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In Sicily, I keep a promise I made to myself decades ago
In Sicily, I keep a promise I made to myself decades ago

Irish Times

time6 days ago

  • Irish Times

In Sicily, I keep a promise I made to myself decades ago

Known as the 'lighthouse of the Mediterranean', the island of Stromboli is indifferent to the lapping silvers, blues and golds of Sicily 's Tyrrhenian Sea. Aeolus, God of the Winds, hung out in these parts once, and played with the lives of mariners. Much later Stromboli's fiery volcanic crater, one of four active volcanoes in Italy, featured in Jules Verne's 19th century novel A Journey to the Centre of the Earth. At the beginning of April, I visited Sicily. And in among the old and new wonders of that deeply storied island, I finally got to experience Stromboli's lava slopes first-hand on a trip I had promised myself decades ago. Sicily is probably the most beloved of all the Mediterranean islands. The ancient Greeks loved it and settled there. The Romans absorbed it and its Greek population as the Republic's first colony. Arabs made it their home, followed by the Normans and the Spanish, until it finally voted to join a unifying Italy in 1860. Sicily is, first and foremost, an overwhelming set of sensory experiences – of light and colour and form, taste and smell, noise and silence. However, the undoubted charms of its capital city, Palermo, are lost on my travel companion and myself for most of our first day there. An ungodly hour Ryanair flight from Dublin, a bad lunchtime food decision, death-defying zebra crossings, faded facades and stained sidewalks do nothing for tired eyes and imaginations. READ MORE That said, a €35 pre-booked evening Food Walking Tour saves the day. At about 5.30pm, our excellent but heavily accented Sicilian guide leads our little multinational group into a warren of warmly lit and delightfully food-scented piazzas and alleyways. He introduces us to Arancine (stuffed rice balls), Panelle (chickpea fritters), Sfincione (a fluffy bread slice topped with tomato, oregano and cheese), and other delicacies, more than enough for an evening meal. This delicious street food we wash down with glasses of Sicilian wine. We opt to decline, however, the offer of a Sicilian favourite, Pani Ca Meusa, better known in the English-speaking world as spleen sandwiches. This highly sociable food tour through the old city is a must-do evening attraction, giving a welcome and engaging break from the edginess of the main city thoroughfares, an opportunity to relax, to meet other fellow travellers and to listen to history and tales of scandal and fun from all the ages of the city. The next day we leave bustling Palermo as it prepares for the upcoming celebration of Santa Settimana (Holy Week), and take the train to Agrigento and a taxi to the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Akragas. A very evocative site, we spend hours wandering and reflecting among its scarred and broken columns, once-monumental stone edifices and now-empty early Christian burial niches. Palermo then beckons once more, to see and feel it through rested eyes and imaginations. And what better way than the red hop on/hop off bus? That tour brings us around and by the majestic Cathedral of Palermo, the serene English Garden, the great Palazzos and Villas of well-established elites, castles, theatres and markets. Our high perch allows us to look over walls and peruse tiny, shaded spaces, and at the same time to take note of the local promontory of Monte Pellegrino, loved by Goethe during his 18th century stay in Palermo. A tough afternoon hike up Pellegrino to the chapel of Santa Rosalia, inserted into the cave of an old hermitage just below the summit, is well worth the effort, as are the wonderful nearby viewing points over the city and the Bay of Palermo. Cefalu, about two hours east of Palermo, is a charming contrast the next day to the sometimes nervy oppressiveness of Palermo. This is a very attractive and somewhat more upmarket beach front settlement of narrow alleyways, sea sounds, sunny seafront walkways and lots of lovely restaurants, many perched over the rocky broken shore. We hang out and wander the town and shore. However, our enthusiasm to take on the well frequented path up the spectacular Rocca di Cefalu is quashed by the sight of a body being stretchered past us, an experience that darkens an otherwise lovely sunset meal and wine. Monte Pellegrino and Palermo Cefalu, about two hours east of Palermo The last three days are to be the highlight, a visit to Stromboli and the Aeolian Islands. We take the train to Milazzo, and the next day embark on an €85, 10-hour cruise to the two most easterly of the islands, posh Panarea and brooding Stromboli. The real, advertised attraction being a promise to anchor offshore and be treated to a fiery late evening erupting Stromboli. Our first stopover, Panarea, is the smallest, cutest and most chic of the islands. Its curving little harbour-town greets us with a riot of colour and the scent of bougainvillea and begonia trailing along the walls of little winding walkways. These attractive pedestrian alleyways meander past freshly painted blue and white villas and boutique hotels and honey-coloured chapels, until losing themselves as indistinct hillside pathways. Every corner gives the eye new coloured compositions of blue sea and sky, and rocky islets and framing walls, towers and steps. Perhaps it was the seductive charm of this tiny islet that had Ingrid Bergman and Italian film director Roberto Rossellini indulge their scandalous affair in 1949 while making the 1950 film Stromboli. Their story continues in the 2012 documentary entitled The War of the Volcanoes, featuring the antics of Rossellini's jilted lover, Anna Magnani. Soon our tight cruise scheduling has us on our way over sunny, blue waters to Stromboli, all eyes drawn to its high crater, and the promise in the puffs of smoke and steam. As we draw ever nearer, our noses too are alerted by a first whiff of sulphur on the wind. At 5pm we arrive at the harbour of Ficogrande on Stromboli. My first impulse is to skip a drink and a snack, and instead get up close to a place that my teenage reading and imagining had drawn me to. I want to get high enough to see the crater, smell its sulphur and perhaps even hear the volcano's deep belly rumbles. But we don't get far along the summit access path, halted by the scheduling of our boat journey and by angry guides who tell us that unguided hikes are 'vietato' (forbidden). Temple of Concordia, Agrigento, Sicily. Photograph: iStock On the way to Stromboli In the event, it is well after 7.30pm when the boat stops opposite the Sciara del Fuoco, the great lava slide topped by a collapsed section of crater rim. We hang out there, safely offshore, watching the odd burst of volcanic fire and smoke as a golden sun sets on a darkening sea. Later, as we all wait and watch, a full moon marches up into the sky passing through the smoke and steam of the volcano. It casts its own stream of silver on to a sea where heroes from ancient times once sailed and an ancient God once blew the winds around. At around 9pm, we are on our way back to Milazzo over a limpid sea, under a full moon and a sky full of stars. Okay, I haven't been able to peer into the fiery cauldron of molten lava. And I haven't seen as much of beautiful Sicily as I would have liked, nor stayed to watch sunrises and sunsets on the shores of lovely islands, nor hiked their hills. But my more mature imagination is happy to have done what I have done, and especially to complete my quest to Stromboli.

‘Like the Caribbean': Ibiza's quiet little sister has stunning beaches
‘Like the Caribbean': Ibiza's quiet little sister has stunning beaches

Metro

time18-07-2025

  • Metro

‘Like the Caribbean': Ibiza's quiet little sister has stunning beaches

Ibiza might not be the first place that comes to mind for a relaxing holiday. Though the beautiful Balearic island has some quiet spots it's mainly known for its rambunctious rave scene and rowdy travellers (some of which are arrested on the flight over). But, if you're looking for something a little less intense, Ibiza's quiet little sister island, Formentera, is just 30 minutes away. Known for its turquoise waters and long stretches of sand, the tiny island is just 12 miles long and a mile and a half wide at its narrowest point. A tranquil place to recover from several days of partying, really. It's easy to reach too. With daily ferry departures every half hour between Ibiza and Formentera, the small island is a popular day trip for those wanting to escape the far more crowded island. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. Most people come to Formentera to relax on its stunning beaches – it's a perfect destination for sunbathing and snorkelling. Playa de Ses Illetes is probably its most well-known beach. The 'magnificent' stretch of sand has been compared to a Caribbean paradise due to its azure waters and white sand. The beach is also known for its unique pink sand, which is a result of crushed coral fragments mixing with the shoreline sand. It's located in the northern part of the island, close to the port of La Savina and the tourist resort of Es Pujalis. It's part of the Saline Natural Park of Ibiza and is a protected area. If you're visiting via car or motorbike, you'll have to pay a small fee to enter. On the opposite side of the island is Playa de Migjorn, one of the most famous beaches in Formentera, which stretches around three miles. It's divided into four sections: Ca Mari, Migjorn, Es Arenals and Es Copinar. Migjorn is the heart of the beach, while Es Arsenals is the most lively and popular area. It boats shallow waters and a wide beach, and is a popular area for families. There's plenty of other areas to explore on the island. All of the beaches are described as easily accessible – you can expect beach bars, restaurants and sunbeds to hire. But Formentera isn't just about sunbathing. You can visit the La Mola Lighthouse which is famously mentioned by French author Jules Verne in his novel Hector Servadac. It's perched on the island's eastern cliffs. Travellers can also try traditional dishes like bullit de peix, a fish stew served with garlic rice, and ensalada payesa, a salad made with dried fish, toasted bread and vegetables, at one of the island's rustic restaurants. Or, if you want to enjoy the island another way, why not hop on a boat tour to discover hidden coves, cliffs and caves in the water? Lonely Planet describes the Formentera as a 'beautifully pure, get-away-from-it-all escape'. Its pace of life is 'blissfully languid' and 'designed for lazy days'. It declares its beaches as some of the most exquisite in the world. And travellers seem to agree. Its beaches have countless five-star reviews on Tripadvisor, with visitors comparing them to those of the Maldives and the Caribbean. One tourist, Niky B, wrote on trip advisor: 'Superb beach worthy of the Caribbean! Take a nice picnic with you and you will not regret.' Another Duncan86 likened Formentera to 'heaven on earth', in a review posted earlier this year. He said: 'I have been to the most famous beaches in the Mediterranean, and do you know that maybe Illetes is the most beautiful. I almost cry to think of its heavenly beauty.' He begged fellow visitors: 'Please don't destroy her, love her as she deserves.' If the five-star reviews weren't enough to convince you, it's even got Kate Moss's stamp of approval. The supermodel has previously been paper relaxing on the island with her family. The likes of Bob Dylan, Pink Floyd and Jimi Hendrix also enjoyed the island in the 60s and 70s. Many other creatives and musicians were drawn to Formentera for its laid-back and hippy, Boho vibe. Located off the south coast of Ibiza, the easiest way to get to Formentera is by ferry. Several ferry companies operate the route including Balearia, Trasmapi, Aquabus and Formentera Lines. The journey takes around 30 minutes to an hour, departing from Ibiza Town to La Savina, the only port in Formentera. Ticket prices start from around €15. Once you get to the island, you can expect lower prices than those of Ibiza . A meal in a restaurant on the island is likely to cost around €15 too, compared to the high costs of dining out in Ibiza, which can range from €30-€50 for a meal and a drink at a mid-range restaurant. More Trending Because of its close proximity to Ibiza, most tourists visit during the day. But, if you want to make a night of it, there are plenty of accommodation options. You can expect to pay a premium for its five-star resorts, such as Hotel Riu Palace La Mola in Playa Migjorn. Rooms are going for around £500 this summer. Hostels are a cheaper option for cost-conscious travellers. Rooms at Hostel Marblau Formentera, start from £132. It's described as a 'no-nonsense hotel' near the beach of Es Calo, a small fishing village on the southeastern coast of the island. Do you have a story to share? Get in touch by emailing MetroLifestyleTeam@ MORE: 'Exceptionally beautiful' city crowned world's most walkable — with UK flights from £44 MORE: I visited Prague's 'narrowest street' to see if it lives up to the TikTok hype MORE: I adored Jersey — it's a crying shame that tourists aren't visiting

New TV Shows This Week (June 29 - July 5)
New TV Shows This Week (June 29 - July 5)

Geek Girl Authority

time29-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Geek Girl Authority

New TV Shows This Week (June 29 - July 5)

Welcome to another edition of New TV Shows. This week, Dora the Explorer is taking over with a new season and a new movie. Jules Verne's 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea comes to life on AMC+. Charlize Theron returns to Netflix with a sequel to The Old Guard . And The Sandman delivers its final season. Some exciting series, including some animated ones, are premiering this week. Get ready because things are about to get good. Here's what's new on TV for June 29 – July 5. NEW ON TV, JUNE 29 – JULY 5 June 29 – Nautilus Jules Verne's 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea becomes a TV series on AMC and AMC+. Shazad Latif, George Flood, Céline Menville and Thierry Fremont join the show to tell the story of Captain Nemo as he escapes prison. The first two episodes will introduce the captain and his motley crew of outlaws as they embark on a new mission. Nautilus premieres Sunday, June 29 at 3/2 am on AMC+ and 9/8c on AMC. RELATED: Nautilus Sets Out With Humility in a Double-Decker Sneak Peek of Its Premiere July 2 – Dora Season 3 of Paramount+'s Dora coincides with the 25th anniversary of Dora the Explorer . To celebrate this huge milestone, the show will air an hour-long birthday-themed episode that features Diego as well. The season will get viewers excited for the upcoming fourth season. Dora Season 3 premieres Wednesday, July 2 at 3/2 am on Paramount+. RELATED: TV Review: Nautilus Series Premiere July 2 – Head of State In Prime Video's Head of State, the UK Prime Minister and the US President are public enemies, threatening to destroy the alliances their countries have built. However, they must come together to fight a common and powerful enemy. To survive, they join forces with an MI6 agent. John Cena, Idris Elba and Priyanka Chopra Jonas lead a cast that includes Jack Quaid, Paddy Considine, Stephen Root and Carla Gugino. Head of State premieres Wednesday, July 2 at 3/2 am on Prime Video. RELATED: TV Review: Ironheart July 2 – The Old Guard 2 Charlize Theron returns to Netflix for The Old Guard 2 . The sequel finds Andy and her team of immortal warriors fighting a new enemy who has escaped an underwater prison. Meanwhile, Andy must join forces with an old friend to unlock the mystery behind immortal existence, or risk having everything she worked for over the last thousand years destroyed. The movie also features Matthias Schoenaerts, Veronica Van, KiKi Layne, Marwan Kenzari, Luca Marinelli and Chiwetel Ejiofor. The Old Guard 2 premieres Wednesday, July 2 at 3/2 am on Netflix. July 2 – Dora and the Search for Sol Dorado Daniella Pineda, Samantha Lorraine, Jacqueline Obradors and Jacob Rodriguez bring Dora, Diego and their friends to life in Dora and the Search for Sol Dorado . Nickelodeon releases a new film to celebrate how far Dora the Explorer has come throughout the years. This time around, Dora and her friends go on a journey through the Amazonian jungle to find the legendary Sol Dorado. Dora and the Search for Sol Dorado premieres Wednesday, July 2 at 7/6c on Nickelodeon. RELATED: Steven Universe Gets Prime Video Sequel Lars of the Stars July 3 – The Sandman The Sandman returns to Netflix for a second and final season. The first six episodes premiere this week, while the remaining will be available to stream toward the end of the month. The season begins a few weeks after where Season 1 left off. This means viewers will find Dream restoring and rebuilding his kingdom. His goal is to leave the past behind and look to the future, but things may not be as he expects them to be. The Sandman Season 2 premieres Thursday, July 3 at 3/2 am on Netflix. RELATED: The End Is Here in Explosive First Trailer for The Sandman Season 2 July 5 – The Summer Hikaru Died Netflix is bringing a new series based on the manga The Summer Hikaru Died . The show will focus on Yoshiki Tsujinaka's story as he discovers a mysterious being has replaced his best friend. He begins to notice certain differences that make him wonder where his real friend is. The series discusses grief, loss, and the supernatural. The Summer Hikaru Died premieres Saturday, July 5 at 3/2 am on Netflix. Check back next week for What's New on TV for July 6-12. This Original NARUTO Scene Still Holds Up 20 Years Later By day, Lara Rosales (she/her) is a solo mom by choice and a bilingual writer with a BA in Latin-American Literature who works in PR. By night, she is a TV enjoyer who used to host a podcast (Cats, Milfs & Lesbian Things). You can find her work published on Tell-Tale TV, Eulalie Magazine, Collider, USA Wire, Mentors Collective, Instelite, Noodle, Dear Movies, Nicki Swift, and Flip Screened.

Captain Nemo Is Indian? ‘Nautilus' Helps Correct the Record.
Captain Nemo Is Indian? ‘Nautilus' Helps Correct the Record.

New York Times

time28-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • New York Times

Captain Nemo Is Indian? ‘Nautilus' Helps Correct the Record.

In the 1870 novel '20,000 Leagues Under the Sea,' by Jules Verne, the submarine commander Captain Nemo is an often sullen recluse consumed by rage against the imperialist nation that murdered his wife and children. (That would be Britain.) In the 1954 Disney adaptation, in what is arguably his best-known screen representation, Nemo is still sullen, but the object of his outrage is much less clear. Brought to life by the British actor James Mason, this Nemo plays melancholy tunes on his pipe organ, his anger now directed at a 'hated nation' of capitalists and warmongers that seems a lot like Britain, yet goes conspicuously unnamed. There have been dozens of screen adaptations of the adventure classic over the years, from feature films to TV series to radio plays. Despite their differences — and there have been many — a fairly uniform picture of Captain Nemo has emerged: brooding, relatively sedentary (to be fair, this is a guy who spends a good chunk of his time 'under the sea'), 50s-ish, taciturn and almost always white. The hero of the AMC series 'Nautilus,' which premieres on Sunday, is not that Nemo. He is young, for one, his story beginning with the maiden voyage of the Nautilus, decades before he has had a chance to become jaded and sour. He is also an action hero, battling with swords and cannons and rifles, going mano a mano with a giant squid and riding atop a mammoth harpooned whale swimming at full speed. 'I spent most of that day soaking wet on top of this mechanical whale,' said Shazad Latif, who plays Nemo. 'They had to ferry my makeup artist over to me on this little paddle board for redos and touch-ups.' Want all of The Times? Subscribe.

David Tennant's Around the World in 80 Days hailed as 'action-filled, fast-moving delight'
David Tennant's Around the World in 80 Days hailed as 'action-filled, fast-moving delight'

Wales Online

time23-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Wales Online

David Tennant's Around the World in 80 Days hailed as 'action-filled, fast-moving delight'

David Tennant's Around the World in 80 Days hailed as 'action-filled, fast-moving delight' The latest adaptation of Jules Verne's 1872 novel has been a huge hit with fans of historical period dramas and is available to stream on BBC iPlayer now David Tennant in Around the World in 80 Days (Image: BBC / Slim 80 Days ) There have been countless adaptations of Jules Verne's widely loved 1872 novel, Around the World in Eighty Days. With a variety of creators trying to interpret the original material, some versions have triumphed, while others have not quite hit the mark. Thankfully, the most recent interpretation - a 2021 co-production by PBS and BBC - has turned out to be a tremendous success. The series was shot in South Africa, France, and the UK, with additional filming taking place in Romania. ‌ The programme first aired on La Une in Belgium in 2021, before making its BBC One debut in the UK on December 26, 2021. Before its premiere, it was announced that the show had been renewed for a second season pre-release. For the latest TV and showbiz gossip sign up to our newsletter . ‌ However, in October 2024, reports suggested that there were currently no plans to extend the series beyond its first season, reports Surrey Live. David Tennant assumes the character of Phileas Fogg in a grand retelling of Jules Verne's classic, with Ibrahim Koma playing Jean Passepartout and Leonie Benesch portraying Abigail Fix Fortescue. The narrative, while fictional, cleverly incorporates historical personas like Bass Reeves, Adolphe Thiers, and Jane Digby into its plot. The series has received a warm reception, boasting an 81 per cent approval rating on Rotten Tomatoes from critics, signalling robust admiration for the modern take on the epic journey in 'Around the World in 80 Days'. Article continues below Critics have weighed in with their thoughts, one lauding: "There's a reason that Jules Verne's novel has been made and re-made over the decades - it's a riveting adventure tale, and this version is no exception." Another showered acclaim, stating: "This new adaptation of Around The World In 80 Days more or less tells new stories that may have more parallels into the 21st century than the 19th. But it's also an action-filled, fast-moving delight." Despite the general positivity, some reviews were critical. A disenchanted reviewer noted: "It's ultimately a middling, entirely unnecessary new take on Verne's classic adventure novel, and its main cast seems aware they're starring in what amounts to an afterschool special." ‌ Some viewers praised the adaptation, sharing their thoughts with comments such as: "There is something about this time of year that demands a good, solid adaptation of a literary classic. Right on cue, here is Around the World in 80 Days for the entire family to enjoy." Fans also echoed similar feelings, with one expressing: "Nice cast, good work, I read the book and watched all the previous versions (also the anime). I like how it has changed." Many lavished praise on the 2021 rendition, as another enthusiast noted: "It's about time Jules Verne's famous story got the screen adaptation it deserves. Article continues below "Around the World in 80 Days is a fresh take on the timeless classic with a few tweaks to suit a modern audience. The cast is phenomenal. The writing, directing, cinematography, and production design are all brilliant and bring back memories of a time when TV productions weren't the c**p streaming services spit out nowadays." Yet, certain feedback was more reserved, with one viewer commenting: "A solid enough adaptation of the Verne classic, that does play it rather safe at times. It tries to tackle some important social issues along the way, but it does come across at times as rather forced and half baked."

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