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San Francisco Chronicle
16-06-2025
- San Francisco Chronicle
This California wine region's coolest tasting room? The visitor center
There are more than 60 wine tasting rooms in the budding Lodi wine region, yet the best stopover is the last place you'd expect: the visitor center. Here, it's not about the decor (minimalist), the vibe (amiable) or even the inexpensive tasting fee (just $12). The main draw is the incredible wine selection: over 200 bottles from more than 70 local producers, most of which don't have their own tasting rooms. Located 35 miles south of Sacramento and long overshadowed by glitzy Bay Area destinations like Napa and Sonoma, Lodi (San Joaquin County) is a quiet farm town with no Michelin-starred restaurants or fancy resorts. The longtime home of the Robert Mondavi Winery-founded Woodbridge, it's historically known as a commodity region; the majority of Lodi's grapes are sold in bulk to California's largest wine companies and often placed on the bottom shelf. But this affordable region is slowly gaining recognition as one that's more diverse and premium than its reputation suggests. The 25-year-old Lodi Wine Visitor Center (2545 W. Turner Road), which is also the only true wine shop in the city, is leading the revival. In the ivy-covered, Tuscan-style building, you can find plenty of Lodi's signature Zinfandel, as well as natural wines, the Greek white wine Assyrtiko and an off-dry Verdelho made by a two-time Lodi mayor. All bottles are under $70. 'You can really come in and visually do a 360 in the tasting room and see how far (Lodi has) come and how many different types of wines there are,' said Stephanie Bolton, the research and education director of the grower-funded Lodi Winegrape Commission, which operates the center. 'Once you walk in the door, that becomes very clear.' Local tourism boards typically operate regional visitor centers, but Lodi is the only California wine region that has a visitor center dedicated exclusively to promoting local wines. It may seem surprising this isn't found in a region overflowing with wineries like Napa Valley, but Bolton believes that would create an overly competitive environment. 'You have to set a lot of fear and ego aside to do something like (this),' she said. Growers, on the other hand, all benefit from the collective effort. In Lodi, there's roughly 80,000 acres of grapes, but only about 85 wineries, and many of those winery owners were growers first, Bolton said. Increased demand for Lodi wines should translate to higher demand, and prices, for the grapes. 'There's a camaraderie and deep-rooted (feeling of), 'We're all in this together,'' said Paul Marsh, the visitor center's manager and wine club director. Founded in 2000, the Lodi Wine Visitor Center is located right off a main thoroughfare next to what many locals refer to as Lodi's 'one nice hotel,' Wine & Roses. The hotel was recently renamed Appellation Lodi – Wine & Roses Resort and Spa as part of a major renovation by celebrity wine country chef and hotelier Charlie Palmer. His new cafe, Maison Lodi, adjoins the visitor center. To establish the tasting room, which welcomes over 20,000 people a year, the Lodi Winegrape Commission had to create a 501(c)(3) educational foundation to secure an Alcohol Beverage Control license to serve and sell wine, recalled executive director Stuart Spencer. When it first opened in the same building as the commission's offices, the wine region had just seven tasting rooms, so the vision was to exclusively highlight wines made from Lodi grapes, including wines produced outside the region. The center still takes this seriously: Jeff Perlegos, co-owner of Perlegos Family Wine Co., said the commission rejected one of his wines because it was only partially made from Lodi grapes. Locals and industry members make up about 40% of the center's annual visitation, said Marsh, a former restaurateur and sommelier with red-rimmed glasses. But for tourists, it's designed to be the first stop on their visit, a sort of concierge that can help them curate an itinerary fit to their specific tastes. 'We have to be the stewards for Lodi right now, especially during this weird, wonky time in the wine business,' said Marsh. 'It's our job to make sure we get that person to that place they didn't know they needed to find.' Part of that stewardship is hiring qualified tasting hosts. '(Marsh) has had success recruiting sommeliers, which provides a very professional style tasting. Sometimes, you go into a tasting room and you just have people pouring the wine and they barely know their own product,' said Jeffrey Farthing, the longtime winemaker for Lodi's Michael David Winery. He sells wines from his small side project, Purple Corduroy, at the center. 'They have had a lot to do with the success of my teeny tiny brand,' he continued, estimating that the wine center sells over 60 cases of wine for him a year, almost as much as his distributor. 'They know me, they've taken the time to get to know me, learn the story of my wines, and they present that to the customer.' Lodi native and second-generation farmer Perlegos said his brand also 'benefits' from the staff's expertise as he works with some unconventional grapes like the Greek Assyrtiko and Sicily's Nero d'Avola. 'Our varieties are very different,' he said. 'They're very knowledgeable and they do a lot of work with the folks that come in there to educate them and show off what's different in Lodi versus other regions.' Wineries like Perlegos are slowly helping debunk the stereotype that Lodi is synonymous with big, high-alcohol red wines — mainly Zinfandel. 'Old Vine Zin is definitely the heartbeat of the area, but so many people are searching out Lodi fruit, not only because of the accessibility of it, but the fact you can do something Italian, Spanish or South African,' said Marsh, pointing to Pinotage, the stigmatized red grape that's most famous in South Africa, as an example. 'Some people are doing incredible Pinotage (in Lodi).' A tasting of four wines costs $12, and Marsh switches up the eight-wine lineup every week. 'The part that gets me is seeing that eyebrow raise. Someone says, 'I only drink Pinot Noir,' and I'll ask, 'When's the last time you had Carignan? Or Cinsault?' And a light bulb pops in their head,' he said. 'Everyone loves that old pair of Levi's that fits perfectly, but every once in a while, you've got to try a new pair of pants on and see if that changes some things.' Those eyebrow raisers have kept longtime local Barbara Rankin coming to the center about every month for the past decade. 'Variety is what I'm after. I want to find a gem,' she said. 'It's the only place to find cool, otherwise unknown wines.' Lodi Wine Visitor Center. 2545 W Turner Road, Lodi.
Yahoo
05-03-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Lodi farmer a guest at Trump's address to Congress
Mar. 5—WASHINGTON — A Lodi farmer and advocate for the wine industry was in attendance for President Donald Trump's first speaking engagement at the U.S. Capitol since his inauguration in January. Lodi Winegrape Commission executive director Stuart Spencer attended the first address of 119th Congress last night in Washington, D.C. Spencer was invited by Rep. Josh Harder, D-Tracy, as a special guest. "The Valley is home to the best crops and wine in the world because of hardworking family farmers, and I'm honored to have Stuart Spencer join me in Washington to highlight our agriculture communities," Harder said. "From severe disasters to rising costs and foreign competition, our farmers are facing real challenges, and they need real solutions from Washington. I'm committed to working with anyone to ensure that our farmers have the support they need to thrive, not just survive." Spencer has been farming winegrapes since he was 10 years old, and his family has been farming for 50 years. These include 40 acres of nine different Portuguese and Spanish varieties. Spencer joined the Winegrape Commission in 1999 as a program manager and became executive director in 2018. During his time with the commission, Spencer has overseen its marketing program, providing guidance and support to advertise regional events such as ZinFest, as well as lead branding efforts for campaigns including LoCA, Save the Old Vines and the "A Rising Tide" Lodi Grower Video Series. He also spearheaded the installation and opening of the Lodi Wine Visitor Center inside the Wine & Roses Resort and Spa at 2545 W. Turner Road in 2000. Spencer has also been heavily involved in educational efforts for the Lodi winegrape industry, including recent initiatives to focus attention on California winegrower challenges and opportunities in the current wine industry. He was instrumental in developing the LODI RULES for Sustainable Winegrowing program which celebrated its 20th year of certification in January. Since 2005, the program has grown from 1,555 acres of certified sustainable Lodi vineyards to more than 75,000 acres of planted vines certified in California, Washington, and Israel.
Yahoo
14-02-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Stuart Spencer recognized for his 25 years of service to Lodi Winegrape Commission
Feb. 14—The Lodi Winegrape Commission Board of Directors this week recognized Executive Director Stuart Spencer for 25 years of service to the organization. Spencer joined the commission as program manager in 1999 and was promoted to executive director in 2018. The board honored Spencer at its annual meeting, which was attended by more than 150 community members. "It has been an absolute honor to serve Lodi's growers for the past 25 years," Spencer said. "Their dedication to their community, their thirst for knowledge, and their willingness to collaborate are truly unmatched. The work we do at the Lodi Winegrape Commission makes a real difference, and it's the growers' strong leadership and commitment to excellence that make it all possible. We've achieved so much together, and I'm excited for all that's still to come." During his time with the commission, Spencer has overseen its marketing program, providing guidance and support to advertise regional events such as ZinFest, as well as lead branding efforts for campaigns including LoCA, Save the Old Vines and the "A Rising Tide" Lodi Grower Video Series. He also spearheaded the installation and opening of the Lodi Wine Visitor Center inside the Wine & Roses Resort and Spa at 2545 W. Turner Road in 2000. Today, the center serves as a central hub for Lodi producers who lack brick-and-mortar venues to showcase their wine. It also serves as an education station and guide to the Lodi Appellation, which welcomes thousands of visitors a year. "During the past 25 years, Stuart has been an asset to the wine industry, specifically for the Lodi region," Board Chair Diego Olagaray said. "As a winemaker and winegrower, Stuart possesses unique perspectives on the wine industry's domestic and international issues, which have helped to expand and strengthen the region and set him apart from his peers." Spencer has also been heavily involved in educational efforts for the Lodi winegrape industry, including recent initiatives to focus attention on California winegrower challenges and opportunities in the current wine industry. He was instrumental in developing the LODI RULES for Sustainable Winegrowing program which celebrated its 20th year of certification in January. Since 2005, the program has grown from 1,555 acres of certified sustainable Lodi vineyards to more than 75,000 acres of planted vines certified in California, Washington, and Israel. Mark Chandler was the commission's first executive director, and hired Spencer in 1999. "Stuart is a remarkable individual with great insights, and a strategic vision paired with the tactical expertise to know what's possible," he said. " His steady influence and advocacy for our winegrowing community continues to make great progress for the region. Stuart enhances and elevates the position of our wines on the world stage, while still being authentically Lodi every step of the way." The commission represents more than 750 winegrape growers who farm more than 100,000 vineyard acres, and includes more than 80 wineries in the Lodi American Viticulture Area. It is the second largest in California and crushes more than 20% of California's premium winegrapes. The region's annual yield of over 592,000 tons of winegrapes was valued at over $360 million in 2024. "Stuart and I both come from multi-generational Lodi winemaking families and it has been a pleasure to see all the work he has done bringing our amazing people, place and wines into the spotlight," said Joan Kautz, the commission's Grower Marketing Committee chairwoman. "His 25 years of service are nothing short of tremendous, and I am excited to continue working with him on behalf of the region for years to come."
