Latest news with #IvanVuković
Forbes
10-07-2025
- Forbes
Where To Eat And Drink In Sarajevo, According To Bosnia's Top Guide
Sarajevo. If you haven't visited Sarajevo, Bosnia, it should be on your list. Sarajevo is a gorgeous city where you can walk from Ottoman bazaars to Austro-Hungarian boulevards in minutes, each telling a different chapter of this resilient city's incredible story. The food scene is epic, with centuries of culinary fusion creating flavors you won't find anywhere else, while the authentic café culture invites you to slow down and savor real conversations over perfect Bosnian coffee. My friend Ivan Vuković, arguably the best tour guide in Dubrovnik, connected me to Meet Bosnia Tours and a few days later, I hopped in the car with Adnan Čengić, from tour company, who graciously drove me 4 hours and some change from Dubrovnik to Sarajevo, so I could explore the city. When tourism in Sarajevo began to flourish in 2011, Edin Ogrešević (now CEO of Meet Bosnia Tours) was pursuing his studies at the Faculty of Economics, University of Sarajevo. Simultaneously, he worked as a hotel receptionist at an establishment that offered Sarajevo city tours guided by friends and relatives of the owner. "One day, a guide couldn't make it, and they asked me to step in," Ogrešević recalls. "I had no formal training, and my English wasn't perfect, but I was told to simply share what I knew about the landmarks and Siege of Sarajevo." This impromptu beginning would prove to be future of Meet Bosnia Tours—what travelers now recognize as some of the best guided experiences in the Balkans with the coolest, most informative, most standout people who work for the company. Tours to bookmark for your visit Ogrešević's personal favorite is the Sarajevo walking tour (which is free!). It covers nearly 600 years of history in just two kilometers. "You'll see Ottoman mosques from the 16th century and Austro-Hungarian architecture from the late 19th and early 20th centuries—side by side in the Old Town," he says, highlighting the unique architectural tapestry that makes Sarajevo so visually striking. Olympic bobsled track on Mount Trebević. One of Meet Bosnia's most popular offerings is the Fall of Yugoslavia tour and I'll happily rave that this is one of the most interesting and educational tours I've ever been on. "This is not just a war-focused tour; it's an educational deep dive into the recent past and the geography of Sarajevo," Ogrešević says. The comprehensive experience includes visits to Yellow Fortress for panoramic views, the Tunnel of Hope Museum (the city's most visited museum), and the abandoned Olympic bobsled track on Mount Trebević. You can also book private Sarajevo tours, Jewish heritage walking tours, and Sarajevo to Dubrovnik transfer tours if you're looking to explore several places in the Balkans. What (and where) to eat and drink in Sarajevo After exploring the city's fascinating history, you'll want to dive into its incredible food scene. Sarajevo's culinary landscape is where centuries of Ottoman influence meets authentic Balkan soul—and the results are absolutely delicious. Ćevapi at Nune. The star of the show: Ćevapi You can't leave Sarajevo without trying ćevapi, the city's most beloved dish. These small grilled sausages made from minced beef or beef-lamb mix are served with fluffy lepina bread, raw onions, and optionally kajmak (a rich, creamy spread that's basically Bosnian magic in dairy form). There's ongoing debate about the best ćevapi in Sarajevo, but Ćevabdžinica Nune gets Ogrešević's vote. "I like the hustle and bustle of Old town but when eating, I prefer to eat in quiet places. If you want to eat in peace, go to restaurant Nune," he says. Located halfway between Eternal flame and Cathedral of Sacred Heart in a peaceful side alley, this spot is one of the oldest ćevapi restaurants in Sarajevo. 'Nune is one of the oldest ćevapi restaurants in Sarajevo and the ćevapi are of superb quality,' he says. 'And the recipe used for making them is also used in a franchise called Bosnian House, which has seven restaurants in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.' Bosnian pie. Bosnian Pies "In other countries they call it 'burek' but in Bosnia and Herzegovina, the word 'burek' only means filo pie, arranged in lines or spirally, stuffed with minced beef. Every other flavor in Bosnia has it's own name," Ogrešević explains. There's sirnica(cheese), krompiruša (potato), zeljanica (spinach), and the legendary meat burek in which that Ogrešević notes Turkish tourists saying it's better than what they find in Turkey. Try them at Buregdžinica Bosna, named after the local basketball club who became the first team from Yugoslavia to become European basketball champion (1979). Ogrešević prefers the location next to City market over the busier Bravadžiluk street location—it's just a two-minute walk from the Sarajevo Cathedral. Whatever you do in Bosnia, never say 'Burek with cheese'. 'People are allergic to that phrase," he says. Other Local favorites Don't miss these local favorites: klepe (beef dumplings), sarma (stuffed cabbage), punjene paprike (stuffed peppers), and Bosanski lonac (Bosnian stew). 'Each dish tells a story of the city's rich culinary heritage,' says Ogrešević. Aščinica ASDŽ is the place to go if you want to try some traditional dishes which are not ćevapi or pies. It boasts 60 different meals on a menu, including stuffed paprikas, mushrooms and all kinds of stews. Brunch restaurant in Sarajevo. For Something Modern "Smoking in restaurants and cafes was officially banned in Bosnia in 2024 but many things exist here on paper but not in reality," says Ogrešević. 'However, in Brunch restaurant, they really do." It's in Old Town and the menu is chock full of delicious breakfast and brunch-worthy items like sweet and savory croissants, egg dishes, and a standout selection of coffee drinks. They even have one of my favorite coffee drinks, a version of the Italian shakerato, which is perfect to beat the summer heat. Caffe Divan. Coffee Culture and Local Hangouts Cafe Divan is the best place in town to try Bosnian coffee. 'It's located in a garden of Morića han, an object that used to be a traveler's inn / hotel during the Ottoman period," says Ogrešević. You can also get traditional Turkish cakes such as baklava, hurmašica or kadaif. For brews, check out Sarajevo Brewery. It was founded during the Ottoman period (1864) and it was the first beer factory ever opened in the Empire and boasts a beautiful interior which has a 19th century vibe. For scenic views, try Caffe Behut (Ogrešević notes it's a solid spot for relaxing, people watching, or reading a book); Caffe Kamarija for sunset coffee with beautiful views of Old town; or Caffe Hecco Deluxe on the ninth floor of a tallest building in Old town with standout views. Traditional Bosnian dinner. A local dining experience For the most authentic taste, book a traditional Bosnian dinner with a local family. Even better? "Meet Bosnia offers this experience for everyone interested how to make pies, stews and several types of traditional sweets. Mastermind behind this idea is Belma Ogrešević, very kind and welcoming lady with more than 40 years of cooking both in restaurants and for her large family." Once you fall in love with Sarajevo, no fret, Meet Bosnia offers multi-day tours througout the country, and even around the Balkans.
Forbes
31-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
A Daytripper's Guide: Where To Eat And Drink In OId Town Dubrovnik
Old Town, Dubrovnik. Ivan Vuković Dubrovnik's Old Town isn't just a living postcard of medieval limestone streets and terracotta rooftops with uninterrupted Adriatic views—it's a UNESCO World Heritage site with roots stretching back to the 7th century. Its iconic city walls, which have protected this marble paradise for over 500 years, have always been a magnet for travelers. But since Game of Thrones premiered in 2011—casting Dubrovnik as the fictional King's Landing—the city has experienced a dramatic surge in visitors. With all that beauty and history comes the crowds, especially during cruise ship season, when daytrippers pour through the city gates like extras from a Renaissance fair. Is it even possible to make the most of a day in Dubrovnik's Old Town and avoid rookie mistakes? I turned to my favorite local guide, Ivan Vuković, whose Game of Thrones tours (no dragons, but plenty of wit) and off-the-beaten-path excursions have earned him cult status among travelers seeking the real, unfiltered Dubrovnik. A view of Old Town, Dubrovnik. Ivan Vuković Whatever you do, respect the 'Walk of Shame' steps, which have been around centuries longer than the show. Their real name is the Jesuit Stairs, inspired by Rome's iconic Spanish Steps—a true 18th-century Baroque masterpiece. Leading up to the grand Church of St. Ignatius, they're one of the city's most dramatic architectural gems. Those iconic steps—immortalized by Cersei's infamous stroll—are newly polished for summer, and I was mortified to learn that people actually strip down for photos here. 'Do not get naked on that infamous walk of shame,' Vuković says. 'And please, do not scream 'shame'; we all have PTSD from it in Dubrovnik.' Crowds and heat can be daunting in peak summer. 'Use Buža and Ploče gates to dodge the cruise ship hordes who get dropped off at Pile gate,' Ivan advises. 'We built tiny gates as nobody had a clue that tourism was gonna be a big thing.' And don't skip a walk around the city walls—a 1.2-mile stretch circling the Old Town. 'Finish your daytripping with a walk around the walls,' says Vuković. 'Best time? Late afternoon. Get your camera ready!' Pro tip: If you want to see Dubrovnik through a local's eyes (and learn more about those infamous steps), book a Game of Thrones tour with Vuković. He offers a variety of tours if GOT isn't your speed. Now that you know how to be a savvy daytripper, here's where to eat and drink inside the city walls even if it's for a few hours only. Peka at Local. Local If you want to experience Dubrovnik like a local, book a reservation at Local—the new outpost of Marija and Zlatko Papak's wildly successful Eat With Locals experience, right in Old Town. It's the first-ever spot where travelers can get a slice of peka—a traditional Dalmatian dish where meat, potatoes, and veggies are slow-cooked under a bell-shaped dome covered in hot coals, resulting in tender, smoky, melt-in-your-mouth perfection. While peka is the star, you'll also find the most perfect charcuterie and cheese spread (all local, of course), Marija's homemade bread, fresh salad, and apple strudel. And yes, even inside the city walls, the Papaks pour local wine and homemade grappa like old friends welcoming you home and you'll always walk away with strangers-turned-new friends. Chilly prawns at Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant. Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant Nestled atop a 16th-century building, this spot remains the only rooftop restaurant in Old Town and the 360 views are incredible . It's a climb up five flights to a sleek, elegant rooftop where every bite feels like a mini celebration. The menu blends Mediterranean flavors with modern gastronomy. My personal highlights are chilly prawns served with marinated red cabbage, butternut squash purée, and pickled baby beetroot and the chef's version of surf n' turf—a zucchini roll filled with lobster salad, filet mignon, roasted cauliflower cream, and Bordelaise sauce. And whatever ice cream creation is, order without hesitation. Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant. Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant Bonus: The restaurant is part of a gorgeous 4-star luxury hotel, Hotel Stari Grad, spread across two historic Old Town buildings, complete with Icona spa (a true hidden oasis with standout services) and a cocktail bar where the bartender nails the perfect Americano. Trust me, you'll want to linger. Azur is praised for innovative fusion dishes like pulled pork tacos and seared tuna, balancing bold flavors with fresh Adriatic ingredients and Asian influences—and perfect if you're seeking something off the beaten path from traditional Croatian fare. 'It's owned by a great local chef, Darko Perojević,' says Vuković. It's situated next door to the iconic Bard Buža bar. Vuković notes that Bard Buža bar is still more local than the other Buža bar, where tourists jump off the cliffs. 'It can be spicy and you will get your hands dirty.' It's wise to order the salmon pillows and the CroAsian seafood Laksa. For the best gelato in town, Peppino's is a must. Creamy, artisanal gelato made daily with fresh ingredients, offering both classic and inventive flavors to cool you down after a day in the sun. Flavors range from traditional pistachio and stracciatella to creative combinations featuring local Croatian ingredients. Forty Four. Forty Four Owned by NBA player Bojan Bogdanović (jersey number 44, hence the name) and Damir Bogdanović, Forty Four is celebrated for its exquisite seafood offerings—be sure to order whatever crudo is featured on the menu and the lobster pasta if it's available. The restaurant masterfully combines elevated, modern seafood and pasta dishes and traditional Croatian dishes done right. The wine list is also noteworthy and I fell hard for the Crvik Blasius Malvasija Dubrovačka—an organe wine that pairs perfectly with literally any dish on the menu. Bonus: There's also a hotel attached, Guesthouse Forty Four, and the duo are behind Villa 44—a gorgeous villa in Old Town, in the center of Stradun. Black risotto at Konoba Pupo. Ivan Vuković This wonderland is a combination of family recipes, fisherman's old-style cooking, and local ingredients. Go for the Šporki Makaruli ('dirty macaroni')—a traditional Dubrovnik pasta with a hearty, meaty ragù sauce made with wine and plenty of onions. Konoba Pupo is a hidden gem for authentic Dalmatian flavors, particularly praised for its rich black risotto (made with cuttlefish ink) and hearty pasta dishes. Owner Viktor Kužnin is often around and can pick out the best bottle of Dingač wine (and might even sit down and join you for a glass or three!). Bonus: Just across the way, the team has opened a gorgeous pastry shop with a stellar menu of sweets and plenty of great wine. Don't miss a slice of the typical Ston cake—a pastry where layers of penne pasta are mixed with nuts and sweet cream, named for the nearby town famous for its medieval walls and salt. D'Vino Wine Bar. D'Vino Wine Bar D'Vino is a top spot for wine lovers wanting to explore Croatia's diverse varietals, paired with artisanal cheeses and charcuterie. The knowledgeable staff guides guests through Croatia's unique wine regions, from full-bodied reds of the Pelješac Peninsula to crisp whites from Istria. 'The One With da Boss' tasting is the best, letting you sample rare and small-producer bottles from the owner's archive. The laid-back atmosphere is perfect for people-watching along the bustling Old Town streets, whether you need that essential morning espresso or want to unwind with a cold Croatian beer after exploring the medieval walls. The best part? It's across from D'Vino, so if your group is split between beer and wine, you can happily collide on the patio with your drink of choice. Holy Burek in Dubrovnik's Old Town. Holy Burek This beloved bakery serves up savory pastries that are crispy outside, rich and melty inside. During peak season, thousands of bureks—a flaky Balkan pastry filled with cheese, meat, or spinach—are made daily. Go for whatever's fresh out of the oven and wash it down with ayran, a refreshing yogurt-based drink. It's a traditional sidekick to balance the buttery goodness. 'It's perfect for people watching, a great wine selection, and live music every night,' says Vuković. This café dates back to 1927 and occupies the spot of the former Manon Café, a legendary Dubrovnik gathering place between the world wars. 'It reminds me of my childhood, still tucked in Antuninska street, one of many Old Town side streets,' says Vuković. 'We skipped classes and went there—pssst, do not tell my mum. Lovely simple sandwiches with homemade bread, cheese from oil, and prosciutto.' For a genuine taste of local life away from the tourist crowds, this is a must.
