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The Print
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- The Print
Prada's Milan misstep can bring Kolhapuris back on their feet. Chappal Gali has new hope
'In the early 2000s, from 7 am to 5 pm, hammers would ring nonstop in Subhash Nagar. Now it's fallen quiet. Only the elderly are left,' said Shubham Satpute, a fourth-generation artisan and trader who owns the workshop, Inga Leathers, where Ramesh is crafting the chappal. 'This is a big moment for us.' A sandal shown by Prada at Milan Fashion Week looked almost exactly like the ones made in this lane, also known as Chappal Gali. The controversy that followed is the most attention the town's artisans have seen in years. Anger has turned into hope. Kolhapur: In a small veranda workshop in Kolhapur's Subhash Nagar, 60-year-old Ramesh thins the edges of a camel-brown leather cut-out, the base of a Kolhapuri chappal. He's done this work for 45 years, through falling orders and fading interest. But now, for the first time in a while, a sense of possibility mingles with the smell of leather in the air. For these artisans, most of whom are Dalits, it's not just a shot at better pay or recognition, but at getting society to acknowledge the dignity of their labour, Satpute added. The Kolhapuri sandal craft is a fading cottage industry, struggling to survive amid stagnant demand, poor pay, and an identity crisis. Fewer young people are taking it up, pushing the craft to the edge of extinction. But the recent controversy around Prada's Kolhapuri-inspired footwear, launched as part of its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection in Milan, has changed things. The brand didn't credit the design's roots, but the resemblance was hard to miss. There was outrage on social media. Celebrities like Kareena Kapoor and Neena Gupta weighed in. It became one of the more striking cases of cultural appropriation in recent memory. The Kolhapuri sandal, which got its GI tag in 2019, joined the long list of Indian styles 'rebranded' for Western runways —bindis, dupattas turned Scandi scarves, kamarbands turned cummerbunds, jholas and mandi bags sold as designer totes. Prada finally acknowledged the artisans. And Kolhapur was back in the spotlight. Almost overnight, Kolhapuri sandals went from being a common man's item to a symbol of luxury, just because Prada's name got associated with it. It gave them a new level of respect in the eyes of the public -Lalit Gandhi, president of Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) The backlash forced Prada's technical team to visit Kolhapur, meet with artisans, and suggest a potential collaboration. Plans for training centres and global exposure are in discussion. For artisans long overlooked, it's a glimpse into a future they'd never imagined before. 'This could bring global recognition to both Kolhapur and the Kolhapuri chappal,' said Satpute, who is striving to preserve the legacy his great-grandfather began in 1902. 'It could also bring back the younger generation that once abandoned the craft in pursuit of 'respectable' corporate careers, because now, saying you make sandals for an international luxury brand like Prada will earn instant social validation.' Also Read: Manish Malhotra looks back at DDLJ 30 years later. 'Designing for Simran wasn't about fashion' More than a buzz During Prada's visit, artisans at Inga Leathers gifted the team a pair of Mauje Puda Kapshi Kolhapuri chappals, an open-toed, T-strap design with distinctive puda-style braiding. This design, passed down through many generations, was the reference for Prada's controversial sandals, Satpute said. 'It's the same ancient design they used. That's why it sparked such a reaction,' he added. To set the record straight, he even made an Instagram video explaining the heritage of the design. It amassed over five lakh views. Other videos from his account also took off. One Reel, showing the Prada team's visit to his shop, got 1.6 million views. Over the past few weeks, his follower count jumped from 4,000 to over 10,000. At the same time, sales also shot up. 'I have run out of stock, thanks to all the social media buzz,' he said. But artisans and shopkeepers want more than a temporary spotlight. They're on tenterhooks, waiting to see if the Prada collaboration actually pans out. You could see the surprise in [the Prada team's] eyes as we explained the step-by-step procedure. They asked many technical questions, like how the thin braids are made -Shubham Satpute, owner of Inga Leathers Prasad Shate, who runs a Kolhapuri sandal shop in Shivaji Chowk, said it isn't just about profit margins. A partnership with Prada could open doors to a better quality of life for artisans and improve the chances of the next generation taking it up. They're also looking to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA). 'We've asked MACCIA to set up a training centre in Subhash Nagar where young people can learn the craft in a modern, structured way,' Shate said. MACCIA president Lalit Gandhi said he discussed this idea with Prada and has suggested that the brand open an 'Excellence Lab' in Kolhapur to train artisans in traditional methods and global quality standards. While Satpute agrees that the Prada name could attract young people back to the trade and bring them clout in their social circles, he also has a healthy distrust of machines and mass manufacturing. For him, the heart of Kolhapuri craftsmanship lies in the touch of human hands. Many of these sandals are crafted by husband-and-wife teams, he said. While the husband takes on the physically demanding tasks, the wife handles the intricate detailing. This collaboration, according to him, can't be replicated by machines. 'Too many hands on one pair of sandals will spoil it. Similarly, if machines take over, the essence is lost,' Satpute said. For brands like Prada, uniqueness is a selling point, but for Kolhapur artisans, it's just a natural default. 'No two handmade Kolhapuri sandals are ever exactly the same. It's unintentionally customised,' he smiled. Everyday sandal to luxury fashion The Kolhapuri sandal industry has grown by Rs 4,000 crore over the past five years, with an estimated market value of around Rs 15,000 crore, said MACCIA president Lalit Gandhi. But that figure, he cautioned, doesn't reflect a boom in demand. 'The market value has risen not because more sandals are being sold, but due to reduced production and inflation driving up prices,' he said. Kolhapur, which houses one of the 51 Shakti Peeths, sees a regular stream of pilgrims and visitors from nearby districts. Many pick up Kolhapuri chappals from local markets. But according to shopkeepers, the sandals don't have the same must-have status as some other regional crafts. 'The way people travel to Banaras specifically for the sarees, that doesn't quite happen with Kolhapuri chappals,' said Shate. Exports are also modest. Traders say low production capacity and lack of organised support have kept the craft confined mostly to regional markets. Many buyers also opt for cheaper machine-made versions. In terms of their market positioning, Kolhapuris are going through a spell of identity confusion. Traditionally a commodity meant for the daily use of common people, they're now priced out of the budget of such consumers. A Kapshi sandal for men that sold for Rs 1,500–2,000 in 2015 now retails for upwards of Rs 2,400. At the same time, those who can afford them don't particularly covet them. That's the perception that now has a chance of shifting. 'Almost overnight, Kolhapuri sandals went from being a common man's item to a symbol of luxury, just because Prada's name got associated with it,' Gandhi said. 'It gave them a new level of respect in the eyes of the public.' Gandhi first saw Prada's Kolhapuri-inspired sandal on 24 June, when his nephew showed him Instagram Reels from the Milan show. While he was still processing it, a group of artisans and shopkeepers reached out to him, angry that their craft had been copied without any credit. They asked Gandhi to act. He wrote to Prada the next day. In his email dated 25 June 2025, Gandhi urged the brand to publicly acknowledge the design's origin and consider revenue-sharing with Kolhapuri artisans, especially since they priced the footwear at the equivalent of Rs 1,16,000. The way people travel to Banaras specifically for the sarees, that doesn't quite happen with Kolhapuri chappals -Prasad Shate, trader He said that Prada confirmed in their reply that the design was indeed based on the Kolhapuri sandal. However, the company told him they would acknowledge this only at the time of the commercial launch, the date of which is yet to be announced. 'Later during a Zoom call, on 11 July, we also asked them to source directly from Kolhapuri artisans and even promised to meet their quality standards,' Gandhi said. Four days later, Prada's technical team arrived in Kolhapur. At first, the visitors seemed to think the sandals were machine-made, Satpute said, but when they walked through the workshops and saw each step carried out by hand, they were visibly surprised. 'You could see the surprise in their eyes as we explained the step-by-step procedure,' said Satpute. The team did not say much but were curious about the techniques and peppered the artisans with queries. 'They asked many technical questions about the procedure, like how the thin braids are made,' Satpute recalled. Subsequently, Prada acknowledged the artisans more explicitly in a letter to MACCIA: 'We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognize the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship.' Also Read: What Prada did in Kolhapur—bought 7 pairs of Kolhapuris, spent 2 days at factory units Art of making a Kolhapuri The craft of Kolhapuri sandals relies on two marginalised communities. It starts with the Dhor community, based about 30 km away in Ichalkaranji, which handles the tanning of raw hides. Each region has its own tanning style, and Kolhapur is known for the traditional bag-tan method, which uses vegetable dye and takes around 15 to 22 days. 'It's similar to how we prepare pickles using salt, spices, and oil,' explained Satpute. 'We use natural ingredients like babbool bark and hirada (myrobalan fruits) to preserve the animal hide.' Although buffalo skin is naturally dark, Kolhapuri chappals have a signature light-brown colour. That, Satpute said, comes from the natural tanning agents. If the leather is any other shade, it likely means chemical-based treatments were used. Once the leather is ready, the Dhor community sells it to local artisans, mostly from the Chambhar community, who then craft it into Kolhapuri sandals, usually in the small houses lining the narrow and unpaved Chappal Gali. In one such house, a middle-aged woman, Bharthi, sits cross-legged on the floor in a green floral saree, carefully braiding strips of tanned sheep leather. Women in the community are responsible for the intricate work—braiding, stamping, and attaching the T-strap to the toe ring. 'I learned it from my father, and later my husband taught me the finer sheep braiding used in the strap of Kapshi,' said 53-year-old Bharthi, with a bunch of sandal bases kept to one side. On a good day, she earns between Rs 500 and Rs 1,000. But during the monsoon, business slows down. Many of these shops are now run by second-, third-, even fourth-generation owners. For them, the shop is more than just a place of business—it's sacred. Customers are expected to remove their shoes before entering. Inside, the air carries the rich scent of rose and sandalwood. Prasad Shate, who runs his father's 70-year-old business, said that while there are many variations of Kolhapuris, the four main styles are: Kapshi, Khaas Kolhapuri, Kurundwadi, and Buiwadi. Each of these has multiple subtypes. The differences lie in the 'kaan' (ear-like side flap), the braiding, the leaf, T-strap, stitching, colour, and embellishments. The type of leather varies as well and is a factor in the price, according to Shate. Buffalo hide is the cheapest; ox hide is the most expensive. Cowhide used to be the priciest, but with the closure of slaughterhouses, it's no longer available. Over the years, artisans have also adapted to changing markets by using rubber soles. At Shate's shop, a pair made with animal hide and a rubber sole sells for Rs 600-700, while a fully traditional pair crafted entirely from leather using age-old techniques starts at Rs 1,800. 'The price goes up to Rs 30,000-35,000, depending on which animal hide is used,' Shate said. Twenty years ago, Kolhapur had over 10,000 artisans, according to the Kolhapur Chappal Association. Today, only 2,000 to 3,000 still practise the craft. Satpute's workshop now hums with the steady rhythm of 12-13 seasoned artisans, all in their 40s and older. But what he hopes for is a space where wrinkled, time-tested hands work side by side with young, eager ones. 'That's the only way this 800-year-old craft will survive,' he said. (Edited by Asavari Singh)
Time of India
16-07-2025
- Business
- Time of India
Could explore agreements to enhance production quality, elevate Kolhapuri chappals to international stage: Prada team tells Kolhapur collector
Kolhapur: A team of technical experts from Italian fashion brand Prada visited Chappal Line, renowned for its Kolhapuri chappal shops, on their second day in Kolhapur on Wednesday. Tired of too many ads? go ad free now Prada's technical team also met with Kolhapur district collector Amol Yedge. According to details released by the district administration, the delegation expressed that the company might explore agreements at various levels to enhance production quality and elevate footwear to the international stage in the future. "Any collaborations or steps forward would be communicated to the district administration and relevant industry and producer associations after decisions at the company's board meeting," the team told Yedge, as stated in the statement. During the meeting, Yedge provided comprehensive information on ongoing projects related to Kolhapuri chappals. He emphasised that Kolhapuri chappals are not only traditional Indian footwear with deep historical ties to Kolhapur, but also symbolise local artisans' skill and form part of the region's cultural heritage. He shared details about other traditional Kolhapuri items such as Kolhapuri saaj and Thushi jewellery. "This visit marks a significant step after recent controversy over cultural appropriation, with Prada now acknowledging the origins of the Kolhapuri chappal and exploring possibilities for ethical collaborations with local artisans," read the statement. Earlier, the experts interacted with shop operators and customers, assessing the quality of the footwear. The team was led by Paolo Tiveron, director of the men's technical and production department (footwear division). Tired of too many ads? go ad free now The team included Daniele Contu, pattern-making manager of the division, and two external consultants, Andrea Pollastrelli and Roberto Pollastrelli. Lalit Gandhi, president of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture, said: "We are hopeful that during the next visit, slated in Aug, deals will be made. We found that Prada wants to check whether the artisans can make the chappals of the quality and standard they desire. Not just Prada, other companies may also look for collaboration with the Kolhapuri chappal artisans."
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Business Standard
16-07-2025
- Business
- Business Standard
Prada executives visit Kolhapur to understand Kolhapuri chappal making
Luxury brand Prada's footwear team visits Maharashtra clusters amid backlash over Kolhapuri-inspired designs in Milan show; MACCIA explores potential collaboration Sharleen Dsouza Mumbai Italian luxury brand Prada's team of four executives from Italy visited Kolhapur in Maharashtra over Tuesday and Wednesday to understand the art of making the Kolhapuri chappal. The team included Paolo Tiveron, director of men's technical and production department – footwear division; Daniele Contu, pattern-making manager – footwear division; Andrea Pollastrelli, external consultant; and Roberto Pollastrelli, external consultant. They were part of the four-member team that visited Kolhapur for the two-day trip. Prior to the visit, Prada's team held an online meeting on July 11 with executives from the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA). The team visited four production clusters in and around Kolhapur where Kolhapuri chappals are traditionally made. These include Subhash Nagar, Jawahar Nagar, Kandalgaon, and Kagal village—home to a cluster of women artisans. This visit comes in the wake of controversy over Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, which featured footwear strikingly similar to Kolhapuri chappals during Milan Fashion Week last month. The sandals, which closely resemble the traditional Kolhapuri chappal, are priced at around Rs 100,000. The fashion house faced backlash for failing to credit India as the inspiration behind the design. 'The team from Prada has been in India over the last two days to evaluate our production facilities where Kolhapuri chappals are made. While the standards at which Prada manufactures its footwear are very different from ours, they will return to Italy and submit a report on the visit,' said Lalit Gandhi, president of MACCIA, speaking to Business Standard. Gandhi added that, if all goes well, the Prada business team will visit Mumbai in August to decide how to take the proposal forward. In June, MACCIA wrote to Prada regarding the use of Kolhapuri chappals in its fashion show. In its response, Prada stated: 'We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship.' The letter further noted: 'We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities—as we have done in past collections—to ensure rightful recognition of their craft.' In a related development, the Bombay High Court on Wednesday dismissed a public interest litigation (PIL) filed against Prada for its alleged use of the Kolhapuri chappal design. The plea claimed that Kolhapuri chappals are protected under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act.
Time of India
06-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Kareena Kapoor Khan takes a jibe at Prada as she flaunts her 'kolhapuri' chappals, proves she's a truly desi at heart
Kareena Kapoor Khan is loved for her candidness and saying things quite honestly with a pinch of salt and humour. Bebo who always gets loved for showing this side, be it in her interviews or social media stole the show yet again. Her take on the ongoing Prada-kolhapuri controversy is a lot of fun and filled with wit. For those not in the know, the controversy began when Italian fashion house Prada introduced its own version of the iconic Indian footwear during the brand's Men's Spring/Summer 2025 collection. The runway debut sparked backlash, with many accusing the label of cultural appropriation and overlooking the heritage and skilled artisans involved in making Kolhapuri chappals. Kareena playfully took to her Instagram stories and shared a candid vacation snap showing her feet stretched out on a sun lounger, clad in a metallic silver pair of Kolhapuri chappals. She wrote, "Sorry not Prada… (laughing and punching emoji) but my OG kolapuri (heart emoji)'. Just as the controversy sparked, this luxury brand clarified that its design was 'inspired' by the traditional footwear and expressed a willingness to engage with the community. A virtual meeting is now scheduled for July 11 between Prada, representatives from the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), and artisans. The discussion will reportedly explore potential collaborations and global avenues for the Kolhapuri craft. As for Kareena, she's currently vacationing in London with her husband Saif Ali Khan and their sons Taimur and Jeh. A recent video circulating online shows the family enjoying the city's streets and food scene—proving once again that Kareena knows how to blend style, sass, and substance wherever she goes.
The Hindu
03-07-2025
- General
- The Hindu
Ground beneath their feet
For Shantaram Narayan Sonavane, 50, from the Dhor community, the day begins early. By 7.30 a.m., he is at his tannery in Dhor gali (lane) in Ichalkaranji city, around 30 kilometres from Kolhapur in Maharashtra. It is at this time that he receives the animal hide from a government-approved slaughterhouse. The buffalo hide is steeped in a limestone slurry, called chunadi, for 10 days. Every day, he takes the hide out from the tank, works on it, and puts it back in the slurry. He can identify the freshest leather of just-culled cattle, distinguishing it from older, salt-dipped hide that loses its strength. 'The fresher the hide, the better the chappal,' he says. Shantaram is a hide supplier to the Kolhapuri chappal artisans. On the 11th day, the loosened hair on the hide is removed with a 'ship', an instrument shaped like a boat, and put into teakwood drums. The drums contain a liquid with hirada (myrobalan fruits) and babul tree bark. Both tanners and artisans believe these natural ingredients have properties to both preserve the leather and offer wearers of finished chappals health benefits. After three days of being transferred into different teakwood drums, the leather is brought out, stitched into a round bag and hung. It is filled with the hirada-babul liquid again for eight days. 'This helps give it a good colour, fill up the pores, and make it immune to fungus. This has to be done in a teakwood drum only. There should be no iron, no cement anywhere close to the tannery. The leather does not take kindly to those, and immediately loses its quality,' he says. This process, using only vegetable dye, called bag-tan, is exclusive to this region, and is key to the making of the Kolhapuri chappal. The end result is always a camel-coloured leather. Anything else would mean that the leather has been exposed to lab-made chemicals. On June 23, at the Spring-Summer 2026 Men's Fashion Week in Milan, the 112-year-old Italian luxury brand Prada presented what it referred to in its catalogue as 'leather sandals'. They looked like Kohlapuri chappals in design and material. Social media, alive to cultural appropriation, especially by erstwhile colonial powers, called out the exclusion of any cultural citation. In the days after, Prada, itself a heritage label, acknowledged the traditions and practices that go into the making of the chappal, expressing its willingness to work with the artisans and craftspeople, in an e-mail to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA). The Kohlapuri chappal has had a geographical indication (GI) tag since 2018, for the product made in eight districts, four each in Maharashtra and Karnataka. For a chappal to be called a Kolhapuri, it must be made in these districts, be wholly nature-derived, vegetable-dyed, and hand-stitched with leather thread. Nylon thread or nails mean it is not a Kohlapuri chappal. Artisans lament that Kolhapuri chappals are losing their market, with people's lack of knowledge on what the original product is. 'This started happening 60-70 years ago, when the demand for Kolhapuri chappals went up, but the production was steady. That is when traders from other States started copying the design and selling it as Kolhapuris,' says Shivajirao Powar, president of Kolhapur District Footwear Association. The decline of demand and knowledge Traditionally-made chappals require care, with oil rubbed on them to preserve their sheen and prolong their life. Many do not want to invest that kind of time anymore. In addition, designers across India did their own spin on the chappal, mimicking the original, but adding colour, embellishment, and sometimes a heel. The leather processing for a Kolhapuri chappal takes 21 days. Shantaram explains that each part of the Kolhapuri chappal is made with this leather, but from different parts of the animal: the soles from the buttocks, the braids on the T-upper from the tail or legs, or from sheep skin. His family has been doing this for generations, but he laments that Dhol gali, which used to have tanneries within each home, has only two units now. His son, an engineer, is preparing to write an entrance exam for a government job, and is not interested in carrying on the family business. 'What's the point? There is no dignity of labour. It is a lot of hard work. You need strength to lift and hang the heavy leather pieces, process them. The body smells because of the work. The money is not great. Most importantly, there is a shortage of the babul tree bark, which is the most important component in vegetable tanning,' says Akshay Shantaram Sonavane, 26, Shantaram's son. His mother, aunt, and uncle have all been a part of the family business, handling the equipment, processing the hide. None of his generation wants to be a part of it. They prefer desk jobs. The sub-text is that tanners are Dalits, often looked down upon in Hinduism's religious and social heirarchy. 'This is a work of art and skill,' Shantaram says, adding that the Maharashtra government sometimes calls him to understand the original process of vegetable tanning. 'But the sad part is, our role is never acknowledged. We don't get land for setting up our tanneries. We don't get bank loans or government funds,' he says. In a month, Shantaram, his wife Rajashree, brother Tukaram and his wife Madhavi, process 300 kg of animal hide. Each kilogram earns them ₹240, he says. 'Alcoholism is very common in our community. After the stench of the hide and the hard work of lifting these bags, people drink to ease the pain and the smell,' says Akshay. His family though, has been able to save up and build a four-storey house. Vegetable tanning has become expensive and rarer now, making artisans turn to tanning with lab-made chemicals. Besides the shortage of over 20-year-old babul trees and skilled leather processors, people from the community now turning adults don't want to be ostracised: black nails are characteristic of dyers. The residue of the plants used in vegetable dying used to be burnt along with cow dung as fuel — this market has disappeared with gas fires taking over. When chemicals are used in the hide, the properties of the chappal change immediately; they wear out faster, say artisans. 'Till 10 years ago, there were 50 vegetable tanning units in Kolhapur; 10 in Ichalkaranji. Now, there are no units in Kolhapur; Ichalkaranji is left with two. Earlier, Nipani had 70 units; it now has only 10. There is no help from the government,' says Tukaram. Many artisans travel great distances to get the hide to make Kolhapuri chappals the original way. One of them is Ashok Laxman Mane, 52, from Shirol. The artisan, who works from his village, is from the Chambhar community, a Scheduled Caste, in a system that believes he is almost at the lowest social level. He has loyal customers, who reach out to him directly to place their orders. His YouTube videos are his marketing outreach. 'I don't supply to middlemen or to shops,' he says. Most artisans don't have Mane's social-media skills, and are forced to make chappals as per designer specifications, adding a creative-industry hierarchy, one more layer of discrimination that a Kolhapuri chappal artisan faces in life. Gender blender Sagar Sanjay Jadhav, 36, from Peth Wadgaon in Hatkanangle taluk in Kolhapur, has been making chappals for five generations. 'We buy the leather based on weight from the Dhors. We then dip it in water and clean it with a brush. There are several types of Kolhapuri chappals: Kapshi, Kurundwadi, Mauje Kapshi, Maharaja. We have separate stencils ready for each design. Once the leather is washed, we cut it as per the stencil. Then we soak it in water again,' he says. Thereafter, the leather is beaten (ghatne in Marathi) and smoothened (khurapni). It is beaten again to toughen it. The stencil is used again and different parts of the chappals moulded. The upper and lower parts of the sole are cut separately. After elaborate work on them, they are stuck together with the help of local soil near the riverbed. These processes are performed by men. The upper and lower soles are then stitched by leather thread by the women. The men craft a design with iron instruments and hammer the chappal yet again. Specialised iron tools are used for this. 'Women do 80% of the work; men do 20%,' says Powar. The prices of chappals are decided on the basis of the design. The more intricate the hand work, the more expensive the chappal. Bharti Sunil Gadekar, 49, from Kolhapur, has made the detha veni (braid for the chappals), stitching it to the soles for the last 20 years. This has meant a constant pain in her neck, back, fingers, hands, and legs, as she sits hunched over her work all day. 'I hail from Mangur in Karnataka. My father used to make leather chappals, but I never made anything till I got married. Here, my mother-in-law and my sister-in-law used to make chappals. I learnt from them,' she says, adding that she lost her husband at a very young age. 'I began to do this to run the household,' she says, noting that both her sons, who are in class 11 do not want to learn the art. She stitches five or six pairs of chappals daily, and makes ₹25 per pair. Prada's pair was slated to cost over ₹1 lakh. She is one of the few in Kolhapur's Subhash Nagar, who works on the chappal. 'If you walked around some decades ago, you would hear the constant sound of the iron instruments as chappals being made. Now, the whole area has grown silent,' says Shubham Satpute, 28, of Inga Leather, a boutique that sells different designs, ranging from ₹1,599 to ₹6,599. Now and beyond 'These days, the leather comes from Chennai, as slaughterhouses and tanneries have been shut down here. That leather is chemically tanned. The people who used to earlier run tanneries, have now become distributors,' Powar says. Artisans too use machines to cut the leather and glue to stick the layers of the soles, says Satpute, who runs a leather studio and was recently a part of a programme held to honour the Vishwakarma community, traditionally artisans of different types. Flaunting his photograph with Prime Minister Narendra Modi, he says the art needs a lot more to flourish. He runs a boutique to sell 'authentic Kolhapuri chappals' of different types, and understands that e-commerce helps take a business from local to global. After the Prada controversy, his reels on Instagram explaining the nuances of Kolhapuri chappals went viral, garnering lakhs of views and new followers for his studio's Instagram page. The publicity is not enough for him to sustain his business, he says. 'There should be some international collaboration, so the artisans benefit. At present, only the middlemen and shopowners make money from margins and commissions. The artisans are still exploited and underpaid,' he says. Lalit Gandhi, president of MACCIA, calls for the Kolhapuri chappal to be patented. 'A patent will help the artisans, who have been the most exploited in the chain. There is not even a cluster for the Kolhapuri chappals in Kolhapur at present,' he says, adding that the Chamber has begun the process. He hopes the artisans will come together to form a collective. With Prada showing an interest in engaging with the artisans, most in Kolhapur feel this will be an example for ethical fashion practices. 'Prada has offered to hold a meeting with the local artisans and with our industry representatives. We have suggested a joint task force which could focus on developing co-branded limited-edition collections rooted in traditional Kolhapuri designs,' he adds. Maharashtra Social Justice Minister Sanjay Shirsat says that he has called for a meeting next week 'to take measures to address the issue'. Edited by Sunalini Mathew
