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Denmark's Laid-back Northern Coast Has 19-hour Summer Days and a Quaint Surf Town Called 'Cold Hawaii'
Denmark's Laid-back Northern Coast Has 19-hour Summer Days and a Quaint Surf Town Called 'Cold Hawaii'

Travel + Leisure

time12-07-2025

  • Travel + Leisure

Denmark's Laid-back Northern Coast Has 19-hour Summer Days and a Quaint Surf Town Called 'Cold Hawaii'

Summertime in Denmark is like nowhere else. With the sunset pushed back past 10 p.m., there's plenty of time to pedal around on a bike, drink natural wine on the waterfront between swims, and take in the effortless cool and always joyous vibes of the country. On a recent trip to a rugged and wild stretch of the country known as the Jutland, I found that summertime buzz is taken to the next level in these parts. This string of fishing towns in northwest Denmark has become an unlikely surfer hub in recent years—and more than just good waves have washed up on the area's shore. After a week traversing the area, I found the last wild flat oysters in all of Europe, ambitious tasting menus, hygge-packed boutique hotels, and a million reasons to venture into the untouched natural spoils of this region and get lost for a little while. Surfers wait to catching waves in the cold waters of Klitmoller and Hanstholm. FynnAalborg, Denmark's fourth-largest city, makes a convenient getaway to the country's northern coast. You might opt to explore the art museums and walkable waterfront in this compact city for a day or two to see why Travel + Leisure named it one of the best places to go in 2024. But after landing, our crew found the promise of crashing waves irresistible, so we piled in our van and headed straight to the coast on a 90-minute drive. Denmark is an unlikely surfing destination. But this region—nicknamed 'Cold Hawaii'—sits at a high latitude that allows it to usher in epic swells as storms pass through the north. Surfers began whispering about the good surf brought on by the area's sometimes harsh weather in recent years. Red Bull heard the scuttlebutt and recently hosted its premier King of the Air qualifier event near Klitmøller, and the area is currently gearing up to host the World Championships for windsurfing. We landed on a gloomy day, but even through the misty coastal air, I immediately spotted the bobbing heads of surfers sitting just past the break as the wind whipped the coast. Where warmer weather surf towns have beach bars and seafood shacks, cozy coffee shops and sauna clubs line the beach in Klitmøller. I opted to take in the tranquility of the gray skies with a coffee, but you could zip up a wetsuit and grab a board courtesy of Cold Hawaii Surf Camp and dive right in, wasting no time. One of the Sauna Clubs along the beaches in Klitmoller. Liz Provencher/Travel + Leisure Chilly summer days aren't uncommon in these parts—which makes sense considering the Jutland shares latitude lines with Alaska. So even on summer days, a long day in the water should end with a cozy meal. I found just that only a short drive down the coast at Hanstholm Madbar, which has a dining room lined with large windows that look out onto the vast grasslands. Walking up to the restaurant, I passed bushes of sea buckthorn (tart orange berries that grow wildly in this region) and shaggy brown cows. The serene setting is the perfect place to dig into steamy pots of mussels and specials that change with the seasons. All of the towns along this stretch of coast are teeny—some have just over 1,000 residents. But word of premier surfing and an opportunity to unplug has brought more and more visitors and a slew of new hotels. Owned by a world-famous chef, the 36-room property at Svinkløv Badehotel guarantees excellent dining and a cottage-like atmosphere, and a popular Danish design brand, Vipp, recently opened a three-bedroom guesthouse that allows guests to immerse themselves in the nature and solitude of the area. The next morning, I admittedly hit snooze to sleep off a long travel day. Those who were up bright and early headed to the country's largest seafood auction in Hanstholm, where fresh catches from the North Sea are sold in a lively atmosphere on weekdays. The rest of day two should be spent among the waves, but make time to visit Hanstholm Lighthouse. Once the oldest and most powerful lighthouse in all of Denmark, the space also hosts a summertime pop-up called Østlængen with pizza, traditional Danish plates of sourdough and cheese, and birkes , a local baked good that features flaky, croissant-like layers filled with marzipan. Thy National Park (nationalpark Thy) in the morning sunrise. jonathanfilskov-photography/Getty Images I started the day by driving about 20 minutes inland to Thy National Park. Ninety-four square miles of protected land is packed with sand dunes and bird-filled wetlands ripe for exploring. Climb to the top of Lodbjerg Lighthouse for sweeping views of the rugged coastline or spot red deer and rare birds in the country's largest wildlife reserve. On the edge of the national park, Thy Whisky is run by eighth-generation farmers who respect the land and turn it into some solid single malts. The owners took me through rolling hills of barley, rye, and wheat and all of the distillery spaces before filling up glasses of four different whiskies for a taste. The single-estate distillery also offers quicker drop-in tastings, but it's worth penciling in some extra time for the tour to fully appreciate these terroir-driven pours. After driving about 25 minutes further down the coast, I settled down for a mind-blowing meal at Restaurant Tri, which sits in a tiny coastal town with less than 200 people. The restaurant is chef Nicolas Min Jørgensen's ode to regional flavors achieved by expert sourcing and a palpable love for the area. When I was there, a local farmer had just dropped by with a bounty of fresh produce and Jørgensen was upstairs drying mushrooms from a recent foraging trip—no wonder the Michelin Guide has awarded this spot both a standard star and a special green star award for sustainability. After a long night, tuck into Vorupør Badehotel. The seven-room property sits right on the ocean and oversized windows ensure you can take in all the views. Going oystering in Mors. Liz Provencher/Travel + Leisure Oysters are another draw of the region, so my final day was spent pulling on waders and getting out into the fjord between the island of Mors and the mainland. The area's Danish Shellfish Center is dedicated to researching and sustaining some of Europe's last remaining wild oysters. The team offers a two-hour experience that starts with a lesson on the area's flat oysters before it's time to pull on slick rubber waders and get out on the water. Equipped with a waterproof outfit, a net attached to a long bamboo pole, and a bucket to hold my catch, I walked down to the water to give it a go. After about 45 minutes of scouring the floor of the fjord, I only had an oyster or two to show for my efforts. But even on unlucky days, the team has plenty of fresh oysters to shuck while you toast some sparkling wine to a hard day's work. A dish from Limfjordens Hus. Liz Provencher/Travel + Leisure For even more seafood, have lunch at Limfjordens Hus nestled in Glyngøre Havn. If you have room for even more oyster-infused fare, walk over to Danish Oyster Bar to try a local beer that's brewed with oyster shells resulting in a delightfully briny pour that can be enjoyed overlooking the water. We then checked into the Tambohus Inn for our last night in the Jutland. The accommodations are homey and simple, but its location along the fjord is prized. Before packing up for the airport, be sure to cross the street to enjoy the inn's sauna and chilly plunge into the fjord to do as the locals do—it's the only way to cap off this epic trip.

From lake swims to historic hikes: explore Søhøjlandet, Denmark's Lake District
From lake swims to historic hikes: explore Søhøjlandet, Denmark's Lake District

The Guardian

time09-06-2025

  • The Guardian

From lake swims to historic hikes: explore Søhøjlandet, Denmark's Lake District

If being near water is your idea of heaven, Denmark's very own Lake District, Søhøjlandet, is the ultimate jewel-green retreat. This region of immense natural beauty provides an idyllic backdrop to all kinds of outdoor adventures, from kayaking and paddleboarding to swimming and fishing. What's more, it's one of Denmark's most elevated geographical areas, with much of it covered by natural woodland – perfect for mountain biking or hiking through undulating forest trails. Located in Jutland, in the middle of Denmark, the Lake District Søhøjlandet is easily reached from the nearby city of Aarhus, yet a world away from the bustle of everyday life. Make Silkeborg your hub – the picturesque town sits in the centre of the region and is Denmark's official 'outdoor capital'. Here you can combine culture, shopping and Danish hospitality alongside forays into the hinterland for more energetic pursuits. And if you're not inclined towards an awfully big adventure, Silkeborg itself has its own 'Silk Route', taking visitors past the colourful buildings of the old town to forest paths and lakeside beaches on a 7.5-mile circular trail. Tackle it all at once or in sections, stopping off at key attractions, such as the Aqua Aquarium and Wildlife Park or The Paper Museum, where you can discover the history of the old mill that helped establish Silkeborg in the 19th century. Of course, it's the surrounding waterways that are Silkeborg's main attraction, with the abundant lakes connected by the Gudenåen – at 100 miles it's Denmark's longest river. Lyngsø, an urban lake formed by an ice age depression, is a top spot for freshwater swimming and fishing, and covers an impressive 9.7 hectares, meaning you'll always find a tranquil spot to call your own. At nearby Almindsø, you can enjoy one of two main bathing pools, each encircled by wooden platforms – just perfect for jumping in and making a splash. Or head to Langsø – with gardens that reach the water's edge, it's a lovely spot for a picnic or an afternoon of gliding along on a paddleboard. With so many naturally wild spaces and thriving habitats for birds and mammals, you'll want to keep an eye out for wildlife. At Sminge Lake, north-east of Silkeborg, the marshes and reeds provide breeding grounds and a safe haven for abundant birdlife, including Nordic waterfowl. Crossed by the Gudenåen and fed by the Gjern River, this spot can be reached by the towpath and is worth exploring by kayak or canoe, which can be rented in town. Slåensø is another of Denmark's most pristine lakes – here, wildlife flourishes and the water is clean enough to drink. With the nearby Kongestolen, or King's Seat, at 82 metres offering gorgeous views over the water, you could make a day of it with a loop around the 2-mile lakeside rambling trail. Another way to take in the enormous expanse of waterways is to board a traditional steamboat. There are nine in total, whose names translate to birds such as the falcon, heron and tern. The mother of them all is the Hjejlen, which began sailing in 1861 and is the world's oldest coal-fired paddle steamer. Declared a historical monument by the Ship Preservation Foundation, and enjoyed by the writer Hans Christian Andersen, it can ferry you in the summer months beyond Silkeborg to the villages of Laven and Ry, which are part of the scenic Himmelbjerget trail. At 147 metres above sea level, the 'sky mountain' Himmelbjerget is one of Denmark's highest points. Historically important as a centuries-old meeting point, climbing the hill offers panoramic views over Lake Julsø and the surrounding countryside, along with the chance to explore the 25-metre tower built in 1875 as a memorial to King Frederik VII. For a faster-paced way to explore, take to the area's network of mountain bike trails that take you from the Nordskoven forest to the Gjern Bakker hills. Known affectionately as 'Denmark's Roof', the terrain here offers dramatic uplands and deep valleys. Or opt for the old railway line that runs between Funder and Brande, through the deciduous forests of East Jutland – a gentler nature trail that's suitable on foot, bike or horseback. Whether you seek thrills or tranquillity, Lake District Søhøjlandet's mix of land and water adventures promises both restoration and inspiration. Explore the lakes and trails of Søhøjlandet

Denmark's adventure playground: why the Aarhus region is a must-visit for outdoor-lovers
Denmark's adventure playground: why the Aarhus region is a must-visit for outdoor-lovers

The Guardian

time09-06-2025

  • The Guardian

Denmark's adventure playground: why the Aarhus region is a must-visit for outdoor-lovers

Whether you're a seasoned adventurer ready to take a multi-day canoe trip through Denmark's varied landscapes, or you just want to find some peace in nature on an afternoon hike, the diverse outdoor attractions of Aarhus and the surrounding region offer everyone a chance to explore at their leisure. Located in Jutland, the mainland peninsula of Denmark that borders northern Germany, this area is full of spectacular nature experiences, from glorious sandy beaches to ancient landscapes shaped by the ice age. Can you be outdoorsy in a city? Aarhus says you can. From its numerous biking routes to its royal hunting forest, not to mention its harbour, Denmark's second city has a lot to offer. The city's harbour baths, floating swimming pools in the clear, clean harbour, are a great place to start. Opened in 2018, they quickly became a popular hangout on a sunny day, and incorporate a range of different pools, sundecks and diving platforms. It's all free – just bring a swimsuit and a towel. There are plenty of other water-based activities to try in Aarhus, too. At La Sauna, you can try the Danish tradition of saunagus. It's a combination of sweat, scent oils, music and low lighting, with a saunagus master on hand to guide you through three intense sessions over the course of about an hour. Surf Agency, also in the city, offers paddleboard trips and kiteboarding options, led by certified teachers. You don't have to have any experience of these sports as there are courses suitable for all levels. The calm waters around the Aarhus coastline offer ideal conditions for paddleboarding in particular, so it makes for an unforgettable day out that the whole family can share. Beyond the water, head to Marselisborg Forests just outside the city centre for walks under beech trees and a 16-mile mountain bike trail. The 550-hectare forest has a deer park, campsites, old watermills and even an amusement park among the trees. Locals love the True Forest, a favourite picnic spot and hiking and running area. Funny you should ask: Djursland, 40 minutes' drive north-east of Aarhus, happens to be the area's unofficial adventure playground. Much of it is given over to Mols Bjerge national park, a beautiful, diverse area of landscape that includes forests of ancient trees, little harbours, swathes of sandy beaches and pastures. It's also home to the very pretty town of Ebeltoft, where you can pick up the ingredients you need for a picnic. Mols Bjerge is renowned as a great place to go hiking – the 50-mile Mols Bjerge mountain trail is one of the best known – and you'll find everything from castle ruins to troll forests in the ice-age scenery along its route. Beyond the national park, there are some lovely coastal cycling routes in this gentle scenery. As well as paths that wind in and out of woodlands and small villages, there are a number of routes along old railway lines and, near Ebeltoft, an established mountain bike route. Much of the scenery in this area is harmonious and gentle – rolling hills that sink down to gently shelving beaches. Karlby and Sangstrup Cliffs are a neat counterpoint to all of this: two rather unusual sandstone cliffs three miles long and 17 metres high on the northern part of Djursland. On the rocky beaches beneath them, you're likely to find fossils, including petrified sea urchins, and even stone-age flints. Look out for porpoises just offshore. An hour's drive to the north-west of Aarhus, Viborg offers more adventures in Danish nature. It's the starting point for one of Denmark's most ancient routes: the Hærvejen, or the ancient road, which runs down the spine of Jutland. The full 620-mile route can be done on foot or by bike, staying at little hostels along the way. A bit like the South West Coast Path in the UK, it can be broken up into distinct sections so you do it over multiple trips, exploring forests and lakes and towns established by the Vikings. The main stage is from Viborg to Jelling, along which you can discover some of Jutland's most beautiful scenery, from heather-clad hills to quiet paths winding past large dolmen and burial mounds. You'll end your journey at the Jelling Stone, one of Denmark's most significant Viking sights. Viborg may be inland, almost equidistant from Jutland's east and west coasts, but there's still lots of water to enjoy. At the Viborg lakes Nørresø and Søndersø, you can swim, fish for carp or go paddleboarding. A bike ride around the lakes shows the town off from all its angles. It's also a good place for a troll hunt: scrapwood artist Thomas Dambo has hidden one of his many trolls in the Viborg area. The river delta at Randers, 45 minutes' drive north of Aarhus, is the ideal location if you like to canoe. The country's longest river, the Gudenåen, flows through the city and from there you can pick up a number of extraordinary canoeing adventures, suitable for all abilities, where you can travel across broad lakes, paddle past old mill villages and explore the natural wildlife as you go. Kingfishers flit across the water and the peace and quiet you'll discover is magical. It's easy to do it as a day trip from the city. Beyond the river, Randers offers plenty of space to breathe, notably along the Randers Fjord, where reed beds grow, ready to be used in thatched roofs, and yachts sail gently by. For wildlife lovers, Naturpark Randers Fjord is not to be missed. This stunning nature reserve encompasses the area where the fjord meets the saltwater of the Kattegat, the strait joining the Baltic Sea and the North Sea, and tidal flats and salt meadows fringe the water. It's a lovely area for hiking and birdwatching – eagles have been spotted – as well as boating. In the summer, the area's many shelters offer a chance to sleep out under Denmark's wide, starry skies. Discover the outdoor soul of Denmark in the Aarhus region

Europe's Wind Industry Faces Uncertainty Over Trump's Policies
Europe's Wind Industry Faces Uncertainty Over Trump's Policies

New York Times

time09-05-2025

  • Business
  • New York Times

Europe's Wind Industry Faces Uncertainty Over Trump's Policies

In the sprawling flatlands of Denmark's Jutland peninsula, near the small town of Give, a family-owned company called Welcon has been gearing up to build giant, cylindrical wind turbine towers for a multibillion-dollar project. The project, a wind farm called Empire Wind, is being built by the Norwegian energy giant Equinor in the waters off Long Island, N.Y. But those plans were thrown into disarray last month when the Trump administration, which is skeptical about offshore wind power, ordered an indefinite halt to construction. The pause shocked Carsten Pedersen, who owns Welcon with his brother Jens, and the wind industry. 'It's, in my opinion, a banana republic over there,' Mr. Pedersen said, referring to the chaotic blitz of policy changes coming from Washington. 'You cannot just stop projects' whose developers have already put in years of work. Welcon was tapped as a subcontractor to supply the towers for the project by Vestas Wind Systems, a leading wind turbine maker, which has its headquarters in Aarhus in Jutland. If Empire Wind is permanently shut down, Vestas will lose a manufacturing order likely worth around $1 billion for 54 of its latest turbines, which have blades nearly 380 feet long. The contractors would probably receive some compensation from Equinor. The wind industry is crucial to Europe's ambitions to tackle climate change and enhance energy security, but three months into President Trump's second term in office, industry executives are reassessing their approach to renewable energy. An important question is whether the president's initial flurry of actions, as well as worries about what may come, will derail what looked like the beginning of an industry recovery. The wind business took a pounding after the pandemic, when higher interest rates and inflation turned contracts and projects into loss makers. Industry executives are counting on Europe to make up for a pullback in the United States. 'We don't see anything happening in the U.S. jeopardizing the perspective for offshore wind in Europe,' said Rasmus Errboe, chief executive of Orsted, a Denmark-based global wind developer. He added that he expected offshore wind to make up 20 percent to 25 percent of Europe's electric power generation by 2050 compared with roughly 4 percent in 2024, implying that hundreds of billions of dollars will be spent on new facilities. Overall, wind provided about 20 percent of Europe's electricity in 2024, according to WindEurope, an industry group. Vestas and Orsted both reported positive first-quarter financial results this week. Vestas said it had earned a small profit of 5 million euros in the quarter, compared with a loss a year earlier, while Orsted, which had earlier taken large write-offs on some planned projects in the United States, said profit was up 87 percent, to 4.9 billion danish krone, or about $744 million. The share price of Vestas is down about 50 percent from a year ago, and Orsted's has fallen about 40 percent in that same time. In a sign that the economic and regulatory environment remains difficult, even in Europe, Orsted said Wednesday that it would not proceed with a large planned wind facility called Hornsea 4 in Britain's North Sea. Mr. Errboe blamed rising prices from suppliers and uncertainty for the decision, which still will cost the company as much as 4.5 billion krone or about $680 million to compensate contractors and other expenses. 'We have simply seen that prices have gone up and also the risk on the project has gone up,' he said. Despite the risks, offshore wind has been a major success in Northern Europe. Orsted estimates that the cost of electricity from these installations fell 70 percent from 2015 to 2020, thanks to ever-larger turbines and other innovations. Since then, though, the cost of wind generation has risen 50 percent. A few years ago, the United States looked like a promising market for offshore wind. Now industry executives assume no new offshore projects will start up under the Trump administration. There are questions over whether the handful of giant projects now underway, which include two by Orsted, called Revolution Wind off Rhode Island and Sunrise Wind off Montauk, N.Y., will be completed. Mr. Errboe said that these projects were already well underway. Orsted took $180 million in write-offs on the value of these wind farms because of the impact of the 25 percent tariff imposed on imported steel and aluminum by the Trump administration. Because it is mainly a land-based-turbine builder, Vestas, which has 30 percent of the world market outside China, is somewhat insulated from the travails of offshore wind, a newer, riskier industry. Henrik Andersen, the company's president and chief executive, said in an interview that through the pandemic and earlier periods of international concern about China, Vestas had learned to geographically arrange its turbine manufacturing to reduce damage from tariffs and other measures. 'We generally tend to shuffle things around,' he said. Vestas has factories in Colorado, where it has been producing land-based turbines that it sells in the United States, one of its largest markets. Mr. Andersen said these facilities had been running 'seven days a week' to produce turbines ordered under the favorable conditions that prevailed during the Biden administration. Having U.S. factories, he said, reduced the affect of tariffs, although some components like generators are still likely to be imported. Whether factories will continue to operate at full tilt depends on whether confidence returns. Orders for onshore turbines in the United States have dried up, at least temporarily, as developers wait for the White House to clarify policies. Endri Lico, a principal analyst at the consulting firm Wood Mackenzie, estimates that turbine orders in the United States have fallen to their lowest level since the first quarter of 2020. 'Uncertainty dominates,' he said. Dealing with changes and unknowns has become a wind executive's role. 'Of course, I don't know what will be announced in five or six days from now,' Mr. Andersen said. What is certain, though, he said, is costs will be passed on to customers and 'tariffs will mean higher electricity prices in the U.S.'

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