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The Advertiser
11-07-2025
- The Advertiser
A Hawaiian road trip with family, fierce waves and unforgettable moments
Road-trip ready in Oahu. Picture: Getty Images By Lance Richardson Updated July 11, 2025, first published July 12, 2025 You have not truly arrived in Hawaii until you spot one of the countless feral chickens strutting somewhere it does not belong. My first sighting is on the freeway heading into Honolulu; the chicken steps off the median strip into heavy traffic, apparently suicidal, and I think: Yes! I have missed this strange and wonderful place. Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area I first visited the island of Oahu some 15 years ago. That trip was part of an ongoing effort to escape from family and expectations - to shake everything familiar for a while and taste true freedom. I figured I would travel for a bit, like many young Australians do, and then settle down in Sydney and grow up. But I never got around to returning home again. I kept travelling, moving further and further away from where I'd started, until I found myself living near Boston, a permanent exile. This time I have come to Oahu not to escape family, but to be reunited with it. My parents have just disembarked from an international cruise. My husband and I have flown in to meet them for a few days of leisure. The plan is to tour the island in a rental car together, driving my mother and father from secluded beach to shrimp shack, just as they used to drive my siblings and I around during school holidays. Waipio Fruit Shack in Hawaii. Picture: Hawaii Tourism Authority We find them in a Waikiki hotel, drinking with other Australians - friends who also took the cruise - in a seventh-floor hallway. This happy hour celebration, unsanctioned by the hotel staff, is an economic response to the brutal exchange rate. "We went to a tiki bar and had two cocktails each, and it was $180!" one of the women tells me, her voice quivering with righteous indignation. My mother is sipping a drink mixed from various bottles on a table. My father, dressed in a festive Hawaiian shirt, holds out a paper cup full of Jim Beam - a welcome toast. Aloha. Anybody who sees their parents only sporadically knows that ageing tends to happen in jump cuts. You hold an image in your head of what they looked like during the last meeting, and then suddenly, in a disconcerting flash, you are forced to revise that image, superimposing years and wrinkles over their faces. The impression is only heightened on this trip because a mysterious illness has recently left my father with less than half his lung capacity, and shockingly underweight. In the afternoon, we shuffle slowly through the enormous outdoor mall of Waikiki, catching up on news from Down Under, and I have a moment of vertigo as I realise that my parents have somehow grown old when I wasn't paying attention. The writer (second from left) with his family. My father soon returns to the hotel to rest. For our first Hawaiian dinner, we escort my mother to join the line at Marugame Udon on Kuhio Avenue, where an "Udon master" stretches fresh noodles in the window like a magician performing tricks. After we finally get served and take a seat inside, my mother declares that the dashi broth is "not bad" - it is excellent, in fact - before revealing, with a resigned sigh, that my father has started using a cane with a fold-out chair. The Windward Coast and North Shore Oahu is a modest 1546 square kilometres in size, with a coastline of just 365 kilometres. A drive is the optimal way to explore the island, and the best one takes you up the east side - the Windward Coast, so-named for the trade winds that blow in across the Pacific - then west along the wild North Shore, and then south through the island's verdant centre, right back to Honolulu, forming a convenient loop that can be completed in a single morning and afternoon. We start at Leonard's Bakery, which is marked by a hard-to-miss Vegas-style neon sign. Leonard's Portuguese donuts, called malasadas, explode with guava, coconut or macadamia nut cream, so your hands end up sticky on the steering wheel. "It's like eating air," coos my mother from the backseat, the pink donut box cradled by her side as we head out of the city. Diamond Head, an enormous volcanic tuff cone, rises from the island like a meteor impact. We pause at the Amelia Earhart marker - commemorating her first solo flight from California to Hawaii in 1935 - then continue through expensive oceanfront neighbourhoods where warning signs announce a Tsunami Hazard Area. (Beautiful views come with a measure of risk.) After about 20 minutes of driving, we reach the Holona Blowhole Lookout. The ocean explodes through a tiny chute, sending a plume of water high into the air. But my attention is drawn to the road ahead, which hugs a prehistoric coast so spectacular it seems straight out of Jurassic Park: steep crenulated cliffs, and beaches that would, anywhere else in the world, be the kind of attractions promoted on the cover of brochures. Diamond Head. Picture: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson We head up to Kailua and stop at Kalama Beach Park. There are no tourists to speak of, only locals walking their dogs, a guy washing his muscle car, more of those endearing chickens. My father perches on a piece of driftwood to catch his breath, and the rest of us wander down past palm trees to a tide the temperature of last night's dashi broth. People live here, I want to shout, waving my hands around at the obscene beauty. People get to see this every day! As we head farther north, I start to keep a list of all the places I would frequent if this were my home, fantasising a different kind of life. The stalls selling peach cobbler. The orchid farm. The Waiahole Poi Factory, for squid luau and ice cream. The guy grilling huli-huli chicken over mesquite wood by the side of the road. In Punaluu, we stop for lunch at the bright yellow Shrimp Shack, an old truck with rusted-out wheels. "Wouldn't want to drive anywhere with those," Dad whispers. The menu is scrawled on a surfboard, and spice comes in four levels: mild, medium, hot or "lava". We carry our meals across the road to yet another beach, and once the plates are licked clean, I stick my head in Ching's Punaluu Store, which is decorated with portraits of the early Chinese families who once lived in the area, fishing for mahi-mahi in the shallow barrier reef. Luluku Road at Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden on the Island of Oahu. After lunch, the road bends east, and we reach the North Shore, so renowned for its mammoth waves that surfers will flock here and throw themselves into the water as though hypnotised. My father is a veteran of the Australian Navy, and he was briefly stationed on Oahu during the 1970s. "Did you ever make it to the North Shore?" my husband asks from the driver's seat. "You wouldn't have got past the first pub!" my mother interjects, and Dad does not deny it. There are no turtles on Turtle Beach, but Sunset Beach, which hosts the Vans World Cup of Surfing each year, is baking under a hot sun. A lifeguard with a motorised surfboard seems more interested in the waves than he does in patrolling. As I burrow my feet into wet sand, a surfer with a prosthetic leg runs past me shouting "Dude!" - and throws himself bodily into the ocean. A shrimp shack restaurant. Picture: Getty Images Our last stop of the day, a place I have been hyping up to my parents for months, is Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa Town. Ice cream, shaved ice, flavoured sugar syrup, azuki beans, and mochi balls add up to a divine island treat. "It's nice, it's different," my mother says, in a voice so exactly like Kath Day-Knight that it makes me homesick. Then it is straight back through the centre of the island, past pineapple plantations, a Buddhist temple, various military installations. (The US military controls 21 per cent of Oahu's land area.) The mountains are incredible from this angle, but as the sun starts to dip, I hear the unmistakable sound of an older man snoring in the back seat. Look, who doesn't need a break from their parents? If you find yourself on Oahu and want a bit of quiet time, here is a tip. Head to the Kuli'Ou'Ou neighborhood in Honolulu. Park in the backstreets, fill your backpack with bottles of water, and walk to the edge of the forest reserve. The Kuli'Ou'Ou Ridge Trail is 6.5 kilometres, and takes about three sweaty hours from start to finish. Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head. Picture: Getty Images The trail climbs upwards through tropical forest, then up a staircase cut into the side of the Ko'olau range, until you reach a lookout so high it is said you can see the islands of Molokai and Lanai on a clear day. Honolulu unfurls down below to the south. Waimanalo, to the east, nuzzles around a turquoise bay. The view is transcendent. The silence is absolute. Peace. The next morning, we herd my parents into the car and hit the road again. This time we head west from Honolulu, passing Pearl Harbour, where the USS Arizona continues to plume oil from its watery grave. The western side of Oahu is known as the Leeward Coast, a more remote world divided from the rest of the island by the Wai'anae Range. If visitors come here at all, it is usually to see Aulani, the Disney resort - which we speed right past on the Farrington Highway. Dashboard decoration. Picture: Getty Images You cannot drive a full unbroken circle around Oahu. There is no road beyond Ka'ena Point. We came close to one side of the break with our shaved ice at Haleiwa; now we approach the other side by stopping at Keawaula Beach, just past a radar station labelled "US Space Force". The beach is completely deserted, the antithesis of busy Waikiki. We fan out across the sand, making our way towards an ocean that is colder and wilder than it is on other parts of the island. My father, struggling for breath, pauses at a steep incline in the dunes, and watching him, I have a sudden memory of childhood: Dad with a stick, delighting me and my siblings by carving Allan Salisbury's Snake into the sand of some Australian beach. In this remote place so far from home, I am overcome, for a moment, with deep gratitude that we can make this Hawaiian road trip together. Like all parents, my folks can be annoying sometimes, but gosh I love them. Getting there: Hawaiian Airlines, Jetstar and Qantas fly from Australia to Oahu, the main gateway to all the Hawaiian islands. From Oahu, the other islands are a short inter-island flight away. There is also a ferry service connecting Maui and Lanai. Touring there: Several companies offer a day trip around the island, but the optimal way of touring is self-guided with a rental car collected at the airport. This being America, be sure to max out the insurance options. When to go: The summer months (June to August) are beautiful but busy on Oahu, as are the winter months (December to March), which is peak surfing season on the North Shore. Consider visiting during the spring or autumn shoulders, when the weather is still fine and the crowds are thinner. Explore more: The writer travelled at his own expense

Travel Weekly
03-07-2025
- Business
- Travel Weekly
A clean slate at the Hawaii Tourism Authority
Christine Hitt All members of the Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) board of directors have resigned, clearing the way for Gov. Josh Green to make new appointments. In June, Green asked for all board members, including recently appointed board chair Todd Apo, to resign. As of July 2, they have all done so. It is expected that the governor will appoint new board members as the next step in his plan for a fresh start. A lot has changed at the Hawaii Tourism Authority in a few short months. Following the March departure of interim president and CEO Daniel Nahoopii and board chair Mufi Hannemann, a bill introduced in the legislature, which would restructure HTA, advanced. Senate Bill 1571 passed the house and senate in May and was signed by Hawaii Gov. Josh Green into law as Act 132 on May 29. Some of the changes to Hawaii Tourism Authority's structure include stripping the board of its power, by changing it from "a policymaking" board to an "advisory board of directors." The director of the state Department of Business, Economic Development and Tourism has been removed as a member of the board; and the new law allows the House speaker and Senate president to appoint a member. The board still has the ability to hire and fire its CEO, but the governor must approve the appointment "subject to the advice and consent of the Senate." The president and CEO also reports to the governor, according to the bill's text.


Fox News
29-05-2025
- Business
- Fox News
Hawaii enacts 'green fee' on tourists to raise $100 million annually for climate, ecology protection
Hawaii Gov. Josh Green (D) has signed into law a "Green Fee" bill that will raise tourist taxes to help fund "climate-change" mitigation. Senate Bill 1396 raises the tourist tax on Hawaii hotels to 11% starting Jan. 1 — which would then increase to 12% the following year, according to the text of the bill. Portions of the revenue raised would go into the "Climate Mitigation and Resiliency Special Fund" and the "Economic Development and Revitalization Special Fund," according to the bill. The bill addresses invasive species, wildlife conservation and beach management and restoration. It will also help fund a "green jobs youth corps" and areas of environmental concern. "Hawaiʻi is at the forefront of protecting our natural resources, recognizing their fundamental role in sustaining the ecological, cultural and economic health of Hawaiʻi," said Gov. Green in a press release. The Aloha State governor added, "The fee will restore and remediate our beaches and shorelines and harden infrastructure critical to the health and safety of all who call Hawaiʻi home, whether for a few days or a lifetime." In 2023, 9.6 million visitors traveled to Hawaii, according to the Hawaii Tourism Authority. Hawaii already has a 10.25% tax on short-term rentals. The state's counties each add their own 3% surcharge on top of the state's tax, according to FOX 13. "Hawaii already imposes what some believe are high taxes on the hospitality sector and short-term stays," said Travel Tomorrow. The Green Fee is projected to generate $100 million annually, according to the release.


USA Today
09-05-2025
- Sport
- USA Today
Rams HC Sean McVay jokes about team's plans for Maui minicamp
Rams HC Sean McVay jokes about team's plans for Maui minicamp The Los Angeles Rams are taking their June minicamp to the beaches of Maui, Hawaii, this year as part of a partnership with the Hawaii Tourism Authority. It's a first-of-its-kind move for the team and the league, and one Rams head coach Sean McVay joked would be barely about football. 'Let's not kid ourselves," McVay said at the Sportico Invest West event this week, "we're not getting [expletive] done football-wise.' While he said it in jest, McVay noted that the more important part of the trip is getting the opportunity for the Rams (players, coaching staff and other team staff) to immerse themselves in the city and culture. In addition to practices, the Rams will host a girls flag football and boys football clinic as well as a PLAY 60 Field Day during their week on the island. "Typically what we would use that time for anyways is more of connection, team-oriented activities," McVay added. "And when this situation kind of came about it really end being up a cool concept to be able to also include family members, people that aren't players and staff members." So, while the trip will be about football, it won't include as much actual football for the Rams as they continue on in their workout schedule heading into the 2025 season.
Yahoo
07-05-2025
- Sport
- Yahoo
The Los Angeles Rams are heading to Maui next summer
HONOLULU (KHON2) — The Los Angeles Rams are heading to Maui next summer. Fox pulls the plug on 'Rescue: HI-SURF' Team President Kevin Demoff and Hawaii Governor Josh Green, M.D. announced Wednesday a new partnership between the Rams and the Hawaii Tourism Authority aimed at promoting travel to the Hawaiian Islands, with a focus on Maui. At a press conference held at the team's practice facility in Woodland Hills, Demoff revealed that the Rams will bring their 2025 minicamp to Maui. Dubbed Mauicamp Powered by the Hawaii Tourism Authority. The camp will run from June 16 to June 19 at War Memorial Stadium in Wailuku. Get Hawaii's latest morning news delivered to your inbox, sign up for News 2 You 'This is more than just football,' Demoff said. 'It's about giving back to a community that's been through a lot and creating opportunities for engagement, recovery, and visibility.' On-field workouts featuring Rams players in practice gear will take place June 17 and 18, with a series of community events planned throughout the week for local residents. Governor Green said the partnership reflects Hawaii's broader efforts to revitalize tourism in a way that benefits the community. Download the free KHON2 app for iOS or Android to stay informed on the latest news 'This initiative brings positive energy to Maui, especially following the challenges we've faced. It's a win for the island and for Rams fans across the Pacific,' he said. Copyright 2025 Nexstar Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed. For the latest news, weather, sports, and streaming video, head to KHON2.