Latest news with #LeCentquatre
Hypebeast
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
Maison Margiela & CELINE Debut New Directors as Balenciaga Says Farewell in This Week's Top Fashion News
Glenn Martensmade his long-awaited debut forMaison Margiela, presenting a memorable collection rooted inMartin Margiela's visionary legacy and the romantic contributions of the tenured former creative directorJohn Galliano. On July 9, the designer took his audience back to where Martin Margiela staged his final collection in March 2009 at Parisian cultural space Le Centquatre. The opening directly references the 2009 show with translucent polyurethane armor. Later, what appeared to be leather coats were finished with a rigid and rugged quality, and even the seemingly light, graceful fabrics appeared burnt and tattered. Towards the close, renewal became imminent in technicolor florals, and a long-sleeve dress covered with the spoils of a golden treasure chest. While the impressive debut marks a new era at Maison Margiela, Martens demonstrated his skill in advancing established legacies with novelty. Michael Riderdebuted his highly anticipated first collection as creative director forCELINEin Paris. This homecoming marks a new era for the luxury house, defined by preppy styles, sculptural silhouettes, glamorous eveningwear, and skinny jeans, following Hedi Slimane's departure. Rider, who previously worked at CELINE underPhoebe Philo, emphasized the brand's core values: quality, timelessness, and enduring style. His collection blended business with extravagance, featuring muted trench coats and blazers accessorized with decadent gold jewelry. Bold blues, saturated reds, and rich greens appeared on oversized bags and perfectly proportioned sportswear. Rider's vision prioritizes longevity, aiming to create investment pieces that transcend generations and become a cherished part of the wearer's life. In his final collection forBalenciaga,Demnamarked the end of his decade-long tenure, reflecting on fashion's constant evolution. He emphasized the industry's need to 'dress the future before it has a name,' a profound statement underscoring his design philosophy. The 54th Couture collection, set in Paris, featured campaign stars likeKim KardashianandNaomi Campbell. Demna reimagined classic 'La Bourgeoisie' styles with bold tailoring and subtle prints, alongside Hollywood-inspired glamour, notably referencing Elizabeth Taylor. Men's looks showcased his signature elevation of everyday items, including a couture sneaker and a 'jewelry box' laptop case, blending the mundane with the extraordinary. This collection, seen as a clean slate before Pierpaolo Piccioli takes over, was notably subdued and elegant, focusing on meticulous detail rather than past gimmicks. Berlin Fashion Week SS26showcased an impressive lineup of designers, drawing international attention to the city's top talent. The event highlighted unique fashion manifestos, includingDavid Koma's debut menswear catwalk, 'I LOVE DAVID,' which featured wearable formal ensembles inspired by David Beckham and Michelangelo's David. GmbH's Spring 2026 show, 'Imitation of Life,' offered a poetic and emotional commentary on the global state, looking to childhood for a hopeful Beil's 'Milieuschutz' collection marked a return to intention, reflecting on transformation and responsibility, with designs inspired by their new studio in an old pharmacy. Lastly,SF1OG's Spring 2026 show explored obsessive desire and emotional decay through the lens of a teenage dream, showcasing youthful freedom and craftsmanship on antique textiles. Justin Bieberhas officially launched his new fashion label,SKYLRK, unveiling its first vibrant collection. This venture marks a shift from his previous brand, Drew House, reflecting a new creative vision. After nearly 18 months of teasing, the initial drop features a range of apparel and accessories, including hoodies, headwear, oversized sunglasses, and two footwear models. The collection boasts hoodies in 'Fizz' yellow, 'Super Blue,' and 'Smudge' black, complemented by beanies in 'Gum' pink, 'Jelly' red, and 'Fizz.' A standout piece is the 'Upside Down' oversized sunglasses with bold, bubbled lenses, an aesthetic echoed in the 'Chunky Mule' and 'Beach Slide' footwear. The entire collection is now available on SKYLRK's official webstore, with further brand details expected soon. DesignerHeron Prestonhas reacquired full rights to his namesake brand fromNew Guards Group(NGG), signaling a fresh start. Preston, who launched his label under NGG in 2017, bought back control amidst strategic shifts for NGG, including a recent bankruptcy filing and its acquisition by Coupang. This move follows other brands likeAMBUSHandPalm Angelsalso departing NGG's portfolio. Preston emphasized his commitment to his creative vision, stating he 'fought for my name, my work and my vision.' Now based in Brooklyn and independent of external investors, he is poised to launch his next collection in October. This reacquisition allows Preston to fully focus on expanding his unique design aesthetic, marking an exciting new chapter for the brand.
Hypebeast
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
Glenn Martens' Maison Margiela Fall 2025 Couture: A Debut for the Ages
How does one carry on the extraordinary legacy of a vanguard designer likeMartin Margiela? Furthermore, how does one follow up on such a triumphant finale asJohn Galliano's theatrical Fall 2024 couture collection? Leave it to none other thanGlenn Martensto show the way. If one thing is for sure, it's that Martens has the Midas touch when it comes to fashion takeovers. The Belgian designer shows a penchant for distilling the ethos of established names, while keeping his finger on the pulse of the moment. Just as his helming ofDieselis firmly rooted in the Italian denim label's identity, his Fall 2025Maison MargielaArtisanal debut started at the foundations, reprising core Margiela hallmarks and maintaining the theatricality of Galliano's tenure. On July 9, the designer took his audience back to where Martin Margiela staged his final collection inMarch 2009 at Parisian cultural space Le Centquatre. The floors were clad with fragmented tiling, and the walls were covered in haphazardly pasted posters, distressed, overlapping with one another, and peeling as if they had been there all along. The atmosphere provided a strong contrast for the opening looks, directly referencing the 2009 show with the translucent armor of polyurethane gowns, coats, and, of course, Martin Margiela's signature masks in various forms. Then, the show took a sharp turn with all-consuming metallic gowns, transforming the models into precious molten ores, eerily moving down the runway. Echoes of Galliano come through as well, with extreme corsetry and regal floral patterns stained with an antiquarian patina. Martens translated these golden Renaissance-style fragments into Margiela's language of deconstruction, assembling patchworked textiles to make up trench coats, long skirts, and bodycon dresses. Then, a certain decaying quality begins to emerge. A jewel-adorned polo shirt looked as if it had been dug out of the ground, while the bottoms — a pair of light-wash jeans — resemble the 'oldest pair of jeans,' recently uncovered in an abandoned mining shaft. What appeared to be leather jackets and skirts were finished with a rigid and rugged quality, and even the seemingly light, graceful fabrics appeared burnt and tattered. However, with his closing remarks, Martens ensured his audience that renewal is imminent. A look comprising a men's blazer and skirt was clad in emerald jewels and worn with an amorphous chrome mask, and next, a long-sleeve dress was covered with the spoils of a golden treasure chest. Elsewhere, a full tulle number suggested floral blooms, culminating in a bouquet-like headpiece, and the translucent plastic makes its return in a technicolor coat. Finally, the show closed with one of the very few solid-colored numbers of the collection. An energetic lime green look, juxtaposing a ruffled bodice with a flowing skirt, evoked budding growth and rejuvenation — the next chapter of Maison Margiela has begun. See the gallery above for a full look at Glenn Martens' Maison Margiela Artisanal debut and stay tuned to Hypebeast for the latest fashion industry insights.
