Latest news with #KolhapuriChappals
Buzz Feed
2 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Buzz Feed
Indian Roots, Foreign Labels: Without A Single Credit Line. And Crazy Profits
1. Dior Controversy: Used Indian embroidery, mirror work, and Mughal motifs in several collections without crediting artisans The 2023 Mumbai show featured Indian craftsmanship, but the press focus was entirely on Dior's global prestige, with little to no recognition of the local artisans behind the work. 2. Prada Controversy: Used brocade, sari-like draping, bindis, and Indian footwear silhouettes without citing origins The 2018 collection featured Banarasi-style jackets marketed as "futuristic brocade".And now in 2025, it has shamelessly gone ahead to replicate India's heritage "Kolhapuri Chappals" which have been handcrafted for years in Maharashtra and Karnataka, simply rebranding them as "leather sandals". After ample backlash from social media, they've finally admitted that they were "inspired" by Indian heritage. 3. Gucci Controversy: Frequently used turbans, paisleys, and embroidery styles with zero mention of their Indian heritage Example: 2018 runway featured a Sikh-style turban, sparking backlash and being called 'culturally insensitive.' 4. Isabel Marant Controversy: Used mirror work, traditional Banjara tribal embroidery, and called it 'boho chic' The designs of 2016 mirrored styles from Gujarat and Rajasthan without collaboration or attribution whatsoever. 5. Jean Paul Gaultier's 'Princes et Maharajas' featured turbaned looks, ornate jewelled crowns, embroidered bandh-gala jackets, lehenga-style skirts, jodhpuris, maang‑tikkas, and bindis directly evoking Indian royal and bridal aesthetics The Fall 2007 Couture segment was framed as a spectacle of exotic 'Maharajas,' presented via a generic Western lens of aristocratic drama, not as a respectful homage or collaboration with Indian artisans. 6. Tory Burch Controversy: The items manufactured in India and 'inspired' by Indian fashion lacked any cultural context, such as the spiritual symbolism or heritage Released multiple 'mirror-studded' pieces, maxi dresses, skirts, and tops, adorned with the traditional sheesha (mirror-work) embroidery that originates from Indian regions like Gujarat and argue calling it merely 'inspired' and omitting artisan recognition turns a sacred cultural tradition into a superficial trend, and that the high retail price (over $400) further disconnects the craft from its indigenous roots. Why It's Problematic
Hans India
15 hours ago
- Business
- Hans India
Kolhapuri Chappals: Prada accepts Indian craftsmanship, open for meaningful exchange with artisans
New Delhi: After facing severe backlash, Italian fashion house Prada has officially admitted that the Kolhapuri Chappals, featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show, is inspired by India's handcrafted footwear traditions. In a letter to Lalit Gandhi, president of Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry, and Agriculture, Prada noted that it is 'open for meaningful exchange with artisans'. 'We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship,' said Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, in a letter to Gandhi. The luxury fashion house came under fire after showcasing the sandals during its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show in Milan, priced at more than Rs 1 lakh as against the Rs 300-Rs 1500 sold in Kolhapur's markets. After images of the collection surfaced online, social media users and Indian officials criticised the label for failing to credit the heritage behind the designs. They accused Prada of cultural appropriation and disregard for the traditional artisans who have crafted these leather sandals for generations. Gandhi had in a letter to Prada shared concerns that 'the collection includes footwear designs that bear a close resemblance to Kolhapuri Chappals (Footwear) a traditional handcrafted leather sandal that has been awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019'. Besides representing the 'centuries-old regional identity of Maharashtra', the Kolhapuri Chappals also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts, Gandhi wrote. Gandhi called out Prada for commercialising the centuries-old footwear designs 'without due acknowledgment, credit, or collaboration with the artisan communities', and urged them to 'consider supporting ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights'. In his response, Bertelli wrote, 'Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design. Development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialised. 'We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft,' he said.
NDTV
18 hours ago
- Entertainment
- NDTV
Prada Acknowledges Being Inspired By Indian Kolhapuri Chappals Featured In 2026 Collection
Italian luxury couture label, Prada has been facing major backlash post featuring footwear that strongly looks like the traditional Indian Kolhapuri chappals in their latest Spring/Summer 2026 collection showcased at the Paris Men's Fashion Week 2025. Artisans from around India and particularly Maharashtra have raised their voices after footwear similar to the famous Kolhapuri chappals featured in Prada's show. They went onto allege a violation of geographical identification (GI) rights in this matter. What's more, BJP MP, Dhananjay Mahadik on Thursday, June 26. 2025 led a delegation of artisans who make the traditional Kolhapuri chappals to meet Maharashtra CM, Devendra Fadnavis. They presented a letter urging him to look into the violation and preserve the product which is a symbol of the state's cultural heritage. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Prada (@prada) The Italian fashion house finally acknowledged that the fetaured footwear pieces were isnpired by the Indian handcrafted pieces. According to news agency Press Trust Of India (PTI), "We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage." View this post on Instagram A post shared by Prada (@prada) Further in a letter penned to Lalit Gandhi, president of Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility expressed, "We deeply recognize the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship." Lorenzo Bertelli's letter is in response to one written by Gandhi after the backlash broke out over Prada's kolhapuri footwear fetaured in its latest fashion showcase in Paris. In the show notes, Prada had described the footwear as leather sandals with no reference to its Indian roots, that evoked outrage from many in India's fashion universe as well as the traditional artisans who make the Kolhapuri chappals in the western Maharashtrain region. In his letter to the brand Lalit Gandhi wrote, "I am writing to respectfully draw your attention to a matter concerning your recently unveiled Men's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, which was showcased on 23rd June 2025 in Milan." He further added, "It has come to public attention that the collection includes footwear designs that bear a close resemblance to Kolhapuri Chappals (Footwear) a traditional handcrafted leather sandal that has been awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019." He emphasised the roots and heritage of the Indian footwear pieces. "Kolhapuri Chappals represent centuries-old craftsmanship rooted in the cultural fabric of Maharashtra, India. These products are not only symbolic of regional identity, but they also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts." He also requested for due acknowledgement for the Kolhapuri chappals by Prada in this matter. "While we appreciate global fashion houses drawing inspiration from diverse cultures, we are concerned that this particular design appears to have been commercialized without due acknowledgment, credit, or collaboration with the artisan communities who have preserved this heritage through generations." Lalit Gandhi added how the iconic Indian footwear are symbol of Maharashtra's cultural identity and support livelihoods of local artisans. "We kindly urge Prada to acknowledge the inspiration behind the design publicly, explore possibilities for collaboration or fair compensation that could benefit the artisan communities involved and consider supporting ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights." Lastly he called out for ethical upholding of standards in global fashion by Prada. "Such a gesture would not only uphold ethical standards in global fashion, but also foster a meaningful exchange between heritage craftsmanship and contemporary design. We trust that a brand of Prada's stature and influence will take this concern in the right spirit and initiate a thoughtful response." In his response, Lorezo Bertelli wrote, "Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design. development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialized." He further added, "We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft." Lorenzo Bertelli closed his letter to Lalit Gandhi with these words. "Prada strives to pay homage and recognize the value of such specialized craftspeople that represent an unrivalled standard of excellence and heritage. We would welcome the opportunity for further discussion and will set a follow up with the relevant Prada teams."
Fashion Value Chain
19 hours ago
- Business
- Fashion Value Chain
From Kolhapur to Couture: When Global Fashion Labels Ignore Their Roots
Exploring the fashion industry's habit of borrowing traditional crafts without acknowledging the communities that birthed them In the ever-evolving world of fashion, where trends travel faster than light and aesthetics blend across borders, inspiration is the beating heart of design. However, when that inspiration stems from deeply rooted cultural crafts and is then stripped of its context, history, and rightful credit, it becomes something else entirely—cultural appropriation dressed in luxury fabric. One of the most recent cases to ignite this conversation is the global luxury brand Prada releasing a collection of leather sandals that closely mirror the iconic Kolhapuri chappal from India. These sandals, with their braided leather, flat soles, and T-strap design, are nearly indistinguishable from the traditional handmade footwear that originated in Maharashtra centuries ago. Yet nowhere in Prada's promotional campaigns, product descriptions, or credits was the word Kolhapur mentioned. This glaring omission is part of a growing trend in the fashion industry—the silent borrowing of heritage. Kolhapuri Chappals: A Legacy Beyond Leather The Kolhapuri chappal is not just a sandal; it's a symbol of India's artisanal heritage. With over a thousand years of history, this handcrafted footwear is made using vegetable-tanned leather and intricate hand-braiding techniques passed down through generations. It is environmentally friendly, culturally significant, and legally protected by a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in India. The chappals were originally made by the cobbler community in Kolhapur and nearby regions such as Athani and Sangli. Traditionally worn by both royalty and rural populations, these sandals have adapted over centuries but have always remained rooted in their cultural and geographic identity. When a global brand recreates this design and presents it without any mention of its origin, it erases not only the artisans but the entire cultural legacy behind the product. The Pattern of Appropriation in Fashion Unfortunately, Prada's Kolhapuri-inspired sandals are not an isolated incident. Luxury fashion brands have long drawn from the visual and material cultures of various global communities—particularly those from the Global South—without acknowledgment or compensation. Here are just a few examples that demonstrate how widespread this issue is: Ikat (India, Indonesia, Guatemala) Ikat is a dyeing technique where the yarns are tie-dyed before weaving, producing a signature blurred pattern. It is found across several countries, with rich variations in India (Telangana, Odisha, Gujarat), Indonesia (especially Bali), and Latin America (notably Guatemala). Luxury brands have frequently featured Ikat-like patterns in collections described as 'bohemian' or 'abstract tribal,' rarely acknowledging the centuries-old traditions or the regions they originate from. Bandhani & Leheriya (India) These traditional Indian tie-dye methods, native to Rajasthan and Gujarat, are labor-intensive and passed down through family lineages. Their dotted and striped patterns often appear in Western collections as playful or exotic prints—usually with no mention of Bandhani or Leheriya, let alone the artisans who make them. Shibori (Japan) Shibori, a resist dyeing technique from Japan, is known for its striking indigo patterns. Yet, several Western designers have introduced 'modern tie-dye' pieces that closely resemble Shibori, reducing the technique to a seasonal aesthetic without cultural recognition. Otomi Embroidery (Mexico) The bold, colorful embroidery made by the Otomi people of Mexico is often replicated in home décor and fashion items under vague labels like 'folk art embroidery' or 'vibrant ethnic patterns.' The lack of attribution not only denies cultural credit but also devalues the original craft in global markets. Bogolanfini or Mud Cloth (Mali, Africa) This handwoven fabric dyed with fermented mud carries deep cultural symbolism in Mali. Its motifs are widely used in global streetwear and high fashion collections under broad labels like 'tribal print' or 'African-inspired,' often with no reference to the Bogolan craft or the meaning behind its symbols. The Consequences: Economic and Cultural Erasure When global fashion brands co-opt traditional crafts without acknowledgment, the damage is not merely symbolic—it is profoundly economic, cultural, and systemic. This form of erasure affects entire communities whose livelihoods and identities are tied to these crafts. Economic Injustice to Artisans Traditional artisans—many of whom come from marginalized or rural communities—rely on their craft not only as a creative outlet but as a means of survival. When a global brand mimics their work without collaboration or compensation, it undercuts the artisan's ability to compete in the market. The luxury version often carries a far higher price tag, marketed with the sheen of exclusivity, while the original makers struggle to find buyers or gain visibility beyond local bazaars. Moreover, these brands profit exponentially from designs that are part of an artisan's inherited knowledge system. The imbalance of economic benefit—where the creators remain in poverty and the imitators profit—is a clear case of exploitation disguised as innovation. Loss of Authenticity and Dilution of Technique Traditional crafts are often rooted in specific processes, materials, and philosophies. For example, Kolhapuri chappals use vegetable-tanned leather, which is eco-friendly and part of a slow, skill-intensive process. When global brands replicate the form using synthetic materials or factory-made shortcuts, the result may visually resemble the original, but it lacks the integrity, symbolism, and sustainability that define the craft. This mass-market reinterpretation flattens the complexity of traditional knowledge. Centuries-old weaving techniques, dyeing rituals, or embroidery styles become hollowed out and simplified, eventually altering public perception of what these crafts are and reducing them to 'exotic designs' or passing fads. Cultural Distortion and Misrepresentation Cultural crafts are expressions of history, faith, identity, and regional pride. When brands strip these designs from their context and repackage them for commercial consumption, it leads to distorted cultural narratives. The symbolic meanings—whether religious, social, or spiritual—are lost or, worse, misrepresented. Over time, this distortion can weaken cultural memory. Younger generations may begin to associate their heritage crafts with foreign brands rather than their own culture, leading to disengagement, loss of transmission, and eventual decline in the craft itself. Widening the Global Inequality Gap At a systemic level, this practice deepens global inequalities. The fashion industry already suffers from an imbalance where design credit, visibility, and capital are concentrated in the West, while labor and creativity in the Global South are undervalued. When cultural crafts are extracted and commodified without a fair value exchange, it widens the gap between those who create and those who profit. Even when artisans are aware their work has been 'inspired,' they often lack the legal means or international platforms to demand justice or intellectual property rights. This dynamic mirrors the colonial extraction of resources, now in the form of intangible heritage. The Ethics of Fashion in a Globalized World Fashion does not exist in a vacuum—it is a product of people, places, and politics. In a world where global exchange is inevitable and often beautiful, it becomes even more critical to ensure that cultural inspiration does not become cultural exploitation. Design thrives on exploration, but with exploration must come accountability. When designers tap into indigenous or regional crafts, they bear the responsibility to ask: Who created this? What does it mean? Who benefits from this design? True ethical design goes beyond surface-level homage. It involves: Collaborative development with craft communities Fair compensation and royalties Storytelling that honors origins, not erases them Education for consumers and creative professionals about heritage and its significance Far from limiting creativity, such an approach adds richness, authenticity, and integrity to design. In fact, brands that choose ethical practices stand to gain consumer trust, cultural respect, and long-term sustainability in an increasingly conscious marketplace. Today's consumers are no longer satisfied with 'inspired by' as an excuse. They demand to know the how, the why, and most importantly, the who behind what they wear. The fashion industry must evolve to meet that demand—not with appropriation, but with appreciation backed by action. What the Fashion Industry Must Do Practice Transparent Attribution If a product is inspired by a regional craft or community, say it openly. A simple acknowledgment goes a long way in preserving cultural identity. Collaborate With Craftspeople Instead of imitating, work alongside traditional artisans. Co-design initiatives and partnerships can uplift communities, offer fair wages, and create sustainable ecosystems. Educate Designers and Consumers Institutes, brands, and media must educate new designers and buyers about the cultural significance of regional crafts. This builds respect, curiosity, and informed appreciation. Protect and Promote Indigenous Knowledge Support for GI tags, local artisan cooperatives, and funding for craft documentation projects is vital in preserving these heritages for future generations. Conclusion: Fashion Must Tell the Whole Story From the sunbaked lanes of Kolhapur to the catwalks of Milan, the journey of a craft should not be one of silence and invisibility. When fashion borrows, it must also acknowledge, compensate, and protect. Because behind every braided sandal, resist-dyed textile, or hand-stitched motif, there is a human story—of knowledge, struggle, pride, and identity. Let fashion not be just about what we wear, but also about who we honor when we wear it.
India.com
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- India.com
Prada Sells Desi Kolhapuri Chappals For Over Rs 1 Lakh As Leather Flat Sandals, Netizens Slam Luxury Brand For Giving No Credit To India
New Delhi: Luxury fashion label Prada has irked desis and how! Well, it so happened that at their Spring/Summer 2026 showcase in Milan, at least seven of the 56 runway looks featured sandals that bear a striking resemblance to traditional Indian Kolhapuri Chappals. The footwear was in tan leather, thin straps, and even toe rings. But the label gave no credit to India or its craftsmen, leaving internet fuming. Priced at a whopping Rs 1.16 lakh, these Kolhapuri Chappals are trending and opened debate over cultural appropriation once again. On Prada's Instagram page where the posts from the show have been shared, many users commented to vent out their anger. One user wrote: Guys! Say with me "CHAPPAL CHOR" . Another one wrote: Its Kolhapuri chappals. Stop copying us and renaming everything we have created One person said: Give credit to the one who invented it!!!! Another user said: Aaah another cultural appropriation at its best ! Fashion critic page Diet Sabya also reacted to the Prada Kolhapuri Chappals. The caption read: Wait. A. Minute? Chintz, cummerbunds, Nehru jackets. Turbans on international runways. Recently the ludicrous "Scandi Scarf" and "Mandi Bag"! Along with a slew of remixes of Indian fits that had zero business being remixed. And now? The Kolhapuri?! Not to be that nagging aunty but are we ready for a Prada Kolhapuri that'll cost us £1,000 a pair? And that'll be "Fashion" because Europeans will suddenly start wearing it. Quite interesting if you think about it. View this post on Instagram A post shared by DietSabya (@dietsabya) While "Made in France" and "Made in Italy" has always been seen as the benchmark of quality, recently western market is flooded with "Made in India", sold with a European label and name. All that embroidery. All that artisanal flex. All produced in India. Always has been. So let's not act brand new. India is not the next big trend. India has been the moment. The West (thanks to TikTok) is just waking up and acting like they discovered it. Lmao. Discuss View this post on Instagram A post shared by Prada (@prada) What Are Kolhapuri Chappals? Kolhapuri chappals are Indian decorative hand-crafted and braided leather slippers that are locally tanned using vegetable dyes. The origin of Kolhapuri Chappals dates back to 12th century when the King Bijjala and his prime minister Basavanna encouraged Kolhapuri Chappal production to support local cordwainers. Kolhapuris were first worn as early as the 13th century. Previously known as Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukri, the name indicated the village where they were made.
