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Otago Daily Times
21-07-2025
- Automotive
- Otago Daily Times
'Life's work': Museum on show for 30 years
When Gerald and Jason Rhodes bought 16 acres of land beside the Wānaka Airport 32 years ago, they had a vision much more imaginative than what could be seen of the barren block. While the father and son had large imaginations, they could not foresee the hangar full of aircraft, the cases full of Barbie dolls, the classic car collection of over 600, and a train set that could rival Sir Rod Stewart's. "Everything evolves and it starts somewhere but nothing ever stays still. Our idea was that it had to be able to evolve. We had an assortment of trucks, cars, aircraft and the toys grew very rapidly on the side," Jason Rhodes said. Jason Rhodes and his father Gerald began the large project in 1995. PHOTO: OLIVIA CALDWELL The National Transport and Toy Museum turns over the amount of customers in a few days what it did in a year when it first began. Mr Rhodes said they averaged about 45,000 people through their doors a year, but this needed to keep growing to cover costs. Gerald died over a decade ago, and Jason and daughter, Debbie Rhodes, continue the legacy and what has become the southern hemisphere's largest private collection open to the public. The museum started with 100 vehicles sourced from auctions, flea markets and private collections. They now have over 600. Add in a Chatham Islands plane, cars used on movies sets such as The World's Fastest Indian, bulldozers, and car brands dating back through the years. Gerald started his career with International Harvester and then went on to establish a car and truck wrecking business in Christchurch, meaning he was always in the right place to pick up new items for his collection. Wānaka was chosen as the home for the collection for the dry climate, which helps preserve the machinery. "He always wanted to do something and was involved in the airshow in the very first stages so he supplied a lot of the ground support and that sort of thing, so we based a section down here," Jason said. The museum has had its challenges; the global financial crisis and Covid-19 both sent it into dormant periods. The Wānaka Airport, owned by the Queenstown Lakes District Council, had not made the friendliest of neighbours at times, at least the bureaucratic strand of it, he said. "They have tried their hardest to move us on. We have become big enough and ugly enough that we are in the too hard basket nowadays. Moving a place like this, the building is the easy part, then you've got the objects. "The aircraft are large and machinery can be over 100 tonne a piece and then there are the hundreds and thousands of small pieces, that you have to package up, and rehouse - that wouldn't be a fun exercise." The museum opened to the public on December 26, 1995, and will officially turn 30 at the end of the year, although it has been under way for 32 years if you include preparing it for public. At that time, it was just the main building and Hangar 1, which was built to look like the aviation hangars used in the 1940s with authentic doors from Christchurch Airport. In April 2004, the Fire Station was added, followed in December 2005 by Hangar 2, to house military collectables, planes and motorbikes. Jason said the cabinetry and displays were often more expensive than the objects themselves, but you could not put a price on fun. "We have tried to source something for everyone, no matter where you come from, from what world and what age, genders. There is generally something that you will latch on to." He believed his father would be proud of the place it had become today, and the feedback it got. "His passion was enjoying seeing people enjoy things. "Talking to the people as they go out, a lot of people aren't sure what they are in for, but it is on the way out you get those conversations and that's the best part." Sister Debbie said her brother had inherited some of their father's tendencies. "He's got a love of hoarding; he's got dad's bug." Jason said he did not believe museums were a dying breed as the proof was the amount of money local and central government were willing to put into them. "It doesn't matter where you go around the world, museums are part of society, they show us where we are going and where we have come from." "It is my life's work. There is not a hell of a lot out there that would be this old in Wānaka."


Otago Daily Times
19-07-2025
- Automotive
- Otago Daily Times
‘It is my life's work': National Transport and Toy Museum on show for 30 years
When Gerald and Jason Rhodes bought 16 acres of land beside the Wānaka Airport 32 years ago, they had a vision much more imaginative than what could be seen of the barren block. While the father and son had large imaginations, they could not foresee the hangar full of aircraft, the cases full of Barbie dolls, the classic car collection of over 600, and a train set that could rival Sir Rod Stewart's. "Everything evolves and it starts somewhere but nothing ever stays still. Our idea was that it had to be able to evolve. We had an assortment of trucks, cars, aircraft and the toys grew very rapidly on the side," Jason Rhodes said. The National Transport and Toy Museum turns over the amount of customers in a few days what it did in a year when it first began. Mr Rhodes said they averaged about 45,000 people through their doors a year, but this needed to keep growing to cover costs. Gerald died over a decade ago, and Jason and daughter, Debbie Rhodes, continue the legacy and what has become the southern hemisphere's largest private collection open to the public. The museum started with 100 vehicles sourced from auctions, flea markets and private collections. They now have over 600. Add in a Chatham Islands plane, cars used on movies sets such as The World's Fastest Indian, bulldozers, and car brands dating back through the years. Gerald started his career with International Harvester and then went on to establish a car and truck wrecking business in Christchurch, meaning he was always in the right place to pick up new items for his collection. Wānaka was chosen as the home for the collection for the dry climate, which helps preserve the machinery. "He always wanted to do something and was involved in the airshow in the very first stages so he supplied a lot of the ground support and that sort of thing, so we based a section down here," Jason said. The museum has had its challenges; the global financial crisis and Covid-19 both sent it into dormant periods. The Wānaka Airport, owned by the Queenstown Lakes District Council, had not made the friendliest of neighbours at times, at least the bureaucratic strand of it, he said. "They have tried their hardest to move us on. We have become big enough and ugly enough that we are in the too hard basket nowadays. Moving a place like this, the building is the easy part, then you've got the objects. "The aircraft are large and machinery can be over 100 tonne a piece and then there are the hundreds and thousands of small pieces, that you have to package up, and rehouse — that wouldn't be a fun exercise." The museum opened to the public on December 26, 1995, and will officially turn 30 at the end of the year, although it has been under way for 32 years if you include preparing it for public. At that time, it was just the main building and Hangar 1, which was built to look like the aviation hangars used in the 1940s with authentic doors from Christchurch Airport. In April 2004, the Fire Station was added, followed in December 2005 by Hangar 2, to house military collectables, planes and motorbikes. Jason said the cabinetry and displays were often more expensive than the objects themselves, but you could not put a price on fun. "We have tried to source something for everyone, no matter where you come from, from what world and what age, genders. There is generally something that you will latch on to." He believed his father would be proud of the place it had become today, and the feedback it got. "His passion was enjoying seeing people enjoy things. "Talking to the people as they go out, a lot of people aren't sure what they are in for, but it is on the way out you get those conversations and that's the best part." Sister Debbie said her brother had inherited some of their father's tendencies. "He's got a love of hoarding; he's got dad's bug." Jason said he did not believe museums were a dying breed as the proof was the amount of money local and central government were willing to put into them. "It doesn't matter where you go around the world, museums are part of society, they show us where we are going and where we have come from." "It is my life's work. There is not a hell of a lot out there that would be this old in Wānaka."


Irish Examiner
17-07-2025
- Automotive
- Irish Examiner
All aboard for family fun: The National Steam Rally rolls into Stradbally this August bank holiday weekend
There are few sights more stirring than a majestic steam engine rolling through the countryside – and few places capture that nostalgic magic quite like the National Steam Rally, now in its incredible 61st year. Set against the charming backdrop of Stradbally, Co Laois, this much-loved event returns over the August Bank Holiday Weekend, promising a vibrant mix of vintage heritage, music, family fun and community spirit. Taking place on Sunday, August 3rd and Monday, August 4th, the rally draws thousands of visitors annually and is proudly organised by the Irish Steam Preservation Society – a dedicated group of volunteers who keep the spirit of steam alive year after year. This year's rally is shaping up to be one of the biggest yet, packed with displays, demonstrations and attractions to suit all ages. Whether you're a vintage vehicle enthusiast, a music lover, or simply in search of a great day out with the kids, the 61st National Steam Rally has something for everyone. This year's country music stage line-up includes Michael English, Declan Nerney, Brendan Shine and more, with a full dance floor guaranteed all weekend A heritage showcase like no other One of the biggest draws of the rally has always been the awe-inspiring display of full-size and miniature steam engines, all lovingly maintained and brought to life by collectors from across Ireland and beyond. From chuffing giants of the industrial age to beautifully crafted scale models, these engines offer a glimpse into the golden era of steam. This year a special focus will shine on a gathering of International tractors – an unmissable feature for fans of vintage agricultural machinery. From International Harvester classics to rare McCormick and Farmall models, this display celebrates the legacy of one of farming's most iconic names. The rally will also feature a Heritage Village, blacksmith display, vintage cars, motorcycles, trucks, commercial vehicles, stationary engines and oil engines, alongside traditional farm equipment in action – a true living history experience. For those seeking a new perspective, helicopter rides will be available on both Saturday and Sunday, offering stunning aerial views of the rally and the picturesque Stradbally countryside. The Steam and Vintage Parade will take place on Saturday, August 2nd from 7pm Aerial view of the National Steam Rally Music to your ears It wouldn't be the National Steam Rally without a lively soundtrack – and 2025's country music line-up is nothing short of spectacular. This year's performers include: Michael English Robert Mizzell Brendan Shine Declan Nerney Louise Morrissey Olivia Douglas Shawn Cuddy Jack Keogh Gavin Gribben The Ennis Brothers Stacey Breen Alistair Fingleton The Allstar Big Band The Auld Brigade This exceptional line-up is sure to keep the stage area and dance floor buzzing all weekend long. Calling all international tractor owners to join a special gathering at this year's event A full weekend of attractions Beyond the engines and entertainment, the rally offers a wealth of hands-on experiences, demonstrations, and family-friendly fun. Young visitors will love the funfair, engaging activities, and the chance to experience the sights and sounds of a bygone era in a safe and welcoming environment. Meanwhile, the ever-popular Craft Village will be packed with artisan vendors offering handmade goods, unique gifts and traditional products – perfect for a browse between the day's events. The bustling Trade Stand Area brings together everything from vintage parts and tools to toys, books, clothing and local artisan products. And don't miss your chance to hop aboard the Stradbally Woodland Railway, which will be running throughout the weekend. This charming narrow-gauge railway winds through the forest beside the rally field and is a must-do for children and adults alike. The weekend kicks off with the much-loved Steam & Vintage Parade, taking place on Saturday, August 2nd, as steam engines and vintage vehicles roll through the streets of Stradbally in a spectacular showcase of heritage in motion. A family favourite and brilliant photo opportunity, it's the perfect way to start the festivities. The National Steam Rally has everything from steam engines to vintage cars, tractors and motorbikes With so much happening across the site, the rally makes for the perfect day out – or even a full weekend getaway – for families, collectors and curious newcomers alike. There are plenty of food and drink options, indoor and outdoor seating, accessible facilities, and a genuinely welcoming atmosphere that keeps people coming back year after year. And for those who love a bit of nostalgia? You'll find it around every corner – in the hiss of a steam whistle, the scent of coal and oil, and the friendly faces who make this event so special. Camping facilities are available from Friday, August 1st to Tuesday, August 5th for tents, caravans and campervans. Rally & Camping Tickets are available at Come for the heritage, stay for the music, laughter, memories and magic. Whether you're eight or 80, the 61st National Steam Rally promises an unforgettable experience at the heart of Ireland's summer calendar. Don't miss the steam-powered celebration of the year

Business Insider
10-06-2025
- Business Insider
Take a look inside Vizcaya, the 45,000-square-foot Gilded Age mansion near the heart of Miami
Vizcaya was James Deering's winter home from 1916 until his death in 1925. Struggling with illness toward the end of his life, James Deering came to Miami, then a small city surrounded by mangrove forests and wetlands, looking for tropical warmth, which was believed to help improve health. By the turn of the century, the Deering family had begun to develop estates around South Florida, with patriarch William Deering purchasing a home in Coconut Grove in 1900. By the time James Deering began building Vizcaya, his brother, Charles Deering, was also developing a winter home in the south of Miami. The property, known today as Deering Estate, also operates as a museum and is open to the public. The main house features 54 rooms, including 34 rooms decorated with their original furniture. Expanding over 45,225 square feet, Vizcaya's main house features the living spaces of James Deering himself, his guests, and the house staff. Envisioned by interior designer Paul Chalfin, Vizcaya took inspiration from the Italian Renaissance adapted to South Florida's subtropical climate, and showcases furniture, artworks, and artifacts purchased by Chalfin and Deering on their travels to Europe. Although Miami's population was estimated to be only 10,000 in 1916, the construction of the Vizcaya estate employed an estimated 1,000 workers, many of whom were Black immigrants from the Bahamas. Apart from the main house, Vizcaya is also home to the Vizcaya Village, the historic quarters of the mansion's workers and farmers that allowed Vizcaya to serve as a self-sufficient farm-to-table estate. The Village expands over 12 acres and includes 11 "architecturally significant" buildings, according to the museum's website. The tour begins in the courtyard, which is adorned with tropical plants. Lined with tropical plants like palms and philodendrons, the courtyard highlights South Florida's natural beauty while adhering to the mansion's European inspirations. While today the courtyard is covered by a glass canopy that allows for the estate's air conditioning, it was originally open to the elements, allowing the tropical climate to seep into the main house. Meant to be used as Vizcaya's main entrance, the East Loggia opens up to the Biscayne Bay. Featuring marble floors and columns and decorated ceilings, the East Loggia was meant to serve as Vizcaya's main entrance for guests arriving by sea, which was Deering's intended — and preferred — way of entering the mansion. It was used as an entrance for guests who arrived by boat, while the current main entrance of the museum was used as a back entrance for guests arriving by car. The room also features a model boat hanging from its ceiling in honor of the explorers who inspired Deering's interpretation of Vizcaya. Although he began living in Vizcaya during his retirement, Deering included multiple working spaces in the property. James Deering was heir to the International Harvester manufacturing firm, which produced tractors and other agricultural machinery, and he worked as its vice president from 1902 until 1909. Deering might have been one of the first prominent Florida "snowbirds," retirees who travel South during the colder months. His downstairs library, located in the northwest corner of the main house, is located steps from the entrance hall that welcomes guests. It features Deering's personal book collection, desks for him and a secretary, and seats for business guests. When closed, the door leading to the next room — a reception room meant for entertaining guests — is concealed within the book-lined walls. The reception room features a ceiling imported from Venice, which had to be resized to fit. The reception room is lined with tropical-inspired silk panels showing palm trees. Our tour guide brought our attention to the ceiling, which is decorated with sculpted panels that extend to the sides of the room. The ceiling was imported from Venice and purchased before construction on the property was finished. By the time workers were putting up the decorations in the mansion, they realized that the ceiling panel did not fit the room dimensions, leading to the restructuring of the panel, which curved into the walls. "We should remember that this house was built during the First World War," curator Flaminia Gennari said in the audio tour. "So to import large quantities from Italy in the middle of the war was very complicated." Vizcaya's telephone line was one of the first in Miami. Wired throughout the house, Vizcaya features a highly innovative telephone system for the time. Only 17 years before the beginning of Vizcaya's construction did the Miami Telephone Company begin providing telephone service to the city. Vizcaya's telephones also featured automatic electric exchange, allowing users to connect directly to the number they dialed without going through a human operator. The telephone room, located between two of Vizcaya's main entertainment rooms, was meant for guests to communicate privately without disturbing the flow of the entertainment. The living room showcased Deering's most impressive collections. The living room, with its 1600s limestone fireplace, features some of Vizcaya's most impressive items, including an "admiral carpet" originally commissioned in the 1450s by the grandfather of King Ferdinand II of Spain, the Spanish king who sponsored Christopher Columbus' exploration of the Americas. The room also features throne-like armchairs where US President Ronald Reagan and Pope John Paul II sat in 1987 during the Pope's visit to America. A centerpiece of the room is the Welte Philharmonic Organ, which was meant to fill the house with music through elaborate sound systems. Designed for guests rather than full-time professional players, the organ uses perforated paper rolls to aid the musicians' performance by adjusting notes and volume. Concealing the organ pipes is an oil painting, which was cut in half to cover wooden doors. "Chalfin had the idea of cutting it in half and using it as the doors of the organs, which is not a very respectful thing to do for a representation of the Virgin Mary, the child, and the saints, but it somehow testifies to the freedom and positive carelessness that they had around old objects," Gennari said in the audio tour. The mansion's formal dining room features the house's oldest artifacts, although it was rarely used. While Deering himself didn't eat in the formal dining room often, he made sure that the room was impressively decorated for his guests. Sitting to the side is the room's most awe-inspiring feature: a marble tabletop sitting on carved bases resembling mythical creatures, which were historical artifacts unearthed near Pompeii, dating back to the times before Mount Vesuvius' eruption. Next to the dining room, on the south side of the mansion, the enclosed loggia gave guests a view of the gardens. The colorful glass panels, designed for Vizcaya, feature the estate's main symbols: the seahorse and the caravan. Providing a view of the garden through the glass panels and double doors, the enclosed loggia allowed guests to take in the garden views while staying cool from the Florida sun. The loggia also connects the gardens to the main house through sculpted iron gates. Aside from giving guests an inside view of the gardens from the ground level, the room also connects the outdoors to the rest of the mansion. Downstairs, the kitchen worked as a serving space for staff to plate food and bring it to guests. When designing Vizcaya, Deering asked for the main kitchen to be built upstairs as he didn't want the smell of food to flood the main entertaining rooms on the first floor. To facilitate the transportation of meals and the serving of guests to the dining room, the entertaining rooms, and the loggia, he built a downstairs serving pantry. Today, the serving pantry cabinets display one set of Deering's fine dining china, the one designated for his 80-foot-long luxury yacht, Nepenthe. Commissioned in 1912 to be shipped from Europe, the original set of china purchased by Deering was transported to America as cargo aboard the Titanic. After the ship sank, a replacement set was ordered and is now displayed. The kitchens feature state-of-the-art Gilded Age technology. Throughout the house, Deering incorporated cutting-edge technology, including annunciators with bells connected throughout the house that Deering or guests could ring at any time to get the house staff's attention. Another then-advanced feature of the serving kitchen were its refrigerators, which were rare at the time. The kitchen also featured a warming oven that helped keep food warm while guests were served. Connecting to the upstairs kitchen, which serves as the house's main cooking area, was a dumbwaiter: a food elevator meant to carry the food cooked upstairs to the downstairs plating area, where staff would then take it to the main entertaining rooms, like the dining and sitting rooms. Upstairs, 24 rooms housed guests, staff, and Deering himself. Nine of the bedrooms were dedicated to guests and each was given a name and decorated uniquely, showcasing the artifacts and furniture purchased by Deering and Chalfin on trips to Europe. While not open to the public, an additional 14 rooms housed staff. Another then-advanced technological feature of Vizcaya was its elevator. Deering was motivated to move to South Florida because of his illness, so accessibility features were built throughout the house, such as the elevator he would take when using a wheelchair or to avoid walking upstairs. Today, the elevator isn't open to the public, and the museum's second floor is not wheelchair accessible. Deering's main office was inspired by the Napoleonic era. Connected to Deering's bedroom and bathroom, the sitting room was his office where he would tend to business and personal matters, such as sorting his mail. The decoration style was inspired by Napoleonic France. Deering's bedroom was modest compared to some of his guest bedrooms. His personal bathroom has one of the most breathtaking views of the property. Opening up to a balcony, Deering's bathroom looks over Biscayne Bay and has one of the best views of the house, although it is not accessible to the public today. The closed-off balcony also leads to a secret door to the Espagnolette, the guest bedroom located next to his, usually reserved for Deering's dearest guests. Spiral staircases lead to the South tower. A set of spiral staircases leads up to the South tower, one of the two guest suites overlooking the estate. The tower bedroom has views of the bay and the gardens. The corner room atop the North tower was designed to transport guests to Europe. "Water reflects upwards to the ceiling and the sound of waves is audible in this room, precisely as upon the quay of this great canal of Venice," noted Chalfin about the room, according to the mansion's website. A central piece in the room is a large wardrobe assembled with 1700s Venetian panels, as well as the antique painted closet doors. The breakfast room was Deering's preferred dining space. Back on the second floor, the breakfast room was the central entertaining spot. The room is lined with oil paintings depicting ocean scenes, and the windows slide into pocket doors, revealing views of the garden. It also features a sound system, with a piano hidden away in a room off the spiral staircase next door and connected to the breakfast room through floor vents that allow sound to travel into the space. Most times, Deering opted to dine in this room rather than the formal dining space. Tucked next to the breakfast room is the main kitchen. Designed to maximize staff efficiency, the main kitchen upstairs has different areas for different tasks, including separate sinks for washing dishes and produce. It also features ice boxes, or refrigerators of the time, powered by salt water. During Deering's time at the estate, Vizcaya employed two French chefs dedicated to food and pastries. Food served at the mansion was sourced from the staff village built across the street, where a farm provided vegetables, dairy, chicken, herbs, and citrus. "You and I could come down and drive into the farm area, stop and buy a dozen Deering eggs and take them home and have them for breakfast, and I think that was probably particularly important during World War I," historian Arva Moore Parks said in the audio tour. "He was able to supply not only himself but his workers also." Inspired by European designs, the gardens feature mazes, terraces, fountains, and more. Inspired by 17th- and 18th-century Italian and French villas, the Vizcaya gardens feature a variety of scenes, from a garden theater to multiple paths and mazes, intended to highlight and enhance the native South Florida flora surrounding the estate. The original layout of Vizcaya featured over 180 acres of subtropical forests. Today, that number has gone down to 50 acres. In 1987, President Ronald Reagan hosted Pope John Paul II at the estate. On September 10, 1987, President Ronald Reagan welcomed Pope John Paul II at Vizcaya, where the two conversed while exploring the gardens and the estate. Atop a garden mount is the Casino, a focal point of the gardens. Located at the top of garden mounds designed to block the reflection of water ponds into the main house, the garden casino — Italian for "little house" — was a space where Deering and his guests could take in the garden views or enjoy the subtropical weather without being in direct contact with the sun. Inside the building, a painted ceiling depicts heavenly images. Underneath, bathrooms and other now closed-off areas hide under decorated ceilings. Originally, the casino overlooked a water park part of the estate, where gondolas would be launched, a crucial part of Deering's vision for Vizcaya. Today, the water park no longer exists, and the land is instead taken up by a Catholic church, hospital, and schools after the Deering family sold part of the property to the Catholic Diocese of St. Augustine in 1946. The opposite side of the estate was once used for clandestine entertainment; now, it is a café. While today a café sits underneath the mansion, the space served as a leisure center during Deering's stay. The rooms were filled with billiard tables, bowling alleys, and leather chairs. Hidden underneath the billiards table was also a roulette table, which Deering often used when his college friends visited the estate. The mansion, which opened at the peak of the Prohibition era, also had a decent supply of liquor, which Deering smuggled into the estate and hid in secret bars and cellars. The swimming pool is half-covered, providing relief from South Florida's relentless sun. Tucked next to the leisure rooms underneath the main house is the half-indoor swimming pool, in which Deering is said to have only swum once. Designed as the main entry point to the mansion, the east side of the mansion opens up to a stone barge in the Biscayne Bay. When he first moved into his winter home in December 1916, Deering arrived by sea on what he intended was the front entrance to Vizcaya. Opening up to the Biscayne Bay, the waterfront side of the property features a stone barge, a sculpted structure that acts as a breakwater and protects the main house from changing tides and waves. Today, the mansion hosts private events and has become a local staple for Quinceañera pictures. Purchased from the Deering family by Miami-Dade County for $1 million in 1962, Vizcaya today operates as a museum open to the public and for private reservations. The estate is often the background of Quinceañera pictures from Miami's large Hispanic population. Walking around the gardens, I saw multiple young women dressed in extravagant gowns posing in the many stunning locations of the estate. Along with being a photographic hot spot, Vizcaya also hosts private events, from Miami Swim Week runway shows to floral-decorated weddings in the gardens. Today, the estate remains an icon of Miami, a city that many would often relate to modern luxury rather than the old and classic wealth on display in Gilded Age -style mansions like Vizcaya.

Sydney Morning Herald
02-05-2025
- Business
- Sydney Morning Herald
Global soul drives Dandenong through highs and lows
'As I was living in the UK, we could see some sort of prejudice,' says Steve Khan, who runs an Indian grocer. But in Dandenong 'we all have a sense – if I see another person, I know he too has migrated. We don't have that prejudice.' Racial conflict is often fuelled by fears new immigrants will take jobs or resources. But rather than fear, many locals see hope of a new, better future. Migrant entrepreneurs line the streets. Makonese tells me she felt she had to buy her shop because she could see so many other migrants buying up property. 'Walk into any of these shops and ask them about their story,' says Jim Memeti. 'They would have come here with nothing. And they have established themselves now.' Memeti is a case in point. By 19 he had his own poultry shop – eventually he would own 20. Now he's the mayor. 'Australia has been a really good country for me and my family,' he says. He is one of the rare mayors who does not complain about crowded local roads or infrastructure delivery. 'We're pretty happy, actually,' he says with a laugh. The city is well served for transport. The recently widened Monash Freeway runs straight into the city, and EastLink offers an orbital route. There is a large train and bus interchange. 'It's so close to everything,' says Louise Noy, who has sold pet goods at the market for 24 years. 'You've got your hospitals here. You've got all your services here. Why would you not want to go here?' The ability to buy a slice of the Australian dream surrounded by a white picket fence is a major draw. Dandenong remains relatively affordable to rent and buy in compared with other nearby areas, but prices continue to grow. The average house price rose from $475,000 in 2016 to $734,000 in 2025. Average weekly rents have climbed more steeply, up from $395 in 2023 to $530 – an increase many can't afford. The city is now a hotspot for homelessness and rough sleeping. A global suburb Dandenong is a global suburb, so it is exposed to the tides and eddies of the global economy, for good and ill. The long postwar boom ended in the '70s, and the federal government's move to slash tariffs exposed local factories to competition from low-paid foreign workforces. International Harvester went broke, the GM factory closed in 1991 and Heinz in 2000. Working-class families reliant on those jobs, who could once afford to buy homes and cars and whitegoods, found themselves pushed into poverty. Unemployment at Doveton, a social-housing estate that neighbours Dandenong, reached 19 per cent in 1991; poverty rates jumped from 10 per cent to 37 per cent. This once comfortably middle-class suburb is now stuck in the poverty trap. Unemployment hit 21 per cent there in 2015, almost four times higher than the national average. 'In Doveton we have the third generation of a household that does not have a job,' says Gabrielle Williams, the state MP for Dandenong. 'That's extraordinarily concerning' and very hard to fix, she says. Refugees face a different problem – many are prevented from working because of the conditions of their visas. Eventually, the kindness of friends and family runs out and many find themselves homeless. The local Asylum Seeker Resource Centre is directly supporting 160 refugees, and a further 400 people use its food bank. Poverty can foment criminality. In the early '90s Dandenong became pockmarked by urban blight: dying retail strips, vacant buildings, smashed storefronts. Dandenong still has the 12th highest rate of offences per head of population of any Victorian postcode. Most locals say they don't feel safe walking around the suburb after dark. It is Melbourne's most disadvantaged local government area. News Corp christened it the 'the worst place in Melbourne' in 2015. Then came media focus on gang violence and the Apex Gang, a group of young men based in Dandenong who were responsible for a wave of carjackings and burglaries across the state (despite the police saying no such gang existed). Cameron Prins, local area police commander for Greater Dandenong, says: 'Certainly that is the history. But greater Dandenong is a safe place to live and to visit – and that's an important message the community need to understand.' But disadvantage is not the driver of local crime, he says. 'We look at it from the perspective of the community being a little bit more susceptible,' he says. Steve Khan was one of those who lost his job in the early '90s recession. With few other options, he agreed to go into business with a family friend. Their first shop, on Mason Street, 'had been vacant for god knows how many years – not a single windowpane was intact', he says. They sold Indian groceries and rented videos, across from another store selling Indian sweets. One store on a deserted street is a risk, but two is a sign of success. Soon, more Indian stores came, selling Punjab suits and sarees, biryanis, gulab jamun and mustard oil. By the late '90s, Little India was thriving (Khan is now vice president of the traders' association). Their success seems to have sparked a new identity for the suburb. Little India now abuts a thriving Afghan precinct in Thomas Street, where nearly every trader would have once come as a refugee, the mayor says. An inaugural Ramadan Night Market in April was so successful the council plans to bring it back for a whole month next year. At Shams Restaurant, my table is soon laden with chicken and lamb smoky from the charcoal grill, maunto dumplings stuffed with meat and spices, and cups of green tea sweetened with small fruit candies. 'In my community, I know lots of people, they are looking for shops to rent or to buy,' owner Murtaza Khoshiwal tells me over the food. 'They want to invest in Dandenong. Last week, one of my friends, he bought a house. I said, 'It's very old.' But he said, 'It does not matter because the location is good.'' Perhaps most important is that the state and federal governments embarked on a huge redevelopment program in 2006 to address urban decline and to try to turn Dandenong into a second CBD. Government and private investment totalling more than $1 billion has beautified the suburb's public spaces. The market and town hall have been redeveloped, there's a new theatre, community hub, library and public square, and a new $122.5 million pool is coming soon. A private developer has been tapped to deliver a $600 million redevelopment, turning a slice of the suburb into a mixed-use development of apartments, retail and businesses – a process that requires demolishing Little India. Unemployment is now down to 6 per cent, only a couple of points higher than the national average. That redevelopment has been slower than many stakeholders wanted, and remains incomplete. 'But my goodness, I wish we had more – the scale of investment in Dandenong outweighs almost anything else that's been done in Victoria,' says Dr Hayley Henderson, an Australian National University researcher who has studied Dandenong's rebuild. 'We haven't seen a comprehensive revitalisation program like it since.' And that's the story of Dandenong, really. One of rebuilding, one of striving for something better. Aman Najimi has lived in Dandenong for 25 years and runs the Sadaqat Halal Butcher on Thomas Street for 18. 'When we first came to this street, it was only one shop,' he says from behind the meat counter. 'People were scared to walk in this street. But now … all the shops are open. Since Afghan people came to this street, to Dandenong, everything has been good.'