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The Print
3 hours ago
- Business
- The Print
Kolhapuris get Prada makeover at Rs 1.2 lakh: Where's the credit, fume activists as label acknowledges ‘inspiration'
'I am deeply annoyed and disgusted by the way Prada has appropriated something deeply Indian and traditional — without giving any recognition to the craftspeople or the culture it comes from. This is a metaphor for how we in India often undervalue our own heritage, dismissing it as primitive or merely 'handicraft,' while the world repackages it as luxury,' designer and activist Laila Tyabji, who has worked with craftspersons for decades, told PTI. That the GI-tagged footwear, a symbol of Indian craft that goes back centuries was appropriated by the Italian luxury label which featured it in Spring/Summer 2026 show, led to a massive debate on cultural theft and giving artisans their rightful due. New Delhi, Jun 28 (PTI) The humble kolhapuri, style statement for affordable ethnic elegance and simply staple wear for many, catapulted to the rarefied runways of Milan with Prada rebranding the handcrafted chappal 'leather flat sandals' at Rs 1.2 lakh. The outrage was instant and intense. 'It's time we acknowledged that India holds extraordinary skills and knowledge systems. We must recognise, protect, and proudly present them to the world—before others steal and sell our identity back to us,' the Dastkar chairperson added. Several days later, as the debate escalated in India, Prada acknowledged the connection and said the design is 'inspired' by the Indian handcrafted footwear. It said the sandal featured in the men's 2026 fashion show is still at the design stage and none of the pieces worn by models on the ramp are confirmed to be commercialised. 'We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft,' Prada's group head for corporate social responsibility, Lorenzo Bertelli, said in reply to a letter by the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA). The industry lobby had sought exploration collaborations and fair compensation to the artisans and also adherence to ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights. For many though, the initial absence of credit for Kolhapuris, paraded as cutting-edge high fashion for clients who are the polar opposite of the regular Kolhapuri wearer, was the most important takeaway from the glam Milan moment. Kolhapuri chappals are typically handcrafted and manufactured in the Maharashtra town of Kolhapur, from where they take their name, and the surrounding districts of Sangli, Satara and Solapur. The craft has a legacy dating back to the 12th or 13th century. Originally patronised by the royals of the region, Kolhapuri sandals were crafted by the local cobbler community using vegetable-tanned leather and were entirely handmade — using no nails or synthetic components. They're also known for their signature T-strap shape, detailed braiding, and open-toe design — a perfect blend of practicality and fashion. In 2019, Kolhapuri chappals were granted GI tag status by the government of India, recognising them as a unique product tied to eight districts across Maharashtra and Karnataka. This legal status protects the craftsmanship and origin from imitation, and helps promote economic security for rural artisans. A PIL against Prada could well be in the works. GI expert and heritage rights advocate Ganesh Hingare is already collating documents to sue the luxury fashion brand for what he describes as 'intellectual property infringement under Section 22 of the GI Act'. 'This isn't the first time India has faced such appropriation. We've fought and won similar battles before — like in the turmeric patent case and the basmati rice case in the US. 'This is not just about a pair of chappals. This is about cultural theft, disrespect to artisans, and violation of India's GI laws. An apology is not just due to Kolhapur, but India,' Hingare, who has worked on over 100 GI-tagged products, including 59 from Maharashtra alone, told PTI. In Maharashtra, BJP Rajya Sabha MP Dhananjay Mahadik, who belongs to Kolhapur, led a delegation of traditional Kolhapuri chappal artisans to meet Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis. Social media is also abuzz with accusations of cultural appropriation. Global footwear brand Bata called out Prada for rebranding what 'India has cherished for centuries'. 'It's a reminder that heritage always leads, and trends follow,' said Deepika Deepti, head of marketing at Bata India. 'The Kolhapuri chappal is not a 'design discovery' — it's a living tradition. At Bata India, we've proudly brought this craftsmanship to millions, long before it appeared on international runways. Real originality doesn't come with a luxury tag — it comes with legacy,' she said. The Prada projection has had an unexpected fallout. In Delhi's popular Janpath market, Ashok Grover has been selling a wide range of Kolhapuri chappals since the 1970s. Demand has been dwindling but suddenly there is a flood of inquiries. 'These luxury companies first invest, then go all out on marketing, create hype around products — which aren't even theirs — and finally slap an extravagant price on them. I saw the picture of that chappal — at best, it wouldn't cost more than Rs 2,000 to Rs 3,000. And here, I can't even sell the same article for Rs 1,000,' said the owner of Maujri Collections, one of the oldest shops in Janpath. When he started his business, the slippers were being sold for just Rs 10. So when and how did Kolhapuris really become a rage, part of the quintessential kurta, pyjama and ethnic jhola look loved by college students, aspiring politicians, and so many more. Some cite the 1979 Hindi blockbuster 'Suhaag' in which Amitabh Bachchan — who plays a cop — has a memorable exchange with a corrupt seth (businessman) : 'Yeh kya hai?' 'Chappal' 'Kaunsa?' 'Kolhapuri', as he takes off his slipper and slaps him hard with it. It's not just Kolhapuri chappals that have fallen prey to cultural appropriation. Experts also cite the humble Indian jhola, typically priced between Rs 200–300 in local markets, now being sold as a Rs 4,000 'India souvenir tote' on luxury American retail site Nordstrom. Traditional dupattas have been rebranded as 'Scandinavian scarves', while intricately embroidered lehengas are being passed off as trendy 'Y2K maxi skirts'. On the flip side, some fashion experts believe the sudden global attention on Kolhapur chappals can help fuel the revival of this traditional unisex footwear. Celebrity fashion designer Bhawna Rao believes the moment will 'spark curiosity, draw investment, and invite younger generations to engage with heritage crafts in new ways'. Shirin Mann, founder of footwear label NEEDLEDUST — known for reinventing the traditional Indian 'jutti' — said Prada has brought 'massive recall value' to the Kolhapuri chappal. 'Until now, it hadn't been considered part of the 'cool' or aspirational footwear space in India's luxury market… I truly believe in the ripple effect of what Prada has done. 'While it may not be a direct collaboration, the global visibility can be powerful, boosting awareness, reviving demand, creating jobs, and most importantly, sparking a renewed appreciation for the craftsmanship of the artisans,' said Mann, adding that global reinterpretations are inevitable, but they 'should come with context, credit, and ideally, collaboration'. PTI MG AA MIN MIN MIN This report is auto-generated from PTI news service. ThePrint holds no responsibility for its content.
Straits Times
7 hours ago
- Business
- Straits Times
Sandal scandal: Prada credits new design's Indian legacy amid furore
Luxury fashion powerhouse Prada has acknowledged the ancient Indian roots of its new sandal design. PHOTO: AFP NEW DEHLI/MILAN - Luxury fashion powerhouse Prada has acknowledged the ancient Indian roots of its new sandal design after the debut of the open-toe footwear sparked a furore among Indian artisans and politicians thousands of miles from the catwalk in Italy. Images from Prada's fashion show in Milan last weekend showed models wearing leather sandals with a braided design that resembled handmade Kolhapuri slippers with designs dating back to the 12th century. A wave of criticism in the media and from lawmakers followed over the Italian brand's lack of public acknowledgement of the Indian sandal design, which is named after a city in the western state of Maharashtra. Mr Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada's owners, responded to the sandal scandal in a letter to a trade group on June 27 recognising their Indian heritage. 'We acknowledge that the sandals... are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage,' Mr Bertelli, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility, wrote in the letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, seen by Reuters. The sandals are at an early stage of design and it is not certain they will be commercialised, but Prada is open to a 'dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans' and will arrange follow-up meetings, he wrote. A Prada spokesperson issued a statement acknowledging the sandal's inspiration from India, adding the company has 'always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions'. Prada products are beyond the reach of most Indians. Its men's leather sandals retail for US$844 (S$1,077) and up, while the Kolhapuri slippers, sold in Indian shops and street markets, start at about US$12. India's luxury market is small but growing fast, with rising numbers of rich people buying Louis Vuitton bags, Lamborghini cars, luxury homes and watches. Conversely, Indian culture and crafts are increasingly finding their way into global brand designs. High-end jeweller Bulgari offers a US$16,000 Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women. Bertelli's homage to Indian design was sent in a response to a complaint from the head of the trade group that represents 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans, as the online uproar gathered momentum. 'From the dusty lanes of Kolhapur to the glitzy runways of Milan... will the world finally give credit where it's due?' India's DNA News posted on X. Mr Sambhaji Chhatrapati from the Kolhapur Royal family told Reuters by phone he was upset that craftsmen had not been acknowledged for the 'history and heritage of 150 years'. Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More, however, said images of the Prada sandal were bringing cheer to some artisans as they show their traditional product going global. 'They are happy that someone is recognising their work,' he said. REUTERS Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.
Asharq Al-Awsat
7 hours ago
- Business
- Asharq Al-Awsat
Sandal Scandal: Prada Credits New Design's Indian Legacy
Luxury fashion powerhouse Prada has acknowledged the ancient Indian roots of its new sandal design after the debut of the open-toe footwear sparked a furor among Indian artisans and politicians thousands of miles from the catwalk in Italy. Images from Prada's fashion show in Milan last weekend showed models wearing leather sandals with a braided design that resembled handmade Kolhapuri slippers with designs dating back to the 12th century. A wave of criticism in the media and from lawmakers followed over the Italian brand's lack of public acknowledgement of the Indian sandal design, which is named after a city in the western state of Maharashtra. Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada's owners, responded to the sandal scandal in a letter to a trade group on Friday recognizing their Indian heritage. "We acknowledge that the sandals... are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage," Bertelli, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility, wrote in the letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, seen by Reuters. The sandals are at an early stage of design and it is not certain they will be commercialized, but Prada is open to a "dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans" and will arrange follow-up meetings, he wrote. A Prada spokesperson issued a statement acknowledging the sandal's inspiration from India, adding the company has "always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions". Prada products are beyond the reach of most Indians. Its men's leather sandals retail for $844 and up, while the Kolhapuri slippers, sold in Indian shops and street markets, start at about $12. India's luxury market is small but growing fast, with rising numbers of rich people buying Louis Vuitton bags, Lamborghini cars, luxury homes and watches. Conversely, Indian culture and crafts are increasingly finding their way into global brand designs. High-end jeweler Bulgari offers a $16,000 Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women. Bertelli's homage to Indian design was sent in a response to a complaint from the head of the trade group that represents 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans, as the online uproar gathered momentum. "From the dusty lanes of Kolhapur to the glitzy runways of Milan... will the world finally give credit where it's due?" India's DNA News posted on X. Sambhaji Chhatrapati from the Kolhapur Royal family told Reuters by phone he was upset that craftsmen had not been acknowledged for the "history and heritage of 150 years." Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More, however, said images of the Prada sandal were bringing cheer to some artisans as they show their traditional product going global. "They are happy that someone is recognising their work," he said.
NDTV
7 hours ago
- Entertainment
- NDTV
Prada Acknowledges Being Inspired By Indian Kolhapuri Chappals Featured In 2026 Collection
Italian luxury couture label, Prada has been facing major backlash post featuring footwear that strongly looks like the traditional Indian Kolhapuri chappals in their latest Spring/Summer 2026 collection showcased at the Paris Men's Fashion Week 2025. Artisans from around India and particularly Maharashtra have raised their voices after footwear similar to the famous Kolhapuri chappals featured in Prada's show. They went onto allege a violation of geographical identification (GI) rights in this matter. What's more, BJP MP, Dhananjay Mahadik on Thursday, June 26. 2025 led a delegation of artisans who make the traditional Kolhapuri chappals to meet Maharashtra CM, Devendra Fadnavis. They presented a letter urging him to look into the violation and preserve the product which is a symbol of the state's cultural heritage. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Prada (@prada) The Italian fashion house finally acknowledged that the fetaured footwear pieces were isnpired by the Indian handcrafted pieces. According to news agency Press Trust Of India (PTI), "We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage." View this post on Instagram A post shared by Prada (@prada) Further in a letter penned to Lalit Gandhi, president of Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility expressed, "We deeply recognize the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship." Lorenzo Bertelli's letter is in response to one written by Gandhi after the backlash broke out over Prada's kolhapuri footwear fetaured in its latest fashion showcase in Paris. In the show notes, Prada had described the footwear as leather sandals with no reference to its Indian roots, that evoked outrage from many in India's fashion universe as well as the traditional artisans who make the Kolhapuri chappals in the western Maharashtrain region. In his letter to the brand Lalit Gandhi wrote, "I am writing to respectfully draw your attention to a matter concerning your recently unveiled Men's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, which was showcased on 23rd June 2025 in Milan." He further added, "It has come to public attention that the collection includes footwear designs that bear a close resemblance to Kolhapuri Chappals (Footwear) a traditional handcrafted leather sandal that has been awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019." He emphasised the roots and heritage of the Indian footwear pieces. "Kolhapuri Chappals represent centuries-old craftsmanship rooted in the cultural fabric of Maharashtra, India. These products are not only symbolic of regional identity, but they also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts." He also requested for due acknowledgement for the Kolhapuri chappals by Prada in this matter. "While we appreciate global fashion houses drawing inspiration from diverse cultures, we are concerned that this particular design appears to have been commercialized without due acknowledgment, credit, or collaboration with the artisan communities who have preserved this heritage through generations." Lalit Gandhi added how the iconic Indian footwear are symbol of Maharashtra's cultural identity and support livelihoods of local artisans. "We kindly urge Prada to acknowledge the inspiration behind the design publicly, explore possibilities for collaboration or fair compensation that could benefit the artisan communities involved and consider supporting ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights." Lastly he called out for ethical upholding of standards in global fashion by Prada. "Such a gesture would not only uphold ethical standards in global fashion, but also foster a meaningful exchange between heritage craftsmanship and contemporary design. We trust that a brand of Prada's stature and influence will take this concern in the right spirit and initiate a thoughtful response." In his response, Lorezo Bertelli wrote, "Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design. development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialized." He further added, "We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft." Lorenzo Bertelli closed his letter to Lalit Gandhi with these words. "Prada strives to pay homage and recognize the value of such specialized craftspeople that represent an unrivalled standard of excellence and heritage. We would welcome the opportunity for further discussion and will set a follow up with the relevant Prada teams."
News18
8 hours ago
- Business
- News18
Prada Opens Up On Row Over 'Kolhapuri Chappals', Admits Indian Footwear's Inspiration
Last Updated: The Italian house said that sandals featured in the fashion show are still at the design stage and none of the pieces worn by models on the ramp are confirmed to be commercialised. After triggering a massive controversy and facing social media backlash over featuring slippers similar to Maharashtra's Kolhapuri chappals, Italian luxury fashion brand Prada has now acknowledged that its collection was inspired by Indian handmade footwear. The leather slipper with open toes presented by Prada showed striking similarities to the heritage leather footwear that artisans have crafted for generations in Maharashtra and Karnataka. 'We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship," Lorenzo Bertelli, a representative from Prada said in a reply to Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA). The Italian house, however, said that sandals featured in the fashion show are still at the design stage and none of the pieces worn by models on the ramp are confirmed to be commercialised. 'Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialised," Bertelli added in its response. He further said that Prada is committed to responsible design and respecting traditional Indian crafts. The brand wishes to engage with local Indian artisans and ensure they get proper credit for their work. 'We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft," he said in his reply. The response came after MACCIA president Lalit Gandhi objected to Prada's June 23 Milan show, where sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals were labeled simply as 'leather sandals," with no mention of Indian influence. Gandhi, who raised the concern with the foreign brand after seeing the visuals, in the interest of the local artisans and the industry, had appreciated cultural exchange in fashion but criticised Prada for not crediting the original makers or working with local artisans. In a letter to Prada, Gandhi had urged the fashion house to publicly acknowledge the inspiration and also sought exploration collaborations and fair compensation to the artisans and also an adherence to ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights. 'The Kolhapuri chappal is very distinct and we want our footwear to go to newer markets. But it has to get the rightful recognition," Gandhi told news agency PTI on Saturday. MACCIA also reminded Prada about the traditional handcrafted leather sandal being awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019. Prada's Response To Maharashtra Government In his reply, Bertelli clarified that the designs are still in the early stages and have not yet been approved for production. Bertelli added, 'We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities." What's The Controversy? In its Spring-Summer 2026 collection, the brand described the footwear as 'leather sandals", with no reference to an Indian connection, evoking outrage from many in India's fashion community as well as traditional makers of Kolhapuri chappals in western Maharashtra. 'Kolhapuri Chappals represent centuries-old craftsmanship rooted in the cultural fabric of Maharashtra, India. These products are not only symbolic of regional identity, but they also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts," Gandhi's letter said. The controversy drew further attention after BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik led a group of Kolhapuri chappal artisans to meet Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis. They submitted a letter demanding action to protect the footwear's GI rights and cultural importance. According to the financial daily's report, the Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM), which shares geographical indication (GI) certification for Kolhapuri chappals with Karnataka's LIDKAR, is considering legal measures. Although registered proprietors (LIDCOM and LIDKAR) and authorised users have legal rights to initiate proceedings within India's borders, GI marks currently lack international legal safeguards. (With inputs from PTI) About the Author Shobhit Gupta Shobhit Gupta is a sub-editor at and covers India and International news. He is interested in day to day political affairs in India and geopolitics. He earned his BA Journalism (Hons) degree from More Get breaking news, in-depth analysis, and expert perspectives on everything from politics to crime and society. Stay informed with the latest India news only on News18. Download the News18 App to stay updated! First Published: June 28, 2025, 13:32 IST
