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Prada, Kering and Tod's Leaders Stake Out the Future of Luxury at Changemakers Event in Milan
Prada, Kering and Tod's Leaders Stake Out the Future of Luxury at Changemakers Event in Milan

Yahoo

time08-06-2025

  • Business
  • Yahoo

Prada, Kering and Tod's Leaders Stake Out the Future of Luxury at Changemakers Event in Milan

MILAN — Intuition and top-notch execution. Those two ingredients were described as key in reigniting desirability for luxury and fashion at a time of market volatility and low consumer confidence. More from WWD Consortium Including Anne Hathaway, Gian Luca Passi de Preposulo Invests in Italy's SailGp Team Aubrey Plaza Brings Breezy Daytime Glam to Cannes with Sheer Blouse and Strappy Prada Sandals at 'Honey Don't!' Photocall Caitlin Clark's Pregame Outfit Leans Into Layers in GapStudio's Crop Top, Trench and Skort With Prada Pumps Speaking Thursday evening at the third edition of Zalando's 'Changemakers in Luxury Fashion' conference organized in partnership with Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana here, industry executives underscored the importance of jumpstarting a new paradigm for the sector. Luxury has a new meaning, said Claudia D'Arpizio, global head fashion luxury at consultancy Bain & Co., now encompassing any tangible or non-tangible good that 'fulfills the needs of the customer, [either a need for] indulgence, belonging, investment or self-actualization.' The perimeter has changed, too. Fashion luxury companies now compete with experience providers, hospitality, food and beverage players, and even art dealers. 'I think that understanding this broader definition of luxury can provide a different meaning to the brands, [which will have to] see wherever they can expand, or wherever they can focus, and have a different horizon on the other brands,' D'Arpizio said. Should one imagine a future when Balenciaga gets into automotive? Or Prada becomes a space company? The latter is already a reality, to some extent. Prada has collaborated with Axiom Space, the architect of the world's first commercial space station, on NASA's lunar space suits for the Artemis III mission. Recognized with the Changemaker Award for Innovation, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group chief marketing officer and head of corporate social responsibility, attributed the move to instinct, a guiding principle at the group, he said. 'I always say that this is a company that invested more than 1 billion euros in engineering R&D in the America's Cup since the end of the '90s and when we started, we started just because my father liked sailing and had this kind of personal excitement,' Bertelli said. He was the self-proclaimed 'nerd' who triggered the company to leverage engineering, tailoring and composite material knowledge into something equally unexpected and outside the traditional perimeter of fashion and luxury as the America's Cup venture. 'All those are instinctive decisions, so there is not much talk behind them, and we don't know if it's going to be successful, but what we have done more than 20 years ago now allowed us to embark on this journey. A simple, instinctive decision taken decades ago is affecting the opportunities, possibilities today, and maybe this is another instinctive decision that will bring us to nowhere, or maybe we become also a space company,' he said with a chuckle. Without necessarily going as far as outer space, luxury brands need to win back customers. Although consumer fatigue is a reality, in part because the price-value equation is no longer deemed fair, and consumer confidence is at the 'lowest level,' as D'Arpizio put it, the prospects from a customer standpoint remain positive. The industry will get to meet 300 million new luxury customers by 2035, the Gen Alpha middle class across the world, and Millennials are expected to inherit about 30 trillion euros of wealth from their Baby Boomer relatives, Bain & Co. forecast. According to the consultancy's research, willingness to spend has not yet contracted beyond tipping point. 'In theory, from a customer standpoint, the market is there,' D'Arpizio said. 'I think it's more in the hands of the brands to establish this connection,' she opined. 'The year 2025 will be one of big changes for many of the brands that are trying, for sure, to reignite growth across all levers — the creative, product and marketing levers — engaging the desire of the customer to reignite the love that probably now is a bit softening,' she said. Case in point, a few brands in the French group Kering's portfolio are off to new creative paths this year, with the debut collections of Demna at Gucci, Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga and Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta coming this fall. 'Our goal is to make creativity shine and make it become a successful business,' said Francesca Bellettini, Kering's deputy chief executive officer in charge of brand development. The recipient of this year's Changemaker Award for Brand Vision, she described her management style as authoritative rather than authoritarian, always prone to listening and building bridges with her teams. 'You have to understand and comprehend the pressure creative people have, and this is why it is crucial to make sure that you choose the right creative talent for a certain brand, for a certain moment. It is absolutely not true that everybody can work for every brand. Some incredible creative people are not simply right for a certain brand or for a certain brand in a certain moment,' she said. 'So in the transitions and the changes that we made, that's what we looked for. We simply expanded further, [understanding] where we wanted to take [the brands] and then we appointed the people that we think are going to be the best to take the brand desirability to the level [we want],' Bellettini said. 'The most important thing in a moment of crisis is to stay true to your brand position and also to recreate desirability. Some brands don't perform because they're not desirable anymore, even if they have beautiful products in their stores. And desirability can be injected only by the creative people in our industry,' she said. Business leaders then have the task of building long-lasting relevance, she said. As consumers shift their behavior, key fashion trends are morphing. A white paper study presented Thursday night and put together by Boston Consulting Group with Highsnobiety highlighted a transition from aspirational fantasy to relevance, with fashion offerings that fit into consumers' real lives, and a general desire to be included in the brand's universe rather than be talked at by their favorite labels. Fashion as an insignia of belonging is at the forefront of the conversation. According to Bain & Co.'s D'Arpizio, self-expression is being replaced by conformity. That means the brands are challenged to answer consumers' desire 'to feel unique and at the same time be part and belong to something that is bigger,' she said. 'I like to feed people with an experience, with a motive that is just coming from the inner side of you,' said GCDS founder and creative director Giuliano Calza, a recipient of the Changemaker Award for New Generation. 'I'm very able to get the attention of the people, but I think that's not enough. You have to leave a mark on them and make them feel like they bought something that is making them happy,' he said. He was joined onstage by fellow awardees Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo of Sunnei. 'The fashion show is not just about the collection in clothes, but it's about creating a cultural moment,' Rizzo said. Reflecting on their 11-year Sunnei journey, the cofounder said that the pair has 'created a bridge from Sunnei to the people, ignoring the system.' Product-centricity is also paramount, at a time when the need for transparency is growing, spurred on by customers' increased knowledge and sophistication, and focus on sustainability. The Boston Consulting Group's study identified quality and craftsmanship as the top drivers of brand desirability, more than hype, scarcity and even cool collaborations, which didn't even make it to the ranking of the top 10 levers. This year's recipient of the Changemaker Award for Craftsmanship, Tod's chairman Diego Della Valle offered his take, saying that it is the right time for 'Italian companies to push our philosophy of handmade products. People know about this story, especially in some countries like the U.S., for example. People understand the Italian lifestyle and that the handmade [concept] is part of that lifestyle. I think today, with artificial intelligence, I think we'd better not forget about artisanal intelligence.' To this end, luxury and fashion consumers are rejecting the new-for-new's-sake cycle in favor of timeless icons, heritage designs and legacy over novelty, the Boston Consulting Group's study highlighted. D'Arpizio associated this taste shift with a resurgence of 'minimalism,' which she describes not as an aesthetic attribute, but rather a more mindful consumption behavior. 'With all this uncertainty that this is growing, a lot of consumers feel detached, and feel like luxury can be linked to a negative meaning of consumerism,' D'Arpizio said. 'I think that this is a topic that brands should tackle to reignite that desire that is linked to culture and to more inclusive meanings, to a purpose that is larger than just consuming and buying products that last for a short period of time,' she said. Best of WWD The Definitive Timeline for Sean 'Diddy' Combs' Sean John Fashion Brand: Lawsuits, Runway Shows and Who Owns It Now What the Highest-paid CEOs at U.S. Fashion and Retail Companies Make Confidence Holds Up, But How Much Can Consumers Take? Sign in to access your portfolio

Patrizio Bertelli, Francesco Milleri, More Fashion Execs Receive Cavaliere del Lavoro Honor in Italy
Patrizio Bertelli, Francesco Milleri, More Fashion Execs Receive Cavaliere del Lavoro Honor in Italy

Yahoo

time06-06-2025

  • Business
  • Yahoo

Patrizio Bertelli, Francesco Milleri, More Fashion Execs Receive Cavaliere del Lavoro Honor in Italy

HIGH HONOR: A range of fashion entrepreneurs and executives have been bestowed with the 'Cavaliere del Lavoro,' or 'Knight of Labour,' honor in Italy. They include Prada Group's chairman and executive director Patrizio Bertelli; Francesco Milleri, chairman and chief executive officer of EssilorLuxottica; Alfonso Dolce, chairman and CEO of Dolce & Gabbana; Maria Giovanna Paone, chairwoman and co-CEO of Kiton's parent company Ciro Paone, as well as Salvatore Ferragamo chairman Leonardo Ferragamo. The latter was recognized for his hospitality business, as president of the Lungarno Collection luxury hotel chain. More from WWD EssilorLuxottica Expands Med-tech Strategy With Acquisition of Ophthalmology Platform Optegra Consortium Including Anne Hathaway, Gian Luca Passi de Preposulo Invests in Italy's SailGp Team Aubrey Plaza Brings Breezy Daytime Glam to Cannes with Sheer Blouse and Strappy Prada Sandals at 'Honey Don't!' Photocall Also in the fashion and design categories, the honor was bestowed upon Anna Beatrice Ferrino, CEO of the namesake textile company, and Federica Minozzi, CEO of tile-maker Iris Ceramica Group. Established in 1901 by King Vittorio Emanuele III, the title is one of the highest recognitions bestowed by the president of the Italian Republic, currently Sergio Mattarella, and recognizes 25 Italian entrepreneurs who have distinguished themselves in different sectors of the economy and contributed to social development, employment, technology and the growth of Made in Italy. In receiving the honor, the cohort follows in the footsteps of other fashion industry personalities including Pietro Beccari, chairman and CEO of Louis Vuitton; Ferruccio Ferragamo; Remo Ruffini, chairman and CEO of Moncler; Federico Marchetti; Gildo Zegna, chairman and CEO of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group; Rosita Missoni; Claudio Marenzi, president and CEO of Herno; Roberto Colombo, president of Lanificio Luigi Colombo, a producer of cashmere and high-quality fibers, and Alberto Barberis Canonico, CEO of the Italian high-end woolen mill Vitale Barberis Canonico, established in 1936 on the outskirts of Biella, among others. Best of WWD Young Brooke Shields' Style Evolution, Archive Photos: From Runway Modeling & Red Carpets to Meeting Princess Diana The Most Memorable French Open Tennis Outfits With Serena Williams, Naomi Osaka & More [PHOTOS] Beyoncé's 'Cowboy Carter Tour' Outfits, Live Updates: Schiaparelli, Burberry, Loewe and More

Hollywood star Chris Evans reveals why he skipped Cannes Film Festival
Hollywood star Chris Evans reveals why he skipped Cannes Film Festival

Daily Tribune

time29-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Daily Tribune

Hollywood star Chris Evans reveals why he skipped Cannes Film Festival

Bang Showbiz | Los Angeles Chris Evans was notably absent from the red carpet at the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, where his latest film, Honey Don't!, made its highly anticipated debut. While the film's director Ethan Coen and co-stars Margaret Qualley, Aubrey Plaza, Charlie Day, and Billy Eichner attended the premiere, fans quickly noticed the Captain America star's absence and began speculating about the reason. Honey Don't! — a comedy-mystery helmed by Coen — was featured in the festival's popular Midnight Screenings section. The film received a warm reception at its premiere in the Grand Theatre Lumière, earning a six-minute standing ovation. Shortly after the event, Evans addressed the speculation directly on Instagram. In a story shared post-premiere, the actor revealed he chose to miss Cannes to celebrate a personal milestone — his mother Lisa's 70th birthday. 'I wish I could've been with my incredible cast and filmmakers at Cannes, but it was my mother's 70th birthday, and there are some things you just can't miss!' Evans wrote, adding a red carpet photo of his castmates alongside his message. He also extended his congratulations, saying, 'Congrats everyone!!' Evans, 43, has frequently spoken about the importance of family in his life. In a 2017 Esquire interview, he reflected on the value of familial bonds, saying, 'I've always loved stories about people who put their families before themselves. It's such a noble endeavor.' Though he wasn't physically present, Evans' heartfelt tribute to his mother and support for his colleagues served as a reminder of the priorities he holds dear — both on-screen and off.

Aubrey Plaza earns standing ovation after first red carpet appearance since husband's death
Aubrey Plaza earns standing ovation after first red carpet appearance since husband's death

San Francisco Chronicle​

time28-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • San Francisco Chronicle​

Aubrey Plaza earns standing ovation after first red carpet appearance since husband's death

Aubrey Plaza made a poignant return to the spotlight, walking her first red carpet since the death of her husband in January. The Marin County homeowner attended the Cannes Film Festival last week in support of the new dark comedy 'Honey Don't!' Plaza stars as a cop who falls into a love affair with a small-town private detective, played by Margaret Qualley (' The Substance '), as they investigate 'a series of strange deaths tied to a mysterious church,' according to the film's synopsis on IMDB. The project also features Chris Evans (who can be seen next month in Celine Song 's 'Materialists'), Charlie Day and Billy Eichner. During its Cannes premiere on Friday, May 23, Plaza and her castmates received a six-minute standing ovation, with one audience member yelling out 'I love you Aubrey' in support of the star, according to Variety. 'More queer cinema all the time,' the film's writer, Tricia Cooke, declared during the applause. 'Honey Don't!' is set to hit theaters Aug. 22, making it Plaza's first feature since her husband, filmmaker Jeff Baena, committed suicide on Jan. 3. The actor is slowly easing back into the public eye as she heals from the loss. In February, she made a live television appearance during 'SNL50: The Anniversary Special' wearing a pink tie-dyed T-shirt, a fashion statement many considered a tribute to both the hobby Baena took up during the pandemic and their wedding day outfits. A week prior, she starred in a Super Bowl commercial for Ritz Crackers, which was filmed last November. The couple had been together for more than a decade, but split months before Baena's death. He reportedly made 'concerning remarks' to Plaza that prompted her to ask a friend to 'perform a welfare check' on him, according to the Los Angeles County Medical Examiner-Coroner. Plaza now seems ready to return to work. She recently signed on for a new drama, 'The Accompanist,' in which she'll play a rookie child-welfare agent. The film follows a new foster parent, played by Susan Sarandon, as she takes in a 9-year-old girl after she was nearly killed by her dementia-stricken grandfather.

Chris Evans Skipped His Movie's Cannes Premiere Because It Was His Mom's 70th Birthday and ‘Some Things You Just Can't Miss'
Chris Evans Skipped His Movie's Cannes Premiere Because It Was His Mom's 70th Birthday and ‘Some Things You Just Can't Miss'

Yahoo

time28-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Yahoo

Chris Evans Skipped His Movie's Cannes Premiere Because It Was His Mom's 70th Birthday and ‘Some Things You Just Can't Miss'

Ethan Coen's 'Honey Don't!' brought Cannes Film Festival to a flashy close on May 23 with the likes of Margaret Qualley and Aubrey Plaza stunning on the red carpet. But the movie's biggest A-list star, Chris Evans, was nowhere to be found. What gives? It turns out Captain America chose his family over one of the world's most prestigious film festivals. Evans revealed his whereabouts on Instagram (via People) a few days after 'Honey Dont!' screened as the final movie in Cannes' official selection. He wrote on his sotry: 'I wish I could've been with my incredible cast and filmmakers at Cannes, but it was my mother's 70th birthday and there are some things you just can't miss! Congrats everyone!!' More from Variety Bi Gan's Cannes Winner 'Resurrection' Nabbed by Janus Films for North America (EXCLUSIVE) Jafar Panahi Returns to Cheers in Tehran as Palme d'Or Victory Prompts Diplomatic Spat Between France and Iran 'The Love That Remains' Review: Hlynur Pálmason's Exquisitely Tender, Increasingly Haywire Portrait of a Family in Limbo Qualley headlines 'Honey Don't!' as a small-town private detective named Honey O'Donahue, who delves into a series of strange deaths tied to a mysterious church. Evans gives an oversized comedic performance as the church's charming but evil minister. Plaza plays a cop who Qualley has a passionate love affair with until things turn sour. Charlie Day and Billy Eichner round out the supporting cast. 'Honey Don't!' marks the second collaboration between Coen and Qualley, who teamed up last year for the road trip crime comedy 'Drive-Away Dolls.' The Cannes premiere of 'Honey Don't!' proved to be a rowdy affair as the movie was met with a six-minute standing ovation as audience members audibly cheered for Plaza and Qualley. The latter's husband, music producer Jack Antanoff, was in attendance for the event. Coen told the audience that the reaction to the film was 'a fun way to end the festival.' 'Honey Don't' will open in U.S. theaters on Aug. 22 from Focus Features. It's one of two indies Evans has lined up for the summer movie season. The other is 'Materialists,' the A24 romance drama from 'Past Lives' writer-director Celine Song that also stars Dakota Johnson and Pedro Pascal. That movie launches in theaters June 13. Best of Variety 'Harry Potter' TV Show Cast Guide: Who's Who in Hogwarts? New Movies Out Now in Theaters: What to See This Week Emmy Predictions: Talk/Scripted Variety Series - The Variety Categories Are Still a Mess; Netflix, Dropout, and 'Hot Ones' Stir Up Buzz

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