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Morocco World
29-06-2025
- Business
- Morocco World
The Price of Tradition: Spanish Tapas and Morocco's Culinary Crossroads
Picture yourself in Madrid's bustling streets, with the ambient sound of chatter, the lingering scent of olive oil, the clinking of sangria glasses on sunlit terraces—at the heart of all this is the humble tapa. This iconic symbol of Spanish cuisine ranges from simple olives to extravagant seafood dishes, reflecting the daily pleasures of Spanish life. Yet, even in today's globalized economy, this tradition is being reshaped by tourism, supply chain disruptions, and shifting consumer trends. Globalisation has brought both opportunities and challenges to local economies worldwide, and tapas are no exception. The influx of tourists eager for an 'authentic' Spanish experience has increased demand for these famous dishes, particularly in major cities. Prices for key ingredients have risen sharply—food prices in Spain have increased by around 29.7% in the past three years—placing pressure on both restaurants and consumers. But, the culinary story doesn't stop in Spain. Just across the Strait of Gibraltar, Morocco finds itself navigating a similar situation. The two countries share centuries of culture and culinary exchange, rooted in history, trade, and geography. As tapas become increasingly globalised, their influence—and the economic forces surrounding them—spread outward, affecting Moroccan gastronomy in unexpected ways. Tapas across the Strait Historically, Andalusia represented a gastronomic bridge between Spanish and Moroccan culture. Dishes featuring preserved lemons, cumin, chickpeas, and slow-cooked meats crossed the Mediterranean, transferring key culinary traditions from North Africa to Spain. Today, Moroccan tourists visiting Spain frequently look for tapas bars, not only for the local immersion, but for the cultural familiarity they share with this small-plate dining tradition. Similarly, Moroccan cafés in cities like Casablanca and Tangier offer more and more Spanish-influenced dishes, appealing to locals and European visitors alike. This culinary exchange symbolises a wider interdependence embedded into Mediterranean traditions—a relationship amplified by globalisation. While Spanish tapas are commercialized abroad, their cultural identity often blends with other regional influences. In Morocco, that influence is not just aesthetic: it belongs to a larger economic dialogue between the weight of heritage and the pull of modernisation. Tourism and seasonality Spain's booming tourism sector has further influenced tapas pricing. Last year, in June alone, tourists spent €12.3 billion in Spain, driving the economy of local food businesses. However, the seasonal nature of tourism causes price volatility. During peak summer months, tapas prices can skyrocket, only to fall in the off-season. In addition, according to the Instituto Nacional de Estadística, the overall prices of food in Spain have increased by 2.2% in May compared to the same month last year. Rising food prices and seasonal volatility, driven by the growing demand for authentic cuisine, have made it increasingly difficult for consumers and restaurant owners to navigate the fluctuations of tourist spending. A similar trend is taking place in Morocco, particularly in popular tourist cities like Marrakech and Fez, where Moroccan mezze—small plates similar to tapas—have become a highlight of the tourist dining experience. Restaurants are adjusting their pricing and ingredients to cater to tourists' preferences, alongside the development of ecotourism—often at the cost of traditional authenticity. In both countries, the balance between preserving local identity and meeting tourist demand remains delicate. Supply chains and shared struggles Morocco has seen increased pressure on agriculture in recent years: a prolonged drought in 2023, with rainfall nearly 70% below average, decreased olive-oil output and triggered emergency water conservation measures, pushing prices upward. This marked the third consecutive year of declining olive-oil production as persistent high temperatures and lack of rainfall devastated crops across key agricultural regions. Meanwhile, Moroccan fishermen, particularly in the north, are seeing export markets decline with reduced yields and the EU's annulment of the fisheries deal. Across the Strait, rising food costs in Spain are driven by global supply chain disruptions—a legacy of the pandemic, geopolitical tensions, and climate change. Tapas bars have had to innovate to survive. For instance, olive oil prices doubled in 2023 alone, driven by drought and poor harvests in Jaén, Andalusia's primary olive-producing region. Seafood costs have also surged as fishing industries adapt to shortages and rising fuel costs. These shared struggles highlight how two neighboring economies, strongly connected to food and agriculture, are adapting in parallel ways to global pressures. For both countries, small-plate traditions like tapas or Moroccan mezze carry a lot of cultural weight: they are simple in scale yet rich in heritage. Authenticity or commodification? In Morocco, concerns are growing over how traditional Moroccan cuisine is being reshaped for global consumption. Tagines, couscous, and pastilla are increasingly presented in stylised, social media-friendly formats for Western tourists—potentially risking a loss of authenticity in the name of commercial appeal. Spain is confronted with a similar dilemma and has seen tapas become a global phenomenon. Tapas has started to become trendy on social media, creating a worldwide interest in Spanish-themed restaurants around the world. Although the draw is positive, the downside is that these trendy recipes often prioritize international tastes rather than preserving traditional flavors. The commodification of national cuisines presents both opportunities and challenges. On one hand, it promotes culinary heritage to wider audiences; on the other, it risks removing the cultural context in which these dishes were created. For chefs in both Spain and Morocco, the question remains: Can we preserve authenticity while staying relevant in a globalised market? Shared opportunities: A culinary future Despite this, globalization holds a power of great innovation and cultural connection. With cross-Mediterranean exchange, fusion restaurants, and festivals, culinary diplomacy enables both countries to share their diverse cultural heritage to the global stage. Spain and Morocco have cooperated on several cultural and gastronomic initiatives, including the Mediterranean Diet Foundation, which promotes sustainable agriculture and cuisine in both nations. In Morocco, the young and middle class demographics are contributing to the surge of interest in culinary innovation. In cities like Rabat and Casablanca, emerging food businesses are giving tapas and mezze a Moroccan twist, blending locally sourced ingredients with modern dining trends. Spanish chefs visiting Morocco for culinary tourism are likewise exploring Amazigh and Arab-Andalusian roots of Mediterranean cuisine. Culinary heritage in a changing world Whether in the tapas bars of Seville or the rooftop restaurants of Marrakech, the small plate of tapas or mezze remains a powerful cultural symbol. In both Spain and Morocco, these dishes serve as reminders of family, heritage, and the shared joy of a gathering around the table. But globalisation complicates the story. Rising food prices, climate challenges, and tourism-driven economies mean that these once-simple pleasures are now tied to market forces and shifting consumer expectations. What began as a local tradition is now a global product—and with that visibility comes vulnerability. Nevertheless, there is potential in this evolution. If approached with care, small plates like tapas and mezze can be cultural ambassadors, bridging continents and inspiring cross-cultural dialogue. In both Spain and Morocco, the challenge lies not only in preserving culinary heritage, but in adapting it—preserving historical roots while embracing a future where tradition and innovation coexist. Tags: culinary diplomacySpain and Morocco
Euronews
13-02-2025
- Euronews
‘It's not a theme park': As tourism surges, Canary Islanders call on visitors to show more respect
Almost 100 million foreign tourists visited Spain in 2024 - and 30.5 million of them went to the Canary Islands and Balearic Islands. With more protests against overtourism planned in the island communities, Euronews Travel speaks to local residents about their concerns for the future of the Canary Islands. They say it's not that they don't want tourists – but they want to see a change in how guests plan their holiday and behave once they get to the archipelago. The Canary Islands are now a year-round holiday hotspot Guillermo, a local guide in Gran Canaria, says that this winter has been the busiest he's ever seen. That's backed up by numbers too, as last December was 1.1 per cent higher than the same period in 2023, according to data from Instituto Nacional de Estadística (INE), Spain's statistical office. The largest of the islands, Gran Canaria has always been more of a winter destination, says Guillermo, highlighting that the British came to the north of the island 200 years ago seeking out health tourism with the mild climate, medicinal waters, and the grand spas at Azuaje and Berrazales. 'Things changed in the 1950s and 1960s. People went to the south coast looking for the sun. I think things are changing again as people now come in the summer months and look at other attractions, like our landscapes, culture and history, the beauty of our hiking and diving spots, and whale watching. It's not like the Balearic Islands where everything comes to a stop in the winter.' Unlike some of his peers who work for large tour companies, Guillermo says he is 'privileged' as he runs his own company, which specialises in private and small group nature and history tours. Guillermo has traditionally spent his summers doing less guiding work, preferring to help with local conservation efforts instead, but finds that nowadays he has visitors booking him all year-round. Most of Spain's visitors came from the United Kingdom In 2024, the bulk of Spain's visitors came from three European countries: the United Kingdom, France, and Germany. Brits in Spain spent a total of €22.602 billion in 2024, notably 13.5 per cent more than 2023. Catalonia in northeastern Spain – home to popular holiday hotspots Barcelona and the lively beach resort of Costa Brava – received the most tourists at 19.9 million. But the Balearic (15.3 million visitors) and Canary Islands (15.2 million visitors) weren't far behind. These are stark figures: the seven Canary Islands have a population of just 2.2 million people, which means last year there were 6.9 times more visitors than residents. Last year, protestors took to the streets of Ibiza saying they are forced to live in cars and caravans because they can't afford housing as tourism accommodation has priced them out. Like locals in the Canaries, they said they are not against tourism per se, just the negative impacts of it on everyday life. Data shows that visitor numbers to the Canary Islands are set to rise yet again in 2025, based on visitor numbers from the first few months of this year. Even locals working in tourism are involved in protests Despite making his livelihood from the industry, Guillermo has joined the so-called 'anti-tourist' protests in Gran Canaria and tells Euronews Travel that the international media misunderstands what they are really about. He says residents want to 'regain balance' and help to solve the issues caused by the pressure of increased visitors. Right now, most of the tourism money is leaving the island, Guillermo says. 'We want a fair amount of the income that tourism creates to go to the local population. Most of the benefits go outside the island to foreign companies.' One of the biggest issues, he flags, is the 'tight situation' in housing, caused mostly by short-term rentals operated by outside players. Airbnb has not brought the money locals hoped for 'Since Airbnb started rocketing up, local people can no longer live in the areas they used to, and housing is becoming impossible across all the islands. When you find [Canarian] people having full-time jobs and not being able to pay rent, you can see that there's a problem there.' When the online booking platform arrived on the island, Guillermo says most residents thought it would be a good way for them to share in the boon of tourism. For 10 or 20 years, that was how it was used he says: 'If you had a family heritage home sitting empty, brothers and sisters could make some money.' 'But now whole buildings in Las Palmas, where people were once living, are dedicated to holiday rentals. It needs to be regulated. There are foreign companies buying up entire houses and not having to pay taxes for it here - or anywhere else. That's a big no-no.' Some nationwide rules apply to short-term rentals in the archipelago, including a mandatory registration system. From 3 April 2025, residents will be able to vote to ban some new holiday rentals in local housing areas. The regional government has similarly proposed a new law on 'Viviendas Vacacionales' (short-term rentals). But the draft is mainly focused on illegal listings and safety standards, tasking more police to shut down illegal listings, and handing out fines of €30,000 to owners of unlicensed lodgings. Nestor Marrero Rodríguez, secretary of ATAN (the Tenerife Association of Friends of Nature), and an organiser of Tenerife's overtourism protests, has the same message to tourists: 'Avoid using Airbnb because it increases rental prices for locals and generates a serious process of gentrification.' Instead, he suggests visitors stay in locally-run accommodation. Nestor highlights that mass protests are being organised for April 2025 while smaller, independent actions are underway to raise awareness. This includes a march taking place on 16 February in Tenerife's capital, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, to coincide with the FVW Travel Talk congress, a major international travel event. 'These protests would probably not even happen if locals had a better reflection of the economy that was generated in tourism,' adds Guillermo. Tourist behaviour adds fire to local pressure Canarian residents are concerned about the archipelago's fragile nature and resource use, and feel some visitors aren't always respectful. The 'worst behaviours' Nestor has witnessed in Tenerife include assaulting airplane staff, ('which cause delays'), going off authorised trails, collecting rocks and shells, and flying drones in protected areas, which he cautions 'is illegal in most of the archipelago without permission'. ' British tourists are undoubtedly the worst behaved and show dramatic reactions in person and in the media when their behaviour and rejection by the local population is exposed,' he says, adding that this is often exacerbated by overdrinking and violence. Guillermo is less critical of British visitors. 'I'm an English-speaking guide so my opinion is based solely on what I see around me. I find most British people on my tours respectful, but with all cultures there will always be people I have to tell not to litter or drop their cigarette filters on the ground. And there will always be a certain profile of people coming just for the drinks or the sun.' The local guide says that his business model relies on preserving Gran Canaria's nature. 'You might think it doesn't matter if you wander off an official path in a protected area – like the special natural reserve of the Maspalomas Dunes. But know that it's not just you – four million people are doing the same! When thousands of people trespass daily it all adds up.' 'I understand that not everyone is looking for the local culture, but I ask you to be aware that there are people living here 365 days of the year. It's not a theme park. You can't do as you please because you think someone is coming to clean your mess. We are directly affected by your misbehaving and attitudes,' adds Guillermo. Overtourism: You don't have to be part of the problem The best way to ensure you are perceived to not be part of the problem is to 'follow the rules,' says Guillermo. 'Don't drive your rental car in a place where it's not allowed. Don't pick flowers and rocks as a souvenir or wander off official paths. Try not to leave a trace.' Nestor feels that tourists who stay at all-inclusive hotels 'only leave a negative footprint of resources on the island', such as trash and water consumption issues, and adds that most all-inclusive tour operators are 'usually owned by foreign companies…that leave little profit for the local population.' Both islanders say you can help residents and 'make your tourism money matter' by supporting local businesses. 'Explore the island by yourself, hire a guide and visit our museums or go on interesting visits to our wineries or our cheese factories,' suggests Guillermo. Nestor has the same message. 'Go to the beach instead of using the pool, book real tours and experiences through social networks – you can find good companies that will offer a real experience.' Even if you are visiting for an all-inclusive beach holiday, Guillermo suggests eating dinner in a local restaurant instead of in the hotel, as he thinks most visitors will enjoy the cuisine. However he reflects that in some touristic areas where cooked English breakfasts are the norm you won't always find the true local flavour. More resources to manage visitor numbers is needed As a nature guide, Guillermo believes that any income from tourism should be used to improve vigilance and regulations in the Canary Island's natural protected areas. He thinks the local administration should create a budget to pay for better infrastructure and protection of natural resources: 'In the whole island of Lanzarote, they have just two or three forest rangers, that's very very low!' 'At Roque Nublo and Los Azulejos - the most iconic rocks in Gran Canaria - it's just too much, with cars parked in the middle of the road so even fire trucks and ambulances can't get through.'
