2 days ago
The Manchester college creating luxury watchmakers of the future
You've bought the mechanical watch you've had your eye on for a long time and take pleasure in wearing it. But eventually, especially if you strap it on daily, it might need a repair. At some future point it will also require a service to ensure it continues to function well. Think of it like this, says Jon Weston, the managing director of the Midlands-based Rudell the Jewellers, 'you've got an engine in a car running 24 hours a day for a period of time, how long could it last? While some new watches will run for ten years before needing a service, it's something that needs to be done over time. And someone experienced has to carry out the work.'
You wouldn't want it to take months to repair your treasured timepiece. But in some cases it does. One of the reasons for the wait is because there's a worrying shortage of qualified watchmakers in the UK — and, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, it's a worldwide problem. Positive changes in the watch world are driving this, from the unprecedented demand for luxury watches over the pandemic and since — which have often led to waiting lists and retailers displaying 'exhibition only' examples — to the public's increasingly enthusiastic embrace of vintage and pre-owned pieces, propelling businesses to seek more skilled technicians. Globally, the UK is a significant market, Weston says. 'For most luxury watch brands, it's in the top four. But if you sell twice as many watches that means you have twice as many for after sales servicing.' Also adding to staff shortages is the increasing number of watchmakers on the cusp of retirement.
Helping to plug that gap is the British School of Watchmaking, the only school in the country to offer courses by the Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program (WOSTEP), the industry gold standard accreditation for luxury brands and retailers. Gordon Bryan co-founded the Greater Manchester-based school in 2004. A trained watch and clock maker, he served an apprenticeship at Garrard and has worked with Asprey, Cartier, Breitling and Omega. While working at Signet Jewelers he was looking to employ watchmakers for the firm's branches. 'I was bench testing and all of them were unsuccessful,' he recalls. 'I moaned about it to a friend who said, why don't you do something about it? So I did.' It was a long haul. 'I'd studied at WOSTEP and they said they'd support us while the watch brands stepped up financial support, for machines and premises. It's important we give students the best equipment and facilities and keep the equipment up to date.'
'It had to be right,' Bryan says. 'We are nothing without the tutors, and it takes years to find them. Of course, they need to know the technical work but must have that inspirational factor. Now we have two tutors who have been students here, and the wheel has turned full circle.' The school turns out eight students annually, 16 every other year from a two-year course. It's a slow but steady roll out and 2021 saw the 100th graduate. The school offers two WOSTEP courses. There's a one-year, Service Watchmaker Course that prepares students for after sales services with eight places. Then there's the two-year Watchmaker Course which combines the syllabus with additional micromechanics training in which students learn how to create watchmaking components. A third industry-recognised course was introduced last year, WOSTEP's three-week programme teaching different polishing techniques.
It's more a workplace than college, with 37.5-hour weeks and four weeks' holidays. Students are any age, and have ranged from 18 to 54. 'We've had very successful computer programmers, doctors, vets, joining the courses. More women are coming, and there's often a 50:50 split. At the moment there are two women with six men on the one-year course and all are sponsored by brands or retailers. I don't think we've had a student leave without a job' says Weston, who is one of the school's six trustees. 'It's not good enough to be taught by a colleague in the workplace. The WOSTEP qualification is internationally respected by the watch brands. It gives credibility to the student and what they've achieved.'
The school has 35 well-known trade backers. 'Anyone who's anyone in the industry is a supporter,' Weston says. 'We were granted charity status in 2019 and we're providing a public service,' Bryan adds. 'The tutors are the only ones paid. It makes it so worthwhile to see the students collect their certificates at graduation with their families.'
Two watches created by students on courses have been COSC-certified, surpassing tough standards set by the Swiss. 'We have to remember a lot of the important inventions in horology were made in Britain, there's so much history here,' Weston observes. 'It's so good now to be back producing quality watchmakers. One day, one of them might do something that is of a George Daniels [the legendary British horologist] level — or the ingenuity of [the contemporary British watchmaker] Roger Smith — so we'll be back up there.' And in the meantime, your watch will be back faster from a servicing.
