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Sydney Morning Herald
14-07-2025
- Sydney Morning Herald
It's supposed to be a no-go city. But I went anyway, and loved it
Our guide for the day is Dominic Madoo, a sixth-generation South African of Indian descent who grew up during the apartheid era in an Indian group area called Chatsworth. You can learn a lot from a good guide, another reason to take a shore excursion The first Indians arrived in South Africa as indentured labourers in the 1860s. The country has 1.2 million people of Indian origin. Apart from Birmingham in England, Durban has more ethnic Indians than any other city outside India. Mahatma Gandhi spent two decades of his early life in Durban, working as a lawyer and getting involved in the civil rights campaign. Our next stop is his house in Inanda township, which tells the story of his activism among the Indian community, and its influence on black activism. The story has a fitting coda as we continue on to nearby Ohlange High School, founded by John Dube, first president of the African National Congress (ANC). Nelson Mandela cast his vote in the first democratic South African election here in 1994. He walked to Dube's grave afterwards and said: 'I have come to report, Mr President, that South Africa is now free.' Later we arrive in our guide Madoo's home district, Chatsworth, to visit Sri Sri Radha Radhanath Temple, a moated, lotus-shaped eruption in marble, brass and glass, hung with chandeliers and bright with Hindu ceiling frescoes. Loading Beside the temple, a vast catering tent is doling out free lunches to anyone who wants one. No sign of police officers or dark alleys here. The only strangers are ladies in gaudy saris eager for a chat, jewellery clanking from their ears. I've had a great day. I like Durban, which is just as well, because we're in port overnight. I'm emboldened by my first encounter with it. Tomorrow I'll be off on my own, discovering more of a city that deserves attention. THE DETAILS CRUISE Regent Seven Seas Cruises' 14-night Lagoons, Safaris and Dunes cruise return from Cape Town departs January 13, 2026, and visits Walvis Bay, Port Elizabeth, East London, Durban and Mossel Bay. From $13,390 a person including all dining, speciality restaurants, beverages, Wi-Fi, gratuities, laundry service and shore excursions. See The writer travelled as a guest of Regent Seven Seas Cruises.
The Age
14-07-2025
- The Age
It's supposed to be a no-go city. But I went anyway, and loved it
Our guide for the day is Dominic Madoo, a sixth-generation South African of Indian descent who grew up during the apartheid era in an Indian group area called Chatsworth. You can learn a lot from a good guide, another reason to take a shore excursion The first Indians arrived in South Africa as indentured labourers in the 1860s. The country has 1.2 million people of Indian origin. Apart from Birmingham in England, Durban has more ethnic Indians than any other city outside India. Mahatma Gandhi spent two decades of his early life in Durban, working as a lawyer and getting involved in the civil rights campaign. Our next stop is his house in Inanda township, which tells the story of his activism among the Indian community, and its influence on black activism. The story has a fitting coda as we continue on to nearby Ohlange High School, founded by John Dube, first president of the African National Congress (ANC). Nelson Mandela cast his vote in the first democratic South African election here in 1994. He walked to Dube's grave afterwards and said: 'I have come to report, Mr President, that South Africa is now free.' Later we arrive in our guide Madoo's home district, Chatsworth, to visit Sri Sri Radha Radhanath Temple, a moated, lotus-shaped eruption in marble, brass and glass, hung with chandeliers and bright with Hindu ceiling frescoes. Loading Beside the temple, a vast catering tent is doling out free lunches to anyone who wants one. No sign of police officers or dark alleys here. The only strangers are ladies in gaudy saris eager for a chat, jewellery clanking from their ears. I've had a great day. I like Durban, which is just as well, because we're in port overnight. I'm emboldened by my first encounter with it. Tomorrow I'll be off on my own, discovering more of a city that deserves attention. THE DETAILS CRUISE Regent Seven Seas Cruises' 14-night Lagoons, Safaris and Dunes cruise return from Cape Town departs January 13, 2026, and visits Walvis Bay, Port Elizabeth, East London, Durban and Mossel Bay. From $13,390 a person including all dining, speciality restaurants, beverages, Wi-Fi, gratuities, laundry service and shore excursions. See The writer travelled as a guest of Regent Seven Seas Cruises.
