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Telegraph
4 days ago
- Telegraph
My partner hates my ‘boring' beach holidays – so we tried a boat-and-bike odyssey instead
My partner Mico hates holidays. More to the point, he hates beach holidays, saying he finds them boring and would rather be at work. I, meanwhile, am never happier than when lying prone with a book, or watching the world go by from a five-star vantage point, Bellini in hand. Meanwhile, Mico is only happy in perpetual motion – and happier still if a near-death experience is involved. We skied together once. He flitted off down the black runs while I sipped hot chocolate in a Tyrolean cafe. I barely saw him. As a result, I generally go on holiday alone. Last month, however, I decided we should go away for my 60th birthday and – as I was calling the shots this time – he agreed to join me. I agonised over finding a trip which would suit us both until, at last, I hit upon what seemed like a happy compromise: a boat and bike tour, ticking enough 'luxury boxes' for me while simultaneously addressing his need for adventure. It would, I resolved, keep us both happy – or make us both miserable. It was worth a try. I'd long fancied Croatia, but had always been a bit confused by all the islands. Where do you start? People are always telling me a boat is the only way to go, but if you aren't a sailor, or one of the super-rich capable of affording a charter, where does that leave you? Here, too, I eventually found a solution – a tour with Freedom Treks, involving the classier type of motor boat, plus e-bikes. Rather than join the throngs that descend on Split and Dubrovnik, I opted for Istria, the verdant northern peninsula that borders Italy and Slovenia. As his father came from Croatia, Mico had been there as a child, and remembered it as the most beautiful part of the country. I was cautiously optimistic. We flew to Zagreb and made the roughly two-hour drive west to the tiny port of Omišalj on the island of Krk, where we boarded our boat, the Andela Lora. Under blazing sunshine, we met our fellow cyclists – a friendly, cosmopolitan bunch of English- and German-speakers mostly in their sixties – and our Croatian guides, Kristofor and Martina, who explained that a WhatsApp group would alert us to the daily schedule as we threaded our way around the Istrian coastline. We set sail for Cres, the joint largest of Croatia's islands – dropping anchor in a bay en route so that we could plunge into the cool Adriatic for a dip – before disembarking to explore the medieval town with its pastel coloured houses and narrow winding streets. We had a glorious dinner on deck and, the following day, continued onwards to Pula – the capital of Istria, on the southern tip of the peninsula. As we sailed, Kristofor and Martina took the opportunity to give our group a crash course in the Croatian language – including the alphabet, and such crucial phrases as 'two beers please' – then we docked, right in front of the well-preserved Roman amphitheatre for which the city is famous. The e-bikes were unloaded and Kristofor explained the route – a gentle loop of 27km, with a coffee stop in Vodnjan, a medieval town with twisting cobbled streets, painted shutters, and vibrant murals painted by a collection of graffiti artists. We set off along the seafront before turning in-land through olive groves and vineyards, pulling over every few kilometres for water and a detailed briefing on the upcoming terrain. Though I am not an experienced cyclist (excepting my weekly spin class), Mico is frighteningly fit, and I worried initially that the 'moderate level' tour I had chosen – where daily bike rides were all between a (seemingly manageable) 27-59km – might not be 'active' enough for him. I needn't have worried. Despite Kristofor's reminders that this was not a race, Mico paid no heed and, during less challenging stretches, entertained himself by riding behind me, egging me on as if might be in training for the Tour de France. 'Come on Sharon, you won't get far like that!' he'd yell as I puffed away, virtuously trying to remain in the bike's more challenging 'eco' mode as much as possible. The next morning we sailed on to Vrsar, from where we cycled along the Limski Canal to Poreč and spent the night, before heading off on the longest, steepest ride of the week – sensibly scheduled right in the middle of the trip – the following day: a 66.3km loop from Poreč to Novigrad. The most intense portion of this 'undulating' (as Kristofor euphemistically phrased it) ride was the incline up to the hilltop village of Grožnjan. Pedalling hard, eyes ahead, head down, I pushed through a wall of heat, as beads of perspiration trickled into my eyes. I could hear cyclists behind me clicking down their gears. One of the Swiss women sailed past; 'Switch it to turbo!' she yelled in a tone that seemed to suggest there was no way I'd manage it. But I'd made up my mind. Fed up with my snail's pace, Mico whizzed by in a race to the summit, neck and neck with one of the fit Germans who'd brought a proper cycling kit. When I eventually arrived, red faced and drenched, he informed me that he'd 'won' – though he did later admit he'd broken our pact to ride in eco mode. 'Winning was more important,' he shrugged. Grožnjan was, however, a fitting consolation – a pretty village known as 'the City of Artists' where once-abandoned houses now play host to a community of creatives who sell their crafts and paintings to visitors like us. That night at dinner, my new Californian friend Janet leant over and asked in a conspiratorial whisper if the rumours were true. I blushed – what could she be talking about? 'I heard you spent the whole day in eco mode.' She grinned, 'what an achievement!' Hearing Janet's congratulations, Sally – who, at 77, was pretty fit herself – leaned across and said she was 'jolly impressed', and I felt a sudden pang of pride. Mico wasn't bothered, but now that I had other friends – people who I couldn't help thinking might make more suitable travelling companions on future holidays – I didn't care. On the penultimate morning of our trip, as Rovinj – a place Martina had excitedly told us was the 'pinnacle' of the week – came into view, I was reminded, once again, just how lovely it is to arrive by boat. Arriving at picturesque Rovinj by boat was a highlight of Sharon's trip With its colourful, tightly crowded houses plunging almost straight down to the water and the hilltop church of St Euphemia soaring above, it was enchanting, as was the beautiful pine-covered coast and the stunning bays beyond, which we explored by bike. On our final day – just as a 'heat dome' engulfed the region – we sailed away from Istria and back towards the mainland, docking on Krk once more, this time at the village of Njivice. A few sensible souls stayed on board fearing heat stroke, while the rest of us disembarked and prepared to bike the 43km on to Omišalj. This time – still basking in the satisfaction of my eco-mode achievements – I felt I'd earned a bit of respite, and was only too happy to call on the bike's battery power (oh, what a blessed relief it was to flick through the settings into turbo when we reached the hills). If I'd put it on at the beginning of the week, there would have been no going back, but – despite all the truffle-loaded fresh pasta, local wines and gelato – I really did feel fitter after a week of hard graft and perpetual motion. It was, I'll admit, refreshing to come back from an indulgent holiday feeling slimmer and with such a sense of achievement – not something I've ever experienced after a week lying on a beach. And despite the constant moving from place to place, not having to worry about arranging anything myself (no faff with maps, or packing and unpacking or having to find your way, or the endless hours looking for hotels) meant that I still came back thoroughly relaxed. Crucially, Mico's verdict was also a positive one: moving at the pace of a large group did frustrate him to begin with, but by the end of the trip, even he seemed to have chilled out. 'You do so much you can't get bored, and you come back feeling really good,' he enthused. 'I'd definitely go again, just on a different route with fewer stops.' So, our great holiday compromise was an overall success. Though he's now plotting a self-guided bike tour with his friend Simon, a keen cyclist. So much for holidaying together: I'm afraid I've unleashed a monster. Essentials Freedom Treks (01273 977906) has a seven-night Highlights of Istria Deluxe Boat and E-Bike Tour trip from £1,469 per person, including stops in Omišalj, Cres, Pula, Poreč, Novigrad, Rovinj and Rabac. E-bike hire from £235pp; transfers from Zagreb airport from £64pp. Various departure dates throughout 2026. Flights extra.
Condé Nast Traveler
16-07-2025
- Condé Nast Traveler
Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Istria, Croatia's Picturesque Peninsula
Istria—with its sleepy fishing villages, azure waters, and verdant hills of truffle, olive, and vine—is still, miraculously, under the radar. Straddling both Mediterranean and Balkan identity, this pointed peninsula makes for not only a perfect Tuscan rival, but for a softer, more refined counterpart to the tourist-soaked Dalmatian coast. Luckily, a raft of new flight routes from UK airports have pushed open the floodgates, as have a new wave of design-forward hotels, farm-to-fork restaurants, and coastal hideaways. Put simply, Istria is now very much a contender for a worthy weekend getaway for those based in Europe or a tack-on to a longer Balkans jaunt, though bear in mind that such isolated, abundant beauty comes at a slight cost in terms of public transport infrastructure (more on how to get around below). The small scale and easy roads of the region mean that a typical Istrian day can kick off with some truffle hunting among the inland hills of Motovun, or Buzet, before twisting into a lunchtime snorkel down along the craggy coasts. By sunset, you're in the quaint old towns of Rovinj, or Porec, sipping crisp Malvazija and wondering where on earth the day went. Somehow, this place has managed to stay simultaneously refined, yet wild; relaxed, yet always on the move, boasting more cyclists than seagulls, and as many outdoors enthusiasts as there are cashmere clad couples on catamarans. FAQ: What's the best way to get to Istria? AccordionItemContainerButton LargeChevron While there are no direct flights from the US to Pula, it's easily reached via a connection through major European hubs like Frankfurt, Munich, or London. From there, regional carriers like Croatia Airlines operate short flights directly into Pula Airport. Likewise, easyJet has expanded its Croatian reach, with returns from Pula to London starting from around $64 per person. For those happy to pair the trip with a scenic drive, Venice Marco Polo Airport—served by direct flights from New York, Boston, and Chicago—is just a two-and-a-half-hour drive away from the Istrian border, making it a popular entry point for international travelers, and an ace roadtrip en route. What's the best way to get around Istria? AccordionItemContainerButton LargeChevron With the region's dual geography of coast and grove, a rental car is must, with providers like Kayak offering up a Croat car for as little as $43 a day. In terms of pick-up points, Pula Airport is the most convenient choice if flying directly, and boasts several international hire desks. As above, if landing in Italy, many travellers opt to grab a car in Venice, or Trieste, and drive over the border into Croatia. This route offers sweeping sea views, and drops you directly into Istria's hilltop villages, and vineyards—a no brainer. Monte is the first Michelin-starred restaurant in Croatia. Mateja Vrcković A sun-drenched table set for a multi-course tasting at Monte. Maja Danica Pečanić Where to eat in Istria Istria has long been associated with gastronomy of the purest kind, with a deep, quasi-religious focus on the purity of olives, grapes, and the ever-elusive truffle. It's not surprising then, that the entire region is littered with high-quality eateries, from Michelin stars to local taverns (referred to as konobas) all offering a slice of the landscape in one place. The highest concentration of superstar eats is in and around the fashionable fishing town of Rovinj, home to Croatia's first Michelin-starred restaurant, Monte. However, for a more casual bite, head to Puntulina, built into the cliff-face, so close to the spray that the Adriatic anchovies may as well jump straight out of the sea and onto the plate. Set within the Grand Park Hotel, Cap Aureo is world-class fine dining with a difference. In chef Jeffrey Vella's dishes, flavor and seasonality are king (such as his life-affirming cauliflower 'three-ways' appetizer), with welcome flair and understated theatrics. At Cap Aureo Signature Restaurant in Rovinj, modern Croatian cuisine is elevated to an art form, served with precision and flair. Mario Kucera/Grand Park Hotel Rovinj A little further south, in the placid olive groves of Bale, Villa Meneghetti's restaurant offers a local menu, gleaned from their own groves and garden, cooked up by 28-year-old wunderkind Ante Miletic. Dishes dance between truffle-topped fuži pastas, Lim Bay oysters, or whatever is budding in the abundant kitchen garden that day. Heading north into the fairytale hill towns of Motovun, Grožnjan, and more, easier offerings can be found in one of the many roadside konobas, with Konoba Stari Podrum's convivial garden and open grill well worth popping the hazard lights on for. It's worth remembering that, for Istrians, wine is almost as big a deal as olive oil—and rightly so. In recent years, both have been cleaning up international awards, and none more so than those of historic winery Kozlović, whose über modern, panoramic tasting room embodies the region's forward thinking approach, playfully poking out into the ancient, flowing vineyards, and cream fields of Buje. Sunseekers flock to the turquoise waters and rocky charm of Hawaii Beach in Pula, Croatia—a tucked-away cove that's anything but secret in summer. Devgnor/Getty Where to play in Istria The joy of Istria is reveling in the mash-up of coast and countryside—and when it comes to play, the place manages to be both relaxed and elemental. Inland, take a dog walk with a difference, at the family run Prodan Tartufi, whose expert snouts (and three generations of human equivalents!) will lead you through the wild, misty hills of Buzet—a town locals say has more truffle dogs than people. It's worth remembering that nobody leaves Istria without having tasted truffles a hundred ways, from scrambled eggs to ice cream. Beyond hills of so-called 'Black Gold' there's also a handful of serene swimming lakes and waterfalls, such as local spot Zarečki Krov, which is well worth the drive for a lazy lunch.
Condé Nast Traveler
07-07-2025
- Condé Nast Traveler
Grand Park Rovinj — Hotel Review
Why book? Because it's the most stylish and spoiling place to stay in Croatia right now—a stunning glass-and-stone monument of a hotel, perched high above the Adriatic, where every room has a front-row seat over Rovinj's charming, tumbling Old Town and yacht-filled marina. It's confident, cool, and collected, with just enough edge to keep things interesting. Set the scene Tucked into a pine-covered hillside just a short walk from Rovinj's historic Old Town, Grand Park feels more like a Bond villain lair (in the best way) than a beach resort. It's a haven for everyone from Birkenstock bros and their grid-ready beaus to old-money retirees—with some linen-clad families thrown in for good measure. Recently, the hotel has become part of a new wave reshaping Croatia's luxury scene—less yacht-party, more low-key Riviera chic—while still maintaining a homey feel. The place is stylish, too, with every restaurant, bar, and even corridor achieving that surprisingly rare hotel feat: showcasing genuinely good art. A moment is made out of everything—and none more so than in the spectacular main lobby, with its vast, floor-to-ceiling views over the city. Here, even check-in is transformed from pedestrian passport handover to what feels like a colossal, living, breathing oil painting. Backstory Opened in 2019 by Maistra Collection (a Croatian-owned group slowly and tastefully elevating the region's hospitality game) Grand Park was a statement of intent. It replaced an older, blander hotel with a bold architectural concept—built down into the landscape, not on top of it—and filled it with custom Italian furniture, local artwork, and one of the best wellness centers on the Adriatic. Co-designed by the renowned Milan-based Lissoni Architettura and Croatia's own architectural studio 3LHD, the hotel is infused with chill vibes, and has since become the spot to book if you want a sun-drenched Croatian escape with all the comforts of home. Rooms It's one of the few hotels where corridors get an honorable mention, with their sultry, Kubrickian mood, one that leads into the rooms themselves with bursts of blond wood, slate-gray stone, and low-slung furniture. It's luxurious, but in a controlled way—like letting a monk loose with a credit card. As with the rest of the hotel, everything in-room is purposeful and considered, from the art (not just prints, but integrated sculptures and ceramics) to the generous bathrooms, with titanic tubs and rainfall showers. Families will gravitate to the corner suites for space and privacy, but couples will be more than happy with the well-priced park-facing rooms. If it's splashing out you're after, then look to the Sea View Suites, some of which come with private plunge pools. You'll find a kind of effortless flow that wants to pull you back out onto the terrace, then over the water, and back into the warm stone walls of the Old Town. Food and drink The real star here is the world-class restaurant Cap Aureo, a fine-dining flagship led by chef Jeffrey Vella. Just like the rest of the property, it playfully pokes at the established rulebook with flavor-first flair and a touch of edgy zen. Get the mushroom tiramisu and the best cube of lamb you'll ever encounter. Breakfast is a lavish, Mediterranean-meets-Scandi affair that hits the wellness crowd hard. Think sourdough, juice bars, protein-rich cuts of meat and cheese, honeycomb slabs, and eggs any way you want, all served by expert staff. There's a strong offering across the lunch menu, and even the in-room dining is better than most—so much so that it's worth scheduling a sunset dinner on your personal balcony. Pro tip: If you drink coffee, avoid the bustle of the breakfast room and get a cup in the quieter lobby bar, Viva Eufemia, with its lofty sofas that gaze out over the marina. Spa At nearly 41,000 square feet, there are enough saunas, steam rooms, pools, and treatment rooms to keep you occupied for hours, as well as a sprawling relaxation room, complete with herbal tea and a hydration station, that stretches out into the pine-forest-backed gardens. In terms of pools, there's both a freshwater sports pool and top floor infinity offering that, from the right angle, seems to be a continuation of the sea itself. The hotel's gentle poke at established norms continues here too, with unusual spa treatments ranging from liqueur-infused wraps to expert massages that make use of Istria's pride and joy—olive oil. The neighborhood You're right on the edge of Rovinj—close enough to walk into town for a treat or a gallery visit, but far enough to feel cocooned. The Lungomare Plaza, a waterfront promenade at the foot of the hotel, is lined with concept stores, a Japanese restaurant, and a fantastic gelateria (skip dessert upstairs and come down here instead). Rovinj's cobbled lanes, baroque churches, and seafood bistros are just a 10-minute walk away. Crucially—and unlike most hotels of this ilk—the Grand Park is not concerned with keeping you held within its crosshairs at all times, like a helicopter parent. Instead, in a display of admirable self-confidence, it actively encourages you to get out and about, made easy via the opulent ground-floor plaza, which snakes you straight into Old Town or to the tranquil Golden Cape Forest Park. The service Impeccable but unfussy. Staff are mostly local, highly trained, and genuinely proud to work there. Expect smiles, not stiffness. Even the breakfast staff keep the hotel's subversive edge alive, with a uniform that combines chic service suits with Adidas sneakers. The concierge team can book truffle hunts, vineyard tastings, or boat charters with just a few hours' notice. Golf carts will whisk you to town or to the private Mulini Beach Club, a short drive away. For those looking for something truly special, the concierge can also arrange hot air balloon rides over the Istrian countryside through trusted local providers—a breathtaking way to experience the region from above. When it comes to hotels, you can measure the quality by how much they charge you to rent a bicycle—at the Grand Park, they are free (alas, e-bikes do have a surcharge). Be sure to pack a picnic and head to the cool shade of the forest park. For families Very family-friendly, without compromising the hotel's grown-up feel. The pools are staggered across levels (some adults-only), and there are connecting rooms and kid-friendly food. The nearby Mulini Beach is calm and safe for little ones, and the concierge can organize babysitting if needed. Eco effort The hotel is Green Key certified, uses solar panels, was built with local materials, and focuses on regional and seasonal food in its kitchens. It also partners with Istrian producers and marine conservation initiatives—ask the front desk to point you to the sustainability display in the lobby. Accessibility With ramps and wide walkways throughout, the hotel meets accessibility standards. Elevators connect every floor, and several rooms are fully adapted with barrier-free showers and accessible outdoor terraces. The open-plan nature of the rooms means they're easier to navigate than most, as are the doors—broad and light enough for easy use. Anything left to mention? Set an early alarm and creep up to the infinity pool for a sunrise swim while all the other guests rest or have breakfast. It's blissfully empty, and you'll get the Adriatic all to yourself.
Times
30-06-2025
- Times
The charming Croatian town with an Italian touch
Midway along the Istrian coast of Croatia, the exquisitely photogenic old town of Rovinj juts out into the Adriatic, its weathered houses cascading down to the water's edge. Part of the Republic of Venice for centuries, it remains Croatia's most Italianate of cities. Its easily walkable old town is a maze of cobbled streets and alleys, Venetian palazzos and pastel-coloured façades, punctuated by views of the shimmering blue sea. It's a paradise for foodies, with local produce including fantastic seafood, exquisite truffles and superlative olive oil; and there's no shortage of superb places to eat and drink, from small taverns to Michelin-starred high fliers. Surrounded by a scattering of small islands, flanked by beaches and on the doorstep of Croatia's most prestigious wine region, Rovinj is ideal for a culture-packed weekend, a romantic getaway or a deep dive into Croatian gastronomy. • Morning Explore the old town• Eat at Giannino• Afternoon Dobravac Winery• Drink at Augusto Coffee Shop• Evening House of Pelinkovac• Eat at Agli Amici • Morning Hit the beach• Eat at Snack Bar Rio• Afternoon Batana Eco-Museum• Drink at Aperitiv Bar Circolo• Evening Sunset views• Eat at El Bugadur • Start in the small, compact old town, which was originally an island but was linked to the mainland in the 18th century. From the café-lined main square (Trg Marsala Tita), wander uphill along Ulica Sv Kriza to the imposing baroque Church of St Euphemia, which occupies a broad terrace at the top of the hill and holds the tomb of this early 4th-century saint and martyr. Climb the 17th-century bell tower, Rovinj's most visible landmark, modelled on St Mark's in Venice. Expect steep wooden steps at the top but phenomenal views in all directions; on a clear day you can catch a glimpse of the Alps (£4). Stroll down Ulica Vladimira Svalbe, where narrow alleys lead straight down to the water's edge. Aim to get a little lost, to stumble over small craft shops and cafés, hidden squares and old stone doorways; the old town is tiny and it won't be long before you find your bearings again. • Head to Villa Dobravac, a multi-award-winning, family-run winery 15 minutes' walk from the old town, for an introduction to Istrian wine. Their nearby vineyards are planted mainly with local grape varieties malvazija and teran, and they also produce their own olive oil and have a few guest rooms. You'll find up to seven of their wines available for tasting, including Sonata, a refreshingly crisp malvazija; Simfonia, a knockout orange wine, also made from malvazija; and Fuga, a brooding deep red teran monster (tastings from £25; Pelinkovac is a bitter herbal liqueur that is popular in Croatia and made from wormwood — think along the lines of Italian amaro and you're on the right track. The House of Pelinkovac is run by Darna, a small, family-owned distillery opened in 1925, and combines a shop with informative displays and the opportunity to try the drink itself (free; Follow the waterfront around the harbour past the Grand Park Hotel to reach Mulini beach, its arc of fine shingle flanked by chic beach bars serving Aperol to Rovinj's beautiful people. Walk just a little further to discover a succession of rocky coves and quiet beaches along Punta Corrente, secluded and overhung with conifers, with views stretching back past the island of St Catherine.• This small museum on the waterfront shines a light on the batana — a traditional wooden fishing boat with a single sail or which is propelled by a standing oarsman. The batana has been used in Rovinj for centuries, its flat-bottomed hull allowing it to be manoeuvred in shallow, rocky waters. You can see some of them moored just outside the museum alongside Mali Mol, or Little Pier (entry from £4; Afterwards, take a boat ride on a batana from Mali Mol, accompanied by stories of local folklore and songs (one-hour ride, £42 for two people; Take an evening stroll along the waterfront, which is the best spot for sunset views across the boats moored in the harbour. If you fancy stopping somewhere, Konoba Kantinon is a good choice — a traditional restaurant with friendly staff housed in a former wine cellar. Order a platter of Istrian prsut (prosciutto) and a couple of glasses of teran (tapas from £8; The fisherman's son Corrado Pellizzer opened his landmark restaurant back in 1972 and it's still a local favourite, hidden away in a quiet backstreet. Inside there's a contemporary feel, with an impressive wall covered in wine bottles. Seafood takes centre stage, with the ever-changing menu dictated by the morning's catch, supplied by three local fishermen. Highlights might include a trio of scallop, sea bass and cuttlefish carpaccio, tagliatelle alla marinara, or melt-in-your-mouth tempura oysters. Don't miss the signature carob cake dessert (mains from £15; • This overlooked Croatian city is the perfect relaxed weekend break Hidden away on a narrow alley off Carera Ulica, this is a great little café, with a few shady tables outside, mouthwatering cakes, plant-based milks and perfect coffee. Service is relaxed and friendly, and the hip interior has an industrial edge, with rough walls and upcycled wood (drinks from £2.50; @augustocoffeeshop). Croatia's only two-Michelin-starred restaurant (it was awarded its first star within just three months of opening in 2022), Agli Amici is the sister establishment of the phenomenal restaurant of the same name in Udine, Italy, drawing upon five generations of hospitality in the Scarello family. Run by the Italian chef Emanuele Scarello, Rovinj's Agli Amici has two seasonal menus — one dedicated to the sea (Rovinj) and the other to the land (Istria). Expect the likes of Istrian langoustine with buzara sauce, raw scampi and grilled peas and cuttlefish in gold leaf with citrus and pepper. The affable Scarello wanders the floor, chatting to guests between courses. Bookings open 60 days in advance (seven-course tasting menu £177, wine pairing £80; • 13 of the best places to visit in Croatia This is the best place to eat on the waterfront alongside the harbour. It has consistently good food, but standout dishes include octopus salad, and pljukanci (traditional Istrian pasta) with scampi. Nab a seat on the enclosed terrace, a remnant of the bar that stood here in the 1960s (whence the name), which gets you harbourside vibes without the seagulls — although there are tables right by the water's edge as well (mains from £15; On a raised terrace above Trg Campitelli, this classy bar serves imaginative and creative seasonal cocktails such as the summery Bionda — tequila, malvazija, apple purée, fresh lime juice and Pernod. The terrace is particularly nice in the evening, as it catches a bit of a breeze; inside there's a saloon-like feel with a big wooden bar (cocktails from £8; This lovely old-town restaurant spotlights seasonal ingredients, such as in a dish of linguine with wild asparagus. Salted cod pâté with generous truffle shavings may be followed by roasted octopus on sautéed Mediterranean vegetables, plus there's excellent natural wine. Grab a table outside, above the rocky shore, where the sea is illuminated at dusk by underwater lights. (mains from £15; • 15 of the best beaches in Croatia This article contains affiliate links that can earn us revenue Waterside luxury and viewsThe Grand Park is a fabulous five-star hotel set along the waterfront, facing the old town with the slopes of a lush forest park behind. Supremely stylish and modern, it exudes a feeling of understated luxury, its spacious rooms decorated in earthy tones, with clean lines and natural materials, and a sea of Mediterranean plants surrounding the balconies. Along with upscale dining at the Michelin-listed Cap Aureo, there's an elegant cocktail bar, a spa and wellness centre and an infinity pool on the fifth-floor terrace (B&B doubles from £185; Old town stay A lovely boutique hotel, housed in a 17th-century bishop's palace in the heart of the old town. Surprisingly homely, it has 23 tastefully furnished rooms, excellent breakfasts, wrought-iron beds, lots of exposed stone and a wonderful hidden garden — perfect for a coffee or an evening drink (B&B doubles from £105; Heritage hotel Converted from three houses dating back to the 1920s, this beautiful boutique hotel on the eastern edge of town has 12 rooms, exposed wooden beams, parquet flooring and handmade Venetian terrazzo, as well as a lounge bar and wine cellar housed within a former water cistern (B&B doubles from £105; Pula Airport is 25 miles from Rovinj and easyJet has direct flights from the UK ( From the airport, it's a 35-minute drive to Rovinj (£50 taxi for up to three people; Alternatively a shuttle bus runs into Pula's town centre (£5) from where it's 45 minutes to Rovinj by bus (£6.50; There's also a fast catamaran service between Venice and Rovinj in the summer (£76; Rovinj's largely pedestrianised old town is small and easy to get around on foot. It's easy to explore the rest of Istria from Rovinj. Porec, with its Unesco-listed Byzantine mosaics, is 22 miles away, the hugely impressive Roman amphitheatre in Pula is the same distance, or head inland for medieval hill towns including Motovun and Groznjan. The Limski kanal, a drowned river valley and nature reserve, is less than five miles away. Rudolf Abraham was a guest of the Croatian National Tourist Board ( Istria Tourist Board ( and Maistra (
Condé Nast Traveler
26-06-2025
- Condé Nast Traveler
The Best Airbnbs in Croatia From Traditional Farmhouses to Modern Villas
Croatia's azure waters and scattering of ancient towns have earned it a spot in many travelers' dreams, with tourist numbers growing steadily for over a decade. But for those looking to steal away from the madding crowds, a strong homestay scene has been quietly competing with the country's top hotels. A slew of stylish modern villas now pepper the coastal towns while, further inland, traditional cobbled farmhouses have been transformed into beautiful modern guest homes, replete with infinity pools and smart outdoor kitchens. Others pay homage to their roots, offering cheese-making workshops and horse riding lessons in the Istrian countryside. But something that binds all of our favorites is the promise of blissful peace and beautiful vistas to enjoy from every angle. Below, the best Airbnbs in Croatia to book in 2025. We've vetted these listings based on Superhost or Guest Favorite status, ratings, amenities, location, previous guest reviews, and decor.
