01-07-2025
Prada in cultural appropriation row over India's sandals design
Prada is embroiled in a cultural appropriation row over its new leather sandals design.
The Italian luxury fashion label was forced to acknowledge that its new footwear line was inspired by India's famous Kalhapuri 'chappals' - handcrafted shoes known for their toe-loop design made in Maharashtra state.
Prada's models had showcased the brand's new leather sandals, which look almost identical to the original, at the Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week last week.
The brand described the sandals as 'leather footwear' but did not mention its Indian origins, prompting a furore among Indian artisans and politicians who accused the Italian giant of cultural appropriation.
Thousands of Kalhapuri sandal makers complained to the Maharashtra chamber of commerce, accusing Prada of stealing their work.
'This is cultural theft. They stole and replicated our crafty work,' said Ramesh Jadhav, 55, an artisan of Subhash Nagar locality in Kolhapur. The sandals are popular across India and are often worn along with traditional Indian clothing.
Dhananjay Mahadik, a member of parliament from the state's Kolhapur district, threatened legal action against Prada. Mr Mahadik said the Prada sandals are priced at approximately $1,400 a pair, while the authentic Kolhapuri sandals are available in the local markets for about $12.
In response to a letter written by the Maharashtra chamber of commerce on behalf of the Indian sandal makers, Prada acknowledged its new footwear line was inspired by their centuries-old traditional design.
'We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship. Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development, and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialised,' Patrizio Bertelli, the chairperson of Prada's Board of Directors, wrote.
Bertelli said that the company remains 'committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities, as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft.'
' Prada strives to pay homage and recognise the value of such specialised craftspeople that represent an unrivalled standard of excellence and heritage.'
The sandal is named after Kolhapur, a city in Maharashtra where they are made. Kolhapur, nestled in southwestern Maharashtra, is a city steeped in royal heritage and artisanal pride. Its famed sandals date back to the 12th century, with more than 20,000 local families still involved in this craft.
Kolhapuri chappals are made from cow and buffalo hides, which are then tanned and sometimes dyed in natural colours. In 2019, the Indian government awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) status to the sandal to mark its authenticity.
This is not the first time that global brands have been accused of appropriating Indian traditional products without crediting their roots.
At the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, Gucci described a sari worn by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt as a gown, sparking backlash.
