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Business of Fashion
03-06-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
How Niche Perfumers Pay to Win
While the greater beauty slowdown may be bringing about the end of the Lipstick Index, perhaps it's led to the emergence of a different product as an economic indicator: Fragrance. Sales in the category rose 4 percent in the prestige channel and 8 percent in the mass market in the first quarter of 2025, according to intelligence firm Circana. And while body mists and designer scents are driving the mass category, it's niche fragrances that are keeping prestige sales afloat. A recent NielsenIQ report saw indie brands claim 23 percent of overall fragrance sales, with its 34 percent year-over-year growth outpacing the overall category, driven by demand for esoteric and expensive new perfumes popularized on social media, especially TikTok. Its perception as an affordable luxury buy, and one that helps buyers express their individuality, has contributed to their rise. The indies have been growing 'exponentially,' said Linda Levy, president of the Fragrance Foundation. 'They're often on a level playing field with big brands in direct-to-consumer storytelling and engagement.' That success has brought more competition from perfumery's traditional players — and their deeper pockets. Indies have to walk a tightrope to survive: they must follow Big Perfumery's business blueprint, but are also expected to provide elevated quality with surprising compositions and precious ingredients. Benoît Verdier, co-founder of perfume house Ex Nihilo, previously told The Business of Beauty that their competition was 'the big guys', referring to conglomerates like Estée Lauder, LVMH and Puig. 'If we want to compete against them, we need power.' ADVERTISEMENT To stay ahead, and to ensure their offerings remain singular, they're investing heavily in various corners of their businesses — in their perfumers, in their retail spaces and in their juices themselves. Omani fragrance house Amouage, recently backed by L'Oréal, lavishes both time and money on its perfumes, with long maturation times and potent ingredient concentrations. (Amouage) For perfume houses like Marc-Antoine Barrois, Kriger and Amouage, these investments are crucial to justifying their lofty prices, starting at around $160 per ounce. And their pay-to-win strategies are working. In 2024, the Oman-based Amouage recorded 30 percent growth, and annual retail sales now exceed $260 million, a figure that's more than doubled in the last three years. Marc-Antoine Barrois, headquartered in France, did nearly $70 million in retail sales in 2024, and is projected to grow to $100 million in 2025, its eponymous founder and artistic director told The Business of Beauty. Many indies have been scooped up by private equity firms: In 2024, D.S. & Durga was acquired by private equity firm Manzanita Capital, and L'Oréal purchased a stake in Amouage the same year. But even after a cash infusion, niche perfumers have to work to maintain their credibility. D.S. & Durga Co-founder Kavi Moltz told BoF that, post-acquisition, 'we're now spending more time on the creations and our community.' A Fine Balance It can be challenging to decide to divert precious resources to a superior — and eye-poppingly expensive — quality of jasmine, when more pressing areas like escalating supply chain costs, inflated MOQs and viable distribution channels need cash infusions. But for many niche perfumers, passion supersedes profit. One universal touchpoint is destination retail spaces that manifest slower, immersive and meaningful storytelling experiences. Chief executive Marco Parsiegla said that Amouage's boutiques are 'both commercially impactful and creatively essential' and have turned a profit more quickly than anticipated. Standalone retail spaces can be costly, but they have more profit potential than wholesale, allowing for greater consumer engagement, explains Paul Austin, founder of fragrance and branding agency Austin Advisory Group, and co-creator of LilaNur Parfums. Many niche perfumers have a mix of both: Amouage is stocked at over 1,000 department stores and fragrance boutiques worldwide, in addition to its 12 standalone boutiques. Same for Barrois, whose relatively modest offering of seven perfume SKUs sustains three standalone boutiques. 'I wanted my stores to be a place where people can escape their reality,' Marc-Antoine Barrois said. Krigler keeps supply rarified, setting up jewel-box-like spaces in the most exclusive hotels and never exceeding one door per city. Its Parisian outpost opened in December last year at The Peninsula Paris, at a cost of $2 million, counting the value of archival trunks and Baccarat crystal decanters on display. The rent for the 320 square foot space is almost in the six figures in euros, said a source with knowledge of the brand's business. ADVERTISEMENT That level of spend is worth it to fifth-generation owner Ben Krigler because it allows them to connect with high-spending clients. On opening day, a Qatari royal cleaned out their inventory, buying limited edition flaçons and every bottle of an exclusive collection including the testers, each worth $1,700. Her shopping spree brought in €100,000 ($114,000). 'A big portion of the store was empty,' said Krigler, who had to fly in employees from other stores with suitcases full of perfume the next day. Then it comes down to the juice itself. Fragrance houses spend lavishly on marquee name perfumers, who then go on to spend lavishly on ingredients. Barrois uses Quentin Bisch, a Givaudan perfumer known for Good Girl by Carolina Herrera and Parfums de Marly's Delina series. 'We have no limits on Quentin's time or on the ingredients we put in,' Barrois said. 'I don't know what it costs exactly and don't want to.' Bisch's scents, Ganymede and Tilia, are hits for the brand, together accounting for over 60 percent of sales. Perfumer and couturier Marc-Antoine Barrois, foreground, with his perfumer of choice, Quentin Bisch. 'We have no limits on Quentin's time or on the ingredients we put in,' Barrois said. 'I don't know what it costs exactly and don't want to.' (Jérôme Emeriau) Cash is not the only currency spent on niche fragrances, which often need time to mature. Amouage's approach to the aging process makes liberal use of both, which chief creative officer Renaud Salmon said is a non-negotiable part of their process: 'It unlocks the full potential of the perfume… bringing out complexity that would be impossible otherwise.' Each formula is evaluated to define the right maturation time. Since this step ties up working capital by requiring storage space, and results in inventory remaining unsold for months, it pushes up the cost of the perfume, as does Amouage's propensity to offer higher concentrations of fragrance concentrate than most houses, with some going up to 30 percent or more. 'From my experience creating for other luxury brands, this number is at least ten times higher than what is typically allowed,' Salmon said. Krigler's fragrances, too, start at 25 percent concentration, and can go up to 45 percent. Maturation time is a minimum of 18 months. Back to Basics These might seem like insurmountable costs to bootstrapped brands, which niche perfumeries often are. While Amouage is backed by L'Oréal, both Krigler and Marc Antoine Barrois remain family-owned. ADVERTISEMENT Barrois started in 2016 with a few thousand euros and invested everything he earned into the business. Early on, he rented out his apartment on Airbnb and funneled that into the company, too. But his first scent, B683, was so well-received that inventory he thought would last ten years sold in less than two months. That hustle and high comes with indie territory. And like Barrois, if nothing else, brands can leverage niche perfumery's founding principle: focus on product above all else. Veronique Gabai, founder and CEO of her eponymous brand, and former global president of the fragrance division of the Estée Lauder Companies, explains that indie perfumery's very origin was in disruption. 'Niche perfumes were born out of a reaction to the overtly marketed product that the fragrance industry was 20 or 25 years ago,' she said, citing the example of Frederic Malle. 'The purpose… was to go back to the quality of the juice, time spent on craftsmanship, and collaboration with perfumers.' Gabai welcomes brands renewed focus on what's always been at the heart of the niche perfumery ethos: The juice itself. Investment in the fragrance product is not just investment, but 'the very core of the strategy,' Gabai said. 'Niche isn't about marketing, imagery, or a big name and face. It's about creating a product that enchants, surprises and evokes important emotional reactions from people.' Sign up toThe Business of Beauty newsletter, your complimentary, must-read source for the day's most important beauty and wellness news and analysis.
Elle
28-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Elle
The Hair Perfumes That Turn Heads Everywhere I Go
Fragrance, much like fashion, is deeply personal. The right scents can reflect your mood, give you a confidence boost, and even help clinch the vibe of any outfit. Right now, there are more hair perfumes than ever on the market—including options inspired by your favorite everyday scents—to help you create a truly distinctive aura from head to toe. 'Just as perfume is an invisible accessory that you spray on pulse points, hair perfume has a similar effect,' says Linda Levy, president of The Fragrance Foundation. Unlike traditional fragrances, though, hair perfumes are typically made without alcohol or with less amounts to avoid stripping out moisture. Instead, they often feature 'nourishing and conditioning oils to hydrate and add shine,' she adds. Some formulas even offer UV protection to help ward off further damage. In a quest to find the most luxurious hair perfumes, I tested some of the most popular formulas, scoured customer reviews, and tapped Levy, as well as Chicago-based hair stylist Raven Hurtado, for their top picks. Keep scrolling to find your next favorite vanity upgrade. Fans of the cult-loved Baccarat Rouge 540 will be obsessed with this matching hair fragrance. Starring notes of jasmine, saffron, and cedarwood, it's a tantalizingly rich scent that you won't be able to resist spritzing on for nearly every occasion. 'The florals in Baccarat 540 are intoxicating and clearly distinctive,' adds Levy. Key notes: jasmine, saffron, cedarwood, ambergris accord Size: 2.4 oz. It's no secret that Byredo makes some of the most eclectic and buzziest scents around, with Mojave Ghost being a clear standout. Not your typical woodsy perfume, this viral desert-inspired fragrance is actually quite subtle—opening with notes of cedarwood, sandalwood, and musk, then finishing with soft aromas of violet and magnolia. Per reviewers, the hair perfume version also lasts for hours and is easy to layer. Key notes: Jamaican nesberry, violet, sandalwood, magnolia, chantilly musk, crisp amber, cedarwood. Size: 2.5 oz. What I love most about YSL Libre is its versatility. A sultry yet balanced blend of notes like deep musk, lavender essence, toasty vanilla, and bright mandarin, it's an equally effortless pick for everyday wear as it is for date night paired with an LBD. Even better, the hair perfume version has pomegranate extract to create a soft, shiny finish. Key notes: mandarin essence, lavandin essence, blackcurrant accord, lavender essence, orange blossom absolute, vanilla extract, musks, cedar essence Size: 1.01 oz. I like to think of Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle as No.5's hipper, younger sister. Bold, fresh, and feminine, without the intense powderiness of its iconic predecessor, it's no wonder the popular scent is also one of Levy's all-time favorites. 'The mix of orange blossoms and rose create such a sense of being dressed up,' she says. Key notes: Patchouli, vetiver, orange, jasmine and rose Size: 1.2 oz. Levy recommends this spicy-floral fragrance from Diptyque, which she calls perfect for spring and summer. On top of being a delightful contrast of iris, musk, and pink peppercorn, it stars nourishing camellia oil to soften hair and tame frizz. For the best results, the brand suggests applying it on damp hair after rinsing with cool water, as this can help close the cuticle and seal the fragrance in for longer. Key notes: musk, iris, ambrette, pink peppercorn Size: 1 oz. Chances are you've seen Sol de Janeiro's hair and body mists all over TikTok. Cheriosa '62 is a bestseller and one of my personal favorite scents in the collection. A delicious blend of salted caramel, vanilla, and pistachio will leave you sneaking a whiff of your hair every few minutes (for those who are normally averse to gourmand fragrances, rest assured this one isn't saccharine). Though not the longest-lasting hair perfume I've tried, I found a little goes a long way. Plus, the bottle is large enough that you won't feel guilty spritzing it on repeatedly throughout the day. Key notes: Pistachio, almond, heliotrope, jasmine petals, vanilla, salted caramel, sandalwood Size: 3 oz. 'This honey-infused perfume is great for all hair types and provides moisture and shine with a light fragrance that leaves you feeling fresh,' says Hurtado. Blended with notes of mandarin and wildflowers, it's also more nuanced than you might expect—I would describe it as warm and sweet yet surprisingly sophisticated, with a finish that lasts for hours. Key notes: mirsalehi honey, spring florals, mandarin Size: 1.7 oz. 'Everything Killian does is addictive and this one is such a delectable gourmand with notes of marshmallow but not too sweet,' says Levy. Also infused with panthenol, the decadent formula simultaneously works to soften and revive dull hair. Key notes: Neroli, orange blossom, marshmallow Size: 1.7 oz. For any vanilla scent purists, this aptly named mist from Phlur is the quintessential pick. It opens with notes of pink pepper and juicy apple, then dries down with a satisfyingly creamy aroma akin to pure vanilla extract. 'It's great for freshening up your hair with a sweet fragrance,' says Hurtado. (Though in my opinion, it won't make you smell like a bakery.) Key notes: Vanilla, sandalwood, pink pepper, jasmine Size: 3 oz. - 8 oz. Sure, spritzing on hair perfume isn't a necessity, but if you love the idea of your hair smelling salon-fresh on the daily, this Balmain scent is worth the splurge. As a beauty editor, I've tried countless perfumes over the years, but I'd rank this among one of the most unique I've ever sniffed. It's slightly fruity and floral, contrasted with sharper notes like tarragon and balsamic that give it a slight edge. Even after hours of commuting around New York City, my hair still smelled luxurious with just a single application. Silk protein and argan oil provide added shine and softness as well. Key notes: white musk, balsamic, tarragon, peach blossom, gardenia Size: 3.4 oz. Jo Malone perfumes are the epitome of elegance and timelessness. This argan oil-infused scent from the British label will instantly transport you to the English countryside, featuring notes of ripe pear, delicate freesia, and earthy patchouli for a grounding element. Key notes: William pear, freesia, patchouli From the brand known for its ultra-nourishing, smoothing hair products, this ambery-meets-floral mist stars hydrators like argan oil and vitamin E, plus UV-absorbing technology, to hydrate and protect strands. Among over 8,000 reviews, shoppers say it smells fresh and brings life back to dry hair without weighing it down. Key notes: Amber, magnolia, woody notes Size: 3.4 oz. Notes of zingy lemon zest meet soft cashmere and jasmine in this refreshingly comforting scent. Meanwhile, niacinamide helps soften and biotin works to strengthen hair. Per one five-star reviewer: 'Luxurious and cozy, it hydrates and refreshes without any stickiness, leaving my skin and hair soft and fresh all day. Plus, the mist itself is super fine, almost cloud-like.' Key notes: Lemon zest, jasmine, cashmere wood Size: 1.69 oz., 3.3 oz Hair can easily absorb unwanted odors from the environment, especially if you indulge in regular heat styling and chemical treatments that can leave it more porous over time. This Sachajuan perfume not only offers a light fruity-floral fragrance, but also uses citrus oils to mask odors and instantly make hair smell cleaner. Whether you're nearing wash day or are dealing with the aftermath of a pungent takeout order, this is just the solution to have in your arsenal. What's more, it helps nourish, boost shine, and protect against damaging UV rays. Key notes: Green apple, peach, rose, cedar, white musk Size: 1.7 oz. 'To choose the right hair perfume, consider your hair type,' advises Hurtado. 'Hair perfumes provide nourishing oils that can be heavy on fine hair. If you have fine hair, look for something that is lightweight, formulated with vitamins and minerals, and a scent that best suits you. For thicker hair, ingredients like coconut oil and argan oil will help moisturize.' 'Spray from a distance or into the roots for a more intense scent—only on dry hair,' suggests Hurtado. Levy also recommends applying a hair perfume post-styling for the ultimate finishing touch. 'Just as your skin absorbs scent, so does your hair,' says Levy. 'Based on the formulation, the scent can last for a few hours or longer.' Hurtado adds that since hair absorbs scents more than the skin, hair perfumes generally tend to have a longer-lasting aroma. Linda Levy is the President of The Fragrance Foundation Raven Hurtado is a hair stylist at Maxine Salon in Chicago As a leading publisher of fashion, lifestyle, and beauty content, is committed to highlighting the best products in various categories by personally testing the latest and most innovative products, interviewing countless experts, and vetting customer-loved items. For this piece, an writer spoke with fragrance experts about all things hair perfumes. The author personally tested a number of these products and scoured reviews for the top-rated products on the market.
