3 days ago
Costa Smeralda Guide: Where To Stay, Eat And What To Do
Breathe in the salt-tinged air of Porto Cervo, the dazzling jewel of Northern Sardinia's Costa Smeralda, where emerald seas kiss buttery-white beaches under skies so blue they could be lifted straight from a painting. This isn't just paradise; it's the playground of billionaires, a magnet for yachts prowling the Tyrrhenian Sea, and a storied haunt for celebrities seeking exclusive leisure wrapped in Mediterranean glamour.
Tasked by Prince Karim Aga Khan IV in the 1960s to design and develop Porto Cervo and the Costa Smeralda, Jacques Couelle and Michele Busiri Vici are among the architects credited with the transformation of Porto Cervo as it is known and loved today. Here, luxury whispers, rather than shouts — it's seamlessly woven into the natural contours of the rugged coastline and lush pine forests, ensuring every sun-dappled terrace and hidden cove feels like your own secret vista.
Oliver Fly
Walking through its streets, you sense the refined legacy of its founders: spaces crafted with elegance and restraint, setting the stage for a style that's effortlessly chic. No wonder the world's most discerning jet-setters flock here each summer to bask in its exclusive vibe and impeccable taste.
Hotel Pitrizza
If Porto Cervo is a treasure chest, then Hotel Pitrizza is its rarest gem. Nestled within secluded Mediterranean gardens just steps from the crystalline sea, this 66-room hotel embodies Sardinia's timeless elegance. With a reputation for being the most luxurious hideaway on Costa Smeralda, it offers guests refined privacy — think handwoven furnishings, terrace views that spill into the shimmering bay, and suites infused with Sardinian warmth and light.
Hotel Pitrizza
Hotels are in the business of perfectly the finer details, and there are some that excel in their practice, and others that don't. Pitrizza belongs to the former; it is a slither of heaven. Celebrity whispers hint at regular visits from A-listers like George Clooney and Kate Middleton, drawn not just by Pitrizza's exquisite service but its discreet exclusivity that's impossible to replicate elsewhere. The hotel's private beach, framed by granite cliffs, is the perfect backdrop for impromptu brunches or evening aperitivos under a canvas of stars. It's not hard to see why there are families who have holidayed at Pitrizza for 40 years, every year requesting the same villa, only to be warmly welcomed by the 200 staff that work at the resort. The m aître d' at the hotel's restaurant, a dinner jacket-wearing Naples native named Peppino, has worked at the hotel for over 40 years. He is one of the most charming men you could ever hope to be served by, let alone meet.
For anybody lucky enough to call Pitrizza home, whether for 40 years or just a matter of nights, you will not struggle to see for yourself how the hotel is the very embodiment in every possible way of la dolce vita , Sardinian style.
FIND OUT MORE HERE Where to eat
Matsuhisa at Cala di Volpe
For those in the know, Porto Cervo's culinary scene hit a new apex when Chef Nobuyuki 'Nobu' Matsuhisa launched his seasonal residency at Cala di Volpe. This is not just Nobu as you know it — it's Matsuhisa at Cala di Volpe , perched over Porto Cervo's most glamorous bay, where yachts glint in the dusk and sunset toasts are a given. Housed in the hotel's iconic Bar Pontile and designed for maximum Mediterranean drama, it's a scene that attracts everyone from megawatt celebrities to discerning global tastemakers.
Marriott
Chef Nobu's groundbreaking culinary style — a seamless blend of Japanese precision and bold Peruvian influences — is unsurprisingly perfectly at home at Cala di Volpe. Expect delicate sashimi, the legendary black cod with miso (a must-order), and playful 'Matsuhisa Bites' like padron peppers with miso and lobster tacos, all plated with artistic bravado as the sea shimmers below. The open-air setting makes every meal feel like a private event, and if you have any idea what's good for you, wash whatever you order down with a Peach Bellini (which is made using fresh white peach purée made in-house every single day).
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Ristorante Gianni Pedrinelli
Tucked just 500 metres from the sea in the Piccolo Pevero area, Ristorante Gianni Pedrinelli is a Porto Cervo institution — one that has been drawing the Costa Smeralda's effortlessly chic crowd for nearly two decades. Housed in what was once a private home, the restaurant channels a neo-classical ease with its airy interiors, checkerboard stone floors, antiques, and sweeping views: think white-draped tables beneath raftered ceilings, or sunset-lit dinners on the elegant terrace.
Still operated by the Pedrinelli siblings — Gianni and Renato helming the floor with Clara as head chef — the focus is firmly on authentic Northern Italian and Sardinian cuisine, with a proud commitment to local produce.
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Il Pescatore
The soul of Porto Cervo's waterfront dining, Il Pescatore (now known as Quattro Passi al Pescatore) is an icon that has defined Costa Smeralda's social scene since the 1960s. Just inches above the azure water, its sun-drenched stone terrace delivers the Porto Cervo panorama: moored super yachts glinting in the background, and a gentle Mediterranean breeze that makes every meal feel cinematic.
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What to do
Spiaggia Rosa
Located on the tiny Budelli Island in the La Maddalena Archipelago, just off the northern coast, Spiaggia Rosa a beach like no other: the sand glows with ethereal pink hues thanks to crushed shells, coral fragments, and microscopic marine organisms that live in the calcareous shells of tiny marine creatures.
San Pantaleo
This artsy village is famed for its bohemian spirit, lively markets, and stazzi (traditional Sardinian farmhouses). Browse local crafts, then hike the granite hills for panoramic sea views and a sun-bleached, cinematic serenity.
Liscia Ruja
The longest beach on the Costa Smeralda, Liscia Ruja boasts the kind of sugar-white sand and crystal-clear water that dreams are made of. It's the picture-perfect spot for a sunset dip.
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Naomi May is a seasoned culture journalist and editor with over ten years' worth of experience in shaping stories and building digital communities. After graduating with a First Class Honours from City University's prestigious Journalism course, Naomi joined the Evening Standard, where she worked across both the newspaper and website. She is now the Digital Editor at ELLE Magazine and has written features for the likes of The Guardian, Vogue, Vice and Refinery29, among many others. Naomi is also the host of the ELLE Collective book club.
