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India Today
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- India Today
With ‘Arcanum', Amit Aggarwal weaves biology into the fabric of couture
No showstopper closed Amit Aggarwal's showcase at the 18th Hyundai India Couture Week 2025 because none was needed. His collection didn't just impress his loyal connoisseurs; it transported everyone present into a world where star power felt unnecessary. The clothes were the spectacle – futuristic and designer unveiled 'Arcanum', a collection that strips couture down to its elemental core, human biology. With this showcase, Aggarwal trades surface-level drama for something deeper: the invisible architecture that shapes life itself, our DNA. Amit Aggarwal's Arcanum decodes the human form into pleats, spirals, and metallic grace. (Photo: Instagram/FDCI) advertisementIf his previous collection, Antevorta, explored the fluidity of time, Arcanum is its genetic counterpart. The double helix, the three-dimensional structure of DNA, serves both as a symbol and a structural blueprint for the entire collection. Aggarwal's creativity takes it further, translating the code of life into sculpted silhouettes, precise pleats, and spiralling forms that had the audience fully captivated on the as Anatomy Each look in Arcanum is a wearable metaphor: gowns that twist like strands of genetic code, suits and co-ords that layer sharp tailoring with swirling, organic lines. This is metallic polymers meet traditional textiles (Ikat), structured forms stretch and curve like bioengineered exoskeletons. The result: a hybrid of future and heritage. You could see that coming for the colours that have been used in the collection. The collection was all about innovative materials like metallic polymers and reimagined traditional fabrics. (Photo: Instagram/FDCI) Deep jewel tones grounded the collection in richness, while electric reds, iconic blues, and high-sheen metallics gave it a transcendent, otherworldly edge. The interplay between charcoal, silver, and light-reactive surfaces added a sense of motion and mood, alive and shifting like DNA itself. Sculpted couture meets the sparkle of tourmalines, tanzanites and emeralds. (Photo: Instagram/FDCI) This collection was Aggarwal's vision of blending scientific, artistic, and luxurious elements into couture.A statement, not just a showIf we were to sum the show up for you guys, it was sublime, surreal, with elements that felt otherworldly, but at the same time grounded, as each piece had a story of its own. This time, the couture week wanted to break its identity as just a bridal showcase, and it is safe to say Amit Aggarwal's 2025 couture collection was able to do it to a great extent.- Ends
India.com
09-07-2025
- Lifestyle
- India.com
Top Ethnic Kurta Picks from Myntra for a Stylish Traditional Look
This season, Myntra is the perfect place to find beautiful ethnic wear. Show your patriotic spirit in a simple and stylish way with colorful kurtas made from light, breathable fabrics. These four handpicked kurtas are great for festive occasions and everyday comfort. From pretty floral embroidery and classic Chikankari to trendy off-shoulder styles and bold Ikat prints, there's something for everyone. Easy to wear and full of charm, these kurtas let you celebrate in style without any fuss. Shop now on Myntra for the best ethnic looks. Video courtesy: Myntra 1. Gharana India Embroidered Chikankari Kurta Image source - Order Now This embroidered chikankari kurta blends traditional craftsmanship with modern style. Made with delicate hand embroidery, it offers a graceful and elegant look. Its classic design pairs well with leggings or palazzos, making it a versatile addition to your ethnic wardrobe. Key Features 100% breathable organic cotton Hand‑embroidered floral chikankari work Elegant notch neck & straight midi silhouette Side slits for easy movement Slightly sheer in bright colors—may need a matching slip. 2. Rimeline Women Ethnic Motifs Printed Kurta Image source - Order Now This classic straight kurta, crafted from raw organic cotton, showcases subtle floral chikankari embroidery that adds delicate charm. The understated notch neck and relaxed fit offer breathable comfort, making it an ideal choice for hot days. Effortlessly elegant and easy to wear. Soft, machine-washable cotton All-over printed ethnic motifs Flattering straight cut with sleeve detailing Perfect mid-thigh length Print may fade over time—use gentle cycle washes. 3. Anouk Women Red Floral Off‑Shoulder Kurta Image source - Order Now Make a statement with this vibrant red off-shoulder dress—feminine, fun, and festive. Perfect for sun-ready days, it combines effortless style with a playful, eye-catching flair that turns heads everywhere. Key Features Bold red floral prints Off‑shoulder neckline with elastic hold Lightweight cotton for comfort Flared hem adds movement Elastic neckline may slip—strap it or choose a supporting bra. 4. Taavi Colourblocked Indie Prints Tie‑Up Detail Ikat Kurta Image source - Order Now Based on the traditional ikat print, this kurta finds whimsical delight in a creative use of colourblock and a trendy front tie. It is wonderful when one wants to keep it casual yet effortlessly trendy and stylish for everyday wear. Key Features Authentic ikat-inspired print Cotton-blend for easy care Tie-up front detail for adjustable fit Mid-length, perfect for day events Bright colours may bleed at first—pre-wash with salt. Find yourself a kurta that narrates a tale—be it the prettiness of Chikankari, hip off-shoulder vibe, bold Ikat prints, or minimal ethnic motifs. The dresses featured in these Myntra selections boast breathable materials, everyday office-ready fashion, and a variety of flattering proportions, so you can feel great and stay comfortable all day. Team them up with little to minimal jewellery, flat comfy shoes, and your everyday comfortable office look is complete. Make your dressing a symbol of comfort and pride in our heritage! Explore these kurtas, choose your favourite, and shine bright everyday with zero worries of your buget and grab your favourite today. Disclaimer: At IDPL, we help you stay up-to-date with the latest trends and products. It should not be construed as an endorsement to buy. IDPL may make a very small commission from its sale if one chooses to buy the product from any of the links in this article.
New Indian Express
09-07-2025
- Entertainment
- New Indian Express
Odisha Television Group launches IKATAN collection
BHUBANESWAR: The Odisha Television Group (OTV) has launched IKATAN, a purpose-led initiative that celebrates India's rich Ikat heritage and empowers the artisans behind it, on the occasion of Niladri Bije on Tuesday. Through its e-commerce platform - - the brand offers Ikat connoisseurs an exclusive access to authentic, handwoven Ikat silk sarees. IKATAN's debut collection blends heritage with haute couture, featuring a collaboration with renowned designer Bibhu Mohapatra. His designs bring global visibility to the traditional art form and help position Ikat as a textile worthy of runways, red carpets, and heirloom wardrobes. 'Ikat has always been close to my heart. While weaves like Banarasi and Chanderi have found their space in mainstream fashion, Ikat - especially from Odisha - has been largely overlooked. With IKATAN, we're changing that. This isn't about creating a brand for applause or branding OTV as purpose-driven - it's about building something that outlives us. It's about giving back to the hands that have quietly kept our traditions alive,' said Jagi Mangat Panda, founder of IKATAN and managing director of Odisha Television Group. The group launched an e-commerce platform first to reach people globally and invest directly into the weavers and their ecosystem. Collaborating with designers like Bibhu is just one way of showing the world that this incredible craft belongs on global runways and in legacy wardrobes, she added. As far as affordability goes, IKATAN also has a non-designer line that is more accessible, without compromising on authenticity or craftsmanship.
Fashion Value Chain
28-06-2025
- Business
- Fashion Value Chain
From Kolhapur to Couture: When Global Fashion Labels Ignore Their Roots
Exploring the fashion industry's habit of borrowing traditional crafts without acknowledging the communities that birthed them In the ever-evolving world of fashion, where trends travel faster than light and aesthetics blend across borders, inspiration is the beating heart of design. However, when that inspiration stems from deeply rooted cultural crafts and is then stripped of its context, history, and rightful credit, it becomes something else entirely—cultural appropriation dressed in luxury fabric. One of the most recent cases to ignite this conversation is the global luxury brand Prada releasing a collection of leather sandals that closely mirror the iconic Kolhapuri chappal from India. These sandals, with their braided leather, flat soles, and T-strap design, are nearly indistinguishable from the traditional handmade footwear that originated in Maharashtra centuries ago. Yet nowhere in Prada's promotional campaigns, product descriptions, or credits was the word Kolhapur mentioned. This glaring omission is part of a growing trend in the fashion industry—the silent borrowing of heritage. Kolhapuri Chappals: A Legacy Beyond Leather The Kolhapuri chappal is not just a sandal; it's a symbol of India's artisanal heritage. With over a thousand years of history, this handcrafted footwear is made using vegetable-tanned leather and intricate hand-braiding techniques passed down through generations. It is environmentally friendly, culturally significant, and legally protected by a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in India. The chappals were originally made by the cobbler community in Kolhapur and nearby regions such as Athani and Sangli. Traditionally worn by both royalty and rural populations, these sandals have adapted over centuries but have always remained rooted in their cultural and geographic identity. When a global brand recreates this design and presents it without any mention of its origin, it erases not only the artisans but the entire cultural legacy behind the product. The Pattern of Appropriation in Fashion Unfortunately, Prada's Kolhapuri-inspired sandals are not an isolated incident. Luxury fashion brands have long drawn from the visual and material cultures of various global communities—particularly those from the Global South—without acknowledgment or compensation. Here are just a few examples that demonstrate how widespread this issue is: Ikat (India, Indonesia, Guatemala) Ikat is a dyeing technique where the yarns are tie-dyed before weaving, producing a signature blurred pattern. It is found across several countries, with rich variations in India (Telangana, Odisha, Gujarat), Indonesia (especially Bali), and Latin America (notably Guatemala). Luxury brands have frequently featured Ikat-like patterns in collections described as 'bohemian' or 'abstract tribal,' rarely acknowledging the centuries-old traditions or the regions they originate from. Bandhani & Leheriya (India) These traditional Indian tie-dye methods, native to Rajasthan and Gujarat, are labor-intensive and passed down through family lineages. Their dotted and striped patterns often appear in Western collections as playful or exotic prints—usually with no mention of Bandhani or Leheriya, let alone the artisans who make them. Shibori (Japan) Shibori, a resist dyeing technique from Japan, is known for its striking indigo patterns. Yet, several Western designers have introduced 'modern tie-dye' pieces that closely resemble Shibori, reducing the technique to a seasonal aesthetic without cultural recognition. Otomi Embroidery (Mexico) The bold, colorful embroidery made by the Otomi people of Mexico is often replicated in home décor and fashion items under vague labels like 'folk art embroidery' or 'vibrant ethnic patterns.' The lack of attribution not only denies cultural credit but also devalues the original craft in global markets. Bogolanfini or Mud Cloth (Mali, Africa) This handwoven fabric dyed with fermented mud carries deep cultural symbolism in Mali. Its motifs are widely used in global streetwear and high fashion collections under broad labels like 'tribal print' or 'African-inspired,' often with no reference to the Bogolan craft or the meaning behind its symbols. The Consequences: Economic and Cultural Erasure When global fashion brands co-opt traditional crafts without acknowledgment, the damage is not merely symbolic—it is profoundly economic, cultural, and systemic. This form of erasure affects entire communities whose livelihoods and identities are tied to these crafts. Economic Injustice to Artisans Traditional artisans—many of whom come from marginalized or rural communities—rely on their craft not only as a creative outlet but as a means of survival. When a global brand mimics their work without collaboration or compensation, it undercuts the artisan's ability to compete in the market. The luxury version often carries a far higher price tag, marketed with the sheen of exclusivity, while the original makers struggle to find buyers or gain visibility beyond local bazaars. Moreover, these brands profit exponentially from designs that are part of an artisan's inherited knowledge system. The imbalance of economic benefit—where the creators remain in poverty and the imitators profit—is a clear case of exploitation disguised as innovation. Loss of Authenticity and Dilution of Technique Traditional crafts are often rooted in specific processes, materials, and philosophies. For example, Kolhapuri chappals use vegetable-tanned leather, which is eco-friendly and part of a slow, skill-intensive process. When global brands replicate the form using synthetic materials or factory-made shortcuts, the result may visually resemble the original, but it lacks the integrity, symbolism, and sustainability that define the craft. This mass-market reinterpretation flattens the complexity of traditional knowledge. Centuries-old weaving techniques, dyeing rituals, or embroidery styles become hollowed out and simplified, eventually altering public perception of what these crafts are and reducing them to 'exotic designs' or passing fads. Cultural Distortion and Misrepresentation Cultural crafts are expressions of history, faith, identity, and regional pride. When brands strip these designs from their context and repackage them for commercial consumption, it leads to distorted cultural narratives. The symbolic meanings—whether religious, social, or spiritual—are lost or, worse, misrepresented. Over time, this distortion can weaken cultural memory. Younger generations may begin to associate their heritage crafts with foreign brands rather than their own culture, leading to disengagement, loss of transmission, and eventual decline in the craft itself. Widening the Global Inequality Gap At a systemic level, this practice deepens global inequalities. The fashion industry already suffers from an imbalance where design credit, visibility, and capital are concentrated in the West, while labor and creativity in the Global South are undervalued. When cultural crafts are extracted and commodified without a fair value exchange, it widens the gap between those who create and those who profit. Even when artisans are aware their work has been 'inspired,' they often lack the legal means or international platforms to demand justice or intellectual property rights. This dynamic mirrors the colonial extraction of resources, now in the form of intangible heritage. The Ethics of Fashion in a Globalized World Fashion does not exist in a vacuum—it is a product of people, places, and politics. In a world where global exchange is inevitable and often beautiful, it becomes even more critical to ensure that cultural inspiration does not become cultural exploitation. Design thrives on exploration, but with exploration must come accountability. When designers tap into indigenous or regional crafts, they bear the responsibility to ask: Who created this? What does it mean? Who benefits from this design? True ethical design goes beyond surface-level homage. It involves: Collaborative development with craft communities Fair compensation and royalties Storytelling that honors origins, not erases them Education for consumers and creative professionals about heritage and its significance Far from limiting creativity, such an approach adds richness, authenticity, and integrity to design. In fact, brands that choose ethical practices stand to gain consumer trust, cultural respect, and long-term sustainability in an increasingly conscious marketplace. Today's consumers are no longer satisfied with 'inspired by' as an excuse. They demand to know the how, the why, and most importantly, the who behind what they wear. The fashion industry must evolve to meet that demand—not with appropriation, but with appreciation backed by action. What the Fashion Industry Must Do Practice Transparent Attribution If a product is inspired by a regional craft or community, say it openly. A simple acknowledgment goes a long way in preserving cultural identity. Collaborate With Craftspeople Instead of imitating, work alongside traditional artisans. Co-design initiatives and partnerships can uplift communities, offer fair wages, and create sustainable ecosystems. Educate Designers and Consumers Institutes, brands, and media must educate new designers and buyers about the cultural significance of regional crafts. This builds respect, curiosity, and informed appreciation. Protect and Promote Indigenous Knowledge Support for GI tags, local artisan cooperatives, and funding for craft documentation projects is vital in preserving these heritages for future generations. Conclusion: Fashion Must Tell the Whole Story From the sunbaked lanes of Kolhapur to the catwalks of Milan, the journey of a craft should not be one of silence and invisibility. When fashion borrows, it must also acknowledge, compensate, and protect. Because behind every braided sandal, resist-dyed textile, or hand-stitched motif, there is a human story—of knowledge, struggle, pride, and identity. Let fashion not be just about what we wear, but also about who we honor when we wear it.
Hindustan Times
24-06-2025
- Lifestyle
- Hindustan Times
Ikat to Kalamkari: 7 Indian textiles to add a touch of tradition to your modern homes
Textiles shape a home's personality like nothing else can. The Indian textile industry brims with treasures that turn bare rooms into soulful spaces layered with craft, history and warmth. From airy cotton drapes to rich silk brocades, Indian handloom textiles slip easily into modern homes, bringing with them stories of weavers, dyes, and motifs passed down through generations. A cosy living room layered with Indian textiles like Kalamkari, Ikat and Ajrakh, blending heritage craft and modern comfort for a space rich in texture and stories.(AI generated) Think of these textiles not just as fabric but as design allies, but smart picks that lift a room with colour, texture and quiet luxury. 7 Indian textiles that will help you change your house into an artistic home Kalamkari Rooted in Andhra Pradesh, Kalamkari is an art on cloth. Each piece carries hand-painted or block-printed motifs inspired by nature and myth. Use Kalamkari as framed panels behind a bed or console table. Cushion covers in muted Kalamkari patterns balance a neutral sofa without fighting for attention. Table runners add an instant dash of craft to dining spaces. Cotton Kalamkari breathes well, making it perfect for warm climates and easy to care for. Ikat Ikat's blurred edges and geometric patterns create energy in a room without feeling busy. Found in Odisha, Telangana and Gujarat, this textile works beautifully as curtains that filter light while adding subtle drama. Bench upholstery in bold Ikat turns a forgotten corner into a highlight. Small hits like lamp shades or placemats keep the look playful without crowding a space. Ikat's tight weave makes it durable for everyday use. Kantha Kantha from Bengal takes discarded cloth and stitches it into something new and charming. Lightweight quilts double up as throws over reading chairs or at the foot of a bed. For a twist, frame sections of vintage Kantha and hang them in sets for a gallery wall that feels handmade yet modern. Cushion covers in Kantha add a pattern without overwhelming a calm corner. The cotton keeps rooms cool and airy. Banarasi Brocade Nothing says rich heritage like Banarasi Brocade from Varanasi. This silk fabric, woven with metallic threads, brings regal flair in small doses. Use Brocade for throw pillows on a solid-coloured sofa to create an instant focal point. A narrow runner made from Brocade can turn a plain coffee table into a festive centrepiece. For a bold move, cover the back panel of an armchair in Brocade and pair it with muted upholstery elsewhere. Ajrakh Ajrakh from Gujarat is all about deep indigo and detailed block prints. Panels of Ajrakh stretched on wooden frames become art that holds its own in contemporary rooms. Cushion covers or floor cushions made with Ajrakh tie together earthy palettes. Curtains in Ajrakh filter harsh light and cast soft, patterned shadows that change through the day. Always pick pieces dyed naturally for the authentic depth of colour. Khadi Khadi is an honest, fuss-free fabric at its best. Spun and woven by hand, it breathes beautifully and softens over time. Khadi curtains work wonders in rooms that catch harsh sunlight, mellowing brightness while keeping interiors breezy. Bedsheets and duvet covers in Khadi feel crisp yet inviting. Table linen in soft Khadi checks or stripes pairs well with rustic crockery. Always source from trusted weavers to get the real handloom texture. Bagh Print Bagh print from Madhya Pradesh wears its bold motifs with pride. The red and black palette feels dramatic yet balanced. Bagh print cushion covers can break the monotony of a neutral living room. Try using Bagh yardage as a wall hanging above a console or as a bold table runner under muted ceramics. This cotton textile holds dye well, staying vivid wash after wash. Authentic Bagh is still river-washed and dyed with natural colours, worth seeking out for its depth and character. The Indian textile industry is far more than fabric on a shelf. It is a direct link to craftspeople whose skill turns simple threads into art that breathes life into a home. Thoughtful textile decor ideas add warmth and a quiet conscience to any room. Look for authentic Indian handloom textiles from trusted artisans and fair collectives. Every piece you bring in celebrates real craft and keeps our weaving traditions alive, turning walls and furniture into stories worth sharing. Similar articles for you 10 popular Indian art forms you can use in your home decor Why vintage decor is making a comeback: Textile museum designer Ravisha Merchant weighs in Best mattresses for a peaceful and comfortable sleep; Here are our top 8 picks for you Mattress matters: Find your dreamy match made in heaven; Nap like a champ! The author of this article holds a Master's Degree in Interior Design and has spent over a decade in research, teaching, and designing homes from scratch. Disclaimer: At Hindustan Times, we help you stay up-to-date with the latest trends and products. Hindustan Times has an affiliate partnership, so we may get a part of the revenue when you make a purchase. We shall not be liable for any claim under applicable laws, including but not limited to the Consumer Protection Act, 2019, concerning the products. The products listed in this article are in no particular order of priority.
