Latest news with #KirkHaworth
Spectator
18-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Spectator
Heaven is Angel Delight
I once heard an American complain that, being married to an Englishwoman, he was regularly baffled by the contents of his kitchen cupboards – salad cream, Ambrosia custard and Robinsons barley water. It was 'like industrial processed food but from the Shire'. It is probably this quality of baffling foreigners that allegedly enabled drug runners to use sachets of Angel Delight – the ultimate English ultra-processed food, surely to be found on many a table in Hobbiton, if only for second dinner – to smuggle cocaine into Indonesia. What could be more natural than an Englishman carrying real artificial flavours in his luggage so he didn't have to make do with nasi goreng and chicken satay? (When I went to Japan for a year, my luggage was filled with proper tea bags.) The Balinese police have, however, got wise to their MO, and three Britons have appeared in court charged with drug smuggling, for which they could face execution by firing squad if found guilty. Angel Delight was invented in 1967 in the research department of Bird's in Banbury – right in the heart of the Shire. The market research showed that there was a demand for a bland, creamy-textured instant pudding; and, of course, the dessert company bosses didn't get where they are today without knowing a good thing when they see one. It hit sales of £2 million in the first year. I'd be lying if I said that it tastes as good as I remember it; but whenever I eat Angel Delight I am taken back to my childhood in the 1970s. It's not the flavour in itself – back then, Bird's experimented with blackcurrant, peach and coffee-and-walnut flavours, which have rightly been consigned to the memory hole – so much as the memory of a midweek treat. No one ever planned to have Angel Delight, so there was never any burden of expectation on it; and we would often be 'allowed' to make it ourselves, which made it taste even sweeter than an Arctic roll from the freezer compartment. Attempts to add to it – I have heard tales of crumbling flakes over the chocolate version, or taking a blowtorch to demerara sugar over butterscotch for Angel Delight brûlée – only take that memory away. (I am not even going to mention the decadence of ready-made pots which I saw in the supermarket last week.) The chef Kirk Haworth, winner of The Great British Menu, says that it is the combination of all these factors that gives Angel Delight its power: from the colour and the 'mainstream' flavours to its being 'very attractive textually on the palate', along with the fact that you don't need to be a chef to make it. And, he says, everyone comes back to the first flavours that entered their palate. Last year, as part of a project to reinvent nostalgic classics, his evolution of Angel Delight was as a drink: 'We aerated the flavours, and then we made the colours with desiccated coconut; it was playful and inner-childish but super light and fluffy, when we put gas into the mixture, almost like air.' Kirk runs Plates London, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Old Street, with his sister Keeley. He has no children, but his sister does; has he introduced them to the delights of Delight? He pauses. 'No.'
The Guardian
14-02-2025
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
‘Butter is a perception': inside the UK's first plant-based Michelin-starred restaurant
Kirk Haworth, the owner and head chef of east London restaurant, Plates, hates the word vegan. 'At least seeing the word on a menu,' he says. 'Plant-based cooking is not a trend. Not for me, anyway. I've been doing it for eight years and it's just in my soul now.' And yet this week, Haworth became the first UK chef to win a Michelin star for cooking only plant-based food. Plates is small, with just 25 covers. There are two sittings but it's full until the end of April. The phone is always engaged, and they can only cope with reservations today and tomorrow. For everything else, it's send an email. 'It's been like this since we opened – we had 76,000 people trying to book, and the website crashed,' he says. The restaurant opened a few months after he won the Great British Menu. 'I'm not sure anyone's reviewed it yet because they can't get a table.' The diners, then, are diehard Haworth fans, and come in two sizes. The couple next to me have been waiting nine months for a table (it only opened in July), while a man waiting for the loo says he enjoyed his meal but had been brought by a friend 'and had no idea what this place was'. Except for the two City guys discussing salaries at the bar, people have travelled from outside London, take photos of the outside but rarely of their food, and are noticeable for being dressed up rather than well-dressed. Hoxton is, after all, the ground zero of scuzzy hipsters, and this is an unusual location for a Michelin-starred restaurant – being just off the Old Street roundabout, and down the road from east London's more storied Turkish and Vietnamese restaurants. It used to a be a restaurant/bar that closed after the pandemic – as did about 14% of restaurants in central London – but it was a vegan one, suggesting there's something in the filtered tap water. To the food. It is a tasting menu, but a generous one. Among Haworth's favourites is a dish of slow-cooked leeks that comes crowned with a handful of frozen verjus (pressed unripe grapes). He also likes the barbecued mushrooms. But it's the ones that should, by rights, be meat that stand out. A lasagne that feels like lasagne except made from mung and urad beans; the whole thing is then served – as if to remind you, again, of what it isn't – with a thumb of cucumber. Then there is bread, or rather, a bread-ish croissant rolled into a swirl and served with green 'butter' made from cashews. Asked why the non-butter butter is still called butter, Haworth says simply: 'Butter is a perception.' Nowhere on the menu is the word 'vegan'. Nor 'plant-based', 'dairy-free' or even 'cow-lite'. 'Look, I hate imitation,' he says of the now popular fake meat and cheese market. Although beetroot has an uncanny ability to mimic beef, the meat and fish are not so much doctored as completely swapped out. Everything here strikes a balance between casual and assiduity. Even its name, Plates, betrays nothing except that there will be a lot of them. The semi-open kitchen, which has that monastic serenity you only get when food is not cooked to order, is surrounded by a chef's counter made from four felled London trees. Customers sit on mustard banquettes, the large Holiday Inn opposite hidden by cafe curtains. There is only one loo, but it has a huge basin carved from polished rock. The Michelin inspectors described it as cosy rather than cramped. But what looks cosy, in other words, is actually more posh. In the truest three-figure Michelin tradition, there are some at-table sauce pouring performances. Plumes of dry ice fog hover over some dishes and you are told which cutlery to use, and in which order. The mocktails – including the 'yuzuade' – are fun but unnecessary. And some of the textures – some teeth-squeaking puffed rice – are a little overwhelming. Then there is the price – £90 before you've had anything to drink, which feels a little mighty for vegetables. Still, there are enough single diners dropping £150 to remind you this is a destination. The Michelin system is not what it used to be. According to a report by University College London, starred restaurants are statistically more likely to close down than highly rated venues without the accolade. At this week's ceremony, there were fewer new one and two-star restaurants compared with last year, and no new three-star additions. But that doesn't mean it's not difficult to get one. 'I'd like to say it's harder to get a star with plant-based food, but I've cooked both and it's hard all round,' says Haworth, who trained at the French Laundry which is famous for its oysters and caviar. The meal is finished with a cacao gateaux poured over with raw caramel. This is the dish that won him the Great British Menu. As such, it is twice the size of everything else. When it first opened, there were three desserts on the menu. When they drop a course, it's the risotto that makes way, not the rice pudding. Though Haworth concedes the current food system is not sustainable, it was only after being diagnosed with Lyme disease that heexplored a plant-based diet, finding it helped mitigate the symptoms. 'But that's just me. Most of the people who come in aren't vegan. I'd say 99%. That must show you something'.
The Independent
12-02-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
Vegan restaurant becomes first to win Michelin star
A London restaurant has become the first to be awarded a Michelin star by serving a plant-based menu. The Michelin Guide celebrated its 125th anniversary, with this year's ceremony held at the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum in Glasgow on Monday (10 February). At the event, 22 new restaurants were awarded their first Michelin star, with nine in London, three in Ireland and two in Scotland. Cardiff also secured its first star. Meanwhile, five Green stars were given to restaurants for their exceptional commitment to sustainability. Based in Old Street, Plates London became the first vegan restaurant to ever be awarded a star in the accolade's history. Kirk Haworth, chef and co-founder of Plates, first began exploring a vegan diet after being diagnosed with Lyme disease in 2016. He took his classical training and 'inventively' adapted it to his health needs. Plates serves a meat-free, fish-free, gluten-free, dairy-free, organic menu that does not use refined sugars. 'The word trend is something that comes and goes, but what I do and the place that it's been created from is definitely not a trend,' Haworth told The Independent. 'It's got so much purpose and soul that if it was a trend, it wouldn't last. But, hopefully it inspires more restaurants to celebrate fruits and vegetables and get creative with it.' The chef, who was the first to cook up a vegan-only diet on the BBC cooking competition Great British Menu, said he found it initially difficult to do classical cooking without meat or fish. 'Trying to work out the formula of our food and how to create without any kind of meat and fish, which is what what I was trained in all my life, was super, super challenging,' said Haworth. He added: 'We have so many incredible, classical chefs. When you're a young chef, you learn how to make a red wine sauce or a terrine. But, in this kind of space, there isn't really that much history. I look at that as a positive and that we can create our own rulebook, you know, there are no rules, so it's kind of like a blank canvas, which is cool.' Born in Blackburn, and coming from a family of Michelin-starred chefs, Haworth opened the flagship restaurant with his sister Keeley, and believes 'it's a great moment for northern cooking'. 'Celebrating with Mark Burchill [who was awarded his third star [for Aughton eatery Moor Hall] who I grew up with in kitchens, and to celebrate with him was just amazing,' he continued. For Haworth, this is 'just the beginning'. What's next? 'Three stars' he said.
The Guardian
11-02-2025
- Business
- The Guardian
Plates London becomes first vegan restaurant in UK to win a Michelin star
A vegan restaurant in London has become the first in the UK to be awarded a Michelin star. Plates London, located on Old Street, serves a fully plant-based menu and chef Kirk Haworth impressed judges by 'taking his classical training and inventively adapting it to a vegan diet', Michelin said. The ceremony to mark the annual Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland was held in Glasgow on Monday. Asked at the event what he loved about cooking vegan dishes, Haworth said: 'Trying to get rid of that word is everything that I love about it. It's just about flavour, that's all it's about. Flavour, excitement, innovation, and trying to take it to a new space of deliciousness.' The number of vegans in the UK increased by 1.1 million between 2023 and 2024, according to research conducted by Finder last year. It estimated that the number of people who had adopted a plant-based diet was 2.5 million, representing 4.7% of the adult population. Plates London was one of 26 restaurants given an accolade at the ceremony. Moor Hall, a modern European restaurant in the village of Aughton about 10 miles from Liverpool, became only the 10th restaurant across the UK and Ireland to hold the coveted three stars. It opened in 2017 and received its first two Michelin stars in the two following years. Michelin said: 'At Moor Hall, Chef Mark Birchall and his team have continued to hone their craft and have now achieved new levels of excellence. The ingredients, many from the kitchen garden, are outstanding; the chefs' culinary technique is hugely impressive; and the judgment of flavours, of when to prioritise simplicity and when to add complexity, is exemplary.' Birchall said: 'I think you kind of dream about these things. You kind of almost act it out in your mind of how you would be, but the the emotion is incredible.' A first Michelin star was awarded to 22 new restaurants, including nine in London, three in Ireland and two in Scotland, while Gorse in Cardiff became the first restaurant in the Welsh capital to achieve the feat. Greek restaurant Oma, in Borough Market, London, received its first star after it had earlier won the Opening of the Year award. This year's ceremony, in which five new Green stars were awarded for commitment to sustainability, was held as the Michelin Guide celebrates its 125th anniversary.
Yahoo
11-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Vegan restaurant first to be awarded Michelin star in UK and Ireland
A vegan restaurant has become the first be to awarded a Michelin star as 26 of the accolades were given in the annual Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland. Several other restaurants, including one serving the famous The Ritz hotel in London, were also awarded three and two stars at a ceremony in Glasgow on Monday. Plates London, located on Old Street, serves a fully plant-based menu and chef Kirk Haworth wowed judges by 'taking his classical training and inventively adapting it to a vegan diet', Michelin said. Asked what he loved about cooking elevated vegan dishes at the ceremony, Mr Haworth said: 'Trying to get rid of that word is everything that I love about it. 'It's just about flavour, that's all it's about. Flavour, excitement, innovation, and trying to take it to a new space of deliciousness.' Every MICHELIN-Star Restaurant in Great Britain & Ireland 2025 Explore the full list of restaurants with One, Two or Three MICHELIN Stars in England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland — The MICHELIN Guide (@MichelinGuideUK) February 10, 2025 Moor Hall, located in the village of Aughton around 10 miles from Liverpool, opened in 2017 and received its first two Michelin stars in the two following years. The modern European restaurant becomes only the 10th restaurant across the UK and Ireland to currently hold the three stars. Michelin said: 'At Moor Hall, Chef Mark Birchall and his team have continued to hone their craft and have now achieved new levels of excellence. 'The ingredients, many from the kitchen garden, are outstanding; the chefs' culinary technique is hugely impressive; and the judgment of flavours, of when to prioritise simplicity and when to add complexity, is exemplary.' Reacting to the third star, Mr Birchall said: 'I think you kind of dream about these things. 'You kind of almost act it out in your mind of how you would be, but the the emotion is incredible.' Moor Hall: Why The Inspectors Awarded Three MICHELIN Stars@restmoorhall @MarkDBirchall The UK has a new Three-Star restaurant, so we asked a MICHELIN Guide Inspector to explain just why Moor Hall is so deserving of the awardhttps:// — The MICHELIN Guide (@MichelinGuideUK) February 10, 2025 The chef said the secret to Moor Hall's success was having a good team and making all its guests 'feel so special'. Judges said The Ritz Restaurant was 'currently at the peak of its powers' and had earned two stars after 'taking classically based dishes… and adding increasing amounts of originality and modernity'. Soho's Humble Chicken and neighbourhood restaurant hide and fox, in Kent, also each picked up second stars for their 'thrilling cuisine' and 'dishes that succeed on every level' respectively. A first Michelin star was awarded to 22 new restaurants, including nine in London, three in Ireland and two in Scotland, while Gorse in Cardiff became the first restaurant in the Welsh capital to achieve the feat. Greek restaurant Oma, in Borough Market on London's South Bank, received its first star after it had earlier won the Opening of the Year award. Chef Jorge Paredes said: '(I am) super excited. It's a dream come true for me. '(It has) taken me a long time to show where I am, but now I'm very happy.' This year's ceremony, which also saw five new Green stars awarded for commitment to sustainability, was held as the Michelin Guide celebrates its 125th anniversary. Speaking at the ceremony, international director Gwendal Poullennec said the company was 'incredibly proud' of the milestone. He said: 'It's an opportunity to celebrate the core value that has shaped our identity since 1900 – unearthing exceptional gastronomic talent, showcasing local food culture and announcing life's most meaningful moments, whether shared around the table with loved ones, enjoyed in a hotel for a well-deserved break, or marking life's biggest celebration.' The full list of award-winning restaurants was: Three stars– Moor Hall, in Aughton, Lancashire Two stars– hide and fox – Saltwood, Kent– The Ritz Restaurant – London– Humble Chicken – London One star– Oma – London– Mark Poynton at Caistor Hall – Caistor St Edmund, Norfolk– Avery – Edinburgh, Scotland– The Morrison Room – Maynooth, Ireland– Wilsons – Bristol– Anglothai – London– Cornus – London– 33 The Homend – Ledbury, Herefordshire– Gorse – Cardiff, Wales– Starling – Esher, Surrey– Lita – London– Lyla – Edinburgh– 64 Goodge Street – London– Mauro Colagreco at Raffles London at the Owo – London– Skof – Manchester– Lignum – Bullaun, County Galway, Ireland– Forge – Middleton Tyas, North Yorkshire– Caractere – London– Row on 5 – London– Ballyfin – Ballyfin, County Laois, Ireland– Dosa – London– Plates London – London
