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Travel + Leisure
16-06-2025
- Travel + Leisure
The Mekong's Moment: Why Cruise Lines Have Embraced Southeast Asia
Ever Since my first visit to Thailand 30 years ago, when I was a budget backpacker lured by the bargains and the beaches, I've been enamored with Southeast Asia. The region has become my happy place. So it was something of a shock, shortly after arriving in the riverside town of Kâmpóng Cham, Cambodia, to come face-to-face with one of history's ugliest moments. On an excursion to a site known as the Twin Mountains, my guide Tek Leng explained the horrific history of this place, today a peaceful park filled with pagodas and Buddha statues. As we walked past scampering monkeys and teenage monks in orange robes, it was difficult to believe that this was one of the Killing Fields during the reign of the Khmer Rouge, which perpetrated a genocide that resulted in the deaths of an estimated 2 million people. A visitor at Angkor Wat, the temple complex in Cambodia. Cambodia does not hide its scars. But I have found no place more unconditionally welcoming. And while the glorious ruins of Angkor Wat form what is undoubtedly the nation's marquee attraction, many travelers don't explore much beyond it. I wanted to go deeper—to visit rural communities and farms, to see more of everyday life in Cambodia and its neighbor Vietnam. And so I boarded the AmaDara, a beautiful 62-stateroom ship that plies the Mekong River between Kâmpóng Cham and Ho Chi Minh City. My eight-day cruise, operated by AmaWaterways , would make it comfortable and convenient to navigate this still-rural part of Southeast Asia. Each day, I'd have a choice of excursions: a monastery visit, a tour of a silk factory, a rickshaw ride, a market tour. After exploring, I'd return to the ship to cool off in the plunge pool, get a massage, enjoy my spacious cabin, with its French-colonial décor, and have healthful meals—though I'll admit to occasionally ordering the smashburger. After a major pandemic slowdown, the Mekong is booming again, with brands including Aqua Expeditions, Emerald Cruises, Uniworld Boutique River Cruises, and Viking all operating on the river. A cabin on Anouvong, a Heritage Line ship that sails the Mekong River. In the face of this competition, cruise lines have been building new ships, refreshing older ones, and augmenting their itineraries. 'We always look for hidden treasures, new things to do,' says Rudi Schreiner, cofounder of AmaWaterways, which has been operating on the river since 2009. Last year, for example, the company added an excursion to the 2,100-acre Tra Su Cajuput Forest in Vietnam. This wetland sanctuary is home to more than 70 bird species, and its waterways, which visitors explore by paddle-driven sampans, are carpeted in water lilies and elephant-ear plants. By the end of next year, AmaWaterways will launch a second ship, AmaMaya, which will be similar in size to the AmaDara . It must be said that these peaceful moments are only a part of the story on the busy lower portion of the river. Particularly in Vietnam, the Mekong is filled with barges hauling petroleum, cement, steel, and coal. But when we got near Cambodia, the traffic lightened. (For this reason, I think sailing upstream is the better way, leaving the drama of Angkor Wat for the journey's end.) Unsurprisingly, given the bustle, lines are increasingly pushing deeper into the upper Mekong, which roughly follows the border of Laos and Thailand up toward the Golden Triangle. Last December, Mekong Kingdoms launched the 13-suite Bohème, which makes five-night journeys between the Lao capital, Vientiane, and the UNESCO-listed town of Luang Prabang. Heritage Line operates the 10-stateroom Anouvong, a luxury ship that blends traditional Lao and French-colonial styling. It sails seven- and nine-night itineraries between Vientiane and Huay Xai, a town not far from where Laos, Myanmar, and Thailand meet. It's proof that in this fascinating part of the world, there's always more to discover. Siem Reap, Cambodia, isn't located on the banks of the Mekong, but it has become a natural start or end point for trips on the river—and not just because it's home to Angkor Wat. In late 2023, a $1.1 billion airport opened, allowing connections to the mega-hubs of Bangkok, Seoul, and Singapore, among other destinations. Typically, travelers embarking in Kâmpóng Cham fly in to Phnom Penh International, which is a 2½-hour drive from the cruise port. While the new Siem Reap–Angkor International is a 4½-hour drive, its contemporary facilities have made it an intriguing alternative. ABERCROMBIE & KENT The company runs trips aboard the 14-cabin Mekong Princess, a smaller ship that can access places larger vessels can't, like the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. AMAWATERWAYS Its Soulful Experience departure in October 2026, which includes both river-ship and land touring, will spotlight Black history in Southeast Asia. AQUA EXPEDITIONS The firm's 20-suite Aqua Mekong is equipped with kayaks, motorized skiffs, and all-terrain bikes for off-ship touring. NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC-LINDBLAD EXPEDITIONS It charters ships such as the Jahan, a chic 26-stateroom vessel, for two-week tours that include stops in both Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap, Cambodia. PANDAW CRUISES The pioneer of leisure trips on the river, this operator has off-the-beaten-path itineraries in Cambodia. UNIWORLD BOUTIQUE RIVER CRUISES This brand operates the Mekong Jewel, a 34-stateroom ship designed to feel like a luxury hotel, with a sizable swimming pool, a spa, and a library. VIKING Its latest 40-cabin ship, Viking Tonle, will arrive later this year with the line's signature Scandinavian design and itineraries that include overnights in Ho Chi Minh City, Siem Reap, and Hanoi, Vietnam. A version of this story first appeared in the July 2025 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline 'The Mekong's Moment.'
The Independent
20-05-2025
- Politics
- The Independent
Cambodia's 'Day of Remembrance' marks the 50th anniversary of the Khmer Rouge genocide
About 2,000 people attended Cambodia's annual Day of Remembrance Tuesday to mark half a century since Cambodia's communist Khmer Rouge launched a four-year reign of terror that caused the deaths of about 1.7 million people. Some three dozen student actors from a Phnom Penh art school re-enacted brutalities under the Khmer Rouge, which held power from 1975-1979, when an estimated one-quarter of Cambodia's population was wiped out due to tortures, executions, starvation and misrule. The official ceremony honoring the victims of what a U.N.-backed tribunal judged to be genocide was held at Choeung Ek, site of a Khmer Rouge 'Killing Field' about 15 kilometers (10 miles) south of the capital Phnom Penh. Several dozen Buddhist monks were among those attending. Garbed in black, the Khmer Rouge's standard attire, the performers acted as executioners, swinging bamboo sticks at the heads of victims whose arms were bound behind their backs. The re-enactment was held near a memorial displaying victims' skulls and mass graves where thousands of others were buried. 'When I come here, it reminded me, and I will never forget, this Khmer Rouge regime because it was extremely cruel and barbaric,' said 71-year-old Nhem Sovann, a Phnom Penh resident who said she lost six family members — her parents-in-law and two brothers and two sisters. She was put to work faming a rice field in the western province of Pursat. "I saw with my own eyes that even children were taken and had their heads smashed against the trunk of a coconut tree,' she said, sobbing. For a younger generation, the 'Day of Remembrance' is a learning experience. Pen Kunthea, a 23-year-old art student who portrayed a government soldier who rescued fellow Cambodians from the Khmer Rouge as they were being chased from power in early 1979, said the more she performs, the more she learns. She said she first learned about the Khmer Rouge regime from her parents and from her studies, and that one of her uncles died from illness during the Khmer Rouge's time in power. 'I feel scared, and I think the Khmer Rouge made our people afraid and I don't want that regime to happen again,' Pen Kunthea said. 'When I perform, it makes me feel like I was in the middle of the story,' she said, adding that she was excited to be able to portray the history of the regime. The Khmer Rouge captured Phnom Penh on April 17, 1975 and immediately herded almost all the city's residents into the countryside, where they were forced to toll in harsh conditions until in 1979, when the regime was driven from power by an invasion from neighboring Vietnam. In 1984, a new Cambodian government installed by the Vietnamese declared May 20, the day the genocide was said to begin, to be a 'National Day of Hatred' for people to vent their anger against the Khmer Rouge and its backers. At the time the Khmer Rouge were still trying to regain power by fighting a guerrilla war from the countryside, only to be finally subdued in 1997. In 2018, the day was officially redesignated the National Day of Remembrance, with an emphasis on honoring the victims. In a statement issued Tuesday, Prime Minister Hun Manet urged all Cambodians join in preserving and protecting peace. 'Even though these tragic events have passed, and the Cambodian people have been living in peace, political stability, and full of development in all fields, we must not let go or forget this bitter past," he said.
The Guardian
30-04-2025
- General
- The Guardian
‘Radical joy': Cambodians gather to celebrate Khmer New Year on the 50th Killing Fields anniversary
'Sousdey chnam thmey!' a rider shouted in Khmer into a megaphone while sitting atop a float swaddled in US and Cambodian flags. 'Happy new year!' parade-goers yelled back from the street. Thousands of Cambodian Americans gathered to celebrate the Khmer New Year in Long Beach's Cambodia Town district – the heart of the largest diaspora of Cambodians in the United States. Traditionally, the new year is celebrated over three days in mid-April in south-east Asia at the end of harvesting season. This year's celebration was the 17th annual parade organized by Cambodia Town Inc and also the 50th anniversary of the Khmer Rouge's four-year reign of terror that began in 1975. Under a communist-led regime, more than a million Cambodians were murdered in mass executions known as the Killing Fields. Throughout the 80s and 90s, Cambodians arrived in the US as refugees fleeing the violence of their home country and settled in Long Beach. Today, 4% or about 20,000 Long Beach residents identify as Khmer, the highest concentration of Cambodians outside of south-east Asia. 'The parade itself … shows resiliency and also shows the strength of our community that comes together,' said Sithea San, chair and co-founder of Cambodia Town Inc, one of the thousands of Cambodians who survived the genocide and arrived in the US as a teenager. Richer San, Sithea's husband, said the parade originated from a push to bring resources and bring awareness to the Cambodian community along the Anaheim corridor back in 2005. 'One of the goals is to heal the survivors of the Killing Fields, and, of course, also to bring business to the small businesses in that area,' said Richer. Sophy Khut, owner of Sophy's: Cambodia Town Food & Music, had her hands full at the festival, slicing pre-marinated meat for their most popular item on the menu: beef skewers. 'Our Cambodian food is unique,' said Khut, 57, who started the restaurant after graduating from college and had to recruit some help to meet the demand. 'We use a lot of healthy herbs like lemongrass, galangal, kaffir.' Khut's friend, Karen Ing, pitched in by skewering slices of meat for the grill. She said the food festival attracts Cambodians from all over in search of home and nostalgia. Unlike other Asian cuisines such as Korean or Chinese food, Cambodian food isn't as readily available. ' I don't think anywhere else has Cambodian food at the moment,' Ing said of the distinct and vibrant food scene in Long Beach. But she's been noticing that the festival is continuously growing year after year even amongst non-Cambodian audiences. ' We just don't have that many in terms of population and exposure, so this festival gives that.' On the festival stage, a rock band ensemble energized a crowd as they line danced to a medley of Cambodian classics from singers such as Sinn Sisamouth and Pen Ran – artists who had disappeared in the backlash against western music during the 1970s, but whose work survived and endures with music lovers. The cloudless day did not deter the intergenerational celebration as people danced in the streets along the parade route, Buddhist monks offered blessings, and rowdy children jumped around inflatable bounce houses. ' You can see on their face we call radical joy,' Sithea said. Locals such as Teig Sida could watch the entire festivities from his front porch across, as the parade snaked through the streets of Long Beach, a coastal city in south-eastern Los Angeles county. Sida, 60, remembers taking his children to the first parade in 2007 and now takes his grandkids. 'I try to get rid of the past,' he said of surviving the Khmer Rouge. As he passes down traditions, he doesn't want his family's future to be defined by the trauma of the past. 'We try to keep our culture going,' Sida said as he waved to passersby while holding aloft a money tree he planned to donate to a temple later. 'You have to remember where you're from.' Mental health is the other dimension of the parade's importance for Richer and Sithea who are outreach coordinators with Pacific Asian Counseling Resources. Because of the war and trauma, some Cambodian survivors feel shame around the negative associations with their cultural identity and history, Richer said. A 2005 study of Cambodians in Long Beach found that 62% of survivors had post-traumatic stress disorder, rates much higher than 4% for the general population. A third of Cambodian households in Long Beach live below the poverty line in comparison to 12% of Asian Americans overall in Los Angeles county, according to UCLA's 2013 report on the state of Cambodia Town. ' If you don't have a good mental health. It will affect your physical health,' said Sithea. Richer said that survivors like himself who have PTSD can unintentionally alienate their family members by refusing to talk about their trauma. Their kids ' feel stressed because they didn't understand why their parent react to a certain environment', said Richer. But he said the parade offers an opportunity for families to address the past and to bond over their culture and history. 'The parade bring all of them. You see that they walk together, three generations,' said Richer. Mila Kristensen was a baby when the Khmer Rouge took over Phnom Penh and was attending the Cambodian New Year festival with her nine-year-old daughter, Caija. 'It's really fun,' said Caija of the festival. ' I can meet all my friends, make new ones and eat food that I don't have at San Diego.' Mila and Caija had driven several hours that weekend to participate in the parade. ' A lot of people still remember the history, but we don't want the history to repeat to the next generation,' said Kristensen who lost her father in the genocide. A devout Buddhist, she holds on to her practice as a reminder to extend peace and love to the rest of the world and wants to pass that on to her daughter as well. ' By having a happy moment celebrating Cambodian New Year is to remind the new generation: do not repeat the history, be happy, be blessful,' she said. Sithea said she's seen the festival and parade shift the narrative around Cambodian American identity away from shame for the community to one of belonging and healing intergenerational trauma. 'Some young generation, they don't want to identify themselves as Cambodian because of the Killing Field,' Sithea said of Cambodians who have struggled with an identity crisis. ' But after the parade, they feel that they have pride.' The festival has helped younger Cambodian Americans reconnect with their cultural roots. While older generations were wearing more traditional attire, like a sampot skirt tucked along the waist with a matching av pak blouse, gen Z youth paired casual streetwear with checkered silk krama scarves. ' People didn't let the whole war take away from how they feel about their culture and how they feel about the other people in their culture,' said Khloe Phornsovann, 16, whose paternal grandparents are Laotian from Cambodia. 'It brought them together, if anything.' Sean Soun grew up on the east side of Long Beach and encountered stereotypes about Cambodia being a poor country or people who didn't recognize his background under the umbrella of Asian American identity. He appreciates how the parade presents the richness of his cultural heritage. 'It is good to have these types of festivals to show'em what we're really about,' said the 17-year-old high school senior. 'I love how everybody loves our culture and they wanna be a part of it.'
