Latest news with #Kolhapuri
The Print
an hour ago
- Business
- The Print
Kolhapuris get Prada makeover at Rs 1.2 lakh: Where's the credit, fume activists as label acknowledges ‘inspiration'
'I am deeply annoyed and disgusted by the way Prada has appropriated something deeply Indian and traditional — without giving any recognition to the craftspeople or the culture it comes from. This is a metaphor for how we in India often undervalue our own heritage, dismissing it as primitive or merely 'handicraft,' while the world repackages it as luxury,' designer and activist Laila Tyabji, who has worked with craftspersons for decades, told PTI. That the GI-tagged footwear, a symbol of Indian craft that goes back centuries was appropriated by the Italian luxury label which featured it in Spring/Summer 2026 show, led to a massive debate on cultural theft and giving artisans their rightful due. New Delhi, Jun 28 (PTI) The humble kolhapuri, style statement for affordable ethnic elegance and simply staple wear for many, catapulted to the rarefied runways of Milan with Prada rebranding the handcrafted chappal 'leather flat sandals' at Rs 1.2 lakh. The outrage was instant and intense. 'It's time we acknowledged that India holds extraordinary skills and knowledge systems. We must recognise, protect, and proudly present them to the world—before others steal and sell our identity back to us,' the Dastkar chairperson added. Several days later, as the debate escalated in India, Prada acknowledged the connection and said the design is 'inspired' by the Indian handcrafted footwear. It said the sandal featured in the men's 2026 fashion show is still at the design stage and none of the pieces worn by models on the ramp are confirmed to be commercialised. 'We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft,' Prada's group head for corporate social responsibility, Lorenzo Bertelli, said in reply to a letter by the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA). The industry lobby had sought exploration collaborations and fair compensation to the artisans and also adherence to ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights. For many though, the initial absence of credit for Kolhapuris, paraded as cutting-edge high fashion for clients who are the polar opposite of the regular Kolhapuri wearer, was the most important takeaway from the glam Milan moment. Kolhapuri chappals are typically handcrafted and manufactured in the Maharashtra town of Kolhapur, from where they take their name, and the surrounding districts of Sangli, Satara and Solapur. The craft has a legacy dating back to the 12th or 13th century. Originally patronised by the royals of the region, Kolhapuri sandals were crafted by the local cobbler community using vegetable-tanned leather and were entirely handmade — using no nails or synthetic components. They're also known for their signature T-strap shape, detailed braiding, and open-toe design — a perfect blend of practicality and fashion. In 2019, Kolhapuri chappals were granted GI tag status by the government of India, recognising them as a unique product tied to eight districts across Maharashtra and Karnataka. This legal status protects the craftsmanship and origin from imitation, and helps promote economic security for rural artisans. A PIL against Prada could well be in the works. GI expert and heritage rights advocate Ganesh Hingare is already collating documents to sue the luxury fashion brand for what he describes as 'intellectual property infringement under Section 22 of the GI Act'. 'This isn't the first time India has faced such appropriation. We've fought and won similar battles before — like in the turmeric patent case and the basmati rice case in the US. 'This is not just about a pair of chappals. This is about cultural theft, disrespect to artisans, and violation of India's GI laws. An apology is not just due to Kolhapur, but India,' Hingare, who has worked on over 100 GI-tagged products, including 59 from Maharashtra alone, told PTI. In Maharashtra, BJP Rajya Sabha MP Dhananjay Mahadik, who belongs to Kolhapur, led a delegation of traditional Kolhapuri chappal artisans to meet Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis. Social media is also abuzz with accusations of cultural appropriation. Global footwear brand Bata called out Prada for rebranding what 'India has cherished for centuries'. 'It's a reminder that heritage always leads, and trends follow,' said Deepika Deepti, head of marketing at Bata India. 'The Kolhapuri chappal is not a 'design discovery' — it's a living tradition. At Bata India, we've proudly brought this craftsmanship to millions, long before it appeared on international runways. Real originality doesn't come with a luxury tag — it comes with legacy,' she said. The Prada projection has had an unexpected fallout. In Delhi's popular Janpath market, Ashok Grover has been selling a wide range of Kolhapuri chappals since the 1970s. Demand has been dwindling but suddenly there is a flood of inquiries. 'These luxury companies first invest, then go all out on marketing, create hype around products — which aren't even theirs — and finally slap an extravagant price on them. I saw the picture of that chappal — at best, it wouldn't cost more than Rs 2,000 to Rs 3,000. And here, I can't even sell the same article for Rs 1,000,' said the owner of Maujri Collections, one of the oldest shops in Janpath. When he started his business, the slippers were being sold for just Rs 10. So when and how did Kolhapuris really become a rage, part of the quintessential kurta, pyjama and ethnic jhola look loved by college students, aspiring politicians, and so many more. Some cite the 1979 Hindi blockbuster 'Suhaag' in which Amitabh Bachchan — who plays a cop — has a memorable exchange with a corrupt seth (businessman) : 'Yeh kya hai?' 'Chappal' 'Kaunsa?' 'Kolhapuri', as he takes off his slipper and slaps him hard with it. It's not just Kolhapuri chappals that have fallen prey to cultural appropriation. Experts also cite the humble Indian jhola, typically priced between Rs 200–300 in local markets, now being sold as a Rs 4,000 'India souvenir tote' on luxury American retail site Nordstrom. Traditional dupattas have been rebranded as 'Scandinavian scarves', while intricately embroidered lehengas are being passed off as trendy 'Y2K maxi skirts'. On the flip side, some fashion experts believe the sudden global attention on Kolhapur chappals can help fuel the revival of this traditional unisex footwear. Celebrity fashion designer Bhawna Rao believes the moment will 'spark curiosity, draw investment, and invite younger generations to engage with heritage crafts in new ways'. Shirin Mann, founder of footwear label NEEDLEDUST — known for reinventing the traditional Indian 'jutti' — said Prada has brought 'massive recall value' to the Kolhapuri chappal. 'Until now, it hadn't been considered part of the 'cool' or aspirational footwear space in India's luxury market… I truly believe in the ripple effect of what Prada has done. 'While it may not be a direct collaboration, the global visibility can be powerful, boosting awareness, reviving demand, creating jobs, and most importantly, sparking a renewed appreciation for the craftsmanship of the artisans,' said Mann, adding that global reinterpretations are inevitable, but they 'should come with context, credit, and ideally, collaboration'. PTI MG AA MIN MIN MIN This report is auto-generated from PTI news service. ThePrint holds no responsibility for its content.
News18
3 hours ago
- Entertainment
- News18
Vir Das Roasts $1300 Prada Kolhapuris, Says ‘It Better Come With A Beating From Mom'
Last Updated: Kolhapuri appeared in Prada's Men's show in Milan and Vir Das joked that if someone pays $1300 for these chappals, they deserve a visit from an Indian mother India has always influenced fashion, but it often goes unnoticed. Now, the traditional leather sandals, Kolhapuri, appeared in Prada's Men's 2026 show in Milan. While experts call it creative styling, many Indians are upset, feeling the brand copied their heritage without giving credit. The debate got even louder when actor and comedian Vir Das joined in and joked that if someone pays $1300 for these chappals, they deserve a visit from an Indian mother to teach them a lesson. Taking to X (Formerly Twitter), the Delhi Belly star wrote, 'If you spend 1300 dollars on Prada's ripped off Kolhapuri chappals, the fee should include a visit from an Indian mother who shows up, and beats you with them." If you spend 1300 dollars on Pradas ripped off Kolhapuri chappals, the fee should include a visit from an Indian mother who shows up, and beats you with them.— Vir Das (@thevirdas) June 27, 2025 Reacting to the post, a user wrote, 'If only Prada knew the weaponic history of the Chappal, Pravda would've been too woke to appropriate the design." Another shared, 'Paid $1300 for something every Indian kid got for free, with better range, more precision, and zero refunds. Respect the OG weapon." 'I would dip that chappal in Gobar first before handing it to aunty," a comment read. An individual stated, 'Yaar, mothers won't use Kolhapur chappals lest they get damaged. For that special purpose, there were always some 'cheap & best' hawai chappals bought off a thela which came into the streets on Sundays." One more added, 'My mom once slapped me for buying Rs 50 roadside momos. Imagine her reaction to $1300 chappals." After the backlash, Prada finally admitted that their 2026 Men's collection featured Kolhapuri chappals as part of the design. Lorenzo Bertelli, a representative from the brand, told Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), 'We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship." First Published:
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Business Standard
4 hours ago
- Politics
- Business Standard
Prada admits Kolhapuri chappals inspired footwear collection after backlash
Days after featuring footwear inspired by Kolhapuri chappals in its Milan show, luxury brand Prada has acknowledged its source of inspiration. The brand has admitted that footwear showcased in its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear line was inspired by India's traditional Kolhapuri chappals. 'Kolhapuri chappals inspiration for footwear featured in our Milan show,' the Italian luxury label said, according to a report by the Press Trust of India. The admission comes amid growing backlash in India, where both officials and artisans accused Prada of cultural appropriation and overlooking the heritage behind the handmade leather sandals. The footwear, presented at Milan Fashion Week, closely resembled Kolhapuri chappals — traditional open-toe leather sandals made for generations by artisans in Maharashtra and Karnataka. Prada responds to online backlash In a letter addressed to Lalit Gandhi, President of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group's Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, wrote: 'We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship.' Earlier this week, BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik led a delegation of Kolhapuri chappal artisans to meet Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis. The delegation submitted a letter calling for steps to protect the product's Geographical Indication (GI) rights and ensure the cultural significance of the footwear is upheld. 'Designs not finalised for production' In his reply, the brand also clarified that the designs are still under development: 'Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialised.' The brand added: 'We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities.' Meanwhile, Bertelli also expressed interest in further talks: 'We would welcome the opportunity for further discussion and will set a follow-up with the relevant Prada teams.' Prada commits to heritage recognition Bertelli closed his letter by stating: 'Prada strives to pay homage and recognize the value of such specialized craftspeople that represent an unrivalled standard of excellence and heritage.' He reaffirmed the brand's willingness to engage further: 'We would welcome the opportunity for further discussion and will set a follow-up with the relevant Prada teams.' Previously, on June 23, MACCIA had written to Prada after the Milan show, criticising the brand for showcasing sandals labelled only as 'leather sandals' with no reference to their Indian origins. It stated: 'It has come to public attention that the collection includes footwear designs that bear a close resemblance to Kolhapuri Chappals (Footwear), a traditional handcrafted leather sandal that has been awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019.' Symbol of cultural identity In his letter, Lalit Gandhi highlighted the cultural and economic significance of Kolhapuri chappals: 'Kolhapuri Chappals represent centuries-old craftsmanship rooted in the cultural fabric of Maharashtra, India. These products are not only symbolic of regional identity, but they also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts.' Gandhi also urged Prada to acknowledge its source of inspiration and explore ways to support the artisans: 'While we appreciate global fashion houses drawing inspiration from diverse cultures, we are concerned that this particular design appears to have been commercialised without due acknowledgment, credit, or collaboration with the artisan communities who have preserved this heritage through generations.' He added: 'We kindly urge Prada to acknowledge the inspiration behind the design publicly, explore possibilities for collaboration or fair compensation that could benefit the artisan communities involved and consider supporting ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights.'
Straits Times
5 hours ago
- Business
- Straits Times
Sandal scandal: Prada credits new design's Indian legacy amid furore
Luxury fashion powerhouse Prada has acknowledged the ancient Indian roots of its new sandal design. PHOTO: AFP NEW DEHLI/MILAN - Luxury fashion powerhouse Prada has acknowledged the ancient Indian roots of its new sandal design after the debut of the open-toe footwear sparked a furore among Indian artisans and politicians thousands of miles from the catwalk in Italy. Images from Prada's fashion show in Milan last weekend showed models wearing leather sandals with a braided design that resembled handmade Kolhapuri slippers with designs dating back to the 12th century. A wave of criticism in the media and from lawmakers followed over the Italian brand's lack of public acknowledgement of the Indian sandal design, which is named after a city in the western state of Maharashtra. Mr Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada's owners, responded to the sandal scandal in a letter to a trade group on June 27 recognising their Indian heritage. 'We acknowledge that the sandals... are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage,' Mr Bertelli, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility, wrote in the letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, seen by Reuters. The sandals are at an early stage of design and it is not certain they will be commercialised, but Prada is open to a 'dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans' and will arrange follow-up meetings, he wrote. A Prada spokesperson issued a statement acknowledging the sandal's inspiration from India, adding the company has 'always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions'. Prada products are beyond the reach of most Indians. Its men's leather sandals retail for US$844 (S$1,077) and up, while the Kolhapuri slippers, sold in Indian shops and street markets, start at about US$12. India's luxury market is small but growing fast, with rising numbers of rich people buying Louis Vuitton bags, Lamborghini cars, luxury homes and watches. Conversely, Indian culture and crafts are increasingly finding their way into global brand designs. High-end jeweller Bulgari offers a US$16,000 Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women. Bertelli's homage to Indian design was sent in a response to a complaint from the head of the trade group that represents 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans, as the online uproar gathered momentum. 'From the dusty lanes of Kolhapur to the glitzy runways of Milan... will the world finally give credit where it's due?' India's DNA News posted on X. Mr Sambhaji Chhatrapati from the Kolhapur Royal family told Reuters by phone he was upset that craftsmen had not been acknowledged for the 'history and heritage of 150 years'. Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More, however, said images of the Prada sandal were bringing cheer to some artisans as they show their traditional product going global. 'They are happy that someone is recognising their work,' he said. REUTERS Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.
Asharq Al-Awsat
6 hours ago
- Business
- Asharq Al-Awsat
Sandal Scandal: Prada Credits New Design's Indian Legacy
Luxury fashion powerhouse Prada has acknowledged the ancient Indian roots of its new sandal design after the debut of the open-toe footwear sparked a furor among Indian artisans and politicians thousands of miles from the catwalk in Italy. Images from Prada's fashion show in Milan last weekend showed models wearing leather sandals with a braided design that resembled handmade Kolhapuri slippers with designs dating back to the 12th century. A wave of criticism in the media and from lawmakers followed over the Italian brand's lack of public acknowledgement of the Indian sandal design, which is named after a city in the western state of Maharashtra. Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada's owners, responded to the sandal scandal in a letter to a trade group on Friday recognizing their Indian heritage. "We acknowledge that the sandals... are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage," Bertelli, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility, wrote in the letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, seen by Reuters. The sandals are at an early stage of design and it is not certain they will be commercialized, but Prada is open to a "dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans" and will arrange follow-up meetings, he wrote. A Prada spokesperson issued a statement acknowledging the sandal's inspiration from India, adding the company has "always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions". Prada products are beyond the reach of most Indians. Its men's leather sandals retail for $844 and up, while the Kolhapuri slippers, sold in Indian shops and street markets, start at about $12. India's luxury market is small but growing fast, with rising numbers of rich people buying Louis Vuitton bags, Lamborghini cars, luxury homes and watches. Conversely, Indian culture and crafts are increasingly finding their way into global brand designs. High-end jeweler Bulgari offers a $16,000 Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women. Bertelli's homage to Indian design was sent in a response to a complaint from the head of the trade group that represents 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans, as the online uproar gathered momentum. "From the dusty lanes of Kolhapur to the glitzy runways of Milan... will the world finally give credit where it's due?" India's DNA News posted on X. Sambhaji Chhatrapati from the Kolhapur Royal family told Reuters by phone he was upset that craftsmen had not been acknowledged for the "history and heritage of 150 years." Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More, however, said images of the Prada sandal were bringing cheer to some artisans as they show their traditional product going global. "They are happy that someone is recognising their work," he said.
