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Indian Express
16-07-2025
- Indian Express
Arc of the Kanwar Yatra: From Samudra Manthan to churning forces in society today
For about a fortnight in July, a common sight in North India is groups of men dressed in saffron clothes, atop trucks or on foot, chanting religious slogans like 'Har Har Mahadev' or 'Bol Bam', and carrying decorated slings. These slings, called kanwars, hold containers full of water from the Ganga, which the pilgrims are taking to various Shiva temples. The pilgrims are called kanwariyas and the annual pilgrimage is called the Kanwar Yatra. In recent years, the numbers of kanwariyas have swelled as the government has made better arrangements for their journey. However, this has also created an image of kanwariyas blasting music from their vehicles and getting into scuffles with other passersby. While the idea of pilgrimage in the Hindu religion is ancient, the Kanwar Yatra as seen today is a relatively new phenomenon. What are the religious beliefs behind the Kanwar Yatra, and what socio-economic-cultural forces shaped its present form? We explain. Kanwar Yatra is undertaken in the Hindu month of Shravan, or Saavan. Like many Indian festivals, Kanwar Yatra is also linked to the Samudra Manthan, the cosmic churning of the ocean. When the Devas (gods) and the Asuras (loosely translated as demons) churned the ocean, among the many things to emerge from it was halahal, or poison. The poison was so potent that if allowed to spread, it would have ended all life. Lord Shiva then swallowed the poison, which turned his throat blue and earned him the epithet of Neelkantha (the blue-throated one). To cool his burning throat, Goddess Parvati and others gave him water from the Ganga. Since the Samudra Manthan took place in the month of Shravan, devotees carry pitchers of Ganga water to Shiva temples as an offering in this month. The kanwar should not be put down on the ground at any time during the journey, and so people often travel in groups, carrying the kanwar for each other when needed. Water has to be taken from the Ganga and offered to in the month of Saavan, so the dates for the Kanwar Yatra this year are July 11 to (beginning of Saavan) to July 23 (Saavan Shivratri). Popular sites to collect the Ganga water are Sultanganj in Bihar, Prayagraj, Ayodhya or Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, and Haridwar, Gaumukh and Gangotri in Uttarakhand. The Shiva temples considered of special importance are the 12 Jyotirlingas, the Baidyanath Dham in Jharkhand's Deoghar, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple in Varanasi, Pura Mahadev temple in Baghpat, and the Augharnath Temple in Meerut. 'Some temples are more popular than others, but it is not necessary for a devotee to go to one of these. Ganga water can be offered to Lord Shiva in the local town or village temple. Traditionally, the journey was undertaken on foot. Lord Shiva is an ascetic, so during the Kanwar Yatra, his devotees are supposed to practise the ascetic values of abstention and discipline while undertaking the journey,' Dr Ramesh Kumar Upadhyay, president of the Bhartiya Jyotish Aadhyatm Parishad in Jamshedpur, said. Upadhyay added that along with the Samudra Manthan legend, there is also an astrological reason to worship Shiva in the month of Shravan. 'Saavan, or Shravan, takes its name from the Shravana nakshatra (alignment of stars). Worshipping Lord Shiva in this nakshatra is considered specially auspicious,' he said. Mentions of the Kanwar Yatra as we know it are scant in religious texts and history books, though there are legends of various mythological figures offering Ganga water to Lord Shiva, from the sage Parshuram to Lord Rama to Lanka's king Ravana. Then there is the legend of Shravan Kumar in the Ramayana, who took his parents to pilgrimage in what we understand as a kanwar, but he is not recorded as carrying Ganga water to Shiva. Prof DP Dubey, retired professor of ancient history at the University of Allahabad and General Secretary of the Society of Pilgrimage Studies, said, 'In history books, descriptions of a kanwar yatra as such are difficult to find. Even the British, who were good at documenting, have not described a Kanwar Yatra. A Maharashtrian brahmin, Vishnubhat Godse, wrote a memoir of his travels in central and North India during and after the Revolt of 1857 (Maza Pravas, published much later in 1907). He talks of carrying Ganga water back to his village in Maharashtra to bathe his parents with, and this description, of walking barefoot carrying the Ganga water in a sling, is the closest to Kanwar Yatra as seen today. From my analysis of various local texts and accounts, the Kanwar Yatra appears to have originated in Bihar's Sultanganj in the 1700s. From there, it spread.' However, this spread was slow and steady, and the major uptick seems to have come in the 1980s. Various scholars have written about it, and factors, while difficult to pinpoint, include better connectivity and infrastructure, rise of Hindu identity assertion, popularity and increased accessibility of devotional music in the form of cassettes, and increasing average income in North India. Vikash Singh, Associate Professor of Sociology at New Jersey's Montclair State University, in his book Uprising of the Fools: Pilgrimage as Moral Protest in Contemporary India (2017) about the Kanwar Yatra, has written that many of the kanwariyas are young, not-very-affluent men. 'At the margins of the economy, the religious phenomenon provided an open and freely accessible, yet challenging, stage—a definite and alternative field—for participants to practice and prove their talents, resolve, and moral sincerity…The religious event is also a means to contest the symbolic violence and social inequities of a hierarchical society now dominated by a neoliberal social ethic, as imposing as it is exclusive.' Prof Dubey pointed out that as with most things in India, in the popularity of certain types of religious activities too, caste plays a role. 'An important thing to note about pilgrimages, be it to the Kumbh Mela or the Kanwar Yatra, is that they are a way to break the rigid boundaries of caste. Historically, pilgrims trailed the caravans of traders or even soldiers for security. Pilgrimages create bonds of community that are more inclusive than the generally air-tight pockets of caste. State support also plays a role. With the UP government now literally showering kanwariyas with flowers, the draw is naturally greater,' Dubey said. Yashee is an Assistant Editor with the where she is a member of the Explained team. She is a journalist with over 10 years of experience, starting her career with the Mumbai edition of Hindustan Times. She has also worked with India Today, where she wrote opinion and analysis pieces for DailyO. Her articles break down complex issues for readers with context and insight. Yashee has a Bachelor's Degree in English Literature from Presidency College, Kolkata, and a postgraduate diploma in journalism from Asian College of Journalism, Chennai, one of the premier media institutes in the countr ... Read More


India Today
18-06-2025
- General
- India Today
June 18, the day Laxmi Bai, queen of Jhansi died and an icon of rebellion was born
In the history of colonial India, one woman's courage became legend. As the British tightened their grip through the Doctrine of Lapse and the flames of the 1857 Mutiny erupted, Rani Lakshmi Bai emerged as a formidable leader, rallying her people against overwhelming odds. With Major General Hugh Rose's forces closing in, her daring escape from Jhansi's besieged fort set the stage for a final, fateful stand in Gwalior. This is the story of a warrior queen who declared, 'Meri Jhansi Nahi Doongi (I will not surrender my Jhansi).'advertisementMajor General Hugh Rose stared at Jhansi's towering walls, his Central India Field Force poised for a decisive attack. The air crackled with tension, dust swirling under the boots of 4,300 men - sepoys, cavalry, and artillery - arrayed against Rani Lakshmi Bai's defiant stronghold. Rose, born in Berlin to British parents and weathered by battles from Russia to Poona, surveyed the fort's cannons. From a distance, he glimpsed the silhouetted figure of the warrior queen behind the Lakshmi Bai wore her trademark Jodhpurs with a bodice. Two pistols rested in holsters from her hips. A diamond on the hilt of a dagger, dipped in poison, sparkled under the sun. On her head was a cap, covered with a silk scarf, giving it the shape and swirl of a Watching the queen from a distance, only one phrase echoed in Rose's mind: 'Meri Jhansi Nahi Doongi.' The challenge hurled at the British steeled his resolve. Facing him was the lioness of Jhansi, and the daughter of Kashi, later immortalised by Subhadra Kumari Chauhan's stirring poetry. The lioness was ready to fight, like a (Banaras), The BirthplaceThe year of her birth is unknown. Some say she was born in 1828. Others think it was later. But the legend of Manikarnika – Manu - began with a cry piercing the sacred air by the Ganges in the holy city of Kashi (Banaras).Legend has it that the city was made of gold. But the evil deeds of its residents robbed Banaras of its glitter, turning it into an ordinary town. On the side facing the historic Kashi Vishwanath Temple and Aurangzeb's mosque on the Ganga ghat lived Moropant Tambe (originally Wai), a Karhade Brahmin courtier, and Bhagirathi, his beautiful wife. In their house was born a girl who would be hailed years later as a freedom named after the Ganga, was raised in the household of Baji Rao II in Bithoor, the Peshwas of the Maratha confederacy. Barely five, she sparred with sticks in Bithoor's dusty courts, outpacing boys twice her age. Among her sparring partners were future heroes - the Peshwa's sons Nana Saheb and Rao Saheb, and nephew Tatya a ride atop an elephant, she famously declared that one day she'd have dozens. Peshwa Baji Rao II, her mentor, saw a warrior's spirit. 'This girl,' he said, 'will carve her name in history.' Her fate was sealed. Destiny and Jhansi - The ShadowOrchha, a town on the Betwa River, is considered the kingdom of Lord Rama. One of his descendants built the fort of Jhansi in the early 17th century on a steep rock just 18 km away. According to legend, when the ruler of Orchha asked if the new fort was visible from his fort, he was told it appeared 'jhain-sa', like a shadow. Thus was born Jhansi, the gateway to Bundelkhand in modern Uttar was not foretold. During the British Raj, its ruler Ramchandra Rao demonstrated his loyalty to the British by offering to adopt the Union Jack as Jhansi's official flag. It was allowed. This exhibition of loyalty earned the family the right to rule Jhansi through their legal heirs in perpetuity. (The Ranee of Jhansi: DV Tamhankar)advertisementTrouble erupted when Gangadhar Rao ascended the throne amidst a succession battle. After his first wife passed away childless, Rao married Manikarnika. Their son, born in 1852, passed away within three months of birth. Soon, Gangadhar Rao also died because of dysentery, after adopting a relative, whom he named as the the adoption ran into a law passed by the Doctrine of LapseIn the chaos of 1853, the Doctrine of Lapse, Lord Dalhousie's ruthless policy, struck Jhansi like a thunderbolt. This British stratagem allowed the East India Company to annex princely states without direct heirs, dismissing adopted successors. When Raja Gangadhar Rao died, the British refused to recognise the adopted son as Jhansi's ruler, and annexed Jhansi in 1854. Manikarnika, revered as Lakshmi Bai after the Indian goddess of wealth, was reduced to a pleas to be recognised as Regent and her adopted son as king were rejected, despite favourable reports from the British political agent. Lakshmi Bai was confined to a life of obscurity on the fringes of Jhansi. But the circle of life was Mutiny - Queen's GambitBy 1857, discontent simmered across India, fueled by British insensitivity towards peasants and artisans. There were fears of forced conversions, most notably through the alleged mixing of bones in wheat flour for soldiers, and the rumoured use of cow and pig fat in rifle cartridges, an affront to Hindu and Muslim May, the Indian Mutiny erupted in Meerut, spreading like wildfire to garrisons across the north, including Jhansi. On June 7, 1857, Jhansi's sepoys rose in revolt, seizing the Star Fort, a British outpost within the city. Many British residents sought refuge there, hoping for June 8, the mutineers, led by risaldar Kala Khan, besieged the fort. After negotiations, the British surrendered, expecting safe passage, but were massacred near Jakhan Bagh, just outside the city Bai's involvement in the Jhansi massacre of 1857 remains contested. British accounts, such as those of her lawyer John Lang, suggest she lacked control over the mutineers, who acted independently. Her letters to British officials, dated June 1857, claim she protected some Europeans and sought to maintain order, yet her role was scrutinised (National Archives of India). Conversely, other British reports accused her of complicity, arguing she failed to intervene. Evidence suggests she was overwhelmed by the chaos, caught between her people's fury and her limited power. The massacre, nonetheless, established Jhansi as a rebel stronghold and marked Lakshmi Bai as a British Ruler ReturnsWith the British expelled, the mutineers declared Lakshmi Bai the ruler of Jhansi in June 1857. Some accounts suggest the mutineers offered her leadership in exchange for a payment of 1,00,000 rupees, threatening to appoint Sadasheo Rao, a relative of the deceased Maharaja, if she assumed power, not as a passive figurehead but as a determined leader. By late 1857, she had solidified her rule, organising a force of roughly 10,000 troops. These included sepoys, volunteers, and a women's brigade, called the Amazons of Jhansi. Historical accounts suggest every woman in Jhansi was trained to ride and shoot. With her army ready, the Rani of Jhansi was waiting for the British 1858, The Noose TightensMarching from Bombay through Indore, Hugh Rose's Central India Field Force reached Jhansi in March 1858, intent on crushing the rebellion's heart. By now, the rebellion had been crushed everywhere, only isolated pockets of challenge, like Jhansi, British army, equipped with heavy artillery and disciplined troops, was led by a great leader. Its batteries were loaded with heavy firepower. Facing them was a rag-tag coalition led by the young March 24, Rose commenced a relentless bombardment, targeting Jhansi's walls with cannon fire. The fort, built on a steep rock, was a natural stronghold, but its defenses strategy was methodical: weaken the walls, then storm the city. By early April, after days of bombardment, breaches appeared in Jhansi's that Jhansi was about to fall, British troops launched a full-scale assault, scaling the walls under heavy Fall and The EscapeLakshmi Bai, realising the fort could not hold, made a daring decision. On the night of April 4-5, as the British tightened their grip, she escaped with a small retinue, including her adopted claims she leapt from the fort's walls on horseback, though accounts vary. British records confirm her escape, noting her route toward Kalpi, where she joined rebel leaders like Tatya fell to Rose's forces. But Lakshmi Bai's escape marked not defeat but defiance. The rebels fought at Kalpi, where they were defeated. At this point, Tatya Tope suggested a daring a part of the Maratha confederacy, was still supporting the British. Unlike other kingdoms of the region, it had not joined the 1857 rebellion, its soldiers, though restive, had not supported the revolt by sepoys of other states. Tope outlined a plan for attacking Gwalior, and turning its formidable fort into a bastion of the June 1, 1858, Tope, alongside Rani Lakshmi Bai and Rao Sahib, pounced on Gwalior. The pro-British Maharaja of Gwalior fled as the rebels seized the fort, declaring Hindavi Swaraj under Nana Saheb Peshwa. They persuaded the Gwalior contingent to join their cause. Celebrations broke out throughout north India, people assumed the end of British Raj was imminent with the impregnable Gwalior fort now under the control of Nana Saheb, Tope and Lakshmi Rose's army was still pursuing them. The defining battle of the rebellion was 17, 1858, GwaliorGeneral Hugh Rose's army started blasting the Gwalior fort. Despite initial resistance, the rebels were outgunned and outnumbered. The British artillery and cavalry overwhelmed their defenses. On June 18, Lakshmi Bai, dressed as a male soldier, made a daring attempt to break through British lines but was fatally wounded in combat near British were unaware of her death for two days. One report said she was shot and killed near Phool Bagh batteries. Another British account suggests she was with Rao Sahib and Tatya Tope, observing advances, and was struck by bullets and a sabre, surviving briefly before being carried toward Phool Bagh, where she was biggest compliment came from General Rose. He acknowledged her as the bravest and best military leader of the rebels. Unlike most of the rebels, she vowed to fight till the end, and perished on the death marked a devastating blow to the rebellion. The British recaptured Gwalior soon after, consolidating their control. Tatya Tope continued guerrilla attacks on the British before being captured and hanged. The Peshwa turned into a sanyasin, but was caught and Bai's martyrdom became an Indian legend, which is still sung with pride. Because of her, Lakshmi Bai is not just a name, it is a synonym for courage and defiance - Meri Jhansi Nahi Reel


Time of India
01-06-2025
- Politics
- Time of India
Op Sindoor inspired by Ahilyabai's principles of self-defence: Yogi
Lucknow: Chief Minister on Sunday said that India's strong retaliation to through was inspired by the principles of self-defence espoused by Maratha ruler Ahilyabai Holkar while protecting the nation. Tired of too many ads? go ad free now "When under the leadership of Prime Minister Narendra Modi, the brave Indian jawans destroyed the air defence system of Pakistan through Operation Sindoor and compelled the enemy to bow, it was inspired by the actions and principles of self-defence that the Lokmata Ahilyabai espoused during her reign," Yogi said, addressing a programme held in Agra to mark the 300th birth anniversary of Ahilyabai Holkar, who ruled the Malwa region in the 18th century. "Our armed forces strike back with strength, as seen in surgical and air strikes against terrorism. When Pakistan supports terrorists, our country responds across the border. Our air force even destroyed their air defence system," he said. "The BJP-led double-engine govt is following the path of good governance shown by her (Ahilyabai) in carrying out development and public welfare works, various women empowerment schemes and restoration of temples in Uttar Pradesh," he said. "During the Mughal period, when foreign invaders destroyed and corrupted the symbols of India's identity and faith, especially the temples, Devi Ahilyabai did the great work of their revival two and a half centuries ago," he said. Yogi added that when a society takes inspiration from its national icons, no force can become an obstacle in its path. "Her work for women, craftsmen, artisans, farmers, youth and the cultural heritage of India is unforgettable. Tired of too many ads? go ad free now She renovated many religious places including Puri's Jagannath Temple, Gaya Temple, Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Kedarnath Dham, Mahakal Temple, Omkareshwar Temple, Somnath Temple, Bhimashankar Temple and Rameswaram Temple with her personal funds instead of using state assets," he said. Hitting out at the previous govt, Yogi said that earlier some people used to nurture mafias which created problems for law and order. "Some people used to change the name of the degree college built in her (Holkar's) name, but we are honouring her legacy," he said, adding that she lived for only 70 years, but her personality continued to guide and inspire the people. "As a mark of respect, a medical college in Auraiya has been named after Ahilyabai," he said. He praised Devi Ahilyabai's contributions to women and handloom artisans, noting how she brought global recognition to Mahishmati sarees — on the lines of Banarasi sarees.


News18
01-06-2025
- Politics
- News18
Operation Sindoor Inspired By Maratha Ruler Ahilyabai Holkar: CM Yogi Adityanath
Last Updated: India launched Operation Sindoor on May 7 in response to the Pahalgam terror attack, which claimed the lives of 26 people in Jammu and Kashmir. Uttar Pradesh Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath on Sunday said that India's strong response to Pakistan through Operation Sindoor was driven by the idea of self-defence, similar to the principles followed by Maratha ruler Ahilyabai Holkar in defending the nation. He added that, in the same way, the BJP-led 'double-engine" government is following her example of good governance by focusing on development, public welfare schemes, women empowerment initiatives, and the restoration of temples in Uttar Pradesh. 'When under the leadership of Prime Minister Modi, the brave Indian jawans destroyed the air defence system of Pakistan through Operation Sindoor… compelled the enemy to bow, it was inspired by the actions and principles of self-defence that the Lokmata espoused during her reign," Adityanath said. 300 वर्ष पहले, लोकमाता ने अपने साम्राज्य के माध्यम से आत्मरक्षा और सुरक्षा के गुण हम सभी को सिखाए थे… — Yogi Adityanath (@myogiadityanath) June 1, 2025 India launched Operation Sindoor on May 7 in response to the Pahalgam terror attack, which claimed the lives of 26 people in Jammu and Kashmir. As part of the operation, India targeted terror infrastructure in Pakistan and Pakistan-occupied Kashmir two weeks later, leading to a four-day military standoff between the two countries. Adityanath was addressing a programme held here to mark the 300th birth anniversary of Ahilyabai Holkar, who ruled the Malwa region in the 18th century. 'During the Mughal period, when foreign invaders destroyed and corrupted the symbols of India's identity and faith, especially the temples, Devi Ahilyabai did the great work of their revival two and a half centuries ago," he said while throwing light on the life of Ahilyabai Holkar. Adityanath started his speech by addressing Agra as 'Brajbhoomi' and described it as a historical land that was graced by Lord Krishna's presence. Vice President Jagdeep Dhankhar, his wife Sudesh Dhankhar and Haryana Governor Bandaru Dattatreya in Agra are among those present at the function. Adityanath said that when a society takes inspiration from its national icons, no force can become an obstacle in its path. 'The great personality of Lokmata Ahilyabai is a living example of this," he said. Her work for women, craftsmen, artisans, farmers, youth and the cultural heritage of India is unforgettable, he said. She renovated many religious places including Puri's Jagannath Temple, Gaya Temple, Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Kedarnath Dham, Mahakal Temple, Omkareshwar Temple, Somnath Temple, Bhimashankar Temple and Rameswaram Temple 'with her personal funds instead of using state assets", the chief minister remarked. She lived for only 70 years, but her personality remains a beacon of inspiration, Adityanath said. 'In the past, some people used to change the name of the degree college built in her (Holkar's) name, but we are honouring her legacy," Adityanath added. 'Today the double-engine government has named the medical college in Auraiya after Lokmata." (With agency inputs) First Published: June 01, 2025, 21:20 IST


NDTV
29-05-2025
- Entertainment
- NDTV
Varanasi Beyond Temples And Ghats: 7 Things You Must Absolutely Do While You Are There
When someone says 'Varanasi', what pops into your head? Probably the mesmerising Ganga Aarti, the sacred Manikarnika Ghat, the iconic Kashi Vishwanath Temple, or maybe that peaceful sunset boat ride. Fair enough - these are classics that give the city its spiritual heartbeat. But Varanasi is not only about its temples and ghats. It is a city where history, culture, and art casually bump into each other on every corner. Each lane has its own story, each bend has something going on, and every minute is a memory waiting to happen. This is your cheat sheet to a Varanasi that is full of surprises. Less guidebook, more street-smart. Let us dive into it. 1. Take a heritage walk through the secret lanes of Varanasi Skip the regular tourist trail and wander into Varanasi's maze-like streets. These winding lanes are filled with age-old shrines, hidden courtyards, crumbling havelis, and the kind of snack joints that deserve their own fan base. Sign up for a heritage walk led by someone who knows the city inside out, and you might stumble upon forgotten temples, bizarre legends, and fun facts that never make it online. Quick tip: Your guide will help, but do not just follow their script. Talk to the locals. Their stories and humour add more magic to the walk. Also, hold on to your stuff - staying alert never hurt anyone. 2. Sit in on a soul-stirring classical music baithak Varanasi is the birthplace of Indian classical music greatness. From Pandit Ravi Shankar to Ustad Bismillah Khan, legends have lived and performed here. And the music scene is still alive - in cosy baithaks, age-old music schools, and even on floating boats in the Ganga. These performances are not just about sound; they feel like something spiritual that stays with you long after. Quick tip: Ask about baithaks the minute you land. Cultural centres usually know what is coming up. Many events are intimate and informal, so planning your trip around them is a great idea. 3. Try your hand at Banarasi silk weaving or toy making Varanasi is a craftsman's city, too. In neighbourhoods like Madanpura and Lallapura, master weavers have been making Banarasi silk sarees for generations. Their looms create patterns so intricate, it is like watching poetry in motion. You can visit their workshops, meet the artisans, and even try the weaving yourself. For something different, head to Khojwa, where traditional wooden toys are still being made - a dying art that is worth your time and support. Quick tip: These hands-on experiences are best arranged through locals or cultural groups. So reach out in advance. 4. Go on a full-blown food trail in Old Varanasi If you love to eat (and who does not), the alleys of Old Varanasi are calling your name. Every twist in the road brings you face-to-face with something delicious. Whether you sign up for a food trail or do your own version, you are in for a treat. Start your day with spicy kachori-sabzi, head to Chowk for the legendary tamatar chaat, and if it is winter, do not miss the cloud-like malaiyyo that dissolves the second it hits your tongue. No food journey here is complete without the famous Banarasi paan. Wash it down with a rich lassi from the Blue Lassi Shop - served in a kulhad and often topped with fresh fruits and dry fruits. Quick tip: Show up hungry and curious. Your stomach will thank you. 5. Visit a peaceful ashram or a Sanskrit school Spend time in a quiet ashram or traditional Sanskrit school, where ancient Indian knowledge is still alive and kicking. Speak with scholars, attend open sessions on the Upanishads or Bhagavad Gita, or just sit in on Sanskrit chanting. These places are the real deal - no frills, just focus. Quick tip: Many institutions like this welcome guests, but they prefer that you reach out beforehand. That way, you are stepping in respectfully. 6. Explore Buddhist history in Sarnath Only 13 kilometres away from Varanasi is Sarnath, a calm and powerful spot where Buddhism made history. This is where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon after enlightenment. The Dhamek Stupa stands tall here - a huge stone structure from 500 CE that replaced an even older one built by Emperor Ashoka in 249 BCE. Right next door is the Sarnath Archaeological Museum, home to the Ashokan Lion Capital - the one on India's national emblem. Quick tip: Visit early morning or later in the day for a peaceful vibe. Get a guide - they make the history hit differently. Photo Credit: Pexels 7. Watch kushti - traditional Indian wrestling - live Set your alarm early and head to an akhara - a local mud-wrestling arena. Here, you will find pehelwans training with full intensity in giant sand pits. Their routine is tough, disciplined, and deeply rooted in tradition. Quick tip: Morning is best, dress simply, and watch quietly. If you are lucky, someone might let you in on their training tips. Varanasi wants you to pause, pay attention, and let it slowly get under your skin. Beyond the big-ticket attractions, the city offers little moments that turn into lifelong stories. Let it surprise you next time you visit - because it will.