting several summits, including 10 members of Mingma G's Imagine Nepal expedition. Amongst them, Naila Kiani of Pakistan bagged her 12th 8,000'er and fellow Pakistani Sirbaz Khan summited the peak again, just days after completing his no-oxygen 14x8,000'er quest. This time, Khan used supplemental oxygen because he was guiding, leader Mingma G told ExplorersWeb from Advanced Base Camp. Other members of the summit group included Sashko Kedev of Macedonia (on his 13th 8,000'er with only Gasherbrum I to go), Wang Zhong of China, Hakon Asvang of Norway, and Maria Alexandra Danila of Romania. The guides included Khan, Pemba Chhiri Sherpa, Ngima Nuru Sherpa, Kili Pemba Sherpa, and Prem Bahadur Tamang. Imagine Nepal's team will try to return to Advanced Base Camp today. At the time of writing (2:45 pm, Nepal time), they were near Camp 2. Australian Allie Pepper is attempting to reach the summit without oxygen, she is supported by Mikel Sherpa. Earlier today, Pepper left Camp 3 at 6,800m and is slowly ascending. At 2:30 pm, her tracker put her at 7,350m, still far from the 8,586m summit. As with Everest, teams have gained altitude gradually from camp to camp -- a strategy now possible with the large supplies of O2 -- and have launched summit pushes when the weather allowed over the last seven days. As on Everest, there were many summits on May 18, with teams taking advantage of relatively light winds at summit altitude. For now, there is little information about those ascending or descending on Kangchenjunga. The descent is a serious challenge; Kangchenjunga is not only the third highest mountain on Earth, but the normal route is very long, longer even than the normal route on K2. It is an exhausting climb to the summit, but climbers need to save enough power for a descent involving steep sections and long plateau traverses. The mountain has already taken a climber's life. On May 11, Margareta Morin of France died on her first 8,000m climb. Meanwhile, British climber Adrian Hayes was injured while descending and spent a night above 8,000m in the open. He eventually made it down and rescue services airlifted him to hospital for treatment.
Gulf Today
19-05-2025
- Sport
- Gulf Today
Pakistan's Sirbaz scales 14 world's highest peaks without oxygen
In a moment of great pride for Pakistan, renowned mountaineer Sirbaz Khan became the first person from Pakistan to summit all 14 of the world's highest peaks without supplemental oxygen, completing the milestone by reaching the top of Kangchenjunga. This remarkable feat was accomplished in Nepal, according to Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan. The final milestone came on Sunday when Sirbaz reached the summit of Kangchenjunga (8,586 metres) at 11:50am local time. A native of Hunza Valley, Sirbaz began his journey in 2017 with the ascent of Nanga Parbat. 'When I started this journey after summiting Nanga Parbat, my goal was clear: all 14×8000m peaks without supplemental oxygen,' he had said earlier during his Annapurna climb. Globally, fewer than 25 climbers have achieved this feat without oxygen, placing Sirbaz in one of the most elite circles in mountaineering history. Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world, was scaled by Sirbaz in full alpine style-a method marked by complete independence and minimal support, without fixed camps or external oxygen. Haidri emphasised that Sirbaz Khan's incredible journey is a decade-long tale of passion, sacrifice, and endurance, adding that he climbed all the eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen and without using pre-established camps. This achievement not only places Sirbaz Khan among the elite ranks of the world's greatest climbers but also illuminates Pakistan's name on the global mountaineering stage. The Alpine Club of Pakistan has officially declared Sirbaz Khan a national hero, with Haidri noting that this son of Gilgit-Baltistan has etched his place among the finest climbers in mountaineering history. 'Sirbaz Khan's success,' said Haidri, 'is a glowing torch of inspiration for the new generation.' Sirbaz has consistently broken ground for Pakistani climbers. He became the first Pakistani to scale Lhotse in 2019, followed by Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in 2021, and Makalu in 2022—all without bottled oxygen. In 2023, he summited Cho Oyu, and in October 2024, he completed Shishapangma—his 14th and final peak. He also led all-Pakistani expeditions to Gasherbrum I and II, helping elevate Pakistan's profile in high-altitude mountaineering. By re-climbing the two previously oxygen-assisted peaks, Sirbaz Khan has not only met his personal goal but also set a new national benchmark in mountaineering excellence. Agencies
